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Posted

The previous owner of my rig couldn’t seem to figure out that starting the engine with a dead house battery would tend to cook the alternator, went through three that I saw from the paperwork I saw.
 

I needed something that will allow charging a lifepo4 lithium battery and not kill my alternator.

 

Am in the process of installing a Victron Orion 30A charger now. That is made to limit the current.

Posted

👍Yeppers, got one myself. Alternator most happy.

Posted

I’m mounting a fan on the back of my Orion charger, have to run another wire for that unless I decide to make a thermo-switch circuit.

 

Also picked up a ‘94 Jaguar alternator, same plug on the back, 140A, added some beefier cables between the battery/alternator/frame.image.jpeg.dad417423ceefa4e2d56046e51d059f2.jpeg

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Trying to replace the isolator on my 1989 Toyota MicroSpirt, 6 cylinder, 3.0L VZE. Pics are of the isolator's original mounting, unmounted, part number, and and potential Redodo* replacement (found here at the Forum). If anyone can confirm the Redodo will work AOK.

 

*Redodo 12V/24V 150A Adjustable Dual Battery Isolator (VSR) - Auto Connect/Disconnect Starter and House Batteries, with LCD Display

 

Thank You!

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Posted

Yes, I isolated the isolator. Replaced the circuit breaker, see if this resolves the house battery issue. If not, will move on to the isolator. THX

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Posted

Those solenoids are common failure devices. Also back in the day they classified them as a isolator but it is only a isolator when the engine is shut off. When the engine is running and the circuit is charging it is no longer a isolator. The coach or starting batteries can become over charged or under charged. I suggest replacing it with a modern smart isolator. 

Posted

Such as this REDODO? Or if this ain't one that'll work, can you please direct me to one that will. I'd appreciate a link 😀 TY!

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Posted

The service records that came with our ‘91 showed a pattern of alternator replacement in the springtime.

About when someone would go start it up with a dead house battery and cook the 70A alternator.

Posted (edited)

Isolator's

Ultra smart ... Redodo

Smart...Cole- Hersee 48525

Standard ... Cole-Hersee 24590-8

 

Cole-Hersee uses silver contacts not copper.

 

Big battery, small alternator, to protect alternator a  DC to DC charger....Victron  Orion TR 12/12- 18A

There other Dc to DC converters

Edited by WME
Posted (edited)

Decades ago I  bought a diod type (not sure if that is the right name) isolator to replace my "old school" relay.

 

Since I'm not a "do it for fun" because I'm bored, kind of person, I never got around to swapping and still have the relay on and working fine.

 

Glad I didn't put it in as all things battery have changed a LOT in the 3 decades I've owned my toy house. 

 

This topic has caused me to "rethink" my "it's fine" plan now.

 

So.......

 

Who has one of these smart isolators installed and has it been long enough for a verdict? 

 

Here another I've come across besides Redodo

 

https://www.vevor.com/relay-c_45405/vevor-dual-battery-isolator-12v-300-amp-manual-and-automatic-vsr-voltage-sensitive-relay-with-lcd-screen-smart-battery-isolator-for-lithium-lead-acid-batteries-for-car-truck-rv-utv-atv-boat-p_010972972654

 

 

 

Edited by turtle
spl'n
Posted

Depending on how close to the minimum performance edge your RV battery setup is. It's important to remember that a diode has a .7v loss. Loss makes heat, that is why this type of isolator has fins. 

Posted
7 minutes ago, WME said:

Depending on how close to the minimum performance edge your RV battery setup is. It's important to remember that a diode has a .7v loss. Loss makes heat, that is why this type of isolator has fins. 

 

 

Came across the  diode one I have in a thrift store for a couple dollars but never installed it.  Been so long I can't remember where it is now.... <gees>

 

Everyone has that "dead coach battery" after winter issue.  Even unplugged, they seem to discharge.

 

I always hook up the coach battery to a low amp charger for a few days before I switch to the AC/DC inverter/charger to top it up before even trying to turn the engine on.  I guess I have been doing the right thing with out knowing.

 

I do think that a "smart" isolator might be in the cards before I head out this year.

 

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