Don bird Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 What is the best converter to use for replacing the old analog model 6300 35 amp converter? I want to increase the amperage to be able to run the refer of shore power. So I thought. 50amp would do it. What brand and models have past RVers used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 What kind of fridge do you have? They’re not high draw units anyway, especially in RVs, so you don’t need to go big on converter amperage. I’ve used one of the Powermax PM3 units for the last 5 years (35A, I believe) and haven’t had any problems. Does a much better job of maintaining/protecting the coach battery, which is the main reason to upgrade from old Magnetek units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 Yes, what refer?? Most RV refers run on propane/115v AC. There some that have a 12v heater, but that's only for traveling, as it's less effective than the 115v or propane If your refer has a 115v AC input then the converter has nothing to do with it running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 Running it on propane is the most efficient. The DC side is a power hog it uses a heating element. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 This makes no sense to me. The old converters don't hinder running the fridge when plugged into shore power. Maybe if you wanted to add an inverter to run the fridge off the battery but that would drain your house battery very quickly. You need to explain more for anyone to give you a relevant answer Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don bird Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 I erroneously thought the converter was needed to run the refer when connected to shore power. now my understanding is the refer just goes through the breaker panel and fuse. I didn’t want to run the refer off DC because of the crazy drain it would have on battery. mostly I want to know what is the best mfg and type of converter to use to replace the old one who’ve is a 35amp. The dimensions of the old converter is 4”H x11”W. if I do run the refer of AC do I have to increase the Amp of the converter or does the converter have nothing to do with it at all.? In what scenario would I have to increase the amperage of a converter? thank you for helping me answer these basic questions. It can be a little confusing learning about the relationships within the electrical systems as I have no prior experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don bird Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 Right now the refer only runs on propane. Although refer has a setting for electric or gas, I was told it doesn’t run on AC. The fuse panel has a fuse labeled refer too. maybe I need to add another breaker the panel? I’m perplexed. and again if anyone has a suggestion as to what is a good converter to get and is it a good idea to get a higher amp converter or why would I need a higher rate converter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don bird Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 Is it a good idea to replace the old fuse and breaker box at the same time as the converter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Warrior Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 The magnatek units break down into two halves. The upper with the breaker block and DC fuse block, and the lower with the converter charger. I've seen units from mfg's that replace the lower half with a new converter/charger and leave the upper half the same. That may be the easiest case scenario to update. The breakers appear to be BR style? Unsure if theyre plug-on or bolt on, Im assuming not plug on as there is no buss bar in the breaker side. If they're in decent shape I would leave them unless swapping converters requires changing them. It could be an adventure to find replacements to fit. In my case, I pulled my whole power unit out, took it apart, rebuilt/refurbed the converter/charger; the breaker side was melted apart in the past, pulled that out and added pushbutton TM breakers instead. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 (edited) Volt/ohm meter time. This is the MOST IMPORTANT tool you can have in an older RV, Harbor Freight $7. The ac side of a refer is just a heater element, easily replaced. Check your with the ohm function. Here is what one looks like...https://www.ebay.com/itm/265113822737?epid=1623559137&hash=item3dba03e611:g:vmEAAOSwhGxga5ej Converter information ...https://www.bestconverter.com/ They have upgrade kits and complete replacements Edited April 15, 2022 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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