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New Proud Owner of a 1988 18ft Nissan Sunrader


lucidawake

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Hello All,

 

I am a new proud owner of a 1988 18ft Nissan Sunrader with a V6 and 5-Speed Manual transmission! I plan on doing some updating and renovations over time and have tried to research on my own. I still have some initial questions if you don't mind assisting me as I understand that there are a lot.

 

1) The vinyl Covering in the first picture needs to be replaced. Do you have any recommendations on how to do that or any suggestions for upgrading the insulation in that area?

 

2) Does anyone know what the two ends of the grey wire in the second picture are supposed to connect to?

 

3) Can someone tell me what type of replacement weather stripping that I need for the cab door in the third picture?

 

4) The only clearance light that is currently working is on the rear bottom on the drivers side. Does anyone have any insight as to what the issue might be?

 

 

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Edited by lucidawake
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Second picture looks like the white wire touching the floor goes to the crimp connector top left. Not sure what it’s supposed do power though. Maybe the remaining lights? One way to find out. Join them together and see what happens.

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-Did you check to see if the bulbs are good?

- Any hardware store will have weather stripping that will work for the door jam.

- The vinyl covering is like that most likely due to water damage. Take it off and see what you have to work with then you can repair and cover it with many different material options.

 

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Clearence lights are powered from the rear passenger side taillight supply up and around the back to drivers' side, then to front and across. Only way to find out where the power stops is with a multi meter and checking for power all along those lines. Don't quite understand how that one light at the bottom is still lit but I'm not sure if the lower lights are on the same electric chain. If you have power at the socket on any of them a new bulb should work. If not fixing them is a major job. 

Yes wires underneath are probably tank light wires. Does your tank monitor work inside? 

Fixing front. I usually use spray glue for situation like this but if you want to leave you windows alone, not remove them, your probably better off with contact glue. Buy vinyl from a fabric store, apply contact glue to wall and fabric, let dry and apply pressing down firmly only in the center where you need it. Then trim with blade cutter being careful not to damage your window seal. 

Weather strip. I'll go measure mine tomorrow and find you a fit. It is a D shaped bulb seal but I'm sure we can find a good one

Linda S

Your rig is a gem. I wish mine was a manual trannie. And Boys, she's got a factory 5 speed there. 

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22 hours ago, fred heath said:

Second picture looks like the white wire touching the floor goes to the crimp connector top left. Not sure what it’s supposed do power though. Maybe the remaining lights? One way to find out. Join them together and see what happens.

I will give that a shot! I do not see a crimp connector for the other side of the wire though. 

22 hours ago, MaineJed said:

Those white wires most likely go to the tank monitor in the coach, that lets you know how full the tank is, should be 3 different ones.

That makes a lot of sense. 

20 hours ago, MaineJed said:

-Did you check to see if the bulbs are good?

- Any hardware store will have weather stripping that will work for the door jam.

- The vinyl covering is like that most likely due to water damage. Take it off and see what you have to work with then you can repair and cover it with many different material options.

 

- I have purchased new bulbs and once the weather permits it, I plan on replacing them. The clearance lights aren't in great shape so I plan on replacing all of them in the Spring.

- It appears that the weather stripping for the door jam is a special kind designed to attach to the lip but I could be wrong about that.

- There was definitely a previous leak issue with the wraparound windows as the sleeping cab has been rebuilt and the window seals appear somewhat new. Either way I plan on resealing all of the windows in the Spring.

19 hours ago, linda s said:

Clearence lights are powered from the rear passenger side taillight supply up and around the back to drivers' side, then to front and across. Only way to find out where the power stops is with a multi meter and checking for power all along those lines. Don't quite understand how that one light at the bottom is still lit but I'm not sure if the lower lights are on the same electric chain. If you have power at the socket on any of them a new bulb should work. If not fixing them is a major job. 

Yes wires underneath are probably tank light wires. Does your tank monitor work inside? 

Fixing front. I usually use spray glue for situation like this but if you want to leave you windows alone, not remove them, your probably better off with contact glue. Buy vinyl from a fabric store, apply contact glue to wall and fabric, let dry and apply pressing down firmly only in the center where you need it. Then trim with blade cutter being careful not to damage your window seal. 

Weather strip. I'll go measure mine tomorrow and find you a fit. It is a D shaped bulb seal but I'm sure we can find a good one

Linda S

Your rig is a gem. I wish mine was a manual trannie. And Boys, she's got a factory 5 speed there. 

