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I know there have been a lot of posts on this topic. I have some specific entry level questions (I have a 1991 v6 Sunrader 21') as I need to do something to increase my speed going over gravel forest service roads (I can go about 2 mph, seriously). I know there have been no repairs/upgrades/maintenance to my Sunrader's suspension since she was born in 1991:

1. Front shocks - what should I get?

2. Back shocks - I have air bellows that seem to hold air. I was going to get them "serviced". Should I upgrade them?

3. Since I have rear air bellows, I also have shocks back there, right? If yes, what should I get?

4. Stupid question for sure - struts versus shocks, what do I have?

5. How difficult is the shock install - I have a million things going on and don't need another project. If I have someone install them, any ideas on best shop - toyota dealership, tire shop, etc?

6. Can I get my Sunrader lifted to allow for a tad more clearance?

Thank You Everyone - I know I could *try* and answer these myself, but there is way too much knowledge in this group to think I could answer these better than this crowd!

Kristen

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Plenty of info out there, like you noted, but I'll take a quick stab since my rig is also a 91...

  1. Front shocks: KYB KG5458 (KYB is not the gold standard in suspension, but these are quite good and also affordable)
  2. Rear shocks: KYB KG5438
  3. Air bellows/bags: they don't really need servicing—they either hold air or they don't. In terms of replacement if they are punctured or leaking, lots of people like the AirLift 57113 LoadLifter 5000 package.
  4. You have shocks: two in front, two in back
  5. The shock installation, in my opinion, is just about the easiest (and biggest bang-for-the-buck) improvement that can be done on these 30+ year-old vehicles. 
  6. You probably could find somebody to do a lift, but most would advise against it. I'm sure others will chime in on this. (Working air bags and properly set torsion bars might just get you a few inches of clearance.)

In my experience, worn out rear-suspension bushings will also contribute to a very harsh ride.

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step 1 new shocks per above

step 2 Replace rear spring bushings (3 sets per spring) With worn bushings the spring ends bang up and down on the bolts. The spring should flex.

step 3 Replace rear springs, OLD MAN EMU seems to be the preferred source, CSR010R or CSR020R depending on things 

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Thank you guys so much for the great info!! I could do the shock replacement myself,but replacing the springs sounds a bit more involved - or is that something pretty simple?

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Lets say shocks are 1x hard, bushings are 2x. Changing the springs is 3x. 

Bushings are 3/8" tool stuff and lots of penetrating oil due to corroded fittings. Bushings are 80% of doing the springs. There is some 1/2" tool stuff, like the ubolts 

A BFH, Floor jacks and Jack stands are a requirement.

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What is a BFH - big f'n hammer? I have the rest of the tools. It is oddly clean under there. I can start spraying the bolts and watching YouTube videos. I may just stick with the shocks for now. They look  like they are a billion years old. Any torque requirements on the new shocks, or just crank the bolts?  

I really appreciate everyone's knowledge and experience here!

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Big Fing Hammer😁 Old rusty car repair mechanic talk

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Rear shocks, do I need to take the tires off? I just watched a YouTube video where the guy did NOT take the rear tires off. He just inflated the air bellows, removed the shock, put the new one on at the top, the deflated the bellows until the holes matched up. I would prefer to go simple - can I do this without taking the tires off?? Thanks Again!

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Thanks Linda - I will pop the tires off. Better to be safe than smushed underneath. 

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While you have the wheels off to do the shocks, look at the springs, bushings and shackle bolts. 

To do the bushings you need to jack up both sides of the rv. Use a rated jack stand ahead of the front of the spring mount. Put the jack under the axle and unbolt one end of one spring and lower the axle. Use the BFH and vise grips to remove the old bushings. Note some bushings have a steel sleeve inside some have a steel adapter ring on the outside. It depends on your original and your replacement.

Warning only do one at a time, so you have a sample of how it goes back together. 

There are longer rear shackles available from a car parts store if you want to raise  the rear end a little.

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