Roof HELP! Other than setting this on fire, any other more realistic options?

[thewanderlustking]

Oh and the AC unit was too depressing to take pictures of.  It came off in pieces.  Trash.  We were using a 4' piece of rebar to lift it up, hold, wiggle as we could hear the foam separating.  It was damaging the case, not a big deal.  But then a piece of the case punctured one of the coils or condenser.  Psssssssssssssssssstttttttttttt for well over 2 hours...  

 

No wonder the roof collapsed.  That damn thing probably weighs 200lbs!!!!     

[thewanderlustking]

No surprise I guess but trying to heat patch/weld didn't work...  I had high hopes it would.  Roof aluminum is just too thin.  So we are trying another approach.  I will post up pictures of that shortly.  

 

I haven't decided on an approach to the AC issue.  In the hunt for MPG, I am contemplating NOT putting a unit back on the roof but perhaps looking for something small and portable.  Thats down the road though I guess.  For now I have holes, interior, and roof structure to worry about first. 

[Gary_M]

You can always go the portable route.

 

Waiter's Window A/C in a Dolphin

 

A Cab AC on steroids, is that legal?   😁

 

[linda s]

I use a small portable ac unit on wheels. Only take it if I'm going to need it  vent out front passenger window with curtain between cab and coach. Works great. 

Linda S 

[thewanderlustking]

We found 4 different sections with holes.  I went inside with a bright light and Victor looked for the holes.  The welding idea didn't work, we still think it can on small pinholes with a more controllable temperature.  But the big areas were just blowing out.  So he used this instead. 

 

 

The plan was pretty simple, we used the cut outs from when I did the taillights to make some patches.  Prepped them, drilled holes, then used the plastic metal ad adhesive and riveted them in place.  

 

 

After that he filled the centers and put more overtop as filler.  

 

 

Afterwards, we could feel the difference in the panel strength.  He did an AMAZING job!  Can't thank him enough!!!  

 

His wife helped out too and vacuumed, and vacuumed, then vacuumed the interior some more!  By the time she was done, it looks a bazillion times better.  And as close to zero smell as it has ever had.  The normal old RV smells were even gone.   She also was a huge help with fetching tools, fire watch, organizing parts we were saving in the shed, and much more! 

 

Heh, I didn't sit idle and watch though!  There was a WHOLE LOT if scheming and brainstorming going on.  We looked over everything and I think found all the other areas still needing attention.  A lot of time was wasted trying to weld the patches, burning my hand by picking up the hot body dolly, finding a bucket to fill with water and ice so we could drop the dolly in it...

Then rain threatened to darken the skies and it actually sprinkled for all of 30 seconds.  In a frantic hurry I used some coroplast to seal up the big 14" hole.  Then I tackled a big side project.  The awning.  When I pulled it off the Warrior, I had ended up basically cutting and breaking it off the side.  It was glued to it.  The back was covered in shredded fillion and glue.  Not sure why they did that...  Anyways I sat for probably 2hrs with a chisel cleaning it off.  Long enough I dulled the chisel and blew the head off the mallet.  Inexpensive Harbor Freight stuff, but it has served me well and I didn't feel guilty abusing it that way.  I have maybe 6" left that while passable, I still want to get cleaned up the last little bit.  My hands hurt and itch today...  I will probably go tackle that last bit after breakfast to get it done and over with.  

 

There is so so much more to do, but it suddenly feels a lot less daunting than it did a few days ago!  The worst part left is probably still much cleanup...  There is STILL TONS of crap up on the roof around where the AC unit was.  That flex seal or eternal bond tape is seriously evil and tenacious stuff!  It holds the tar and other 30+ years of crap together and doesn't want to let go.  I have had to burn, heat, pull and sometimes cut it off.  Only have maybe half of it off...  There is still more cleanup of damage inside.  While we have most of the wet rotten stuff gone, there is a lot of okay crap left that needs to be gotten out  to make room for the new stuff.  

 

It finally poured sometime last night.  But it is dry as can be inside this morning.  I think we are finally making some good progress!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 31, 2022 by thewanderlustking

[thewanderlustking]

I really like the portable AC unit Idea Linda!  I saw one ages ago for camping and emergency use that I am wanting to find again.  It was really intriguing.  Kinda compact and could run off of a battery pack.  It wasn't a water chiller setup either, but a legitimate AC unit...  Hummmmm....  I think it was a Zero Breeze unit.  Yeah that's what it was!  I guess I can see why I didn't consider it a great option.  Kinda expensive.

