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I have an 81 Huntsman with a Dometic RM 360 electric/LP fridge. I know it's around $400 for a new cooling unit and $700 plus for a new fridge. I dont really want to spend that that kind of money on fixing it. Has anyone replaced their stock fridge with a regular electric mini fridge? I figure a refrigerator that works on electric is better than no fridge at all. The dimensions of the stock one are 29 3/4 inches tall, 20 1/2 inches wide and 21 3/8 inches deep. I found an igloo 3.2 cubic foot mini fridge that I think would fit for $120. Or if you happen to know of a junk or for parts RV with something similar let me know. Thanks.

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Yes, there are those who have replaced the RV fridge with a 'Dorm Fridge'. Not the greatest solution if you're planning to Boondock a lot, but ...

Am I correct in guessing you're located in Wisconsin? I'm thinking packaging and safely shipping a cheap, used unit would be a deal breaker!

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I'm in the same boat as you! I wish i paid better attention as others have posted before. Seems running a dorm fridge of inverter fries the fridge. I was looking at these on ebay. Rather small but heck at $120 you could get a couple. Wonder if they work well?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Avanti-SHP1702-Cube-Superconductor-Refrigerator-/170631568679?pt=Refrigerators&hash=item27ba6f1d27#ht_500wt_1043

I have an 81 Huntsman with a Dometic RM 360 electric/LP fridge. I know it's around $400 for a new cooling unit and $700 plus for a new fridge. I dont really want to spend that that kind of money on fixing it. Has anyone replaced their stock fridge with a regular electric mini fridge? I figure a refrigerator that works on electric is better than no fridge at all. The dimensions of the stock one are 29 3/4 inches tall, 20 1/2 inches wide and 21 3/8 inches deep. I found an igloo 3.2 cubic foot mini fridge that I think would fit for $120. Or if you happen to know of a junk or for parts RV with something similar let me know. Thanks.

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I'm in the same boat: Broken Dometic in a 1991 Itasca Spirit. It must be something going around.....

But here's what I'm thinking: An Ice box!

First off, I'm poor right now. Secondly, we don't go on extended camping trips - just weekend jaunts to regional KOA's and what not. Lastly, our fridge carries wine, steaks, eggs, Juice and salad fixings - all of which are fairly forgiving, temperature-wise.

Prior to becoming an Toyota owner, we had a 1950's-era trailer, and it had an ice box, and we never had a problem. But those old units were workhorses (and probably asbestos and lead-lined or something dreadful like that) Has anyone had any experience with the new ice boxes?

Thanks!

dan

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I had a 79 coleman pop up tent trailer that had a dandy portable ice box. It had a compartment in the top for a block of ice. On the bottom of the ice compartment was a spigit that you could use to get the ice water out with. Kept groceries cold a long time. :D

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I seen a small fridge at the Pilot truck stop - runs on 110Vac or 12 Vdc. about the size of a small dorm frig - I think it was about $130

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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  • 2 months later...

If you are mechanical try the flip method on on a crystalled dometic; pull it flip it ( inside rv) and run it for half hour upside down; flip it and put back. An old trik that sometimes melts the tube crystals. :-)

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Doues anyone no anthing about those 12volt thermo eletric coolers colman makes some i never heard how good they work the run 90 to 100 dollorsor so may be on coloman website i just bit the bullet 600 for brand new norcold 323 smallest model they have only one will fit my 1978 minimax old instamatic was leaking amonia out it went

I had one they work but are power hogs and slow. I used to run mine during the day and unplug it at night and could get 2 days max out of the battery before it was dead if i left it on 1 day.

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thank you i thought about those in the end i spent 650 dollors for 3 way norcold glad to know they are not that good i boondock a lot

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  • 5 months later...

These thermoelectric cooling fridge does not chill below like 45 degree; it takes a very long time to "cool", but "cold" and no freezer of course. I tried it one with a free one from a neighbor, did not work for me at all.