- I have a Multimeter and will troubleshoot with that once the weather permits it. I too found the location of the only working clearance light to be odd.

- I purchased the Sunrader fully winterized so I haven't really tested monitoring system yet but will check that out.

- I will check out the glue and vinyl solution that you suggested. The sleeping cab was rebuilt with a frame that fits a short full mattress so there is some extra room for additional insulation. I plan want to keep the wraparound windows so I      would like to find a solution for a removable insulation to keep the area warm because I plan on living in it long term.

- There is a bit of a gap with the door closed so finding a perfect fit would be ideal. I would appreciate the measurements for the D shaped bulb seal when you have the time.

- It is indeed a gem! After purchasing a 21ft Sunrader with a 22RE and Automatic Transmission, It was clear that it was not going to work for my needs and I felt a bit devastated. I figured that the only way a Sunrader would work for me is if I could find an 18ft with a V6 and 5 speed but finding one seemed like a pipe dream. Through a series of serendipitous events I came into contact a forum member that was about to list his for sale and he only lived an hour away from me! I paid top dollar for it and while it needs a little bit of work, it is mechanically very sound with impeccable service records kept since it was purchased.

 

2 hours ago, Scott iv said:

If the motor has been maintained well it should provide a nice combination of power and economy. I'd be interested in hearing about its performance once the issues have been ironed out. Doesn't seem to be many out there with the 5 speed 6cyl. 

- I currently own a 21ft Toyota Sunrader with a 22RE and Automatic Transmission that I plan on listing for sale in the Spring. I live at 8,000ft in the Colorado mountains with miles of rough dirt roads. It is hard to describe what a night and day difference there is with the V6, 5-Speed Manual 4.33 gear ratio. The Nissan sits a few inches higher and the braking and handling feels much better as well. I need to confirm it with my mechanic but I also believe that this came with a factory Limited Slip Differential. My intention is not to put down the Toyotas as they both have there strengths and weaknesses. One difficulty with the Nissan is finding parts or aftermarket support and this is even with my brother being a Regional Service Manager for a chain or Nissan Dealerships. The length of time researching upgrades for the Nissan has been much more difficult and there are still things that I am having trouble getting clarity on.

2 hours ago, mpanzar said:

I use this for the weather stripping:

https://www.mcmaster.com/1566N158/

image.png.bb8837642dc4d2eea021d6077afd5341.png

I will check this out! Thanks!

 

I just want to thank you all for your support! This has been very helpful and it is great to know that there is a community of people so willing to offer there insight.

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when i bought my dolphin, some clearance lights were out. i just bought a bunch of led clearance lights and replaced them all. i think it was cheaper than the incandescents

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Sorry no limited slip differential.  Only on 4x4's. I forgot to check door seal before I left house but I remember going through this with another member. That gasket is not a simple replacement . Seem to remember it goes completely between the door and the frame. I'll take a look when I get home. 

Linda S

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21 hours ago, extech said:

when i bought my dolphin, some clearance lights were out. i just bought a bunch of led clearance lights and replaced them all. i think it was cheaper than the incandescents

Thanks! I have LED replacements ready to go but unfortunately the weather is unlikely to cooperate until June where I live so I am in need of a short term solution.

19 hours ago, linda s said:

Sorry no limited slip differential.  Only on 4x4's. I forgot to check door seal before I left house but I remember going through this with another member. That gasket is not a simple replacement . Seem to remember it goes completely between the door and the frame. I'll take a look when I get home. 

Linda S

- Regarding the Limited Slip, I found this information on a Nissan forum here & here. I won't go by forum posts alone and will have a definite answer once my mechanic gets it up on a lift. Maybe it's just wishful thinking but it would be great to have a LSD!

 

- I look forward to hearing back about the door gasket! Thanks!

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The door seal in your picture does appear to be a simple stick-on seal like Mapanzar posted. You should be able to find the right size at your local hardware store. Maybe a lighter color to match the old one. Clean it out with a razor blade and put in new. The gasket I was worried about is the black one visible from the outside that goes between the door frame and the coach body. That one would be a problem even though mine is not looking too good. I couldn't even find a replacement until I took the whole door out. 

