ATXBreeze Posted February 20 Posted February 20 (edited) Original (12V continuous duty solenoid or battery isolator )crapped out (after 37 years!) Doing all the regular looking with much help from AI - ebay, amazon, partsgeek, rockauto, all of 'em, haven't really found any thing that's completely convincing. Anybody replaced one like mine, or comparable/not exact form factor? and where did you buy it. I've have limited success. Part number part # 12V40A. TY! Found this on the site, would it work for me (1989 Toyota 6 cylinder, 3.0L VZE)? Posted related pictures of my old one Redodo 12V/24V 150A Adjustable Dual Battery Isolator (VSR) - Auto Connect/Disconnect Starter and House Batteries, with LCD Display Edited February 20 by ATXBreeze Quote
ATXBreeze Posted February 21 Author Posted February 21 Thank you! Nearly bought the wrong part Boy, were I and Claude way off! Could a broken circuit breaker be the reason my house battery is not turning the lights on or my water pump? Quote
extech Posted February 21 Posted February 21 that breaker isn't toyota, so it likely is part of the aug. battery charging. if the coach battery is dead your stuff won't work, but it's hard to say if the bad breaker is the only culprit Quote
fred heath Posted February 21 Posted February 21 12 hours ago, ATXBreeze said: Original (12V continuous duty solenoid or battery isolator )crapped out (after 37 years!) Doing all the regular looking with much help from AI - ebay, amazon, partsgeek, rockauto, all of 'em, haven't really found any thing that's completely convincing. Anybody replaced one like mine, or comparable/not exact form factor? and where did you buy it. I've have limited success. Part number part # 12V40A. TY! Found this on the site, would it work for me (1989 Toyota 6 cylinder, 3.0L VZE)? Posted related pictures of my old one Redodo 12V/24V 150A Adjustable Dual Battery Isolator (VSR) - Auto Connect/Disconnect Starter and House Batteries, with LCD Display Get a good voltmeter. With engine off, test the voltage of your coach battery. It should read 12.5 volts or better. If not, chances are the battery is defective and needs to be replaced. Next, with engine running check the voltage at the coach battery. It should be getting 13.8 to 14.5 volts. If not, the problem is somewhere between the isolator and the battery. That circuit breaker looks nasty and should be replaced. They are directional, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If your isolator is original, it probably wouldn’t hurt to replace it. You don’t need a fancy electronic unit. I use a $25 solenoid isolator purchased online. It’s been fine for over 8 years. Here’s an example from Amazon. https://a.co/d/0eZQgfGu Quote
ATXBreeze Posted February 21 Author Posted February 21 So this is what I should have been after all along, yes, the isolator? On firewall several inches from the now replaced circuit breaker. Everything hooked up again, house battery working, but I charged it. If it runs out of juice, then its the isolator replacement up next, yes? (sorry, pic upside down) Quote
fred heath Posted February 21 Posted February 21 1 hour ago, ATXBreeze said: So this is what I should have been after all along, yes, the isolator? On firewall several inches from the now replaced circuit breaker. Everything hooked up again, house battery working, but I charged it. If it runs out of juice, then its the isolator replacement up next, yes? (sorry, pic upside down) Definitely a good idea. That unit looks like it’s seen better days. Your new isolator will give hookup instructions. You will have a total of 4 wires to hookup. Of the two large terminals one is attached to the truck battery or alternator output. The other one goes to the coach battery. On the two small terminals, one is ground and the other an ignition “on” supply. Take a good picture of your setup before unhooking anything. It’s a pretty simple operation. Be sure to clean and check both battery connectors at the same time. Quote
WME Posted February 21 Posted February 21 There are 3 and 4 post isolators. Both have the 2 large terminals. Large terminals hookup is... output wire from alternator to 1 terminal. To the same terminal large wire to truck battery. The other large terminals is to charge the house battery, from that terminal a short wire should go to the circuit breaker C/ and then to the house battery. Broken C/B house battery no charge. 3 post isolator, 2 big terminals, 1 ignition on wire. The case is the ground. 4 post isolator, same as 3 post. BUT the case is isolated and the 4th terminal is the ground. A Volt meter the the most important tool for you to have. Quote
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