I'm in the same boat as you! I wish i paid better attention as others have posted before. Seems running a dorm fridge of inverter fries the fridge. I was looking at these on ebay. Rather small but heck at $120 you could get a couple. Wonder if they work well?

http://cgi.ebay.com/...7#ht_500wt_1043

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If you need cold out in the woods nothing beats a gas fridge. As cheap as dorm fridges are my guess is they are not real well insolated and probably run a lot wonder if any one has run one and checked how long the battery will last with out a recharge.

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i changed my dead one out for a dorm type. have only used it once, two nights three days. we put frozen freezer bags in it when we left, kept things cool. we used a generator for tv/dvd and turned on the frig while watching tv, it refroze the bags and continued to keep things cool the whole trip. boon docking with a generator makes it doable with dorm frig. the small frig's use very little ac power so small generator would work ok. i have a honda 2000 because i also have a window air conditioner to run. it kept things cool for about 8 hours before we ran the generator.

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Really nothing beats a gas fridge. I would keep and eye out on craigslist for people parting out campers. Gosh the Baja guy on this site just gave away a fridge almost just like yours but in California. I see them often on craigslist. If there are any pick and pull type wrecking yards near you they sometimes have old RV's that might have fridges. Also your profile says WI and MO. If you ever go anywhere near Carthage MO, the biggest rv salvage yard in the country is there.

LS

I have an 81 Huntsman with a Dometic RM 360 electric/LP fridge. I know it's around $400 for a new cooling unit and $700 plus for a new fridge. I dont really want to spend that that kind of money on fixing it. Has anyone replaced their stock fridge with a regular electric mini fridge? I figure a refrigerator that works on electric is better than no fridge at all. The dimensions of the stock one are 29 3/4 inches tall, 20 1/2 inches wide and 21 3/8 inches deep. I found an igloo 3.2 cubic foot mini fridge that I think would fit for $120. Or if you happen to know of a junk or for parts RV with something similar let me know. Thanks.

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We just finished a three week trip around the US. We ran the frig on propane the whole trip - it did blow out a couple times due to high winds. Nothing beats that little propane frig :-)

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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  • 4 months later...

I'm in the same boat: Broken Dometic in a 1991 Itasca Spirit. It must be something going around.....

But here's what I'm thinking: An Ice box!

First off, I'm poor right now. Secondly, we don't go on extended camping trips - just weekend jaunts to regional KOA's and what not. Lastly, our fridge carries wine, steaks, eggs, Juice and salad fixings - all of which are fairly forgiving, temperature-wise.

Prior to becoming an Toyota owner, we had a 1950's-era trailer, and it had an ice box, and we never had a problem. But those old units were workhorses (and probably asbestos and lead-lined or something dreadful like that) Has anyone had any experience with the new ice boxes?

Thanks!

dan

Hi Dan, My propane was disconnected when went to IN rally last year & elec on my dometic not working, so I just put big cake pan in bottom of fridge with couple frozen gallon jugs of water & several frozen small bottles, had meat, cheeses, drinks in it & it stayed perfectly cold for 4-5 days, kept fridge themometer in it to be sure, didn't have too add any bagged ice until last 2 days on way home, just had to dump cake pan a few times as bagged ice started to melt, used melting jugs for cold drinking water. Thats what I'll continue to do while driving until get mine fixed. For longer than weekend trips I've got a small lightweight dorm fridge I'll take along to plug in. TerrieO

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  • 5 months later...

Can a dorm fridge run while the RV is in motion? I am not sure if that compressor is designed to be rock-n-roll...if you know what I mean. An beeffy inverter can run the dorm fridge but life span may be short