 

A quick look around though finds me the NeoAmico, and a couple other similar units in a slightly more reasonable price range.  

Stil, an upright kinda portable unit like you are talking about that is only $300-400 (even with its bigger footprint) is hard to argue with.   But then just putting a Dometic Brisk back on the roof that is double the BTU of the old Coleman for $600, is almost a no brainer.   Whatever the case, I have lots of time to go hunting and decide what direction to go.  At this point being concerned about $400 vs $1400...  It is more about just getting it done and out on the road.  I have to prioritize finishing interior and roof, but once those are out of the way, an extra $1k for the best option isn't going to be a big deal.  I just have to finish with all the projects and parts already on hand.  

 

With that said, a nice and truly portable unit can actually serve double duty and the additional cost easier to justify.  The Eco Wave unit is another super interesting unit!  The more I look, the more REALLY interesting options I am finding.  The ability to utilize an AC off grid, boondock, in a hurricane, or in other power outage emergency at the house would actually sell me and the wife on the right unit.         

[WME]

https://faroutride.com/12v-air-con/

https://www.thervgeeks.com/12v-rv-air-conditioner/

Fun reading and a major shock to your wallet.

 

If you go to a portable roll around unit try, try to find a unit with 2 hoses in the back. (inlet/outlet). If you end up with a single hose unit, you have to follow Linda's install to the letter.

 

 

 

[thewanderlustking]

DAMN those are expensive WME, you sure weren't kidding there!  WAY WAY out of the budget I want to spend.  A VERY good read though thank you!  Now I have stumbled across some 12v ac roof units on Amazon a little ways back in the $1400-1600 range.  A quick search again now shows some options as low as $1200.  And some interesting agriculture type "parking coolers" as low as $600.  These are essentially mini-split systems and are shipped without freon.  Not a big deal for me (I have my 609 certificate and access to the equipment).  Still I don't really want to have to mess with finding space for one of these.  A roof mounted system is much simpler.      

 

There is a lot more research needed though for any of the above 12v options.  I don't think my current battery setup would be sufficient to run any of them throughout the night.  Realistically, I probably need a lithium battery bank.  Time to do some number crunching...  I also wonder how much offset my solar panels can take up during the day.  As I am writing this, I ironically get a Goal Zero email notification!  

 

These new portable mini systems are SUPER interesting!  The EcoFlow Wave Portable Air Conditioner is my favorite so far.  Their main focus is emergency use and tent camping.  But they probably would cool off our small Toyota RVs pretty well too!  They are a lot smarter than normal DC or AC only units.  The EcoFlow Wave (for instance) adjusts the way it functions on DC vs AC.  And it runs on both too.  It is only 4000 BTUs but supposedly can cool off a "small to medium space in only 8 minutes flat!"  Hummmm...  

 

While defiantly not the cheapest option, or even the most effective one, the EcoFlow Wave Portable Air Conditioner is a very very interesting middle ground possibility that gives me the off grid capability I want, but can also run on grid plugged into my AC shore power.  It also gives me the additional emergency use capabilities.  And does all of the above for about $2k (with the battery pack).   As another bonus, I don't need it installed on the roof, and can use that space for a nice vent fan.  Bonus, it will give me back some fuel economy too.

 

I am pretty much sold on this option.  It is an awesome compromise for everything I am after.        

[thewanderlustking]

Anyone know what BTUs our old Coleman Mini Machs are?  I seem to remember they are 6000 BTU?  
 

I am trying to get a feel for how many BTUs a 21’ Mini Cruiser needs to effectively cool it down.  Or if this even really matters much except in the speed it cools it down?

I watched a handful of videos on the EcoFlow Wave last night and was fairly impressed by it. But there were some LONG cooldown times so I decided to do a bit more research.... 

 

Edited August 12, 2022 by thewanderlustking

[linda s]

7000 btu's. Can be run easily with a 2000wt generator. I hear some people run them with even lower wattage generators. 

Linda S

[thewanderlustking]

According to this article, RV AC needs about 60 to 80 BTUs per square foot.   I need to crunch the math a little better, but measuring just the length of living space I am at 16’ if I include the cab and space above it.  Extrapolating backwards from that chart would put me at 7000 BTU.  The rest of the article sorta contradicts that by saying that 15K is ideal for the 16-24' range, then saying that the 13500 BTU (like the modern Coleman Mini Mach) is perfect for the 20-24' length.      

