Jump to content

New owner 83 sunrader


Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, linda s said:

Maybe this will help. Same year truck

Toyota 22r carburetor float adjustment and check - YouTube

Linda S

Thats the best youtube on it out there for sure. 
 

So I didnt have a beer box but I did have a covid test box. Lol. I cut a strip to 9.8 mm. And I held it the correct orientation. Letting the float hang and pushing up. 
 

The open measurement 48mm, doesnt seem to matter so much as its slightly above the bottom of the float bowl. Mine are probably resting on bottom when all the way down. I doubt they get all the way down. 

 

I ended up tearing the gasket and actually found a carb rebuild kit locally for $50. Its a must have. Everything you will need for a long time. 
 

I got the floats set. Just a hair low. But I am leaving it until after I smog. 
 

I put in a new float plunger. I didnt replace the carrier piece as I couldn’t get it out. I remember now I need to use that impact driver tool. 
 

I put in a new accelerator pump diafram. And cleaned it a few more times. The hard part is going from the top where the mounting surface is for the top hat going down into a barrel. Its a real small hole. The accelerator pump sends volume up, then back down through a real small hole into a shoot into the barrel. I tried a lot of tricks to get compressed air blowing through that hole.

 

Its running really smooth. I hadnt done plug wires but grabbed some last trip. 
 

I havent checked the airgap in the distributor. Kinda like points? I did test the resistance on it and it was within specs. Need to research that later. 
 

now that it runs so well, the idle is super high. I need to set air mixture and idle, and timing. I was just going through the fsm when my buddy showed up. 
 

He knocked out the rear axle like nobody's business. The new one is sitting in on the springs and bolted down. 
 

I think we used the donor u-bolts on my original leafs. I need to cut off the shock mount on one leaf spring pad and weld it to the other side for the shock. 
 

I am using the donor sway bar and the stock sway bar links. I am going to put them in the vise and heat them and bend them 90 degrees to fit the donor sway bar. 
 

parking cable looks fine. The original mount for the hard brake line at the frame was bolted on. The donor has no mount. Need to use my orininal mount. 
 

proportioning valve bolts right up. One day I need to put a manual one. 
 

I am keeping my old third member as a spare, and dreaming on building my v6 donor member with 4.88’s and positraction. 
 

 

256B7EAB-4D6D-4BCE-91B0-79A493BEEAAD.jpeg

477F2EDD-CB1F-415B-A9D8-322C2C4C830A.jpeg

FEAE32E8-A2E5-4D58-B14C-BFD41C866468.jpeg

CE3B7AE8-9A3A-46C5-B247-9A971993AD6A.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Up and running. I have a pesky misfire at idle that I can see with the timing light. I checked resistance in the distributor and its spec. Airgap in spec. 
 

I set my timing right above 6. Putting a new coil and distributor cap on in the morning. The coil tests ok. Not great. 
 

for my read swap, 83 4cyl to 90 v6, here is what I did

 

1. Need parking brake cables off my original axle 

2. Will use original 3rd member. The flange for the v6 housing doesnt fit my driveline. We drilled two bolt holes 

3. I am using the 90 sway bar, and I found some end links for a 2nd gen dodge diesel that will fit. 
4. I am taking my original leaf spring mounts (the plate part the u-bolts bolt to), cutting them down, and welding to the bottom of the axle for shock mounts. I live right near poly performance (fab stuff), but these are in my driveway and DONT cost $45 
 

so tired. We did a clutch too today. Did not surface the flywheel. 
 

 

0F4DA767-55E7-45DA-A813-D891B20504B8.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for missfire.  tight exhaust valve?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its electronic. I can see it not fire with the timing light 

 

new problem, bleeding. Lol. Cant seem to bleed the rear. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the missfire cyclic or random?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was cyclic. 
 

I lit it up to town and she leveled off. The idle is finally normal at 4.5 turns out

 

its in smogging. Someone gross poluted so its star smog. He just called and had to set the timing. Whoops. 
 