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i have a dorm type, 4.3 amps at 120volts so would need about 500 watts at 12 volts, or about 45 amps at 12 volts. not that big of an inverter would work. i wouldn't think going down a paved road would not create problems for the frig, maybe dirt roads full of pot holes might be hard on it, not really sure. the biggest problem i see is that the coach battery would be drained fairly quickly without an upgraded altenator that could handle the amp draw. as i understand the stock altenators we have are around the 50 amp output which with running everything else wouldn't be enough to maintain the coach battery and run the frig, ie dead coach battery after a day on the road. if i were needing the frig on long trips, traveling everyday and wanted the frig to take care of itself i would save up for a three way. we use ours to go somewhere within a half day and stay, using the generator or shore power when we arrive so we just put in a couple of gallons of frozen water to keep things cool until we arrive. we do hope to go on a fairly long three days going and coming trip this next spring, we'll either get ice to add to the frig as needed or use a seperate ice box. we have had two frozen gallon containers keep it cool for two days and didn't totally thaw out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have an 81 Huntsman with a Dometic RM 360 electric/LP fridge. I know it's around $400 for a new cooling unit and $700 plus for a new fridge. I dont really want to spend that that kind of money on fixing it. Has anyone replaced their stock fridge with a regular electric mini fridge? I figure a refrigerator that works on electric is better than no fridge at all. The dimensions of the stock one are 29 3/4 inches tall, 20 1/2 inches wide and 21 3/8 inches deep. I found an igloo 3.2 cubic foot mini fridge that I think would fit for $120. Or if you happen to know of a junk or for parts RV with something similar let me know. Thanks.

I've repaced the the three-way refridgerators in two of my RVs with cheap AC "dorm" type units. I love the change and would never go back to a three-way. Two RV batteries can run an AC fridge through an inverter for 4 days with no recharge. One battery can run it for 2 days with no recharge.

No more fussing around changing from DC input to propane (and getting it lit), etc. A cheap AC fridge with a little added insulation works extremely well. Mine is hooked to an AIMs 1500 watt modified-wave inverter. No to be clear - we don't use our RV for weeks at a time parked in one spot. If we did -I'd hook up a few solar panels. For now if I had to - I just start the engine every day or so and let it charge my RV batteries back up. We usually camp at night and hit the road the next day. Two RV batteries have been more then enough to run our fridge, heat, 32" TV and DVD player, fans, water pump, etc. Batteries have never gotten close to low.

If I ever have a failure when away - I can stop at any Walmart or Home Depot and buy a new replacement for less then $75.

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Can a dorm fridge run while the RV is in motion? I am not sure if that compressor is designed to be rock-n-roll...if you know what I mean. An beeffy inverter can run the dorm fridge but life span may be short

I've been doing it for years with NO problems. Any fridge that uses a compressor does fine with bouncing around and works much better when not level as compared to a three-way fridge. Note that two of my RVs are 4WD and we camp off road a lot and drive on very rough terrain.

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i have a dorm type, 4.3 amps at 120volts so would need about 500 watts at 12 volts, or about 45 amps at 12 volts. not that big of an inverter would work. i wouldn't think going down a paved road would not create problems for the frig, maybe dirt roads full of pot holes might be hard on it, not really sure. the biggest problem i see is that the coach battery would be drained fairly quickly without an upgraded altenator that could handle the amp draw. as i understand the stock altenators we have are around the 50 amp output which with running everything else wouldn't be enough to maintain the coach battery and run the frig, ie dead coach battery after a day on the road. if i were needing the frig on long trips, traveling everyday and wanted the frig to take care of itself i would save up for a three way. we use ours to go somewhere within a half day and stay, using the generator or shore power when we arrive so we just put in a couple of gallons of frozen water to keep things cool until we arrive. we do hope to go on a fairly long three days going and coming trip this next spring, we'll either get ice to add to the frig as needed or use a seperate ice box. we have had two frozen gallon containers keep it cool for two days and didn't totally thaw out.

A decent sized AC fridge will spike at a 6 amp draw and then come down to 3-4 amps. If well insulated it rarely comes on. A typical 50 amp alternator would have no issues suppling the power even at night when all the headlights are on. It's a non-issue. I have much more of a problem with a three-way fridge that drew 8 amps almost constantly when in DC electric mode. Very inefficient as compared to a cheap AC dorm-type fridge. The problem can really show up at night with headlights on and at a stop light with the engine idling. A 40-50 amp alternator typically puts out 25-30 amps at engine idle speed. A three-way drawing 8 amps only leaves around 20 amps for all else. My Dodge Class A motorhome when driven at night with the three-way fridge on would have the charge-light come on at every stop sign or red light. No problem when I switched to an AC fridge and a 1500 watt inverter.

