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I noticed a lot of white smoke coming from the tail pipe upon start up this morning. Cold outside and damp so was concerned but not convinced of a problem. Popped the hood and noticed coolant being low. Examined the oil and looked normal. wet on the passenger side of the water pump. Decided to warm up the motor and use a block test kit and it tested positive for exhaust gas in the coolant.  Coolant is seeping into the cylinders and exhaust gas is getting into the coolant. The oil and coolant are not mixing but will need to remove the head and replace the gasket. 

 

Ordered a replacement gasket for the head, intake, and exhaust. Will take off the water pump and replace the gasket as there is evidence of a leak there as well. Thoughts about coolant leak by the water pump besides the gasket? I replaced the water pump last year. It is an Asin and I have had no overheat issues. 

 

Any tips are appreciated. If there is interest I can post pictures as I go along. 

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Replace the water pump( not just the gasket).

I have the 20R engine. 22R is very similar. The FSM for my engine shows leaving the intake and exhaust manifolds attached to the head and removing as a unit. Saves a lot of unnecessary labor removing manifolds. If you have lifting hooks front and rear, this is the way to go.

I changed my head gasket in the driveway in about 4 hours. It’s very important you order NEW headbolts.

The old ones may be stretched and not torque correctly. 

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How many miles? If it is in the 100K plus (doubtful) the timing chain /guides would be a good ideal. Check the front seal you may want to replace the seal and the oil pump sealing ring but other than that it's' not a bad job. Valve adjustment of course goes along with it.

 

 

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pull the manifolds and have the head surfaced. like above, just replace the water pump.   cheap insurance

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dont worry about the head bolts. they are really beafy and dont stretch. ive done hundreds of these with no head bolt problems

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Stock head bolts on a 20R, 22R, and 22RE are considered by Toyota to be one-time use only bolt. 

Reuse at your own expense. For about $35 you can get a new set from LCE. Why take a chance with old bolts.

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They are not torque to yield and pretty hefty. Have reused them probably a hundred times. clean the treads block and bolt a drop of oil and go for it. 

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Yea, the motor has 70,000. I'll see what I can see with the timing chain and guides. I do see some oil drip from the front seal. Will order and replace along with oil pump gasket. Thanks for that.  Confusing that the new water pump is leaking. I've read in a lot of places issues with even new ones. Probably go with a new water pump to because I've noticed the leak on the passenger side edge  and I was careful with the new gasket for it. Thanks. Starting next weekend Wisconsin outside weather permitting; working on it outside in the yard. 

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The "E" engines used a single roller chain the "R" a double and they never wore out. The snubber is spring loaded and pressure feed so they take it on the chin too. The logic was less mass to keep moving better fuel economy etc. The oil pump is right up front and they were known to leak with high miles so it should be good for another 100K!

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at a min., check  for flatness with a straight edge. any sign of warp means time to surface. machine shops just run them on the belt sander as a matter of course, saves time and money.

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Look here and see what machine shops really do to clean and resurface a head. Toyota heads are notorious for poor flowing ports. Proper cleaning is a must. Cracks are also very possible.  And no they don't use a freaking belt sander for the resurfacing.

How a Machine Shop Checks and Resurfaces a Cylinder Head - YouTube

Linda S

 

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Shaving a 22r head is risky. A tiny tiny amount maybe 

When the head is on the engine it's flat. When it's removed it will distort, when they shave the distorted head its surface is now flat. The cam is also distorted and when you bolt the head back on the block with the new flat surface the cam is still distorted and can cause a great deal of wear on the cam bearings and possibly the cam.

Here is the whole kaboddle for under $300...https://www.ebay.com/itm/401556029385?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item5d7e9abfc9:g:qysAAOSwBnZbLAlR

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I think the 22RE is an “interference” engine. Be careful how much you shave the head.

Never heard of using a belt sander on an aluminum head.

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10 minutes ago, linda s said:

that looks incredibly imprecise. No way to know what they've taken off or even if the guy is holding it level. Another reason to ask many questions to make sure they have the best equipment

Linda S

I agree with you on the sander. As long as you follow the factory tightening/loosening sequence  for removing the cylinder head bolts you should have no problem with warping. 

A quality straight edge with a feeler gage can be used for verification. The FSM actually includes instructions on this procedure. 

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The RE isn't an interference engine. The belt head sanders as far as I know are not designed for aluminum heads only iron. Back in my automotive machine shop days (many years ago) we had precision straight edges and set the plaining up to cut the least possibly amount off. Not only did they bow they also twisted so it was important to adjust the cut accordingly.

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28 minutes ago, Scott iv said:

Thanks folks. I like the variety of opinions. Helps me think more thoroughly about my project. 