Linda S

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Differentials available for a 1988 Nissan truck. You can see there are no 2wd locking or limited slip. In fact no limited slip at all

 


Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), DRW
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, King Cab, AT (3.900 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, King Cab, MT (3.700 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 6' box, AT (3.900 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 6' box, MT (3.700 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 7' box, SE, AT (3.900 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 7' box, SE, MT (3.700 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 7' box, exc. SE
Front Axle, 6 cylinder
Rear Axle, 4x2, 4 cylinder, non-locking, AT
Rear Axle, 4x2, 4 cylinder, non-locking, MT
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, locking, AT, DX (4.625 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, locking, AT, SE (4.375 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, locking, MT
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, non-locking, AT (4.625 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, non-locking, MT (4.375 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 4 cylinder, locking
Rear Axle, 4x4, 4 cylinder, non-locking
Front Axle, 4 cylinder
Rear Axle, 4x2, 4 cylinder, locking

 

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20 hours ago, linda s said:

The door seal in your picture does appear to be a simple stick-on seal like Mapanzar posted. You should be able to find the right size at your local hardware store. Maybe a lighter color to match the old one. Clean it out with a razor blade and put in new. The gasket I was worried about is the black one visible from the outside that goes between the door frame and the coach body. That one would be a problem even though mine is not looking too good. I couldn't even find a replacement until I took the whole door out. 

Linda S

 

19 hours ago, linda s said:

Differentials available for a 1988 Nissan truck. You can see there are no 2wd locking or limited slip. In fact no limited slip at all

 


Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), DRW
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, King Cab, AT (3.900 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, King Cab, MT (3.700 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 6' box, AT (3.900 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 6' box, MT (3.700 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 7' box, SE, AT (3.900 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 7' box, SE, MT (3.700 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x2, 6 cylinder (non-locking), SRW, Regular Cab, 7' box, exc. SE
Front Axle, 6 cylinder
Rear Axle, 4x2, 4 cylinder, non-locking, AT
Rear Axle, 4x2, 4 cylinder, non-locking, MT
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, locking, AT, DX (4.625 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, locking, AT, SE (4.375 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, locking, MT
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, non-locking, AT (4.625 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 6 cylinder, non-locking, MT (4.375 ratio)
Rear Axle, 4x4, 4 cylinder, locking
Rear Axle, 4x4, 4 cylinder, non-locking
Front Axle, 4 cylinder
Rear Axle, 4x2, 4 cylinder, locking

 

Thank you Linda!

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Depending on where you are driving LSD range from very helpful to dangerous. On dirt, gravel, mud and such like they are very helpful. On deep snow or moderately packed snow it's OK. On glazed ice they can be dangerous. On ice if the rear wheels are spinning, there is no side traction and if the road has a gradient, the rear can slide sideways. With an open diff at least one tire has some side traction. Of course with an open differential and incorrect throttle🤪 management you can get both rear wheels spinning and slide off sideways

For the best of everything a locker is the way to go, they can be air or electric operated. Think of it as a LSD with an on/off switch.

Edited by WME
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12 hours ago, WME said:

Depending on where you are driving LSD range from very helpful to dangerous. On dirt, gravel, mud and such like they are very helpful. On deep snow or moderately packed snow it's OK. On glazed ice they can be dangerous. On ice if the rear wheels are spinning, there is no side traction and if the road has a gradient, the rear can slide sideways. With an open diff at least one tire has some side traction. Of course with an open differential and incorrect throttle🤪 management you can get both rear wheels spinning and slide off sideways

For the best of everything a locker is the way to go, they can be air or electric operated. Think of it as a LSD with an on/off switch.

Thanks! I agree and would prefer a selectable locker. If I ever choose to add the modification I would definitely choose that over a LSD even if it significantly more expensive.

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On the Toyotas, some actually came from the factory with electric lockers.  Not on our RVs, but on some of the pickups and 4x4s.  These are common enough I can grab a 3rd member for mine online for reasonable prices, and if I find it locally in a pick-n-pull I can even get it really cheaply!  Yukon gears (I believe it was them anyways) makes one that is an "auto locker," not sure how that works but I am pretty sure I don't like the idea for use on icy roads...  ARB, of course, makes an air locker.  Still, this is talking about the Toyotas.  I don't have the foggiest clue what is available aftermarket for the Nissans, is there much?  And I also personally know the hell that finding parts for the older Nissans can be...  

 

Yes the 22RE Toyotas are kinda underpowered, but even more so poorly geared.  I have been playing on various Toyota forums for a while now and I see echoed there what several of the members here have said, change the rear end ratio!  Even some of the newer Toyotas suffer from REALLY poor final gearing.

 

The absolute best drive though I took in my Mini Cruiser was the last one.  I had recently finished the 4.88 rear end upgrade and HOLY CRAP it made a HUGE DIFFERENCE!  The sluggishness was completely gone.  RPM was in a better range.  It was super responsive.  The validation was pretty awesome, I just wish I had gotten to take it on some proper adventures.  Someday.  