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at night... in michigan... in Nov... heater blower on... 1 group 27 battery... nope. Fail. (in 5 day boondock). I think it would melt the inverter electronics anyway; this hunting season was very warm during day (50s) and freezing at night. but for cruising and camping at camp sites yeah that would work.

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A decent sized AC fridge will spike at a 6 amp draw and then come down to 3-4 amps.

I mis-stated a few things so let me try to do better. Amps without voltage specs are meaningless. I have several AC dorm-type refrigerators I use. Some spike at 6 amps /120 VAC at start-up and run on 3.8 amps/120VAC and some others spike at 5 amps/120VAC and run at 2.7 amps/120VAC. When run through a typical 90-95% efficient inverter - that winds up drawing up to 80 amps for a second or two with 12-13 volts DC and then trimming down to as low as 36 amps at 12-13 volts DC. But -the AC fridge rarely comes on if well insulated. I tested one hooked though a 1500 watt inverter and a single 12 volt type 27 battery. The one Walmart sells as "deep cycle." It ran the AC fridge for 4 days before voltage got too low to run it anymore. That was in a 75 F degree environment and without added insulation. That battery is rated at 115 amp-hours. That means it is designed to supply one amp all the time for 115 hours. Since it lasted 96 hours running that AC refrigerator - it drew the equivalent of 1.2 amps per hour. Not very much. But if you have a small alternator that can only charge 30 amps at engine idle- you might notice a discharge if you come to a red light or stop sign and the refrigerator happens to come on. The last three-way fridge I pulled drew a steady 7 amps all the time when run on the DC mode. Much more then the AC fridge. When installed in an RV, I add 1" insulation board around the fridge. Make it come on even less. Note also that I'm not using the smallest dorm fridges. Both of mine measure 26.5" tall by 19" wide. All mine came from yard sales for $25 each and I've yet to one go bad. We do some off-roading since two of my RVs are 4WD.

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at night... in michigan... in Nov... heater blower on... 1 group 27 battery... nope. Fail. (in 5 day boondock). I think it would melt the inverter electronics anyway; this hunting season was very warm during day (50s) and freezing at night. but for cruising and camping at camp sites yeah that would work.

Maybe. That being said I would not try to do it with just one "medium-cycle type 27 battery. I use twice that. I also don't know which heater blowers you are referring to. The truck blower can draw around 7 amps. The propane heater blower and ignitor can draw a total of 6-14 amps.

Note also that gets just as cold where I live as it does in northern Michigan. I know since live there at times. If you drive at night in the cold - and let's say your headlights are drawing 15 amps, and your heater blower 6 amps. That is a 21 amp demand. When the truck is cruising down the road with the 45 amp alternator it has 24 amp surplus, more or less. An AC fridge will draw on-average around 1.2 amps per hour if well insulated. So the alternator alone can supply the fridge and the battery size is not an issue until you park - or get stuck in a traffic jam for an hour or so.

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I wish I could somehow remove my oven without removing the stop top burners... I wonder if anyone has ever done that. Even though I got my oven working again; its next to useless as its under heated and has no true broil capability. I would do better to have more space and less weight without it or even a microwave

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Now i am convinced just to go with a dorm fridge. Already have a little one I can use. Could not afford to replace the broken fridge that came with my rig so that was not going to happen anyway. Besides I want that space for putting in a little woodstove that will be of a lot more use in the Pacific Northwest winters. If I get rid of the fridge and the propane furnace then I won't need those huge drafty, water leak prone vents on the side of my rig.

The first RV I used an AC fridge in is my 1986 K5 diesel Blazer Chalet (Chinook). The OEM Delco 12SI alternator was rated 58 amps max. Puts out 30 amps at engine idle. Using the AC fridge with a dedicated 1500 watt inverter never bothered anythng a bit. Charging system worked fine. I later swapped in a 140 amp alternator so I can run a microwave oven better. That will put out 55 amps at engine idle speed. I strongly recommend you put 1" foam insulation around the AC fridge. They come with very thin insulation.

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Gas fridge no power use, no inverter no big battery bank no big alternator no rewiring if mine quit tomorrow I would buy another one used or new they last decades.

