Get the Full-Float!

[NewSunRader]

Sorry if this an absurd question, or if it’s been asked before. What exactly does it mean “get the Full-Float“? Will any dually full float axle work? I feel like I’ve looked at every forum post and can’t come up with a clear answer. 
 

I’m pretty sure my rig is a 2wd 1980 18’ Sunrader. 
I know I have the bad axle, but not what will work to replace it. 

Any help getting pointed in the right direction is appreciated. 

[linda s]

They mean a Toyota full float the same as in all Toyota motorhomes after 1986. These guys might have one.

Oregon & A to Z Auto Wrecking | Portland, OR (oregonautowrecking.com)

You need the wheels too. Different lug pattern than yours. Cute Sunrader

Linda S

[WME]

OK basic stuff, a normal rear axle has a single bearing on each side and the middle of the tire is centered over the bearing, so the load is on the bearing. When the RV mfg need more weight carry capacity, they added another tire. That fixed the weight problem, but with the add on tire the weight was carried about 5" outboard of the bearing. Every rotation that 5" of leverage flexed the axle and over time many failed and the wheel came off making a mess of things.

The full float axle is a different design. It has 2 bearings per side and offset wheels so that the load is centered between the bearings and the bearings carry all the weight, the axle sees no flex, it just provides power to make things go. Even in the very rare event  of an axle failure the wheels stay on.

All full float axles are the same design. But what matters is the width of the axle, the center to center width of the spring perches and the shock mounts. That eliminates  almost every thing but a Toyota 1 ton axle. 

Some folks with "skills" have put a GM 14 bolt axle on their toyhouse and ran 15" singles  

Edited May 12, 2022 by WME

[fred heath]

Just some observations on my part. Based in your ID plate your rear axle is a standard 7.5” r&p (F292) used on 1/2 ton pickups not the 8” 3/4 ton axle (GO82) normally installed on Toyota cab & chassis’s used for motorhomes.

This could be a blessing in disguise if you cannot locate a Toyota ff rear axle.

Replacement axle shafts are still available from many aftermarket sites and maybe even the dealerships. This could buy you some time to find an upgrade by basically returning your axle to like new. Additionally, you wouldn’t have to change the entire axle, just the shafts. This would remove 40 years worth of fatigue and make a much safer ride.

You will also need new bearings and seals. Some aftermarket sites sell the shafts with the new bearings pressed on and the seal installed. This makes it a 4 bolt ‘plug&play’.

Check with places like rock auto or even a box store for pricing. The 1/2 ton has two different length shafts. Left side and right side. Double check everything before starting a tear down.

[NewSunRader]

Coming back again way later! 
I weighed in with empty water/waste tanks, minimal cargo, and about 20 gals of gas. The total weight was 4600 and rear axle weight was 3300. 
 

still on the 5 lug foolies. Life and finances have put the project on hold, but just about ready to start up again. 
 

Before getting the weight i was leaning towards the gm 14 bolt swap, but could probably keep the weight down and rock Toyota axles single wheel. 
 

 

would greatly appreciate any thoughts and guidance

[NewSunRader]

Started tearing apart the interior. The fridge is too big to fit out the door, and might just barely clears out the back window. It also might fit through the passenger door if i remove the seat. 
 

hard to tell the proper condition of the floor, but I’m pretty set on just pulling the shell off the frame. 

[IdahoDoug]

I got mine out the front passenger door, with the passenger seat removed and help from my son to avoid tearing the driver's seat.  The door's limiter strap has a pin you can easily pop out to open the door much wider if I recall.  Of course, have some way of preventing it overextending and damaging the door or fender rear edge.  I was also able to put a significantly larger fridge back in this same way.   Check out my thread in the DIY section - 3 months from finishing a total gut and rebuild. Best.

[NewSunRader]

Thanks! I have several of the build forums up and have been trying my best lol most of the floor is exposed. Just have roof and walls left on tear down. Will hopefully have some pictures of what i got going soon 

[NewSunRader]

It looks like the two nuts holding the toilet are too rusty, or whatever they are attached to is rotted out. I can’t get the nut and bolt to behave. They just wanna keep turning together. I can’t see or feel anything on the Underside. My understanding is that the toilet needs to come out to drop the tank. All the threads i found seem to start right after the step I’m at /:

[MaineJed]

Hold the exposed bolt with vise grips and cut the nut off with a hacksaw. 

[IdahoDoug]

Agree w Jed and usually those are soft brass. There is a heavy plastic ring the studs are embedded in which can be replaced after you cut things. If you are replacing the toilet you can also cut it up for access, etc. Pics would help. I doubt there is a mechanical connection between the tank and toilet. Usually simply a slip fit - thats how my 82 is.