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New owner 83 sunrader


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1 hour ago, linda s said:

Yes I see now. The site I originally looked at made it sound like a complete set not just one. Never mind

Linda S

It may be best to get toyota. Its probably beck arnley making both 

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Posted (edited)
On 8/16/2022 at 3:55 PM, linda s said:

Yes I see now. The site I originally looked at made it sound like a complete set not just one. Never mind

Linda S

I did the same 

 

So man, this truck needs one of everything. Someone just creeped this thing along for years 

 

First and foremost thanks for the support. I rewired my starting battery as fred suggested. I just cut out all the connections, soldered two wires on with ring terminals. It seems to be important to separate charging circuit from ignition, so I just did each on their own ring terminal. 
 

I have been researching this transmission whining on deceleration and unfortunately I think I have to split the case. 
 

I found a transmission for $200 down south. 
 

I found a rebuilt one locally for $800. 
 

I found a parts truck in ukiah which is 6 hours away. It looks like a 92. Calling to see if its a 4 speed or 5 speed. He wants $200. It needs a clutch, and has no title. So I would probably take the engine and tranny out and sell it for $200. If it is a 5 speed, can I use its driveshaft, slave and master and cross member? My cross member looks welded in. I do have a torch, welder etc. 
 

I also noticed the rear bearing on the output shaft is only $20 from rock auto. So for the essence of money I may just pull it apart and see if thats all I need. 
 

I rebuilt the 5 speed in my nissan. With the right info its not hard. 
 

Getting back home sucks. Lol. Ive had to work constantly and I am fixing my assistants car as he did all the heavy lifting on this rv build. 
 

havent told him yet that we need to pull the tranny again. Waiting till I smog his civic. 

Edited by Lucas602
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Posted (edited)

Ok. Ive gone round and round on direction. And I think I am going TDI swap. 
 

the 3.0 diesel just isnt appealing. Timing belt, piston crack issues. Not great fuel consumption. And you need parts and are out of luck for weeks. 
 

The 2.8 looks amazing. For $20k. I found one in UK for $5k but no ecu or drivetrain. And requires a rocket scientist to work on 

 

Im finding 1.9 tdi motors for $1000 with harness and ecu. Adapters to a w56 transmission for $500. And there are mechanics and parts all over the US. LKQ has long blocks for $600. I could pull into any junkyard in america and get swapped for $1000 probably if the motor were to go 
 

Will you all be mad if I put a VW motor in? 

Edited by Lucas602
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I always said if I hit the lotto I’d go with the Cummins 2.8 TD. Package is as ‘turnkey’ as it gets.

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Hold on to you wallet though they run about 9 grand!

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There is a detailed thread about a TDI swap on this site somewhere. You're going to need to register it in another state, but I loved it. Considered doing it to mine. I live in California but no smog as long as I don't try to sell it.

Found it

Sunrader tdi swap - Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc. - Toyota Motorhome Discussion Board

Linda S

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1 hour ago, fred heath said:

I always said if I hit the lotto I’d go with the Cummins 2.8 TD. Package is as ‘turnkey’ as it gets.

I am a cummins guy. Ill check it out. With my slow approach maybe I can find one. 
 

check out my jack 

 

and in regard to linda, my 83 could have been originally equipped as a diesel so if I am not mistaken, I can title it as a diesel with a statement of facts form. 
 

I have to deal with the ref on another project so will ask. 
 

 

image.jpg

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The rules are it must have been switched to an engine the same make and same year or newer model. All smog equipment must be switched from the new engine. Switching between brands is not allowed. 

Linda S

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1 hour ago, Lucas602 said:

I am a cummins guy. Ill check it out. With my slow approach maybe I can find one. 
 

check out my jack 

 

and in regard to linda, my 83 could have been originally equipped as a diesel so if I am not mistaken, I can title it as a diesel with a statement of facts form. 
 

I have to deal with the ref on another project so will ask. 
 

 

image.jpg

 

I am a cummins guy. Ill check it out. With my slow approach maybe I can find one.
 


I’m running a Detroit 353 in my 1987 YJ.

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On 8/22/2022 at 12:03 PM, fred heath said:

 

I am a cummins guy. Ill check it out. With my slow approach maybe I can find one.
 


I’m running a Detroit 353 in my 1987 YJ.

Thats awesome! 
 

 

On 8/22/2022 at 11:40 AM, linda s said:

The rules are it must have been switched to an engine the same make and same year or newer model. All smog equipment must be switched from the new engine. Switching between brands is not allowed. 

Linda S

yah. I may need the original to get it titled. Ill keep you updated on the process 

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  • 1 month later...

Ok well back to reality, I think I am going to keep it simple for now and get the basis covered. Work is busy and we probably will just do some weekend trips. 
 

punch list 

 

1. Rebuild carb 

2. Head gasket 

3. Rear shock mounts and parking brake 

4. LED taillights. 

 

For the parking brake I may go back to that truck for its hardware vs switching my parking brake cable from my old axle. 
 

or try and swap the old cables over

 

the new axle cables are way longer. I may be able to just shorten the cable. 
 