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You mean like this http://www.ebay.com/...a15c8b4&vxp=mtr

I wish I could somehow remove my oven without removing the stop top burners... I wonder if anyone has ever done that. Even though I got my oven working again; its next to useless as its under heated and has no true broil capability. I would do better to have more space and less weight without it or even a microwave

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Gas fridge no power use, no inverter no big battery bank no big alternator no rewiring if mine quit tomorrow I would buy another one used or new they last decades.

To each his own. Gas fridge (three way) certainly has power use - via propane gas or electricity. Propane fridge needs to be fairly level or barely works. Gas fridge is very inefficient when used in DC electric mode when it uses battery power to make heat . . to make cold. Gas fridge used in gas mode and travelling down the highway will sometimes go off due to a wind/suction at the chimney and a flame-out.

Electric fridge that uses a compressor does not care how cockeyed the ground is when you park. Also uses less dollars in power via electricity. Yes you need to keep gasoline (or diesel) in the fuel tank so the engine can run so the alternator can make power - but seems if you want to be mobil you need fuel in that tank anyway.

Also a gas fired refrigerator is less efficient then a compressor refrigerator. It uses more BTUs of energy to make the same cold temps. On top of that. propane in most parts of the country is much more expensive then gasoline or diesel

Here in New York right now - $1 buys . . . 22,480 BTUs of energy with propane, 30,426 BTUs of energy with gasoline, and 30,588 BTUs of energy with diesel fuel.

Like I said, to each his own. I love having a electric fridge and would never consider going back to propane in an RV.

Same goes for my house in the Adirondacks woods. All solar electric, off grid. For years we had a 5 cubic foot propane fridge. Finally got rid of it and went to a Sundanzer 5 cubic foot 12 volt DC fridge. The difference is amazing. The DC fridge is MUCH cheaper to run. Actually, it costs us nothing to run since we have solar panels. Before I had the place all built and the permanent solar array installed, I ran that 5 cubic foot fridge on a single 120 wat solar panel and one 225 AH battery. Never got close to run down ever and we don't get much sun around here.

Sundanzer 5.8 cubic foot 12 volt DC fridge.

Uses 100 watt-hours on a 70 F degree day. 4.16 watts per hour, i.e. 1/3 amp avg per hour. Uses 240 watt-hours on a 90 F degree day. 8/10 of an amp per hour.

Servel 6 cubic foot propane fridge at 77 degrees F uses 1.1 pounds of propane a day

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Gas fridge no power use, no inverter no big battery bank no big alternator no rewiring if mine quit tomorrow I would buy another one used or new they last decades.

Me too love the propane fridge.

Linda S

I don't know about a serval fridge but I have left my fridge on for a month and still had propane left. 4 cubic foot fridge and 8 gallon propane tank but you really only get to put 6 gallons into it.

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Me too love the propane fridge.

Linda S

I don't know about a serval fridge but I have left my fridge on for a month and still had propane left. 4 cubic foot fridge and 8 gallon propane tank but you really only get to put 6 gallons into it.

That would cost around $25 per month where I live or camp.

Servel is a brand that is sold by Dometic. So many companies have changed hands it's not easy to track who makes or sells what. Dometic was bought out years ago by a huge gas drilling company - EQT. Same company that owns Bayer USA, Fedex Ground, Westinghouse, Glaxo-Smith-Kline USA, Duo-therm, etc. As I understand it - the old Dometic refrigerators were built under Electrolux of Sweden as the parent company. Those propane refrigerators were reported to be 30% less efficient then the new ones being sold today as Dometic Servels.

I have no doubt that many people have good reasons for preferring propane. To the converse, I have many reasons NOT to prefer it. Propane is always much more expensive then gasoline, diesel, or kerosene in the north-east. Propane refrigerators work lousy on uneven ground. Propane refrigerators often have their flames blow out during high-speed travel. By law - in many states you must shut off the gas flame whenever at a gas station to refuel. If you use a propane refrigerator in electric mode - it is EXTREMELY inefficent.

We used a kerosene refrigerator for years and also used a large propane unit for awhile. That was in a stationary setup - not a camper.

