1 ton brake booster upgrade question for 84 sunrader

[AnthonyG]

I have interference between the new bigger booster and my steering rod. Did anyone just grind the lip of the booster? I don’t really want to grind on the column as there is a weld there.

[Ssunrader]

That sucks!

Any way to slot the steering mounting holes inside, just a little?

 

If that doesn’t work, I would probably grind a little on both parts. See if you can find the high spot(s) on the shaft.

 

Any pounding trying to bend that lip may distort the sealing surface, so that’s wouldn’t be a good idea.

[AnthonyG]

Won’t pound

id just grind a little should be fine at the lip sticks up 1/4”.. , but may have a 1/4”-1/2 spacer made too. That’s would cause the bolts and rod to be shorted.. def enough rod but unsure of the bolts just yet . I could notch the bolt holes so the booster would slide up slightly.  but that would cause actuation of the booster to be slightly at an angle.. can’t lower the steering column.. a huge job..  Will probely do a comination of all of all of these.

[fred heath]

I would be very careful grinding the lip of the booster. That is a vacuum vessel. I’ve seen them leak just from age.

 

As soon as you grind that booster, you’ve lost any factory warranty it might have. I know you’re between a rock and a hard place. Good luck.

[FliegerinSB]

Brake booster on a 1986 Sun-Land Express, an original part, leaked due to old age; I lost braking ability.  Mechanic replaced both master cylinder and booster immediately.  Had to search somewhat for the parts (particularly the booster, I think), but I now have adequate braking capacity again.  I'm just the owner/driver, not a mechanic, but I doubt I'd suggest 'fixing' a vacuum vessel.   

[extech]

this was on my old booster.  you need it? p.m.me

[IdahoDoug]

You have a picture of the steering shaft coming through a black steel bowl shaped structure bolted to the firewall.  It would be great to move the steel bowl structure a quarter inch away from the booster, but those are welded on nuts and not easy.  My question is, can you instead move the shaft within the bowl by removing the bolts that locate it there, and elongating the holes slightly in the direction you need?  The tiny angle change of the shaft will not affect anything, and when reattached, the clamping pressure of the fasteners will easily keep the shaft where you want it.  You may need to also elongate another pair of holes on the dash side, but likely not and it's a pretty low brow solution. There's usually a lot of slack for movement of this assembly during the car's assembly due to variations in dashboard dimenstions, etc. Thoughts from the herd?

Edited October 27, 2025 by IdahoDoug