She got a little hot. It probably needs a fan clutch. Had autozone set one aside for pickup. 
 

I need to get some taillights working. I have a full setup for a trailer and may just screw them to the bumper. 
 

I think I have some flat spots on the tires. It shook like hell but leveled off. Fedex is delivering the new set as we speak. 
 

and thats it. Get those things working, and hopefully we can hit the road. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I call "a good shakedown"! 😁

 

Yeah my rig was running hot until I replaced the fan clutch, probably the most overlooked thing on these toys.

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you were able to bleed the rear brakes?   you'll need a meter or test light for tail lights. don't count on color codes, and turn and brake lights are a seperate circuit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Yeah I came across an older post on here where you continuously told someone to put in a new master. So I just went and got one 

 

I got a master for a 1990 V6 model also 

 

The old one was puking its guts into the booster   
 

I remember that about the lights. I put a trailer plug on my dads 49 and when you press the brakes the front turn signals light up 

 

So I havent got time to address lights, but Im wondering if the relay is dead. No power to front running lights. 
 

edit: failed smog. I guess I will be rebuilding this whole carburetor. 
 

im never selling this thing 

Edited by Lucas602
Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, Gary_M said:

That's what I call "a good shakedown"! 😁

 

Yeah my rig was running hot until I replaced the fan clutch, probably the most overlooked thing on these toys.

Gary

My last 84 was like that 

 

There isnt a good test for the fan clutch. Spin it when its cold. Is it loose. 
 

its $50 to buy one and its easy to install 

 

fun fact, my original water pump had studs. New one had holes. 
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Sunrader was getting hot for a while, and it wasn't the fan clutch. Was sure the radiator was OK cause I flushed it so thoroughly. Well, I was wrong. There was a big dead zone in the middle. Used thermal gun. Replaced it and never got hot again

Linda S

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did the smog shop give you a print out of the tail pipe numbers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, extech said:

did the smog shop give you a print out of the tail pipe numbers?

Yah. See attached. He said to fully rebuild the carb. I do have a kit. 
 

 

13 hours ago, linda s said:

My Sunrader was getting hot for a while, and it wasn't the fan clutch. Was sure the radiator was OK cause I flushed it so thoroughly. Well, I was wrong. There was a big dead zone in the middle. Used thermal gun. Replaced it and never got hot again

Linda S

 

Will do. I checked the fan when it was hot and it was completely loose

FAD45CBD-B85E-4ADD-949F-AD7E95139B9B.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

co2 at idleshows efficiency is down. o2 at 2.3 means missfire= fuel went in and came back out unused. =high hc. still passed though

cruis c02 is higher= more efficient.  02 very low=not much left over caused by too much fuel. co high resulted from the shortage of o2 .

can't make co2 if there isn't enough o2.  hc very high because of missfire from overly rich condition

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool 

 

He told me to just rebuild the carb. 
 

I think I might put a weber on while I figure that out. 

4 hours ago, extech said:

co2 at idleshows efficiency is down. o2 at 2.3 means missfire= fuel went in and came back out unused. =high hc. still passed though

cruis c02 is higher= more efficient.  02 very low=not much left over caused by too much fuel. co high resulted from the shortage of o2 .

can't make co2 if there isn't enough o2.  hc very high because of missfire from overly rich condition

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Lucas602 said:

Cool 

 

He told me to just rebuild the carb. 
 

I think I might put a weber on while I figure that out. 

 

i have a weber on mine. if you can get a carb approved one with an air filter adapter you can chuck the toy one and have better performance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hotter the engine the tighter the fan clutch becomes. Your description would indicate a bad fan clutch.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohhh I didnt know they made a cal approved one! $450 or so it appears. 
 

So yeah, bad fan clutch. Bad radiator. Good call Linda.

