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Blown Head Gasket - Looking for advice on options


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Hey Everyone,

 

So I was driving through Wyoming when the head gasket went out on my rig. I have a 1985 Sunrader with a 22re with 85,000 miles on it. I'm looking for some advice on what to do going forward. Since doing a head gasket is such a big job and requires so much labor I'm wondering if it's worth just having the motor rebuilt at this point? Or potentially have a new motor installed?

 

The motor seemed decent before the head gasket blew, I had tested the compression maybe a year ago and it was at 135-140psi across all cylinders. But she did get extremely hot and was out of coolant when the gasket blew and I got it pulled over, I'm slightly concerned about warped/cracked head although I was able to limp it to a shop after it cooled down and I refilled the radiator. 

 

I'm wondering if I should be looking into rebuild/replacement options or if i should just have the shop do the head gasket, check everything else out while in there, replace what's worn out and move on with the motor I've got. I'm on the fence with this decision and would love some advice on the matter if anyone's got some. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

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Just fix the head gasket. If you pulled over quickly the engine is probably fine. A good machine shop will grind the head flat and it's 

actually not a huge job. The 22re's are easy to get to and work on. Make sure they clear the fluid ports because they can clog and might have caused the failure in the first place.

Linda S

A new head is going to be China made and possibly not as good as what you've got. 

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85K is low mileage for your engine. 22R blocks are pretty sturdy. My vote is to have the shop pull the head, if no warping or valve issues replace the head gasket. Even if you need a replacement head the shortblock should be fine. Many times the head with the intake and exhaust manifold still attached  can be removed as a single unit. Makes head gasket changes a straight forward deal.

I changed the head gasket on my 20R in my driveway.

Edited by fred heath
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if it blew a head gasket, there's a reason. once you replace the gasket you need to find the root cause.

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I thought the reason was the different metals between head and block and old felt gaskets that don't work well to compensate the different expansion/contractions of the two metals. My understanding was the MLS gasket solves this issue; is there something else you may be referring to? 

 

If i'm having the head gasket done seems like it makes sense to do the timing chain now as well? I don't think it's ever been replaced so seems like a good time for a new chain and steel guides? Are there any other things I should maybe consider while I'm in there? 

 

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions!! 

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Crank oil seal. Common fail item. Easy if you’re doing the timing chain.

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normally head gaskets don't blow from corrosion(electrolosis)unless the cooling system has been severly ignored.  usually caused by overheating from another system.   

   dont forget the oil pump seals.  very common leak

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this is a great time to do the chain. the head needs to be off to do it correctly

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In full shade tree mechanic mode you can change the headgasket without removing the timing cover and timing chain. Should you????

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43 minutes ago, JaySam said:

Is that the seal right behind the crankshaft pulley? Cause I just did that with a new pulley last week 

Yes. You’re good.👍

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New chain and guides can’t hurt. Toughest part of changing the timing chain is removing the crank pulley. You’ve already had that apart so should be easy to remove again.

I subscribe to the belief of changing/replacing any common wear items if the opportunity presents itself.

It will be much easier to do it now while the heads off rather than having to do it at a later date. I’ve changed things like alternators and regulators just because I didn’t know the actual age, even though they worked fine. Gives me peace of mind when doing those cross country trips. Better than dealing with it on the side of the highway. Places like auto zone and advanced auto offer lifetime free replacement. No hidden expense for a future failure.

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if you plan on keeping it forever there are kits available to convert it to double row timing chain. expensive insurance

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Yeah I figure if i'm going to get the head gasket done it's time to do the other routine maintenence that will be needed at some point anyways, so now I'm thinking of having the timing chain, oil pump and water pump done as well. Although maybe the oil pump is overkill? What's a usual lifespan on one of those? Water pump and oil pump I could also do myself at some point down the road. 

 

Is the dual row upgrade worth it if I'm replacing the plastic guides to metal? Is it mostly helping prevent the chain stretch and slap that happens with a single row? I guess I'm not clear on why upgrading to dual row is necessary but would love to learn

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Factory oil pump should be fine. Those engines have been known to run over 300K miles. Water pump is external and easy to replace. Can save for later or change it now. With 85K miles the water pump would probably be a good thing to change while everything is torn apart. Budget permitting.

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Ok good to know, thanks for the advice and info Fred! I'll probably have them do a water pump even though I can do it myself later, and hold off on a oil pump for now.

 

Are there other components or parts that I should have them check while we're this deep into the motor? 

 

Budget is a concern but less so than making sure I do things right

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We think the same way. Think everything else is good or it can wait until later.

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Do the chain and guides mind you the guides are coated they are not steel on steel or they wouldn't last a month they are good to 150K so by the time you need to do it again you would need a major over haul any way no sense changing to a double roller there are a lot of other parts you would need other than just the chain to convert it. The oil pump is part of the chain cover it is the first thing that sees oil I have never seen a bad one.

 

 

Edited by Maineah
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Ok yeah that's kinda what I thought but good to know, thanks for the info and help Maineah.

 

I think as long as the motor seems ok I'll have them do the head gasket, machine the head, timing chain, guides and potentially cover if it's been worn down and a water pump. 

 

Thanks everyone for the advice and knowledge, I'm feeling much better than I was a few days ago lol. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you want to be safe, buy an oem (Toyota dealer) thermostat. I have found the hard way that there definitely is a difference between the $4 Stant ones, and one that was made for the specific car/engine.

Edited by Ssunrader
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Sometimes the 22re has an erratic temperature response. Toyota developed a special 2 stage thermostat to help stabilize things. Toyota# 90916-03070

$$$ vs Stant

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