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Roof Insulation thoughts? Mini Cruiser


thewanderlustking

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This is the final piece to the whole "roof puzzle" I am tackling.  

 

Is there any benefit from using US Energy Products Reflextix (or similar) between my aluminum roof skin and the foam insulation?  I am probably going to utilize the blue or pink styrofoam  underneath that.  This is much easier to work with than the white styrofoam it came with from the factory...  And then a layer of luan or corian (or some other plastic) for the ceiling.   

 

The Reflextix could also be used as a barrier between the aluminum skin and the steel or wood braces.  I would also paint the steel framework for the AC unit with something like Por15.  Give it every chance possible so it outlasts me.  

 

It seems like there are definite levels of quality to this stuff and that the US Energy Producs is probably upper tier there.  It isn't cheap, but not too expensive either.  Just enough so that if it ins't going to make a difference, then not worth the extra cost and effort.  But if it makes even a little increase in my insulation, it is worth the other possible benefits of separating the aluminum from the steel.

 

I also think as a moisture barrier, it could be useful.  But it isn't going to be a perfect solution there as I am only going to put it in the areas I take down and fully redo.  Eventually it might all end up redone, but not for now.  

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Reflextix is good stuff, it's a bit of insulation and a heat reflector, with a lot of the heat coming in through the roof it's a good plan.

Also while you at the reflextix thing, remove the front seats and carpet. A single layer of reflextix everywhere, a double layer over the transmission and under the driver's seat (cat converter and exhaust,  lots of heat) then reinstall the carpet and seats.

This is a personal thing, I raised the driver seat 1" or so. Makes getting in a bit harder but helps eliminate the driving a pillbox effect

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Cool so the Reflectix sounds like a good plan then, sweet!  


I don’t know if I need my seat up higher?  While I haven’t spent long periods of time behind the wheel, the short trips I have taken felt comfortable. I’m 5’11”. 
 

I have seen the “nice seat lift kits” on one of my sites I used to frequent for VW parts or something. But in reality longer bolts and a stack of washers accomplishes the same thing….  Cheaply. 
 

How did you do yours???

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Full on John Deere farmer mode. Longer bolts and 2ea 1/2"x2" pipe nipples cut in half. 

PS I'm 5'8"

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So I was reading through and studying all the pictures in the thread Linda posted up for me referencing the roof bracing, and noticed that CrogDog had done the very same thing here with Reflctix.  He took it about 20 steps further and used it everywhere since he had the whole thing apart.  

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  • 1 month later...

Alright, I am not an expert on the whole R-value thing....  I have the roof coating on now.  It has some sort of reflective properties to add to the mix.  The "Henry 887" stuff.  I am probably going to go with the reflectix layer, but I am thinking underneath the foam.  So Henry 887, old EPDM layer, aluminum roof skin, 3m spray glue to attach 1" foam, reflectix, then finally some sort of PVC decorative panel for the inside ceiling skin.  

 

I saw a white "cracked ice" panels when I went hunting online at my local Home Depot.  I want to look at in person, but I think it would work nicely to add some modernization and interest, without losing the overall vintage vibe

 

I plan on using 1" foam and have two options.  RTech is a white "styrofoam" with an R value of 3.85.  It is only $16 a sheet.  The back half that I am not tearing into (yet) and the overcab front nose appear to already be using this.  

 

I like the price.  The material isn't hard to cut, but it is messy to work with.  I don't know what other drawbacks it has.  I suspect it might be easier to glue to the aluminum outer skin.  

 

The other option is FOAMULAR 150 by Owens Corning with an R5 value.  It is $29 a sheet.  Not as budget fresindly, but not expensive either.  I think it is going to be easier to cut, and much less messy.   This is what was there.  Ceiling repairs had been done some time recently before I got it.  There were places where the glue still wasn't fully dried 2-3+ years later.  Or was gooey from moisture, who knows.  I am not sure what the P.I. had used to glue it up.  

 

Is there any real reason to spend the extra on the Foamular R5 stuff?  Is R5 going to make a big differance over R3.85? 

 

From what I can see, the whole house shell uses the white Styrofoam just like the RTech stuff.  I think it is going to be a little to work with and glue up.  Much messier.  Probably a little weaker than the Ownes Corning stuff.  More flexible perhaps.

 

I am just trying to get thoughts on this and any experience you guys have had on the two options.  I am only goign to need 1-2 sheets now, and maybe a couple more later.  Not enough where the cost is a big factor.  If the cheaper stuff is good enough insulation value, and easier to work with, sold.  If the better stuff is easier to work with, sold.            

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I am REALLY liking this one!  AP Foil 3/4' R-5 Foil Faced Polyisocyanurate Foam I like that it is slightly thinner at the 3/' inch, but has the R5 value. And it will defiantly be stronger than the white styrofoam for sure.  I probably need to go measure my beam thickness to be 100% sure what was in there, and then just go to HD and look in person...  I want to look at the PVC panels anyways.    

 

Stronger is a better plan.  I have plenty of ways to cut it other than just a simple utility knife too, so that's not an issue.    

Edited by thewanderlustking
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