 

So yeah that 7000 BTU follows the convention set in the article.  Okay cool still digging and thinking!  

[thewanderlustking]

My experience with the old Coleman was it took about 3-4 hours to cool it down.   After some hunting, I found my thread on the tests here:  

 

That EcoFlow Wave I really like is 4000 BTU. 
 

The inexpensive modern Coleman Mini Mach is 13500 BTU!  At 80 lbs though, it isn’t exactly lightweight. (Looking up a few other units and that seems to be the norm.)
 

The Coleman is priced right with the main unit being $600-700.  The interior control panel is separate, $150-250 or so (I will likely get the Bluetooth version). So for about $1k I can have almost 14k worth of BTUs on the roof.   

 

Back to my older thread jrbus made this comment (I cut out the second part as I am interested in the first bit):

 

On 6/10/2021 at 6:17 AM, jjrbus said:

An AC unit that can quickly cool the unit is far too big to keep humidity down, ...

 

Humidity is a HUGE problem here in Florida.  I would actually plug in the Coleman every other month or so (when it was still on the roof/working) just to combat the humidity and "freshen up" the interior.  

 

But the Coleman obviously isn’t going to run off grid on battery or solar without SERIOUSLY upgrading my setup.  And  if I believe that article, it probably won't run on my 2000 watt generator.  I think it is 2000w, but it don't really want to take it, or have space for it.  And if I am loading up to actually go somewhere, the rear hitch is going to be used for our electric bikes instead.  

 

My question is, would the 4000 BTU EcoFlow Wave Portable Air Conditioner  potentially be just as effective if run for longer periods of time?

 

I think I just might have enough solar to keep it running through the day and recharge it.  And almost enough battery to run that through the night.  Off grid.  I will need to crunch some power numbers and actually see what my panels are putting out.  But I suspect it wouldn't take too much effort to get it there.    

 

I am poking a bear that doesn't really need to be awake yet.  But I want a good "escape plan" going into my ceiling repairs.   If there is any real chance an AC unit will end up back on my roof, I need to sort out the bracing and reinforce the cutout beforehand.  

 

I also have been giving a lot of thought to "Is this just a cool gimmick, or would I actually utilize off grid AC enough to make it worth the expense?"  Well my work doesn't have a break room with AC.  Most lunchtimes find me sitting out in my car kinda uncomfortably eating lunch.  The EcoWave can be programed for kicking on at certain times, and for also running at lower output for longer.  It has a variable compressor output.

 

Walmart Parking lot camping.

 

Long term humidity control.  In my second driveway where I prefer to park it, I don't have as easy access to plugging into shore power.  I should be able to leave this operating at some diminished output for much longer periods of time.

 

Being able to have the AC on while driving would be super cool.  And more ideas keep surfacing.  

 

If the EcoWave were to be my only solution, I am sure it will need some more help.  I can explore some options for better insulating the roof while I am already in there.  Perhaps a reflextix layer above the foam.  A MaxxAir temperature controlled fan would be a smart option.  I am seriously considering this anyways to keep airflow and vent heat out.  Enough solar and battery, but this shouldn't be anywhere nears as big of a leap as other options would require.

 

And there is always the option to go with both...  The (modern) Coleman unit isn't too horribly expensive, but at 13500 BTUs it should QUICKLY get the temperature down.  The EcoWave then could serve as more directional AC output, like having an ice cold fan blowing on you.  Or it could even just be supplementary.  

 

Anyways there is a lot more exploring, research, and numbers crunching to do.  I just need to figure out the best option before I start putting the roof and ceiling back together!    

 

 

 

 

[WME]

More possibly useless information. My Escaper had a 13.5 k AC and an Onan 2800. I live in the Rockies and camp between 4000ft and 9500 ft. At 6000ft the 2800w Onan was putting out about 2400w. Above 90 degrees it would not restart the AC compressor after the thermostat cycled it. I installed a hard start booster cap and I was good for the rest of the time I had the Toy.

