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I have an 86/87 Sun Land Cruiser that needs a new fuel pump and I’m totally confused as to what I’m supposed to order. I figured y’all would be able to know by looking at it, because I can’t tell from the pics on rockauto. 
 

thanks y’all

 

E7FA4C7A-1690-4A92-8F5B-D4358F2AB556.jpeg

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Factory part number is Toyota 23220-16190

Too big of a job to buy the cheapest. Here are a few from Rock Auto that match the part interchange numbers,

More Information for US MOTOR WORKS USEP8023 (rockauto.com)

More Information for DELPHI FE0486 (rockauto.com) Does not include strainer which is required

More Information for CARTER P72165 (rockauto.com)

More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1520919 (rockauto.com) The most expensive but what I would buy

Your going to need a bracket gasket too. some of these have them but some don't. Be careful pulling that bracket out. 

Lots of other stuff connected to it that you need like your fuel tank gauge sensor

Linda S

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A couple hints. In my Mini Cruiser I spent a bit measuring, remeasuring, then measured again and popped 6” hole saw through the floor. It ended up underneath my dining table. Per someone here’s recommendation, I then used a marine access hatch to seal it back up.  Now it takes about 15 minutes to change out a fuel pump. 
 

Why?  Methanol kills our pumps. So sitting there with old gas will take out an otherwise good fuel pump. 
 

I did use a Bosch file pump, it wasn’t cheap. Between the pump, holesaw, and hatch I probably was into it for $300. (MUCH LESS than paying a shop.) But now a cheap $30 Amazon spare can go into the emergency kit. 


Preventative maintenance if your rv will sit unused for a while like most of us, then fill up with rec fuel before it is parked. (Run the old out first.)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

YMMV, literally.  (I only got 32k out of my original fuel pump.)   

 

But let me add a couple alternative points to this conversation.  Linda, your scenario of still running on original fuel pumps, is kinda irrelevant.  Morbo's original pump is already dead.  The only way to get an original fuel pump, is to go get a used one out of another vehicle and hope it is still original.  That would be silly.  The quality of new parts these days is HORRIBLE.  With the supply chain issues in the past couple years, quality has gone down even more too.

 

Even a brand new Bosch fuel pump, while WAY better than the Amazon Chiniseum one, is still nowhere NEAR the quality of the original ones.  I have sen plenty of brand new fuel pumps fail within 1-2 years.  Even the better quality ones.  In fact we are on fuel pump three in the bosses truck in only 3-4 months.  He has a brand new gas tank, and a high dollar "quality" fuel pump.  I have noticed there seems to be a 'burn in" or break in period for new pumps.  After they have passed the 2yr mark, I rarely see them come back.  

 

But I did mine back in 2019 before the quality went WAY down the drain, and I was still concerned enough to make it an easier job to do.  There was another reason I took that approach with the access hole.  I had parked my Mini in my second driveway when the pump went out.  It is dirt/gravel.  So I couldn't lift it up safely, or high enough to drop the tank.  

 

Yes, we do have a drain plug!  A super cool thing, and I will probably be using it on my new Toy in the next few days.  Its fuel pump died tonight.  LOL...  But before I drop the tank, I will be checking to see if that one has an access panel!  Heh, nope...  And the first video that comes up on replacing the pump, he suggests cutting a hole.  His truck had broken down in a hospital parking lot, and he couldn't drop the tank there.  The main reason I took that approach on my Mini Cruiser, accessibility in any situation.  And it is easy enough to do that popping in a cheap local parts house pump, or even having a cheap Amazon pump on hand, isn't a big deal.     

 

You can see into the tank really well to inspect it on my (old, now sold) Mini.  Obviously you can't slosh the tank back and forth like you could if it was dropped out.  But you could easily rinse the tank out from the access hole and drain out the bottom.  With gas or another appropriate cleaner.  

 

I won't be cutting holes in my 4Runner to do the pump though.  First off it is pretty high up and I can probably drop the rank without even putting it on ramps or jack stands.  And there is no clean way to do it, it really would be a hack job on that truck.  Plus it is easy to get it towed to my shop if need be.    

