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I don't know about this stuff, but it be worth going to rv.net and do a search to get feedback. I remember a while back hearing about RVers using that black stuff (and then painting it white of course) that they spray on the interior back of pickup trucks, only having it sprayed on their roof. Many folks raved about it. Cheap too.

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Back in 2003 I applied Liquid Roof to a fifth wheel with 2 sliders. It was a 1996 AUTOMATE 32'. It took 4 hours to apply, after an hour of prep (scrubbing) on the previous day.

I purchased the Liquid Roof product from an online RV Parts dealer in Oregon. Came in gallon cans. Add a catalyst and stir (stirrer on an electric drill), then apply as directed. Goes on like thick paint. Seems like you have about 1 or 2 hours to get it on before it sets. If you refrigerate it, the curing stops, therefore you can do some today and some tomorrow. I believe there was an online video at the time that showed how it works. You might look on YouTube.

Seemed to work fine.

I applied it over a leaking EDPM rubber roof.

I wouldn't have thought of applying it over an aluminum roof, but It would do the job, in my opinion. If I recall, you don't even have to remove the old goop over the screws on the roof penetrations... just paint over them.

Fred3

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I used some on my rusty (with holes in it) galvanized chimney cap on our house. That was about 2 years ago. Last time I looked it was doing just fine. It plugged the holes and stopped the leaks. I just sorta wire brushed the thing a little and it stuck on very well.

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Back in 2003 I applied Liquid Roof to a fifth wheel with 2 sliders. It was a 1996 AUTOMATE 32'. It took 4 hours to apply, after an hour of prep (scrubbing) on the previous day.

I purchased the Liquid Roof product from an online RV Parts dealer in Oregon. Came in gallon cans. Add a catalyst and stir (stirrer on an electric drill), then apply as directed. Goes on like thick paint. Seems like you have about 1 or 2 hours to get it on before it sets. If you refrigerate it, the curing stops, therefore you can do some today and some tomorrow. I believe there was an online video at the time that showed how it works. You might look on YouTube.

Seemed to work fine.

I applied it over a leaking EDPM rubber roof.

I wouldn't have thought of applying it over an aluminum roof, but It would do the job, in my opinion. If I recall, you don't even have to remove the old goop over the screws on the roof penetrations... just paint over them.

Fred3

As a followup, checking with the guy I sold the Automate to, the roof still is good. 'Been 8 years since application, and stored outside in either Sacramento area (hot summer) or California coast (lotta rain).

Also, I reviewed the instructional video (this morning) on the link provided at the top of this thread. It shows EXACTLY what to do. Watch it all and you'll see prep and application technique.

Fred3

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One more thing...

ANY silicone based product used on the roof must be ENTIRELY removed before applying Liquid Roof. Today I emailed and got an answer to this effect from their website.

So... it any roof maintenance was done with RTV or other silicone goop, then use the above precaution.

Fred3

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  • 1 year later...

does look interesting. does anyone know if this is suitable for an aluminum roofed odyssey?

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Why not have the roof rhino vinyled?

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  • 1 year later...

Why not have the roof rhino vinyled?

This a a bit cheaper than the rhino lining. And you usually (unless something has changed) need to paint it over white to avoid turning into a death heat box.

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You can get roll-on bed liner similar to rhino or line-x in white. Price for roll on and liquid roof are similar. Either method requires some common sense prep work.

I've used it to coat & wateproof a piece of plywood used for covering an outdoor box. It seems to have held up well after a few years.

I emailed a manufacturer of the stuff, and they thought it would work well on an rv roof.

BTW post #4 for this thread was mine. I've also used the liquid roof product.

For my aluminum roof Dolphin, I repaired any and all penetrations, and the edges where they 90 degree bend to the vertical sides. I used the non-butyl tape, and dicor where appropriate. It worked well and is how I'd do it again. It's been through a couple of winters and is holding up very well.

"Waiter" has a post on how he did his roof vents. I did mine after reading his post.

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