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So I didn't realize that the sound I was hearing was an engine knock and now I don't know how long I've been hearing it for. I think it might have been hearing it for a long time

 

Means I should probably steel myself to needing to do something about the engine. It has been rebuilt once so I don't think I can get it to be rebuilt again

I've been seeing ads for new 22R engines and I'm wondering if anyone knows how much better or worse they will be compared to the reliability of the original engine ?

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First you need to find out why it's knocking. Lots of things can make a 22r knock like low oil pressure. I saw a yooutube video of a guy and his 22r was knocking because he didn't push a spark plug on all the way. Fixed it in seconds. Have it checked out first. Looks like your posting from southern Cal. This place knows Toyota's and has engines. Some used some rebuilt, you have to call

CalMini-Truck Dismantler (calminirecycling.com)

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Thank you so much for that information, Linda. Perhaps I can keep my powder dry for the next mole to wack on this Odyssey of budget car self repair!

 

By the way...

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WZFNUAlz3vI

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On 4/25/2022 at 11:48 AM, Toyota_RV_Racer said:

I just don't trust people these days.

That's entirely fair but this guy's disssembling was more about ignoring the fact that it needed breaks desperately and a new clutch and a new alternator.

 

He bragged about the fact that the engine had been rebuilt so I'm reasonably certain it was especially since it starts with one turn of the ignition, as long as I have enough fuel in there, because it needs a new fuel pump!

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😍😍😍💕💕

 

Really pleased me to see that

Thanks!

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On 4/25/2022 at 11:48 AM, Toyota_RV_Racer said:

Time for a 5VZ-FE...... woo-hoo!!  But anyway, as far as 'rebuilding' goes, you can never be sure what exactly that entails or if it's even had a rebuild if previous owner didn't leave you receipts to show what was done.  Could have just been a simple head gasket replacement, valve adjustment, water pump/timing belt replacement.  I just don't trust people these days.


You are not even on the same page.  It is VERY EASY to find rebuilt Toyota 22R and 22RE engines manufactured by professional rebuilding companies. Not some wanker sitting in their home garage claiming that a tune up is a rebuilt engine. Those people aren’t intelligent enough to arrange shipment for an engine and a core online.  You can go on eBay and find a handful of options and every single one has a detailed description of what was done. No none of these professionals are going to give you receipts for the parts. Be real.

 

cannante, low fuel pressure from a bad fuel pump could potentially cause engine knock/ping/detonation. This is vastly different from rod knock caused by bad engine bearings. But it can actually sound about the same. Or close enough for the untrained ear.  This is especially true when it isn’t super loud. 
 

The rebuilt engines by reputable rebuilders are Toyota motors that have been given new life. They should be as reliable as the original ones, as long as decent quality parts were used. Your engine could also be rebuilt again. Just because it was rebuilt before doesn’t mean it can’t be agin. But it would be simpler to use it for a core and get a reman engine. 
 

This is assuming yours is even damaged….  

Edited by thewanderlustking
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5VZ FE would require, the engine, transmission, new custom exhaust system, engine mounts, computer, sensors, fuel pump and a new hood with a scoop lift on the top for the engine to fit. Cannante's 83 has a smaller engine compartment. Total cost if you couldn't do the work about 15 grand vs 1500 for a 22r replacement. You apparently have no mechanical knowledge and I've asked you before to not respond when you don't know what you're talking about

Linda S

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i second toy only swaps. just got mine back a couple of weeks ago. I actually replaced my 22RE with a rebuilt one from a shop with a nicer cam. Long story short, I still hated how slow it was and bit the bullet and had them do the swap. $8500 is the base price by the time you get some of the upgrades you'll probably be sitting closer to 10. 

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3 hours ago, Toyota_RV_Racer said:

TOS - Toy Only Swaps..... your one stop shop!  5VZ-FE swap for $8500!  👌

$8500 would be from a 6 cylinder 3.0L/3vze to a 3.4L/5vze

I don't believe TOS does a 22r swap.

There has only been a few 4Runner enthusiasts that have done a 22r swap themselves. I have done the 3.0 to 3.4 which is not that easy and a 22R swap would be way harder.

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This thread is going sideways…. There is ZERO reason to even talk about motor swapping, if cannante doesn’t even have a blown jug. Vehicles with blown motors usually don’t start up and run nicely otherwise. 
 

The first thing to do is to verify what kind of “knock” the engine even has.  cannante, if the noise is subtle, as by your comments it probably is, let’s start by trying to figure out what it actually is before jumping to conclusions and spending 5-15k on a motor swap you might not even need!  
 