Most of our RV use is stop-and-go. We only camp at night and maybe half a day somewhere and then drive on. All the camp-sites we use are rural and rarely have any level spots. So using a propane refrigerator is sometimes arduous. If a person in the northeast uses 20 or 30 lb. propane tanks - and gets them refilled - the actual price per gallon is often over $5. I buy propane in bulk 900 gallons at a time and the last fill was $3.75 per gallon.

I'm using a cheap AC refrigerator with extra insulation and a 1500 watt inverter. Better yet would be a true 12 volt DC refrigerator but like anything for an RV - they are very expensive. I can find AC refrigerators ad nauseum for $20 each at yard sales and they are often near new.

The newest 8 cubic foot Dometic/Servel: Uses ¼ gallon propane per day when temp is 77 F. Overall dimensions are 63-1/2" high, 23" wide, 26-1/2 " deep. Price new is $1400

The older "Electrolux" Dometics the same size were rated to use 1/3 gallon of propane per day at 77 F.

New 8 cubic foot Dometic Servel –model 400 measures 63.5” tall by 23” wide by 26.5” deep. On propane it uses 1.1 lbs. a day at 77 F. In electric mode it uses 4000 watt-hours a day (350 amp hours at 12 volts DC). If run on kerosene or diesel fuel it uses a ¼ gallon per day at 77 F. Price is $1400 for the propane model and $2000 for the kerosene model. Around here if not buying propane in large quantiies - that would be around $33 per month using propane and $32 per month using kerosene.

I could claim that my 5.8 cubic foot Sundanzer DC fridge costs nothing to run -but I DID have to buy the solar panels and battery bank. The panels will last me a lifetime but the batteries will need replacement every 7-10 years. But I guess everything costs money over time. I'd have the batteries and solar panels regardless of what refrigerator being used. They were not installed just for food cooling.

If I lived somewhere out west where propane is much cheaper - and if I camped a lot on level ground and did not drive the RV a lot -I might feel a little different about propane cooling.

When I was a kid, most people in my area - in their houses had refrigerators that ran on natural gas. Today natural gas is still the cheapest fuel - but not available to many people and I assume not available to any RVers. I cannot get it at any of my houses, much less for RVs.

Sundanzer 5.8 cubic foot runs on AC/DC only. Has a compressor so does not need to be level. Uses 100 watt-hours (8.3 amp hours) per day at 70F. 37"W x 26"D x 35"H. Cost $1000 new. Will run 27 hours on one deep-cycle 225 AH battery but that is not good for the battery. For longevity the time should be half of that or the battery size doubled.

Sundanzer 8 cubic foot runs on AC/DC only. Uses 140 watt hours (11.5 amp hours) per day at 70 F. New - $1200. Will run 19.5 hours on one deep-cycle 225 AH battery, but again that is not good for the battery. For longevity the time should be half of that or the battery size doubled.

Novacool 12-24 volt DC compressor type smaller refrigerators for RVs. 4.3 cubic feet.

R4500 cutout is 28.75 high x 20.25 wide and 22 inch outside depth. Uses 480 watt-hours per day at 70F. If 2” foam is installed around it, it uses 240 watt-hours (20 amp-hours) a day at 70F. New - $920. Will run 11 hours on one deep-cycle 225 AH battery (not a good for the battery though).

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Na I'll keep my propane and not worry about rainy days and dead batteries. Propane around here is running less then regular gas right now. It costs me about $30 to fill the tank that lasts all season May to Nov.

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Na I'll keep my propane and not worry about rainy days and dead batteries. Propane around here is running less then regular gas right now. It costs me about $30 to fill the tank that lasts all season May to Nov.

What are you paying for propane? I was in Maine last month (Demariscotta) and had a 30 lb. propane tank filled and it was $4.50 per gallon. I have no idea what bulk prices are there.

Regulator gasoline here in NY is $3.75. For propane to be cheaper it would have to be priced at less then $2.73 per gallon since a gallon of propane is only equal to 7/10ths a gallon of gasoline.

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Regular here is 2.99 a gallon and propane is running about 2.25 a gallon

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