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I have an 86/87 Sun Land Cruiser that needs a new fuel pump and I’m totally confused as to what I’m supposed to order. I figured y’all would be able to know by looking at it, because I can’t tell from the pics on rockauto. 

thanks y’all



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Factory part number is Toyota 23220-16190

Too big of a job to buy the cheapest. Here are a few from Rock Auto that match the part interchange numbers,

More Information for US MOTOR WORKS USEP8023 (rockauto.com)

More Information for DELPHI FE0486 (rockauto.com) Does not include strainer which is required

More Information for CARTER P72165 (rockauto.com)

More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1520919 (rockauto.com) The most expensive but what I would buy

Your going to need a bracket gasket too. some of these have them but some don't. Be careful pulling that bracket out. 

Lots of other stuff connected to it that you need like your fuel tank gauge sensor

Linda S

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A couple hints. In my Mini Cruiser I spent a bit measuring, remeasuring, then measured again and popped 6” hole saw through the floor. It ended up underneath my dining table. Per someone here’s recommendation, I then used a marine access hatch to seal it back up.  Now it takes about 15 minutes to change out a fuel pump. 

Why?  Methanol kills our pumps. So sitting there with old gas will take out an otherwise good fuel pump. 

I did use a Bosch file pump, it wasn’t cheap. Between the pump, holesaw, and hatch I probably was into it for $300. (MUCH LESS than paying a shop.) But now a cheap $30 Amazon spare can go into the emergency kit. 

Preventative maintenance if your rv will sit unused for a while like most of us, then fill up with rec fuel before it is parked. (Run the old out first.)


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A lot of work for something that really doesn't need to be done much. My Sunraders are both running on original fuel pumps and they both have sat for years at times. Never had a problem. 

Linda S

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I agree Linda. additionally it's nice to pull the tank completely for inspection and cleaning. debri in the tank is often the cause for failure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

YMMV, literally.  (I only got 32k out of my original fuel pump.)   


But let me add a couple alternative points to this conversation.  Linda, your scenario of still running on original fuel pumps, is kinda irrelevant.  Morbo's original pump is already dead.  The only way to get an original fuel pump, is to go get a used one out of another vehicle and hope it is still original.  That would be silly.  The quality of new parts these days is HORRIBLE.  With the supply chain issues in the past couple years, quality has gone down even more too.


Even a brand new Bosch fuel pump, while WAY better than the Amazon Chiniseum one, is still nowhere NEAR the quality of the original ones.  I have sen plenty of brand new fuel pumps fail within 1-2 years.  Even the better quality ones.  In fact we are on fuel pump three in the bosses truck in only 3-4 months.  He has a brand new gas tank, and a high dollar "quality" fuel pump.  I have noticed there seems to be a 'burn in" or break in period for new pumps.  After they have passed the 2yr mark, I rarely see them come back.  


But I did mine back in 2019 before the quality went WAY down the drain, and I was still concerned enough to make it an easier job to do.  There was another reason I took that approach with the access hole.  I had parked my Mini in my second driveway when the pump went out.  It is dirt/gravel.  So I couldn't lift it up safely, or high enough to drop the tank.  


Yes, we do have a drain plug!  A super cool thing, and I will probably be using it on my new Toy in the next few days.  Its fuel pump died tonight.  LOL...  But before I drop the tank, I will be checking to see if that one has an access panel!  Heh, nope...  And the first video that comes up on replacing the pump, he suggests cutting a hole.  His truck had broken down in a hospital parking lot, and he couldn't drop the tank there.  The main reason I took that approach on my Mini Cruiser, accessibility in any situation.  And it is easy enough to do that popping in a cheap local parts house pump, or even having a cheap Amazon pump on hand, isn't a big deal.     


You can see into the tank really well to inspect it on my (old, now sold) Mini.  Obviously you can't slosh the tank back and forth like you could if it was dropped out.  But you could easily rinse the tank out from the access hole and drain out the bottom.  With gas or another appropriate cleaner.  


I won't be cutting holes in my 4Runner to do the pump though.  First off it is pretty high up and I can probably drop the rank without even putting it on ramps or jack stands.  And there is no clean way to do it, it really would be a hack job on that truck.  Plus it is easy to get it towed to my shop if need be.    


That is my last "selling point" lol!  Our RV's (usually) fall into requiring special RV towing.  Most tow places won't put them onto a flatbed even if they had somebody smart enough that can.  While everyone should have AAA RV Towing, or Good Sam's, or both even, if you can eliminate the need for a tow and quickly repair it on site, heck yeah!      

Dropping the tank is usually going to be the better option.  But on some of these Toyota RV's an access hole can be made cleanly and it can be a smart way to approach the repair.  If you do though, make SURE to clean off the top of the tank before opening it up.  You have to do this when you drop the tank too, but in that case it is easier to accomplish.  


Either approach is good. Both have positives and negatives.  And a 6" holesaw is not cheap...   But the $300 or so I spent on pump, holesaw, and access panel cover was less than a tow.  


Last thought/comment.  Yes debris is the worst culprit and killer of pumps.  But old gas with methanol is also pretty bad for them.  Anyways, just another idea worth considering that will work on some of our vehicles.  It isn't for everyone and it does take some effort to initially setup.       



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