 

Story time... I was on a dry lake bed outside of Las Vegas the temps were 114+. Arrived at 0800 and filled the oil in the Onan and fired it up, turned on the air. The AC didn't cycle untill 3 AM, no hard start required 🙄. Temps were 95+at sunrise.  Poor Onan ran 24 HR a day for 3 days. Had to add oil and 10 gal of gas daily, gas was $1.15 a gallon.

 

Better starting tech today...http://www.micro-air.com/products_easystart_364_softstarter_microair.cfm

 

Middle size AC...https://www.airxcel.com/rv/coleman-mach/the-powersaver-series       The Mach 1 is 11000 btu and runs 9.7 amps or 11.5 amps in the desert.

 

More blather, I have had excellent service from Harbor Freight Inverter generators. Both the 2000w and the 3500w, AAYMMV

[linda s]

More info. That 11,000btu power saver runs at almost exactly the same power draw as your little Mini Mach did. Another member here 

installed it and an easy start and ran it fine with a 2000watt harbor freight generator. 

Linda S

[thewanderlustking]

I just don’t want to carry a generator.  No space, and the noise is obnoxious.  I actually have two, but couldn’t tell anyone what their outputs are without looking….  One I have never even started!  Those are fine though for emergency power during an extended outage from a hurricane/storm. At some point I will hook one up to the rv, but again it is emergency use if the house is comprised.  Instead of normal camping scenarios. 
 

Then there is the environmental impact. Solar is a winner there too. With the price of gas these days, that is another consideration. 

The numbers on that Coleman Power Saver look decent.  It could be a consideration for a roof mounted unit capable of running off solar and battery bank. 
 

But still obsessing over the EcoFlow Wave as it is super smart with a variable output compressor.  I just suspect that even running 24/7 it is going to have a hard time making it comfortable inside there….

 

I think the moving forward plan still has to be to build the reinforcement framework for putting a unit back on the roof.  I can then decide later and try out other options in the meantime. 
 

Take some extra insulating precautions when I redo the  ceiling. 
 

I have a thermal camera. I should make use of it and explore ideas for sealing the rest up as well as possible. 

 

The EcoFlow Wave is still high up on my want list and it would still be good to have for auxiliary use (our bedroom gets hot if the door is closed) or emergency use in a power outage. 
 

Well the next step is going to be improving on the overall insulation in there, repairing the ceiling, and building that framework. 

 

 

 

[WME]

Batteries, batteries, batteries. Solar panel, solar panel, solar panel.

Space to put them and of course$$$

Edited August 13, 2022 by WME

[thewanderlustking]

Space shouldn’t be a problem….  I have room for three battery boxes underneath the couch with only minor reconfiguration needed. I think my current box is a group 31. 
 

Then I could possibly fit 3 more under the front dining seat. And 2 more under the rear. Obviously weight and balance are a concern. And I also use the space under the dining seats for tools and jack. 
 

Due to weight/balance I would be leery to put three under the couch. And at that point, buying lithium probably becomes a better option.  But I can also get AGM deep cycles at cost… 

 

 

[WME]

Insulation upgrade. This is full on redneck engineering. I saw an example a long time ago. There is an exterior spray on foam used to uprate older mobile homes roofs.

 

On an older covered wagon Winnie the owner removed all the vents and such on the roof. He build up the openings with frames of 2x2 and 1x2 wood. and sprayed 3+" of the foam on the roof and cut and sanded it smooth Went from a flat roof to one that had slope. Like 3" in the middle and 2" on the edge. Then painted the foam with house paint to give it uv protection. The covers were screwed back on to the painted wood risers.

 

He said the risers were to keep the hatches and vents from being in pockets that would collect rain and leak. Made it quite too.

 

His didn't look too bad, but I have seen some real ugly jobs in older mobile home parks. You mileage may vary

 

P.S. Does the Eco Wave have a real universal battery input so you don't have to buy their name brand extender battery?

[thewanderlustking]

Haha great minds think alike!!!  I already have the framework up there and that thought had crossed my mind.  
 

As a side note I am obsessed with tech, especially of the oddball remote controlled sort. I have a small collection of underwater ROVs and random supplies to go with them. Including some 624/650 6lb density Polyurethane Buoyancy foam.  This is what the Coast Guard utilizes to cast marker buoys. It is extremely hard and very chemical resistant. Gas doesn’t even soften it.  Filling the inside of an ROV body with this stuff makes it crazy tough, and also waterproof. At least wherever the foam is.  IInteresting thought. But the stuff would probably not be cost effective for the roof…. 
 

