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I keep reading here and there about LH threads on the rear wheels.  I have a 1986 Odyssey Mesa 2WD.  Does this apply to me?  And, if so, which wheel has that special LH thread?

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left hand bolts and nuts have a groove cut in them around the outside

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Very possible with an 86 MH. The driver side rear is where they are.

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Thanks for your responses. I’ll take a look at the drivers side rear for the notched bolts and nuts

 

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Linda, the door sticker says Jan 1986.  I'm not sure if the picture shows that the nuts are "notched" or if these are just manufacturing marks (see the lines on the nut).  But according to what the year and your statement, they are reverse thread. Correct?

Driver Side Dually Lug Nuts.jpg

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On 1/30/2022 at 9:53 AM, linda s said:

Yup left hand for sure 

 Mine is Jan 86 too. 

Linda S

So just to verify. Another poster said drivers side rear ONLY is left hand thread. Is this correct or is it both sides?

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they will only be on the left side.  i had a 67 dodge van with the same thing except the fronts were leftys also

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59 minutes ago, extech said:

they will only be on the left side.  i had a 67 dodge van with the same thing except the fronts were leftys also

Thanks for verifying. 

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I'm not sure about your talent level, but some folks have installed RH threaded studs on the  on the left rear to simplifly life.

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since front and rear were lf thread, i use turn to the front to tighten on both sides.  come to think of it the51 dodge meadowbrook i had was the same

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I don’t remember if I swapped my left side out or not….  It is super easy to do though. There is a valid reason to do so, that most outside of a tire or repair shop wouldn’t know. Torque wrenches that shops use only torque clockwise, or right hand threads. Torque sticks could be used in reverse, but shouldn’t be due to potential to shatter. There are a new breed of impact guns out there that can be programmed for the torque, clockwise. 
 

Sure, many shops will have that one old guy that still has a beam type torque wrench. But I would also bet it hasn’t been used for 20+ years.   
 

Back 20 years ago only the most expensive 1/2 air guns got more than 400ft lbs. the average shop air gun might get a lug to 150. Now a days most techs use a cordless like the Milwaukee 1/2. It has a breakaway of 1400ft lbs….   
 

Translation, if you have a lefty, MAKE SURE to let a tire tech or roadside assistance know. If you have one that should be but you have changed out, also inform them on the off chance they know what it should be. 
 

 

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On 2/6/2022 at 7:07 PM, thewanderlustking said:

I don’t remember if I swapped my left side out or not….  It is super easy to do though. There is a valid reason to do so, that most outside of a tire or repair shop wouldn’t know. Torque wrenches that shops use only torque clockwise, or right hand threads. Torque sticks could be used in reverse, but shouldn’t be due to potential to shatter. There are a new breed of impact guns out there that can be programmed for the torque, clockwise. 
 

Sure, many shops will have that one old guy that still has a beam type torque wrench. But I would also bet it hasn’t been used for 20+ years.   
 

Back 20 years ago only the most expensive 1/2 air guns got more than 400ft lbs. the average shop air gun might get a lug to 150. Now a days most techs use a cordless like the Milwaukee 1/2. It has a breakaway of 1400ft lbs….   
 

Translation, if you have a lefty, MAKE SURE to let a tire tech or roadside assistance know. If you have one that should be but you have changed out, also inform them on the off chance they know what it should be. 
 

 

Thanks wanderlustking. I was planning on getting my brakes done soon, so I will be a helicopter around that drivers side rear.  I probably should do them myself, but it’s been too long.  Rear brakes are, in my recollection, the most tricky. And with duallies, I get even more apprehensive about attempting it. My younger self would smack me upside the head for being such a coward about DIY car repair. 

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On 2/8/2022 at 8:11 PM, Jimijames said:

I was planning on getting my brakes done soon, so I will be a helicopter around that drivers side rear.  I probably should do them myself, but it’s been too long.  


The rear drums are definitely harder to do than the front discs. If you are fairly mechanically inclined, you could do them. But they will suck a bit. The catch is all the reasons why you wouldn’t want to do them, are the same reasons why you should. You can’t easily lift these trucks. So a mechanic is likely doing it on the ground. If they aren’t charging you a shop standard $199-250 brake service, they will charge accordingly. You will also take more care with it since it is yours. 
 

But also if anything goes sideways, then having a shop deal with it saves you that headache. 
 

Tough call. Myself, I can easily do mine. But if my rears do need to be done, I will be calling in a chip and have my friend do it. Sitting on the ground for 1-2 hrs isn’t worth it. 
 

 

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A lift would just make the job more difficult. Removing an axle shaft is far easier well below waist height. You can't remove the hub till the axle is out. I used a floor jack and replacing shoes and repacking bearings was done sitting on my shop stool. Only thing to get on the ground for is bleeding lines. As far as cost, nothing even faintly close to a standard brake job. Multiple seals, difficult acorn nuts, so much more work. I would not be surprised at a quote of a thousand for both wheels. Probably more

Linda S

 

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