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frp in the shower is to keep the water out of the wall. on you exterior walls the siding is to keep the water out.  if the siding leaks there will be evidence inside.  if your insides are waterproof and the siding leaks--how do you know, and how can it dry out

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Looks like there's a difference of opinion on FRP. I'm sure someone on here suggested using it. Also I found another thread in which someone was talking about using Marlite on the interior ceiling. Willing to hear opinions for and against - not doing a lot on the interior right now.

 

It looks like the walls I took pictures of yesterday are drying out. However, I uncovered more black wood in one of the cabinets, and the ceiling was sagging in that cabinet too - the one over the big side window next to the door. That's the only place it sags, though. So this is my plan over the next week:

- Buy supplies, including caulk/sealant (the self-leveling Dicor stuff) and butyl tape

- Seal the exterior. Do I start with the joints/seams and around the AC unit and vents? Or with the windows?

- Apply something to the black wood on the inside to dry it out. What? I saw something called Concrobium. Any good?

- Bomb the camper.

Sound good or is there another priority? 

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FRP is a bit heavy, but it's everything proof. "Old skool" marlite was Masonite with a painted surface it did OK in a damp environment, but was no good in a wet environment. The new marlite is FRP with a pattern molded in Same weight as plain FRP, but way sexier.

 https://marlite.com/artizan-digitally-printed-frp/ 

Luan or door skin are real wood and available in many different grains, varnished they can be awesome.

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 Check your actual seal on the A/C. It's not going to do any good to seal if the A/C seal is no good. They aren't expensive and really not that hard to change. If it looks like your A/C is sitting on the roof it needs replaced. With a new gasket it will sit up off the roof.

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  • 2 weeks later...

First glance, NO. If you expand the full spec sheet, it says dry conditions only. I think that means no showers

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yep. it's hardboard. scratch it and the board will suck up water

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i think it doesnt look bad.  not done yet.decided to eliminate the sink. anyone want it?

20210816_153444.jpg

20210816_153435.jpg

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Yeah, it doesn't look too bad. I checked what was available yesterday at my local Home Depot - one *single* sheet, which I didn't buy (didn't feel like loading it on top of my Nissan Rogue, and then having to go back for more another time). But I'll look around at other stores.

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More surprises from Pandora's box:

- I don't have the keys to open any of the outside compartments (water tank, etc.). Thought maybe I could drill the locks, then use Velcro to secure all the doors. What do you think? Is there one key to open them all? If there is, can I buy that somewhere?

- The two main parts of the sofa have proper suspension, metal frames with straps and complicated clips to fasten the outer fabric. They add weight and they're rusted. Do I need those frames? Has anyone gotten rid of them and wished they hadn't? Anyone want them?

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1 hour ago, Plain Jane said:

Yeah, it doesn't look too bad. I checked what was available yesterday at my local Home Depot - one *single* sheet, which I didn't buy (didn't feel like loading it on top of my Nissan Rogue, and then having to go back for more another time). But I'll look around at other stores.


Most big box stores just stock one, maybe two, varieties, but you can definitely order many different textures and colors if desired. (Menards is local to me; I ordered two sheets of textured Nudo-brand FRP from them on my shower rebuild.)

 

I’d definitely recommend practicing a few cuts on a small scrap; it’s not the easiest material to handle, not like cutting ply or lauan. 

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i used a multi tool with the round wood blade. a couple passes and it separates easily.  even took it to homi d's to make the sheets small enough to fit in my vehicle

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I once took a key to a camper place to get a spare made. He pulled one off the shelf and told me it was a standard key that fit lots of compartments. That being said, I had at least three different keys for stuff. So I looked on Amazon and bought a package of cam locks that were keyed the same. Each lock came with both a straight and an angled cam and two keys. Now I have 16 of the same key for 4 outside compartments - I'll never run out of keys!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

FRP panels are up in shower, but there are gaps of up to 1" due to sloppy measurement and cutting. Is there a product like a strip to seal those gaps? Some are fillable with silicone bathroom caulk, but a couple are too wide for that.