 

The community here is pretty awesome, I must agree!  It is why I am still here after selling my Mini Cruiser!  That and Linda hasn't banned me yet, hopefully I am still useful lol!  😉  I came here for the RV stuff, but fell in LOVE with the Toyota platform!  The day I delivered the Mini Cruiser to my friend, we left from his place and drove about an hour to pick up my 4Runner, and I couldn't be happier!    Sometime soon I might just sneak a build thread into the Miscellaneous section for my 4Runner Overlander Project.  eventually, I would love to find another Toyota (maybe even a Nissan) RV.   For now I am just happy to be back working on familiar mechanical bits and using the knowledge I gained here from my Mini Cruiser to plan out a simpler camper conversion.

 

Anyways your Toyota to Nissan experience sorta sounds like my pre and post rear end swap drives.       

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15 hours ago, thewanderlustking said:

On the Toyotas, some actually came from the factory with electric lockers.  Not on our RVs, but on some of the pickups and 4x4s.  These are common enough I can grab a 3rd member for mine online for reasonable prices, and if I find it locally in a pick-n-pull I can even get it really cheaply!  Yukon gears (I believe it was them anyways) makes one that is an "auto locker," not sure how that works but I am pretty sure I don't like the idea for use on icy roads...  ARB, of course, makes an air locker.  Still, this is talking about the Toyotas.  I don't have the foggiest clue what is available aftermarket for the Nissans, is there much?  And I also personally know the hell that finding parts for the older Nissans can be...  

 

Yes the 22RE Toyotas are kinda underpowered, but even more so poorly geared.  I have been playing on various Toyota forums for a while now and I see echoed there what several of the members here have said, change the rear end ratio!  Even some of the newer Toyotas suffer from REALLY poor final gearing.

 

The absolute best drive though I took in my Mini Cruiser was the last one.  I had recently finished the 4.88 rear end upgrade and HOLY CRAP it made a HUGE DIFFERENCE!  The sluggishness was completely gone.  RPM was in a better range.  It was super responsive.  The validation was pretty awesome, I just wish I had gotten to take it on some proper adventures.  Someday.  

 

The community here is pretty awesome, I must agree!  It is why I am still here after selling my Mini Cruiser!  That and Linda hasn't banned me yet, hopefully I am still useful lol!  😉  I came here for the RV stuff, but fell in LOVE with the Toyota platform!  The day I delivered the Mini Cruiser to my friend, we left from his place and drove about an hour to pick up my 4Runner, and I couldn't be happier!    Sometime soon I might just sneak a build thread into the Miscellaneous section for my 4Runner Overlander Project.  eventually, I would love to find another Toyota (maybe even a Nissan) RV.   For now I am just happy to be back working on familiar mechanical bits and using the knowledge I gained here from my Mini Cruiser to plan out a simpler camper conversion.

 

Anyways your Toyota to Nissan experience sorta sounds like my pre and post rear end swap drives.       

Finding aftermarket parts or information on the Nissan EHLGD21 Heavy Duty DRW model that my Sunrader was built on has been significantly more difficult. This is especially more difficult because there a part variations between the standard D21 and Heavy Duty models. I am considering upgrading the gearing for the rear end because I want to go with bigger tires and there are a few aftermarket gearing options for the 31 Spline H233B rear end. I looked into trying to find larger wheels for the odd bolt pattern that is different than the Toyotas but have not had any luck and Custom & Commercial Wheel says that they do not make them. It seems that my options would be to either have some very custom wheel adapters made or try to fit some 27x8.6r14 tires on the current wheels. ARB and Harrop do make Selectable Lockers but they are quite costly.

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The Nissan duallies are a bit wider apart, deeper dish, than the Toyotas and I can't promise because I haven't tried it but I think the big tires will fit. Unfortunately, the only other company I knew of that made custom rims seems to be out of business. Your stuck with the wheels you've got. You need to realize though that you are getting way more traction with those double wheels. 

Linda S

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21 hours ago, linda s said:

The Nissan duallies are a bit wider apart, deeper dish, than the Toyotas and I can't promise because I haven't tried it but I think the big tires will fit. Unfortunately, the only other company I knew of that made custom rims seems to be out of business. Your stuck with the wheels you've got. You need to realize though that you are getting way more traction with those double wheels. 