 

That is my last "selling point" lol!  Our RV's (usually) fall into requiring special RV towing.  Most tow places won't put them onto a flatbed even if they had somebody smart enough that can.  While everyone should have AAA RV Towing, or Good Sam's, or both even, if you can eliminate the need for a tow and quickly repair it on site, heck yeah!      

 
Dropping the tank is usually going to be the better option.  But on some of these Toyota RV's an access hole can be made cleanly and it can be a smart way to approach the repair.  If you do though, make SURE to clean off the top of the tank before opening it up.  You have to do this when you drop the tank too, but in that case it is easier to accomplish.  

 

Either approach is good. Both have positives and negatives.  And a 6" holesaw is not cheap...   But the $300 or so I spent on pump, holesaw, and access panel cover was less than a tow.  

 

Last thought/comment.  Yes debris is the worst culprit and killer of pumps.  But old gas with methanol is also pretty bad for them.  Anyways, just another idea worth considering that will work on some of our vehicles.  It isn't for everyone and it does take some effort to initially setup.       

 

            

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  • 3 months later...

Got a new pump and mount. Had to cut a line to get the tank out and now I’m stuck. This (pictured) is my current hold up. I can’t get it to turn at all and I’m wondering what can be done. 

IMG_9870.jpeg

Edited by MorboTheDMVclerk-DestroyerofDays
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i would soak it in penetrating oil then using a line(flair nut) wrench het the bigger part with a torch .  a few smacks with a hammer on the big part wouldn't hurt either

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yea you might need a hammer to get the line wrench on.  if there is room you could cu the line near the nut, get a new nut then double flair 

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depends on how you want to do it.  if the line has a connection not to far away you could just unscrew the fittings and put in a new section.  

   if you need to cut some out you will need a tube cutter and a flairing tool( can be rented for free from orileys or other parts store).  take some time to practice making the double flairs.

  parts stores carry an assortment of lines with fittings.  you will need a coupler also

  flair nut wrenches will go along way to keep from rounding the fittings

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p.s. thats a strange looking fuel pump.  did it have wires?

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5 hours ago, extech said:

p.s. thats a strange looking fuel pump.  did it have wires?

That’s not the pump.

 It’s a junction between the rubber hose (right) that connects to the pump mount and the fuel line (left) that goes up to the engine

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are you asking about the part bolted to the tank or the flex line coming off of it

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15 minutes ago, linda s said:

 

This sht isn't cheap. Making your own is starting to sound attractive. 

Linda S

that’s what I’m saying. I purchased the pump you suggested and it was only $22 more than this hose.

 

 

do I just get generic rubber hose and some female fittings for the ends? 

Edited by MorboTheDMVclerk-DestroyerofDays
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needs to be fuel hose and pressure rated.  don't know the thread or angle of connection.  A/N is 37deg, others are 45deg

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make Shure it for fuel injection high pressure use.  not common  low pressure carb hose. and the clamps can be different to.

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Show me. Might help to hit the hardware store and buy a bunch of nuts or bolts if it screws in, different sizes and threads. Once you know that it is way easier to search.

Search the size, male or female then fuel line fitting. Something will come up

Linda S

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Ebay

Metric M14 M14X1.5 Female to 3/8" Hose ID Barb Fitting Adapter Fuel Water L-71 | eBay

Amazon

Metric M14 M14X1.5 Female to 3/8" Hose ID Barb Fitting Adapter Fuel Water L-71 | eBay

I would show exactly what you need at a local auto parts store. NAPA seems to be the best but others might have it.

This one at NAPA is 1/16 narrower at the hose but a clamp should take care of that.

M14-1.5 Fuel Line Fitting | NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

Linda S

Looks like a brand new pump hanger. Good choice

 

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none of those will work. notice the hanger fitting is for a bubble flair. the ones shown are female flair.

 you are correct tho that taking it to napa is the way to go

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these image.jpeg.cbb9499899c3adf25be574815097632e.jpegare from my injection test equipment. the one with the outside threads is like the holder, the other is what the flex line ends will look like

image.jpeg

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