For shock mounts I think I am going to do these and set it behind the axle, with the shock straight up and down, bolt parallel to the axle tube. My understanding is this is the best for full up and down articulation vs, side to side. It will give the strongest effect of the shock being vertical, and helps with the axle moving forward and back while articulating. 
 

for a 4x4 that goes off road you want the opposite. Perpendicular and shock off to the side for most travel. 
 

https://barnes4wd.com/products/axle-tube-shock-bracket-pair

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  • 1 month later...
On 8/3/2022 at 10:27 AM, linda s said:

Maybe this will help. Same year truck

Toyota 22r carburetor float adjustment and check - YouTube

Linda S

Thank you! 
 

Ok been doing some short trips around my area. Kinda working a lot. And did some head gaskets on a 2004 silverado. Really like that LS1 platform. 
 

I am currently rebuilding the carburetor on the RV. And building a permanent bed frame. I copied my couch bed frame and I have a twin sized bunk bed frame I am modifying to work as a couch and slide out into full sized bed. In the back. Will post picks. 
 

For the carb I found this which was helpful.

 

https://bitdrivencircuits.com/Toyota22r_Carburetor/toyota_22r_carburetor_home.html

 

I just numbered my bags the same as the steps. Soaking in berrymans right now. I didnt want an ultrasonic cleaner. 
 

I also couldnt get the main jet out but I dont have a new one anyways. 
 

Someone gave me a low miles carb that sat outside forever. However, once lost, I can look at it for reference. 
 

As its winter. I will probably rebuild it next and carry a spare. Or most likely give to someone in need. 
 

 

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9AE821DE-74C4-4978-BB4D-47387F5F2489.jpeg

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4919999C-1DC5-4597-BF57-3F6668A8AE92.jpeg

9DF3BD87-0805-4A5F-B0DE-ED0FBC342860.jpeg

Edited by Lucas602
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no. 78 in the diagram is a plug over the idle mixture screw. drill a hole in it and screw in a metal screw. pull it out with a pair of dikes

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11 minutes ago, extech said:

no. 78 in the diagram is a plug over the idle mixture screw. drill a hole in it and screw in a metal screw. pull it out with a pair of dikes

I think 78 was gone before I got here. 52 is stuck. 
 

Been meaning to let you know the wheels that were available were in a shady situation and I never made it out there. Lol. 
 

 

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i would leave the main jets alone.  

 more wheels will eventually show up

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50 minutes ago, extech said:

i would leave the main jets alone.  

 more wheels will eventually show up

Its mainly the rubber bits yeah? There was a few more things not in that guide I posted that I realized after and removed, and my kit had the replacement parts. 

 

I keep finding whole trucks in LA. I am headed to orange county wed-sat. 

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Ok I almost past smog. We just did a poke test. Pre-check. My idle was too high and I was running a little lean. CO waayyyy down. So carb rebuild success. Just need to tune and re-poke here locally then go for my star certified smog 

 

One problem I am having is stalling on deceleration. It got better once warmed up. I should probably replace some vacuum lines. 
 

Any ideas though? I am 38 years old so I am not too skilled at carburetors. I grew up building motorcycles but that was mainly jet work. 

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so co is way down. far enough to raise hc?if not, try riching it up and see if it helps the stalling

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Motorcycle world carburetor person here to. Search for air leaks. As you know from motorcycles, carbs are very sensitive and small air leaks are a big deal in tuning. Of course, a thorough jet cleaning (removal and cleaning) may be required if the vehicle has been sitting with fuel in it/ low miles/ a lot of sitting, and replacement of all rubbers/gaskets. 

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14 hours ago, Scott iv said:

Motorcycle world carburetor person here to. Search for air leaks. As you know from motorcycles, carbs are very sensitive and small air leaks are a big deal in tuning. Of course, a thorough jet cleaning (removal and cleaning) may be required if the vehicle has been sitting with fuel in it/ low miles/ a lot of sitting, and replacement of all rubbers/gaskets. 

Cool. Spray carb cleaning and see if idle raises yeah? 

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14 hours ago, extech said:

so co is way down. far enough to raise hc?if not, try riching it up and see if it helps the stalling

Yes! That makes sense. He did say it was running lean, which could be from lean or from exhaust leaks. I don’t fully understand, but I do see the connection with lean and stalling. I am 2.5 turns out now. I was at 3.5 before rebuild. Should I go back to 3.5? I can go tune while hooked up for $20. 

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iwould make use of the analyzer while adjusting.  if you can go richer without raising co you're good.  

  normal combustion results in hc, co, o2, co2.   high co2 results from efficient combustion over 14 is good.

  high hc means there was incomplete combustion- makes o2 go up- fuel went in and didn't get burned because lean mix is hard to light off

   high co is the opposite. too much fuel for the available o2 so some 

instead of co2 you get co  .   comes with no o2 in exhaust

  what you want is low hc and co while keeping co2 up and having some o2 in the sample.   drill a small hole in the pipe after the manifold to probe. you can put a sheet metel screw in when you are done

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

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