Jump to content

Recommended Posts

How can I get the starter out. Is there another way then taking it apart.

thanks

Craig

The best way to approch any mechanical repairs is to purchase a good, full repair manual before doing anything. In there it will give the proper way to fix or replace any component, as well as give schematics, vaccume line routing, and things such as removing and replacing a starter. There are many ways to try and do this job, but doing it the correct way is always best, and usually the manual will have all the concerns and warnings about the job at hand. 25 to 40 bucks is a small price to pay for all the proper and correct information you will ever need to do repairs on your drivetrain. Good luck and peace!

http://www.repairmanual.com/category/1986-toyota-sr5-pick-up/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a video of replacing a starter. appears some shroding was removed as well as the wheel and still not that easy but doable. also found on the how to site a writen discription to do the job. i did a search on google "toyota 22re starter removal" looks like if you have plenty of time and not rush the job will get done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a good manual is great no doubt. you might find a selection at your library to help decide which one you like best before buying. if you plan on doing these types of things yourself you will need a good manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 years later...
On 6/7/2012 at 2:01 PM, linda s said:

My Chiltons says you have to disconnect the throtle rod to get access to it if you have a automatic tranny.

Linda S

Im doing this job rn on the same rig. My Haines doesn't mention this. Thanks again linda

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Too weird. I haven't seen my Chiltons in years but just pulled it out of storage a couple of days ago. It says on some models with automatic transmission you may have to disconnect the throttle rod. Don't know if it applies to us but this book only covers pickups, Land cruisers and 4 runners. You'll know if it does when you get there and something is in the way

Linda S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, turns out the best way is to drain the coolant and remove the trans coolant lines running the  across the bottom. From there the starter can be dropped down through the bottom. Top won't work without taking the starter and solenoid apart, and more lines would have to be removed to pull it out the wheel well. Looks like I'll be doing a coolant flush before I install a new starter. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK now that you made me get my hands all greasy I get it. I see where they could  be a problem. I'm still convinced I could wrangle it out of there some other way but I would have to remove my starter to prove it. Not going there. Carry on

Linda S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, linda s said:

OK now that you made me get my hands all greasy I get it. I see where they could  be a problem. I'm still convinced I could wrangle it out of there some other way but I would have to remove my starter to prove it. Not going there. Carry on

Linda S

I think it could be worked out if the solenoid and starter are separated, as I had to do to get it out the top-front.  Otherwise I'd have to bend the transmission coolant lines, which I'm terrified of pinching or breaking. I'll upload a pic tomorrow. Don't know why I didn't think of that earlier

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two things the trans uses a cable not a throttle rod and it's not in the way. The trans cooler lines have no "coolant" in them just ATF. It has been a long time since I have done one but I don't remember them being a major job. The starters had a contact disk in them and with age were problematic so it was pretty common job to have to remove the starter to deal with the contacts pretty sure I just pushed the lines out of the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Maineah said:

Two things the trans uses a cable not a throttle rod and it's not in the way. The trans cooler lines have no "coolant" in them just ATF. It has been a long time since I have done one but I don't remember them being a major job. The starters had a contact disk in them and with age were problematic so it was pretty common job to have to remove the starter to deal with the contacts pretty sure I just pushed the lines out of the way.

Super helpful knowing there's nothing in those lines. Is it feasible to carefully bend them? 

 

The starter I pulled appears to be an original. Ordered a $60 replacement off Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0962S14Z1/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1HUOX44GJ1KQ3&psc=1

I'll keep y'all's posted how it works and fits. Thinking about rebuilding the original as a back up, maybe?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, linda s said:

Amazon doesn't bring that starter up for me and it's not the same part number as Toyota uses. The internet is telling me that's the starter for a Cressida. Here's the Toyota part

28100-35020 - Toyota Parts Deal

or this

28100-34080 - Toyota Parts Deal

First one is slightly more powerful

Linda S

Here's their description for compatibility:

"Compatible with
Denso 028000-5900, 028000-5901, 028000-7560, 128000-1240, 128000-1241, Toyota 28100-34060, 28100-34080, 28100-34080-84, 28100-35030, 28100-35030-84, Valeo 458621"

 

The starter I pulled off had a Toyota sticker with the numbers 028000-7560 & 28100-34080

 

I guess we'll see...
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 22RE starter was the same as numerous other applications. They were really good starters the only thing I ever found wrong with them was the solenoid contact disk it's behind the metal plate with the Philips screws. If it just clicks and nothing happens that's probably all that's wrong with it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've found some you can flip the disc over and use the other side.  twice the staying power

Link to comment
Share on other sites

p.s. if tapping it with a hammer makes it work, the brushed are worn out. also an easy fix. never try this on your new car with a pm starter. it will crack the magnets cutting their power in half

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Maineah said:

If it just clicks and nothing happens that's probably all that's wrong with it. 

