Converter Replacement for Underwriters Laboratory - Model 6345 UL

[sdstrain]

Hello,

I've seen some good discussions on here regarding Converter issues. I was hoping for help...

 

I am the owner of a 1986 Sunland Express with a solar system installed. The solar isn't the problem.

Recently the Converter started making a bit of a buzzing noise. And certain wires worked to light up lights or other electronics and certain ones don't anymore, like my water pump. 

 

I've gone through the fuses and don't as much as my limited mind can do. I think I need to replace the converter. 

Anyone know of the proper converter replacement for the Underwriters Laboratory Model 6346 Converter and Battery Charger?

 

I saw this link https://www.campingworld.com/wfco-45-amp-universal-replacement-kit-58357.html

 

On another discussion regarding converters. 

Any links of model names would help me out a ton.

Thanks,

Sam

[linda s]

Your converter is not Underwriter Laboratory's. They are an independent nonprofit that issues safety approvals for almost every electrical appliance made. Yours is probably Progressive Dynamics. Your looking for a Magnatex, Parallax or WFCO converter. The one you have a link for looks fine but measure the size of yours and make sure it will fit. Sizes it seems have changed over the years. 

Linda S

[WME]

You need a voltmeter. 

https://www.bestconverter.com/   is a source for information and converters.

Well you may be right about having a bad converter, it's is odd that some of the 12v in your RV is working. The converter only has 1 output, that wire goes to the fuse panel where it branches out to the fuses to power the 12v stuff. It is possible that the converter is working OK and the water pump is bad.

 

 

 

[RiggerRob]

This is the converter I used to replace the old one in my '86 Sunland Express:

 

https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8735-P-Black-Power-Center/dp/B004LF14Q4

 

Going on 4 years with no issues at all. Replacement is fairly straight forward. WFCO also offers an "updated" version that seems to be the same thing. The Camping World one you linked is a 45 amp converter - you won't need one that large for your Sunland Express. I would encourage you to replace the old A/C breakers as well - my original ones were in such bad shape they crumbled to dust when I took them out. Also, the A/C breaker contacts on the old converter were melted and starting to short out - big time fire hazard! The new converter doesn't come with A/C breakers - you can grab them at any big box hardware store or at an electrical supply house.  The new converter wasn't a perfect fit so I framed in scrap pieces of trim to close the gaps. Good luck!

[sdstrain]

Hey all,

Thanks for the feedback. I attached a few photos of my setup in case it inspires any comments. 

 

I have a Voltmeter and have done some checks on and off over time. I bought a brand new water pump, so I sure hope it's not that. 

 

Full transparency, I am revisiting this after a very long time. My engine had problems and I am currently undergoing a rebuild of the engine. 

 

I figure now that I can hopefully depend on the engine, it's worth it to do some interior work. 

I am starting with the converter since almost none of my appliances/lights work. 

 

I can hook up to my inverter and run anything off AC through my solar, but the DC side is all screwed up.

 

As I start this rebuild, I'm sure you'll be seeing many more posts from me. 

 

Love this forum, been watching it for a long time. 

Thanks,

 

Sam

[sdstrain]

This is the main thing that has me curious. 

 

I assume it goes to my car battery and it looks like it's melted.

 

 

[extech]

im sure your battery  6-18 is toast or will be soon. 5 years is about all you get.  the thing in question is a circuit breaker(auto reset)

[extech]

with shore power connected, use voltmeter black lead to the white wires connection - red lead to each of the fuses in turn they are the feeds to your 12v acc.

[WME]

OK lots of scary pictures. If you had someone who spoke "Electron" this would be a 30 min diagnosis. Over the net this is going to be an "how do you eat an elephant" project. 

1 start here. You have a picture of just the battery. Does it have 12v? If it has 12v then don't hook anything to it. If not do you have/can borrow a 12v car battery charger and try to charge. Old batteries can develop a surface charge and show voltage, but have no power.

2. The picture of the fuse panel. There is a large red wire and a bunch of white wires. The red wire should be the power wire FROM the converter. Can you follow it and see where it goes. IF it is the converter wire a voltage check is in order. Looks like your rig is wired as red+ and white -

IMPORATANT protect/tape all the ends of the loose wires. SPARKS NOT ALLOWED. Disconnect and remove the inverter. Silver thingie next to the battery

Plug in the converter to shore power, find the circuit breaker that feed the converter and turn it on. Measure DC voltage between the fuse panel red wire and all the white wires, AND from the Blue wire to the white wires.. Red and Blue should be 12v + and the SAME.  Should be 12-14v DC

Not sure! ask questions first. Post result

It looks like we won't be able to check the alternator

Edited April 4, 2023 by WME

[sdstrain]

All your thoughts are great.

 

Whether I've been logged in or not I've followed this board for a long time. All the main players are coming to my aid and I really appreciate it.

 

I am going to go silent for a bit because I really can't do much until my engine is back where it should be living. 

 

I've done a lot of the tests you are all referring to. I've used the multimeter to track down a lot of information. How I Interpret that info is the problem because I am not very briefed on electricity as a whole.

With that, I am feeling pretty certain that starting with a new Power Converter can't be a bad thing considering the cost isn't much when thinking about doing a whole interior rebuild. 

 

Those pictures were taken before I disconnected every single wire in my electrical setup, minus wires connected to the converter. 

 

I even disconnected my solar panels because I noticed a spark between the wires even after unwiring from the charge controller and the battery. So at this point, there isn't any electrical power source connected to anything.

 

My plan is to hire an electrician. A friend. But a professional electrician and I will ask him to install my new converter and make sure all the DC wires going to any appliance, light, etc are working properly.

 

Then my plan is to rebuild the interior. 

 

I have good money that I will get stuck along the way quite a few times and I will post about it as I go. 

 

Any input is welcome once that process is underway.

 

I know it sucks to hire an electrician, but I am a Wildland Firefighter living in Arizona and my fire season is about to get underway. I live in my motorhome during the season and I rather just pay to get things right. 

 

I do as much as I can solo, but with electricity it Is probably worth it.

I am through and through an enthusiast for these motorhomes and wish I had the time to learn it all myself.

Thank you for such prompt attention. More to come...

 

 

Thanks,

Sam

[Ctgriffi]

I'll just second what others have said and add: you can't really go wrong with purchasing a new power converter at this point, since you have the original (low-tech) unit in place, and newer/better options are available for reasonable prices (one example). Now, are there other electrical problems involved that won't be fixed by a new converter? Possible and probable, but it sounds like you've got a good plan in place to sort the other stuff out, involving your friend-the-electrician.

 

Good luck!