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 I'm not being flippant or dismissive of your question, this is what I really do. When doing a project and I need something and there are no real instructions or kits I go to Lowes or Home Depot or wherever and just look around and see what I can find that I think might work. 

 

 There are corner strips you can buy but the best bet is to get a good idea on how wide you need and go look and see if you can find one. 

 

 Like this is 2 1/2 inches.

 

 https://www.grainger.com/product/PAWLING-CORP-Corner-Guard-49JP30?opr=PDPSDSP&analytics=dssubItems_49JP26&position=2

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Thanks, John Thomas. Going and looking around would be my impulse too but I'm trying to limit my time in stores, not only because of the pandemic but because of my budget right now. Last week in a minor victory I managed to run in to HD, buy a piece of FRP, and get out before buying anything else, and I'd like to keep doing it that way until things get better.

On a related note, has anyone ever noticed FRP releasing a fragrance like carnations or gardenias when you're cutting it? I know that sounds weird. I'm thinking maybe it absorbed the smell from something like soap or incense nearby during shipping, but just wondered.

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One trick to use when remodeling is save the old panel or piece your removing and use as a template for the replacement piece.

If that’s not possible, make a template with builders paper and transfer to the new work. Instructions can be found on YouTube or many box stores sell a do it yourself kit for vinyl floors. Same principle, just vertical rather than horizontal (for walls).

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Thanks all. I found the product that Linda S suggested at Home Depot and was able to get in and out with it in almost no time - thank goodness for CSRs who actually listen to what you're saying! Fred, I did make a paper template before cutting. It worked in most of the oddly shaped corners! 

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  • 2 months later...

Next problem, and hopefully the last: the onboard (i.e. not city) water supply. I tried to figure out what keywords work to research this problem here, so forgive me if I'm not using the right terms.

The water tank has water in it, and the pump works, but it's not pumping into the faucets. From what I've read, it seems like the water heater can be a problem sometimes, but I'm not even getting cold water. ??? 

Knowing what water problems are common with Toyota motorhomes of this vintage would help, or even an explanation of the way the pump is supposed to work. I am NOT NOT NOT talking about the water pump in the engine. 

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I'm sure that others with more experience will chime in... here a few misc. thoughts on pump and water system:

  • How old is the pump and/or what's the make/model? They definitely don't last forever; sometimes just a few years, I believe.
  • Does your pump have a small filter mounted in front of it? Those can get jammed with crud.
  • You mentioned your pump works—does it kick on and then run continuously OR kick on, run for a few secs, and shut off? If it just runs and runs, then it can't develop pressure because of a) possibly a faulty impeller which means new-pump-needed OR b) water is just running out somewhere from an open valve or break in your system (watch beneath coach while running pump to spy any leaks).
  • A good, working pump in a watertight system should kick on initially for a couple seconds when you hit the switch and build pressure, then kick off automatically until water is called for and pressure drops.

Hope that helps!

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There is also the hidden PO installed winterization bypass and antifreeze inlet valve.

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13 minutes ago, Ctgriffi said:
  • You mentioned your pump works—does it kick on and then run continuously OR kick on, run for a few secs, and shut off? If it just runs and runs, then it can't develop pressure because of a) possibly a faulty impeller which means new-pump-needed OR b) water is just running out somewhere from an open valve or break in your system (watch beneath coach while running pump to spy any leaks)

It definitely just runs and runs. I did try to disconnect the tubing that comes straight from the tank and put my finger against the opening, and there was no "pull" or vacuum effect, but don't know if that's normal. All of the valves and pipes seem to be visible in the cabin under the sofa bed, and there's no leak.

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The pumps can be finicky they sort of need water to pump water. Have you opening a tap as close to the pump as possible with out the others open?

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