 

There are videos on youtube of sanding heads. Here is an example of a guy hand sanding one using a block: 

 

Got to be honest with you that isn't even slightly  accurate enough.

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a good shop i would think would not use  that sander . however some years back i had a shop do the head on my datsun B210 this was a very small pushrod moto r had aways had a slight head oil leak. i bought the car new . they used a belt           sander  on the head i know for a fact .  and this was an aluminum     head.                                                      all i can say is it never leaked oil again.  but the next time i went to a real machine shop with a 20 r head  they used a very old and good surfacing planer. another thing is did the prevous owners change antifreeze reguler . i have seen sveral heads aluminum  toyota and datsun compleaty eaten up by electroliss thatthey would not seal anything. in one engine the crank and bearings were all destroyed from collent. you  see the key word with the  sander  add               save  labor save time get more out faster.also says for use on aluminum.

Edited by 5Toyota
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I had a small coolant leakby the water pump on my 3.0. Took out the water pump and changed gasket and still had the leak. Took out the thermostat and put sealant where the pipes come together and that fixed it.

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Have the head pulled and can see coolant pooled in the bottom of piston 2 and on top of piston 4. I see some of the passages on the head partially blocked by rtv. The second head bolt from the back on the driver side was very stuck. Worried I was going to break it but it slowly freed (I read of a lot of people breaking theirs).  Now to clean everything up and keep moving forward. Gaskets arriving at more doorstep daily this past week. 

IMG_20211031_102608791.jpg

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only part of the valve thats important is the face that contacts the seat. you can use a wire brush in a drill motor to clean up the combustion chambers.   the head needs to go to a machine shop if the gasket had leaked. the block just needs a stiff putty knife to clean up

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Yea, the machine shop in my area is busy and were not sure when they could get to it. Quoted $250 but could be more depending on parts need. I am going to clean and keep the head and will order a different one to be delivered to my house. I'm hoping to use the camper yet this season. I've been cleaning my surfaces including both intake surfaces and the exhaust manifold. I've got the block pretty good and spent a lot of time getting the gasket material off. 

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Noticed a lot of oil on the driver side of the block back over the transmission. Front main seal and oil pump gasket have obviously been leaking when under pressure spraying oil all over the last few times I drove it. Will report how the main seal and oil pump gasket replacement went next. 

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did you look at the old head gasket . on the 20R older types some people would install a felpro after market head gasket. i dont know if felpro fixed there problem . but the older gaskets wher a perma torque said to never need retighting. they just did not work. about 2 years was about all they would last. got this straight from a good toyota mecinac. and had this happen to me . never had head off a 22r but that rtv makes me think some one was in there before but those old felpros came with stuff like that on them. personaly as i am from the dark ages i have never used rtv on anything. the toyota gasket 20 R came ready to install. anything else i use copper cote or nasty old black permatex brush on . nasty seals great use on water pump gaskets . 40rty 5 years never had one leak.

Edited by 5Toyota
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There was definitely silicone used on the headgasket I removed. The gasket was in very poor condition so I have no idea what make it was. Silicone partially blocking some of the port holes in the head and block. A lot of carbon build up as well. Took a lot of elbow grease to clean the block; the old gasket welded itself on. 

 

A few notes from the weekend:

 

My timing chain did not have the shiny link at TDC; if there is a shiny link it was put on in the wrong spot by the last person to do the head gasket job. I'll report on my timing once I'm ready to fire it up but think I was able to get the chain back where it was supposed to be. The plastic guides still appeared in excellent shape. The timing chain tensioner works strong and made it difficult to get that cam gear back on and aligned. 

 

I used the starter motor to get the front main shaft pulley off. I hot wired the starter motor and just touched it to the battery and it loosened up.  The oil pump rubber gasket was hard like plastic and flat. The main shaft seal didn't appear bad but I pried it out and am replacing anyway. 

 

 

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i just love these people that use silicone on a head gasket. obvisly a rank dont know or dont care job . some of the younger people think that stuff is the answer to anything. and the people who sell it too them. will tell them that it is .

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Machine has been reassembled and now on to an electrical gremlin. Turning the key to the on position results in dash lights coming on, stereo coming on, power to the lighter. When I turn the key to ignition there is no sound and the power goes out to my stereo and lighter. I know the starter works fine because I can jump it and it performs. I'm thinking the ignition itself is shorting. I've checked the grounds, charged the battery, checked the ignition fuse. When i remove the ignition fuse it makes no difference; key turn results in cutting power to stereo and cig lighter. No engine turn over sound, no clicks, nothing.  The motor freely turns. 

Edited by Scott iv
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