This is the issue I've been dealing with. It'll occasionally start, but it's becoming fewer and Farer between.

 

Can I just replace the disc ur talking about, rather than the whole starter/solenoid?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, extech said:

i've found some you can flip the disc over and use the other side.  twice the staying power

I'll have to give this a shot after I clear space to make the starter more accessible for taking on and off. Hell, I'll have an extra starter now, so I'll have some extra parts to play with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

used to be able to get all the parts individualy. havent done this stuff for a while

Link to comment
Share on other sites

most often i have found cleanup the disc end of the solened plunger and those 2 copper contacts will be pitted or even worn down replace those most often its fixed . the old dead key syndrome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you have an older 1970s 20r you could get rid of that gear starter . and put on a convential larger  simpal strait starter . the 20r used eather starter . both where interchangeable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, 5Toyota said:

if you have an older 1970s 20r you could get rid of that gear starter . and put on a convential larger  simpal strait starter . the 20r used eather starter . both where interchangeable.

Nope. You need the gear reduction starter. The larger diameter (cheaper) starter will not flush up to the block. This creates a gap between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Been there-done that. 1978 20R.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

all i can say is it worked for 14 years on my 1977 20 r corona wagen  that was a w50 5 speed  never had a problem . 1978 motor  home also l43 4 speed. a re you talking auto trans . used bosh reman. i also had the factuery toyota green cover book showed both. asked the parts guy he said no problem  and i never had any. last for way over 100.000 miles no problem.

Edited by 5Toyota
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, 5Toyota said:

most often i have found cleanup the disc end of the solened plunger and those 2 copper contacts will be pitted or even worn down replace those most often its fixed . the old dead key syndrome.

Good to know! Thanks.

 

I have an 86 22re btw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, 5Toyota said:

all i can say is it worked for 14 years on my 1977 20 r corona wagen  that was a w50 5 speed  never had a problem . 1978 motor  home also l43 4 speed. a re you talking auto trans . used bosh reman. i also had the factuery toyota green cover book showed both. asked the parts guy he said no problem  and i never had any. last for way over 100.000 miles no problem.

We’ll agree to disagree. Never worked on a corona. My 1978 20R with L43 will only take the gear reduction starter (which is what Toyota calls for).

Hard to compare apples to oranges. Worst case you’ll have to return the cheaper starter and install the correct one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was in past have the 1987 and 88 now dolphon and 4WDXTRA cab only choice there gear starter . have a reman napa gear starter on the truck . the other one was to burned out to repair. tes i agree the old 4 speed and the 5 speed are 2 different tranies.for shure .i still miss that wagon put way over 200.000 miles on it . my young driver so n rolled it over one night whith us in it . seat belts saved us.

Edited by 5Toyota
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are the lines that are in the way,held in place by a bracket. I'll try undoing the bracket and moving the lines aside to see if the whole starter can fit through that gap. I'll also disconnect the smaller circled wire as well.

 

To be continued...

 

 

IMG_20210724_163542.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, extech said:

i've found some you can flip the disc over and use the other side.  twice the staying power

From a burn one yes. You also have to deal with the burnt studs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the new starter in and it started right up!  I ended up almost taking out those trans lines, but decided to have another look. From the top, on the left side of the engine block and fuel injection, the previous owner had installed another horn system and a cruise control system. Neither worked but took up a considerable amount of space. I tore all that stuff out, and unbolted some of the a/c hose clamps. I was able to drop the starter in from there.  Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/24/2021 at 4:57 PM, Maineah said:

From a burn one yes. You also have to deal with the burnt studs.

I'll be rebuilding the old original starter I pulled out. The new starter I got was cheap, so at least I can have backup that I know isnt worthless

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...