 

An 83 radiator was like $320 and out of stuck. A radiator from a 92 (I picked a random year) was $160 and in stock. As well, it has a built in tranny cooler, which I have seen setup for plumbing water through to heat a tank. 

 

The older truck has a big spout for the bottom hose that also included a port for the heater core return. The new did not, and I noticed notes for the hoses for a 92 “radiator to pipe” and “pipe to motor” so I assume its a separate piece in the newer truck? 


I had got a cut to fit lower hose before and I cut the end 90 off so my hose fit. 
 

So I dug it out if the trash and I cut that big barb off the old radiator. 
 

We are 100 miles from portland. It heats up some. New radiator, water pump, thermostat, and full flush. 
 

the heater wasnt getting hot and I remembered having heater control valve problems on an 87. So I bypassed it

 

As well, I took the thermostat out. Big improvement.
 

I did notice some “stuff” in the old radiator and wonder if its head gasket sealant.
 

The other problem, I hear some grinding when I let off the throttle, going from applying power to engine breaking.
 

I am curious if its that carrier on the driveline. I moved it and it felt loose. As if rubber mounted and not a bearing. 

 

So I need to go look that up. I should now but if I navigate away from here sometimes I loose my draft (iphone 10 on chrome if the developer is watching)

 

 I am in portland for a bit. I could do the head gasket, but I can probably make it home fine. My dad is coming through here going south with an empty trailer if things go wrong. 
 

The grinding is more of a concern. Gonna crawl under there when we arrive and look for heat or play. If its that carrier, maybe I can change it easily. Maybe I need to do all u-joints. 
 

maybe someone has a shop in portland. Ha. 
 

Last thought, these walls flex a lot. And its loud. Which doesnt bother me. But my gf. 
 

Really dreaming about stripping it and building an exoskeleton on the inside (inoskeleton?) and spray foaming it. 
 

I really want to do that and put a 4x4 diesel setup in. 
 

I have a problem. Theres a pile of trucks at home waiting for me to get back and install some heads, motors etc. 
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well getting ready to head home and fixing a few things. I took the top hat back off the carb and cleaned it with chemtool and in absence of a compressor I got a bottle of canned air for computers. Running much better. 
 

It needs a full tear down. Theres a few things I suspect but need a shorter screw driver. 
 

right now its running ok so following my rule of “if its not broke dont fix it” 

 

Going to replace this carrier bearing this morning. They say to pull the whole drive shaft but Im gonna try leaving it in the transmission. 
 

I am ordering parts from rock auto and looking at heater core. Im wondering what people do to add AC. Thus far, I have gotten a lot of parts from the newer series, 1990, and wondering if thats the case with AC. 
 

Regardless, having a lot of fun and loving it. It navigates great through dt portland. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pretty sure to add ac you get the evap case and put it in .the holes for hoses and bolt holes are already there. there is a dummy box where the ac goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So for the 83 model, that nut is 30 mm on the flange you remove from driveline to change carrier bearing. Its easy to do and not pull the driveline off the truck. 

 

And its 2.5 miles to ace hardware. And my electric scooter goes 5 miles. Pro-tip, just buy the socket set that will cover the range the bolt might be in. 
 

The carrier bearing from autozone didnt fit. 
 

at the point of giving up i beat it to death with a hammer and made it fit. I hope they will still refund me. 
 

Noted on AC. Thank you. It appears you want your period specific setup. 
 

So I will watch for one at the junkyards and get everything I can when I find it. 
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/29/2022 at 9:12 PM, Lucas602 said:

Well, went to the junkyard for wheels, came home with an axle 

 

Right on the main row was a dually utility truck. I scored the axle for $600 with 4 wheels 

 

i am converting to 4x4 so I dont want the hubs. And there are 5 more wheels available. 
 

anyone need any? Going back to pickup tomorrow or monday 

 

 

17CD1550-E50F-4DCB-9F76-F6A27F861C64.jpeg

any of those rims still exist? Sent you a message.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...