Linda S

Thanks,Linda. My Sunrader came with fairly new Yokohama Summer Tires but unfortunately they just are not going to work with the road conditions that I typically find myself in. With the double wheels and the amount of weight in the back I do get very good traction as it is but where I live I need all of the traction that I can get. I don't even know if a 4x4 conversion is possible with the Nissan but I likely would not be able to afford it either way. I plan on having my mechanic measure to see if the General ATX 27x8.5r14 tires will fit without the need to modify the suspension. If I do end up going with the General Tires, I will post the Yokohama's up for sale as I would hate to see them go to waste.

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19 hours ago, linda s said:

It's not a suspension issue. The only possible problem is duallies rubbing in the back if they are too wide. 

Linda S 

I have only seen 2 Sunraders with 27x8.5r14 tires on them. One had 1.5" wheel spacers for the duallies and one did not but they both had 3" lifts on them. Considering that the Nissan sits about 2-3" higher I might be good to go but I am not opposed to adding more lift if needed. According to online gear ratio calculators, 4.63 gearing would bring the RPM's back to stock. There is a surprising amount of re-gearing options for the Nissan such as 4.88, 5.13, 5.57 & 5.89. I am not well versed on gearing but am curious if there would be a benefit by going with a different ratio.

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I've seen 1 Sunrader with that size tire. No lift, no spacers just a regular Toyota model. I told him he needed to change them because it could cause a blow out and he ignored me.  Never heard of any tire emergencies from him and he was active on the groups for a while.

Linda S 

Just emailed the man who had those huge tires. He's a member of this group but hasn't been active lately.

Be good to hear from the guy who had them. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anybody know where I can purchase replacement Weep Hole Covers for my Sunrader? The replacement ones sold by a forum member will not fit. The total width of the weep hole is 1 1/2" for the clips and the total width of the current covers are 2".

 

 

wh1.jpeg

wh2.jpeg

wh3.jpeg

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Thank you, Linda. I have reached out to the company that you provided. I'm not sure why I seem to have such odd ball windows:mellow:

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  • 1 month later...

Hello All,

 

I have a few more questions if you don't mind. Thanks in advance!

 

1) Can somebody tell me what the lug nut sizes are for the front and rear wheels of the Nissan?

 

2) Has anybody had success with painting the ceiling? If so, what product and method have you used?

ceiling.jpg.8ff8c7f859b204de82146b7b7ab77d52.jpg

 

3) Are my vinyl decals beyond repair? If they are, do you have any suggestions on how to remove them and possibly replace them?

decal.jpeg.efd27f7f0aa5f65cc33f3fcc93740acd.jpeg

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the advice everyone. Hopefully I will have some nice before and after pics by the end of Summer to share.

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Lug wrench. The front is 21mm which should be easy to find. The rear is a huge 27mm lug wrench. If you need one try searching for a Land Rover lug wrench on eBay but check the size. Some not all Land Rovers used that size

Linda S

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6 hours ago, linda s said:

Lug wrench. The front is 21mm which should be easy to find. The rear is a huge 27mm lug wrench. If you need one try searching for a Land Rover lug wrench on eBay but check the size. Some not all Land Rovers used that size

Linda S

Thank you Linda.

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Hello All, I have even more questions :)

 

  • The vent for my stove is really noisy. When the wind blows or when I'm driving the flap inside of the vent squeaks and rattles. Is there a way to address the noise or is there a direct replacement that would help?

 

IMG_20230117_124552.jpg.a451727ade58d89c1e02aa478259f625.jpg

 

Some of my cabinet latches aren't working too well and the cabinets pop open while driving. I cannot seem to find a direct replacement online and am wondering if anyone knows where to get them or if the ones in the third picture will work as a replacement?

IMG_20230401_145722.jpg.1347dcb4ed283d6dbc07aa40bf63e4a9.jpgIMG_20230401_145727.jpg.9522dde0b473e091f0a1ce07dd145130.jpglatch3.jpeg.91620b95892805ae685691cc8e7430c3.jpeg

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I don't know how much aggravation you will put up with to fix your problem, but this vent cover has 2 locking arms that will flip down and lock the cover when traveling.

https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Exhaust-Motorhome-Trailer-Include/dp/B083HYG743/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25LYFY7EHYWGM&keywords=rv+stove+vent+cover+replacement&qid=1680631703&sprefix=rv+stove%2Caps%2C227&sr=8-3 

 

Cabinet door catch...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/search?pageSize=24&startIndex=24&query=cabinet+door+catch

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