The simplest path is to have a reputable shop look at it and diagnose it. But, if it is rod knock then driving the vehicle does more damage. If the noise is subtle and not crazy loud, then there is a fair likelihood the motor can be salvaged.  I have replaced rod bearings on several engines with them still in the vehicle.

 

Rod knock:  If the knocking occurs at a stop with the truck in neutral or park while lightly reving the engine, it is rod knock. This will usually happen the loudest at the peak where you let off and the engine for a moment is unloaded.  This is gentle reving mind you. 
 
Detonation knock:  This is usually a much quieter noise than rod knock but in the right circumstances can sound identical. This won’t occur with the truck stationary in neutral and gently reving it up/down. This occurs while driving it under load. If it rattles a little when slightly tipping the throttle in while cruising on the highway, mild detonation. If it sounds like marbles in a coffee can during a specific rpm band while accelerating only, severe knock. 
 

This is a quick and abridged version and maybe not a 100% perfect description, but it will get you much closer. 
 

Let’s start with figuring out what this noise is first and if it can be fixed before we worry about swapping the engine…. 

 

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On 4/29/2022 at 8:51 PM, thewanderlustking said:

This thread is going sideways…. There is ZERO reason to even talk about motor swapping, if cannante doesn’t even have a blown jug. Vehicles with blown motors usually don’t start up and run nicely otherwise. 
 

The first thing to do is to verify what kind of “knock” the engine even has.  cannante, if the noise is subtle, as by your comments it probably is, let’s start by trying to figure out what it actually is before jumping to conclusions and spending 5-15k on a motor swap you might not even need!  
 

The simplest path is to have a reputable shop look at it and diagnose it. But, if it is rod knock then driving the vehicle does more damage. If the noise is subtle and not crazy loud, then there is a fair likelihood the motor can be salvaged.  I have replaced rod bearings on several engines with them still in the vehicle.

 

Rod knock:  If the knocking occurs at a stop with the truck in neutral or park while lightly reving the engine, it is rod knock. This will usually happen the loudest at the peak where you let off and the engine for a moment is unloaded.  This is gentle reving mind you. 
 
Detonation knock:  This is usually a much quieter noise than rod knock but in the right circumstances can sound identical. This won’t occur with the truck stationary in neutral and gently reving it up/down. This occurs while driving it under load. If it rattles a little when slightly tipping the throttle in while cruising on the highway, mild detonation. If it sounds like marbles in a coffee can during a specific rpm band while accelerating only, severe knock. 
 

This is a quick and abridged version and maybe not a 100% perfect description, but it will get you much closer. 
 

Let’s start with figuring out what this noise is first and if it can be fixed before we worry about swapping the engine…. 

 

Well it is definitely time to get the fuel pump in there, I bought one a while ago and have just been procrastinating. I have to get back to California to do that

 

So that's four weeks out. It starts beautifully I'm wondering about power now but I was driving it with 300 lb more stuff from New York to LA got good mileage as long as I didn't try to push it and slowly got it up to speed

 

When I took the 300 extra pounds out, and drove up to San Luis Obispo I had problems with all of the hills and losing power. But I think that might have been because I was used to having the weight-aided momentum

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Taking weight out will help, not hurt. If it’s having issues with LESS weight, something has been hurt. I have loaded up my car enough that I had to loose a sewing machine (an proper antique Singer with treadle table) and a couple boxes of cds. Then the car felt fine. 

 

Do a fuel pressure and volume test and see what your actual numbers are.  If you don’t have the tools, buy them. A $50 basic fuel pressure kit from the parts store should be enough. Some will loan it out too. Or even pay a shop the $99 diagnostic fee to do it. 
 

Detonation left unsolved will unecessarily  destroy a perfectly fine engine. It can take a head gasket out at best. Or it can burn holes through pistons. 
 

I get it you are not near home base, but figure out what is going on so you can have an idea how to most safely get it home. 
 

Not sure what your interior layout is. But my fuel pump is right underneath my dinette table. I spent a couple hours measuring and remeasuring, then drilled a six inch hole through my floor right over top of the gas tank sender/fuel pump assembly. I was able to do my fuel pump without dropping the tank. I used a marine deck access cover afterwards, $15. The hole saw was stupid expensive though…  

 

Leys say it is detonation. Well pushing it with any weight (even empty it’s still a heavy beast) through the mountains could pop a head gasket. Detonation and blown head gasket could quickly become a much more serious stuck on side of the road issue. If it could have been prevented with a fuel pump replacement and possibly retiming the engine…. 

