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Need some help, I have 1988 22re 71,000 miles run great 15 plus mpg 21.6 motor home, have to crank three or four times before it starts, what is the most common cause for this to be happening, when i bough it . had tune up and oil and trans changed. I put a new fuel filter on it, and hope I never have to do that again for a another 70,000. once started runs great , now when I stop for gas leave it running, don't like this but its better than the hard starting. I have put 2,000 mile on it with no problems, where do i start to fix this, some times when cold I turn the key and it starts right up first try. I have a hard time trusting repair shops. So its me or live with it, any help thanks.

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Big difference on starting procedures between EFI and Carb.

On EFI, You should not touch the gas pedal. (On many EFI, Holding the gas pedal to the floor shuts off fuel in a "Clear Flooded" mode)

Is this Electronic Fuel Injected or Carb?? ( I ask that because I have an 88 and its EFI)

If its EFI, try this, Turn the key ON for about 5 seconds, but do not attempt to start, turn the key off for 2 seconds. Do this about three times. T

The fourth time, go ahead and try and start.

Let me know what happens and I'll need to look in the book and see where the check valve is located. (normally its part of the Fuel pump)

Here's whats happening *****

The Check Valve is there to keep the fuel system pressurized after you shut the engine down. (It can hold pressure for weeks)

If the check valve is sticking open, what happens is, when you shut the engine off, fuel in the lines will drain back to the tank, What aggravates the problem, With a hot engine, as the pressure in the fuel line drops, its boiling point goes down and fuel in the line can boil and push all the fuel in the line back into the tank.

When you attempt to start the engine the next time, the pump only runs for X seconds. The short period of time the pump runs isn't long enough to get fuel up to the Injectors, and under to correct pressure.

NOTE - If this is the problem, the other item that can cause this is a stuck or leaky injector. If an injector is leaky, it will bleed off the fuel system pressure and the symptoms will be the similiar. A leaky injector won't drain the fuel line, but usually just causes pressure bleed down. May need only one reattempt.

I need to verify this, but when you turn the key on and don't attempt a start, you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds, then quit.

(Most vehicles run the pump for a couple seconds to build up pressure, However, there are a few (my 97 Camry) that don't run the pump until you actually attempt to start.) The pump will keep running =only after oil pressure is built up and it sees a tach signal that indicates the engine is running

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Derek;

Richard said he has an 88, it should be EFI.

Cold start on the Carb should be as you mentioned, Slowly all the way to the floor, then may 1 to 5 full presses to the floor (depending how cold) to squirt fuel in the manifold.

Warm / should be one press to the floor, then crank.

(Been a Long Time since I started a Carb - Last one was an 82 El Camino)

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Big difference on starting procedures between EFI and Carb.

On EFI, You should not touch the gas pedal. (On many EFI, Holding the gas pedal to the floor shuts off fuel in a "Clear Flooded" mode)

Is this Electronic Fuel Injected or Carb?? ( I ask that because I have an 88 and its EFI)

If its EFI, try this, Turn the key ON for about 5 seconds, but do not attempt to start, turn the key off for 2 seconds. Do this about three times. T

The fourth time, go ahead and try and start.

Let me know what happens and I'll need to look in the book and see where the check valve is located. (normally its part of the Fuel pump)

Here's whats happening *****

The Check Valve is there to keep the fuel system pressurized after you shut the engine down. (It can hold pressure for weeks)

If the check valve is sticking open, what happens is, when you shut the engine off, fuel in the lines will drain back to the tank, What aggravates the problem, With a hot engine, as the pressure in the fuel line drops, its boiling point goes down and fuel in the line can boil and push all the fuel in the line back into the tank.

When you attempt to start the engine the next time, the pump only runs for X seconds. The short period of time the pump runs isn't long enough to get fuel up to the Injectors, and under to correct pressure.

NOTE - If this is the problem, the other item that can cause this is a stuck or leaky injector. If an injector is leaky, it will bleed off the fuel system pressure and the symptoms will be the similiar. A leaky injector won't drain the fuel line, but usually just causes pressure bleed down. May need only one reattempt.

I need to verify this, but when you turn the key on and don't attempt a start, you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds, then quit.

(Most vehicles run the pump for a couple seconds to build up pressure, However, there are a few (my 97 Camry) that don't run the pump until you actually attempt to start.) The pump will keep running =only after oil pressure is built up and it sees a tach signal that indicates the engine is running

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Waiter tried what you said about turning key on an off four times and it worked first time, where do i go from here , checked inter net to find pressure valve but know luck, is it in the fuel pump, and do i need a new fuel pump, right now wish i had a garb in stead , muck easier for me to work on. maybe I have to live with this, when it runs its great , don't want to mess this up

thanks TAKE CARE RICHARD

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Waiter tried what you said about turning key on an off four times and it worked first time, where do i go from here , checked inter net to find pressure valve but know luck, is it in the fuel pump, and do i need a new fuel pump, right now wish i had a garb in stead , muck easier for me to work on. maybe I have to live with this, when it runs its great , don't want to mess this up

thanks TAKE CARE RICHARD

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You need the manual. A very good one (Factory Manual) that has theory of operation, etc. is located over on the Yahoo Group. If your not a member of the group, you should join. A lot of the same people that are here, but a different format. ( I prefer the Web site based (here), some people prefer the e-mail based groups (yahoo)

The link to the manual is located in their "links" section. Its actually in Google Docs (yes, you'll need to have a Google Docs username/password, but believe me, this is worth it. The manual is 84 meg and 1400 pages. This manual is a must have. so make sure you have a good high speed connection.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/links

OK, there is a good troubleshooting section for EFI. If the fuel is bleeding back, it could be either the Regulator or the fuel pump.

However, before you do any of these, you might want to try a chemical solution first. Get a bottle of the best (Chevron) fuel injector cleaner and run a tank of this, Its possible it could free up a stuck valve in the fuel pump or Regulator, and besides, it will probably help clean the injectors.

At this point, I would say your down to a Regulator, or a Fuel pump.. The regulator will be easy to replace (and its the least expensive). The fuel pump is in the tank, You may need to drop the tank to get at it.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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i have to same problem with a 1984 22r with carb if it set more than 1# hr. it will not start.at all have to prim it to get it going and runs good.whatz th best way to fix this.thanks for any help

Dave

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5Toyota too mule they even made the 22r carb in 11187 i had one but was rear ended totaled you should look on the site called Yoda Tech if your not in a smog zone i am not in eastern wash state i have run two one 1978 toyota20 rand a datsun drove for 24 years both i had the famous but not cheap Weeber 2 barell cant spell very carb datsun carb 1974 all junk toyota carb very good 1977 toyota wagen but if you need acarb those are great my 20r moter home had one when i got it

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5Toyota too mule they even made the 22r carb in 11187 i had one but was rear ended totaled you should look on the site called Yoda Tech if your not in a smog zone i am not in eastern wash state i have run two one 1978 toyota20 rand a datsun drove for 24 years both i had the famous but not cheap Weeber 2 barell cant spell very carb datsun carb 1974 all junk toyota carb very good 1977 toyota wagen but if you need acarb those are great my 20r moter home had one when i got it

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