luckylinda Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 I figure the months recently in Mexico stressed the roof with the AC unit bouncing while trying to survive the roads. My preference would be replacing 2/3 of roof or just reinforcing the AC area. The door side wall is bulging a little and also inside wall. I have to make it better before I drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckylinda Posted August 12, 2021 Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 Since I want to have more risers up from the roof, what about bolting/welding a frame, from the frame - up and over to hold it together? Or propping from the inside? Removing the AC? Ideas?? I need something done now. Need to leave the NW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 The easy permanent fix would be to remove the AC and just install a vent. Then, of course, no AC. A simple temp fix would be brace from the inside. Purchase 2x4's and make 2 braces like the letter "T". One for the front of the AC and one for the back. Make the "T's" tall enough to eliminate the sag and keep enough pressure so they stay in place. T's will go floor to ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott iv Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 Amend: I think the "t" braces would be best placed on the sides of the AC inside the camper lifting the sagging roof joists currently holding upuphe AC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 This is an outside quicky fix, but works. 1.25" SQ steel tubing. The strongest point on your RV is the top of the wall. So you place the A/C weight there. Place an 18" length of tubing on top of the wall on each side. A full span tube in front and back of the A/C that sits on the wall tubing. Bolt/weld them together. Screw the wall tubing to the wall. What you end up is a support tubing that is 1.25 " above the roof top at the A/C. Drill through the tube, through the roof and install a long bolt and big washer and do this every foot or so. Tighten the center bolts the most and the outer ones less. Doing this will let you raise the center of the roof over 1" and give the rest a small curve for water runoff. Like center bolts 1" middle bolts 3/4" and outer 1/2". Instead of washers you could use a 1/8x1" aluminum Mill stock the full width inside to spread the load through the whole span. Paint to prevent rust and reduce the ugly factor. At your local metal supplier have them lay a 8ft section on the ground and prop the ends up 1.25" and stand on it and see how far it reflects. Go with the thinnest wall section that support you with minimal sag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 I find this site hard to search. WME is spot on, except I would use minimum 1 1/2 inch tubing, The larger tubing is not needed for strength but for sealing area. I also wonder if an I beam would be better than tubing?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 Unfortunately the strongest point on her rig is not the top of the wall. Her wall is bowing out. It sounds like severe structural damage. Any support is going to have to come up from the floor and across the ceiling . She hasn't shown us any inside pics so there's no way to know where there's clear access for building that bridge. You can't get to floor or frame support from the outside siding so it would have to be inside Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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