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Let me add something else to this.  Be realistic and get GOOD information.  We can be keyboard mechanics all day long, BUT none of us are there with you looking at it.  So if you aren't sure of exactly what is going on, get a real live technician hands on diagnostic with your truck.  From what you are describing, I would check fuel pressure, check timing, and do a block test.  Fuel pressure and block test are pretty easy and you could do them yourself even in an Autozone parking lot.  The timing, yeah with the right timing light and knowing the goofy procedure.  I doubt I would even bother to carry a timing light in my toolkit though...    

 

I have 25yrs plus wrenching, but if this were my truck I wouldn't be driving it any further until I knew what exactly was wrong.  And I also wouldn't hesitate to ask a coworker, or another professional, what was wrong.  Sometimes it is just another set of eyes that aren't yours, looking it over.  And away from home, it is scary.

 

I was at a training conference and had taken my old 1977 Rabbit.  I knew it inside and out as I had built it from a bare shell.  About 30 miles from my destination I started hearing a bad knocking noise.  Pulled over, lifted up wheels one at a time with a jack, nothing.  Go drive some more and the noise had gone away.  But stats back up after 5-10 more miles.  This process is repeated a couple times.  I am not sure what it is.  Car gets hot, knocks.  Sounds like a wheel is about to fall off.  I look up the nearest Firestone (I worked for Brifgestome Americas at the time) and called them and limped it there.  It was an axle.  Simple and quick.  But had that axle gone on the road, I would have ben stranded without the right tools to do it.    

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is this a 22r carb or is it the 22rec efi carb fuel pump is on the head end under the hood only efi has the pump in the tank .  .  i would take a pice of pvc pipe 18 inches long or soo with the engine running put one end on the valve cover , sideof block etc put the outher end up to your ear and listen i once dinosed a knocking alternater with this methed. and as for the v6 i have owened 7 toyotas all 4 cylinders . maybe less hp no internal water pump hokey fake rubber timing chain. much easer to service or fix. i am an old duffer and you cound not give me a six.

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Wanderlust, the difference in the terrain was significant enough that that might have been the main issue

 

On the drive out on the 10 they were hills but I was able to maintain momentum enough that it wasn't a problem taking out the extra weight and not needing to worry about momentum as much ended up being a problem on the hills, I think

 

Because especially since they were hills and not mountains

 

I'm in New York right now The car is in my brother's backyard in Pasadena and I don't intend on doing anything with it until these issues are all solved I have a few things that need to be looked at

 

Thank you for the advice regarding fuel pressure etc before anything I know I do want to put a new fuel pump in it it might solve lots of problems

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/25/2022 at 4:32 PM, linda s said:

First you need to find out why it's knocking. Lots of things can make a 22r knock like low oil pressure. I saw a yooutube video of a guy and his 22r was knocking because he didn't push a spark plug on all the way. Fixed it in seconds. Have it checked out first. Looks like your posting from southern Cal. This place knows Toyota's and has engines. Some used some rebuilt, you have to call

CalMini-Truck Dismantler (calminirecycling.com)

I'm going to contact the link you gave me, but are they mechanics can they look at the RV itself or they just selling me the engine?

 

I'm flying back next week, and would love to have a couple options for mechanics where I could leave it and get it more roadworthy

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

If they have the engine you need they will install it. They don't do RV repair, just mechanical and only for parts purchased from them

Linda S 

Okay, thank you. Will it be difficult to find a good Toyota mechanic should I just ask around?

 

In New York I was told to go to the Dominicans because they cherish their Toyotas in D.r.  didn't work out so well because I'm already having clutch problems

 

I guess I'm just still looking for mechanics I'm in the Pasadena area. Will be driving up to Idaho soon. So I can go to any place that anyone feels is a wise try in between Pasadena and Salmon Idaho!

 

Lol

 

I'll probably drive up through Las Vegas to take advantage of less expensive gas 🤓😎🤠

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LA is probably your best place to find a mechanic. Ask the guys at the minitruck place. Bet they can recommend someone. If not you're looking for a small shop. If they have the money to advertise they cost too much. Shops that get all their customers from word of mouth are successful because they do good work. Mexicans like Toyota's too. I heard a while back that used parts were getting hard to find in southern Cal because they were all being shipped to Mexico. How do you feel about Tijuana.

Linda S

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12 minutes ago, linda s said:

LA is probably your best place to find a mechanic. Ask the guys at the minitruck place. Bet they can recommend someone. If not you're looking for a small shop. If they have the money to advertise they cost too much. Shops that get all their customers from word of mouth are successful because they do good work. Mexicans like Toyota's too. I heard a while back that used parts were getting hard to find in southern Cal because they were all being shipped to Mexico. How do you feel about Tijuana.

Linda S

Compelling!!

 

TJ... Haven't been in ages! Although it must be like a oven down there right now and I don't have a c, LOL something to consider though I will definitely ask them and thank you for the help, once again!

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