I am not sure on the battery input for the EcoFlow Wave. I couldn’t actually see that plug. There is another power input that takes an XT60 or XT90 plug.  It is a standard plug you would find on a LiPo battery used for RC stuff. I think this is where the Solar input goes.  Apparently it can take a direct solar input up to 35v and 200watt. 
 

I have the same thought. And how that plug can be utilized would be the game changer. At $1100 sale price without their special battery, it is tempting. But at $1700 with their battery it becomes a little less so. They have a whole power system with solar generators and all those goodies. The AC unit is an add on accessory to their system.   I couldn’t figure out the answer to that. That is definitely something to dig into further and email or call them before pulling the trigger. 
 

One customer comment I saw said you couldn’t charge it and run it at the same time…. 

[WME]

Found  the FAQ.  So here is plan B. Buy the basic unit and run it off a inverter using YOUR batteries. The AC power requirement is 600w 

Renogy has a 2000w inverter/charger that is lipo comparable. Their 1000w inverter/charger won't do lipo, but does all the others.

So a Renogy 200ah AGM and the 1000w inverter charger would be about $700

A Renogy 200ah LIPO and the 2000w inverter charger would be $1600.

200ah translates into about 2400wh

 

[Maineah]

Dude you got a mess there well butchered over the years. Once upon a time it had a dam the AC unit fit over higher than the roof. In a mess like that I have used nylon cord to cut loose the sealant people have added. Many people have thrown away the rectangular piece that comes with the AC gasket that actually is a support for the rear of the AC unit. Good luck best of wishes.

[thewanderlustking]

Good tip on the Renogy inverters WME!  I have a LOT more study to do, but yeah that's the basic plan outline I am going to use.  For now it means one important thing, I need to build a new bracing framework to support the AC unit...  I can be cheap and just put a vent in for now.  I won't be spending the big chunks until we can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  I need a usable interior first!    

 

Yeah no kidding Maineah!!!  But hey I got it off the roof!  I am heading out there in a few minutes to work some more on the cleanup.  I used a combination of brute force with a long bit of rebar, a torch, a cable saw, a Dremel vibratory saw, and plenty of cursing to get it off....  

 

Unfortunately the worst part is the repairs I made using the flex seal tape, on top of the older repairs.  That stuff sure doesn't cut easily!   

 

Well I just heard thunder, I am at least going to go get a little clean up done and then chill out inside it when the sky opens up and look for leaks.  It smelled humid/damp in there this morning so I probably still have a couple more to chase down.    

 

 

  

[outdoorlover]

I suggest you use the portable power station directly, of course, it has another name, called solar generator, it can supply power to almost 98% of electrical equipment, you can first understand what is Best Solar Generator For RV Air Conditioner.

 

From powering up your mobile phones, turning on lights at night, and keeping your RV air conditioners on, you will need the best generator your budget can allow.

 

Especially if you absolutely must have a cool setting for comfort, you will need the best generator for RV air conditioner, one of the appliances that require the most power.

[WME]

DIY solar generator...

Lots of info on diy solar and solar ac

[thewanderlustking]

That is super interesting WME!  I am going to have to watch the v1.0 video on the laptop shortly!  
 

I am rethinking my anti-(gas) generator stance….  You guys win lol!  Of course I will complicate it by adding my own ideas to the mix, but that’s expected by now!!! 🤣 

 

Hurricane Ian was an eye opener. First off the old generator I have is noisy garbage. But my new 2000w Wen generator is AWESOME and QUIET. Also, it is pretty light and fairly small. 

We ended up playing musical generators and lending the Wen to my buddy Viktor, and borrowing an even larger one from my neighbor. It was SO LOUD, we actually ordered another Wen generator.  This one has an electric start and some other awesome features. Like one, it hooks up to the 30 amp RV plug directly. When I went back to check specs, I saw another “dual fuel” power generator and took a closer look. That one runs off of propane or gas!  It was double the price though at like $1300. 
 

So I went looking for a conversation kit, and surprise I found one!!!  The conversation kit makes it 3 fuel comparable.  Propane, LPG, and gas. Not sure what the difference between LPG and propane is, but it seems to be the regulator type. Anyways the kit is fairly cheap at $190.  

 

(That is a weird rabbit hole, a quick Google search says they are the same, and different...)
 

I am not sure I want a big genny hanging off the rear bumper though…. And also pretty sure I don’t have enough space to enlarge or build  a compartment anywhere for it. But the smaller one might actually be doable.  And if I have a clean/empty gas tank, the smaller guy could actually be stored inside the RV.   

 

The big guy hasn’t arrived yet. Oddly, it is delayed. Heh….  When it/if it ever gets here I will see what I am working with.  It is 3800watts. The smaller one is 2000watts. 

 

The extra layer of security and the additional fuel option area huge bonus.  We usually stockpile gas for hurricane season. So when we heard it was headed our way, we didn’t need to run out and fill all the cans up. But even so, we were out of power for almost 9 days and went through over 100 gallons of gas!!!  Twice, we had to go hunting all over town as most of the stations were out. LPG doesn’t need to be used and refilled every year. And isn’t really effected when there is a natural disaster.  

 

I need to go to the local filling station though and have them give it a look over, or even take some pictures and post them up here for you guys to look at.  I know my system works and doesn't leak at least.  It has had something like 1/2 a tank since I got it.  I also tried to get the fridge working on propane, so it was probably on for at least a day or two then.  I turned it on a couple times to use the stove also.  I do leave the valve shut the rest of the time.    

Edited October 11, 2022 by thewanderlustking

[WME]

The question is... are you trying to run a house or an RV?

[Maineah]

Yeah a big difference I don't think my 5KW house use generator would fit well on the back of a camper! 

[thewanderlustking]

The answer is “both options”.  We went through 125+ gallons of gas and twice had trouble finding it. Another fuel option gives us another layer of protection in an emergency. 
 

Yeah the smaller one will probably make the most sense to use for dual fuel and as the primary RV genny.  But the other one doesn’t look to be that much bigger…

 

Alright so here is the Wen 2000kw generator that I have already. It powered my buddies place for a week. So it can run the fridge, fan, lights at least. 

• Dimensions: 18" x 11" x 18" | Weight: 48 lbs
• Noise Level: 53 dB operation

Here is the bigger Wen 3800kw generator we ordered. 

• Dimensions: 23.2" L x 18" W x 20.1" H | Weight: 99.2 lb
• Noise Level: 58 dB operation

It is double the weight, but the footprint isn’t doubled. 

 

The decision might be made for us though. It still hasn’t even shipped out and it is supposed to be here by Thursday, or I (can) get refunded. 

 

The reasons for possibly changing my mind and considering the genny as an option now, are how well and quietly the Wen performed. And the conversion solves my biggest issue with powering the RV off a generator. Gas. It stinks and requires potentially messy transportation.   
 

The smaller one can easily be set inside the RV for storage (if gas isn’t being run in the tank).  I don’t think that will be the case with the larger one. 
 

 

[WME]

Propane and LPG are the same, but not all LPG is propane, perfectly clear right?🤔

Most Tri-fuel generators are propane, natural gas and gasoline. 

 

FWIW this is my Zombie Apocalypse set up. 

3500w HF inverter generator, with a home made portable A frame shelter. Shelter is for noise and rain/snow. For the generator I keep 3 gallons of sealed long term storage fuel in metal cans. The generator is stored empty of fuel. The 3 gallons will last for 1 day. For squirrel induced outages or a car hitting a power pole that's enough fuel. But if a forecasted disaster shows up on the radar, a quick trip to the gas station gets me 20 gal of generator gas and 60 gallons in the RV just in case things go south. It takes about 5-10 min to drag the generator out of storage, hook it up, fuel it and get things back on line.

I have a manual transfer switch that has 6 circuit breakers.  Lights, heater fan, microwave/fridges, TV/computer/charger for wife's CPAP "solar generator", washer/drier motors.
I have natural gas for heat, hot water, cooking and a clothes drier. Things just normally coast at night, without the generator. Our "disasters" are usually a blizzard so no AC, but HEAT is good. The unused breaker feeds a dedicated outlet in the bedroom just in case there is a summer disaster and we need a small window AC for a while.

The solar panels are maybe ,depending on things, not much solar gain in a whiteout with 40 mph winds

The RV can always become the lifeboat, as in leave before the storm. 

I guess your disasters are different and Ca. has fires and earthquakes, so a bit of adjustment is needed.

 

[thewanderlustking]

The disasters an area faces has a lot to do with the plan. But so does the people dealing with it. I’ve been through enough of them that I know panicking at the last moment is the absolute worst thing to do. If you decide to evacuate, do it well in advance. Shelter in place, well then STAY battened down. While Ian didn’t officially make landfall until 3pm, by 10am it was already very dangerous to be outside. And afterwards is probably even more dangerous.  Mum lost a neighbor. She had to work that night and got washed away in a flash flood going home in the morning. She was in a big dually truck too. 
 

But yeah, moving onto pleasant things I’m just grateful that my friends and family are all safe. And preparation is key. 

[thewanderlustking]

So the roof lol!  I didn’t grab any more good pictures of the mess. But once I cleaned it off I found a bunch more problem areas. The original skin was put on in panels. And some of the seams had failed. Once I knew they were there, I actually found some of the other seams pretty easily.  know how far apart they are and where the hidden ones should be too. 
 

I also uncovered a bunch of pinholes. My fix for all of that was to utilize the EPDM and tar stuff I peeled off. I cleaned up everything with a wire wheel, then heated it up with a torch  and flowed the tar into it. I let it mostly cool down, then rolled it smooth with a heavy wallpaper roller. 
 

 

Stuff wasn’t as scrubbed clean as I would have liked, but that didn’t seem to matter.  This Henry 887 stuff was messy to put on. I use a combo of small paint roller, large paint roller with 1/2 nap, and a paintbrush. I poured it into a pitcher so I could reseal the bucket. Then poured it on, rolled it out, brushed in the corners and other hard to get spots. 
 

 

it came out pretty good!  I need to go put another coat on, but I will probably wait until the rest is complete.  Like the vent fan is down etc. 

 

I taped the front and sealed 6-8” past the front seam. It looked really nice when done and I went far enough past it I can recoat without taping again. 

 

I finished about an hour before the first bands of rain started hitting us. It skims over FAST though. The safe time was 15 minutes. 

[thewanderlustking]

Well I am still undecided on the AC solution…. That section of the roof was a problem before, and was never very well braced.  About 2-3’ back would be a much better spot. If I even put a roof mounted AC back up there. 
 

We shall see. For now at least I have a nice solution!  I scored this at a substantial discount. It’s a Maxxair 6200K. Pretty cool. It can operate with the cover up, and still keep the rain out. With the solar and house battery, it can be left on auto mode and keep circulating. 
 

 

It was cheaper as it was missing mounting screws and the trim surround inside is cracked. But the damage is in the tunnel, and my roof is really thin. So it will be cut off anyways.  These things are silly expensive at almost $300. I got it for  $180.  

It can operate off it’s control panel, or a remote (not included of course).
 

There were cheaper fans.  Some for $50 on Amazon. But small fans and looked, cheap.  There were more expensive ones with rain sensors and auto close. But that’s something else to break. And they were about $180. The Maxxair brand is always highly spoken of. And the fact that the lid can be up and still keep the rain out was a big selling point. I am done with water inside. It should be worth the extra quality and security!  
 

Sooo AC….  I definitely want AC for Florida summers. But the reality, is we have never gone camping in summer here before. So if I even NEED it is the first thing to figure out. Right now I need the heater working more than the AC on.  I’ve never checked that lol…

 

The plan to redo the ceiling, will also let me get in there later and add in more bracing if need be.  

 

[linda s]

I've had one of these on my Sunrader roof since I first got it. AC didn't work so I trashed it and put this on. I must have bought it when they first came out. Almost 20 years and the plastic is still perfect and showing no signs of exposed plastic brittleness. Still works as good as the day I got it

Linda S

[WME]

My 30 ft Winne Brave has a 10 speed Fantastic Fan, a 13.5K btu AC and a 11K btu AC. The fan gets used the most. Both ACs at the same time is a Las Vegas thing.

The fan on low exhaust mode and an open window does wonders at night in the mountains. Fantastic Fan and Maxxair are the good stuff. The other brands are somewhere between poor and a bathroom vent fan capability.

Edited October 21, 2022 by WME

[thewanderlustking]

Super awesome to hear!  Yeah they are HIGHLY spoken of in the van building community. I still wasn’t sure it was worth the $180 for “just a fan” though and that it would mostly replace an ac, but it sounds like it was a good choice!   
 

It is a 10 speed version.  I kinda want a remote for it.  They are a little expensive at $60 though.