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Hi,

Rookie question here: Anyone know a good source for parts for our 87 Toyota Dolphin (22RE, auto trans)? I'm specifically looking for a driveshaft slip yoke for the auto trans right now. Also when searching Camarata and enter the VIN, it sends me to a Toyota 4Runner for parts. Is this the base model for these?

 

Thanks!

Abe

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When searching for parts, the model is really a Toyota Pickup, although it often comes up as 4Runner when I check, too. (Sidenote: many times, the year of a motorhome is one year after the production year of the actual cab-and-chassis unit—yours might be an 86 Toyota Pickup.)

 

RockAuto.com works well for me and lots of others: good catalog and good prices.

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If you have a lot of play in the yoke don't put it off they are available. Replace the bushing in the tail stock. The bushing and yoke are also the support for the output shaft inside the transmission. When they fail the governor sealing rings dig into the transmission case read transmission overhaul.

 

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20 hours ago, Ctgriffi said:

When searching for parts, the model is really a Toyota Pickup, although it often comes up as 4Runner when I check, too. (Sidenote: many times, the year of a motorhome is one year after the production year of the actual cab-and-chassis unit—yours might be an 86 Toyota Pickup.)

 

RockAuto.com works well for me and lots of others: good catalog and good prices.

Thanks, it looks like it is a 1986.

 

14 hours ago, Maineah said:

If you have a lot of play in the yoke don't put it off they are available. Replace the bushing in the tail stock. The bushing and yoke are also the support for the output shaft inside the transmission. When they fail the governor sealing rings dig into the transmission case read transmission overhaul.

 

Thanks. Can I just drop the driveline and pull the yoke out to replace both of those (yoke and bushing) or need to do something at the transmission?

My mechanic showed me some wear at the part of the yoke that enters the tranny (it's an automatic). He had replaced the back seal to try to stop a small leak but its leaking worse now so he's thinking this is the next step. I was hoping to do it myself if it's not too difficult.

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usually the bushing is worn since it is a softer material than the yoke.  likely you won't be able to swap it out youself. the part it goes into is called the extension housing

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It can be done in the back yard but you will need things like a bushing driver. You could remove the extension housing an take it to a transmission shop and let them replace the bushing. If there is any ware on the yoke replace it. They are actually very good transmissions but they did have some quirky problems one of them was the way the output shaft was supported by the yoke and the bushing I can't stress how important that could be to your bank account if it's ignored.

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1 hour ago, Maineah said:

It can be done in the back yard but you will need things like a bushing driver. You could remove the extension housing an take it to a transmission shop and let them replace the bushing. If there is any ware on the yoke replace it. They are actually very good transmissions but they did have some quirky problems one of them was the way the output shaft was supported by the yoke and the bushing I can't stress how important that could be to your bank account if it's ignored.

Thanks for the info. 

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  • 1 year later...
On 7/21/2021 at 11:26 AM, Maineah said:

It can be done in the back yard but you will need things like a bushing driver. You could remove the extension housing an take it to a transmission shop and let them replace the bushing. If there is any ware on the yoke replace it. They are actually very good transmissions but they did have some quirky problems one of them was the way the output shaft was supported by the yoke and the bushing I can't stress how important that could be to your bank account if it's ignored.

Any idea where to find the yoke?

My mechanic replaced the bushing and rear seal but that turned out to be a temporary fix and the leak has increased. Before replacing them, he showed my the yoke which had a groove worn in it. I'd like to replace it if parts are available.

 

Thanks,

Abe

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See if SKF makes one of these for your yoke...https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

Full on redneck hack, only drive the seal in about 2/3 the way. This may let the seal lip move far enough to ride on a smooth part of the yoke

Edited by WME
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i bet any wrecking yard will have a toyota pu you can get the drive shaft from. swap out the yoke

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I decided to go for it and replace the yoke and u-joint and the extension housing seal and bushing. I removed the extension housing and noticed there was a loose rubber seal/spring inside the housing (loose around the tail shaft). Does anyone know what that is? Is it a part of the seal that came loose? Or perhaps the shop that put the seal in for me last time added it to help stop the leak?? My new seal and other parts are shipping so I don't have anything to compare it to yet. 

IMG_0763.jpg

IMG_0764.jpg

IMG_0766.jpg

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if you pop that seal out i bet you find it doesn't have a gator spring in it.  don't know about the rubber part

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2 hours ago, extech said:

if you pop that seal out i bet you find it doesn't have a gator spring in it.  don't know about the rubber part

The spring fits inside the rubber part. Fits in a groove on the outside of the rubber to keep tension I think.

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Ok, I received the parts and everything actually matches as far as I can tell. Now looking at the new seal, it looks like the little rubber part with the spring was the remnants of the

old seal which must've fell out and off. the only thing remaining attached was the metal dust shield.

 

0.jpeg.f3d510e738644135680d2522ae6576d8.jpeg

 

 

 

TONS of play when jiggling the old yoke in the old bushing and pitting at the yoke. But new yoke and bushing are much tighter. In fact, too tight to insert the yoke when I installed the new bushing. 

IMG_0788.jpg.fbff68bdf0209ef45e78ca04668c81f2.jpg

IMG_0789.jpg.24d1c93c2090626d2a7eba934de26034.jpg

 

0-2.jpeg.7db1291194ea4caf4be64ca5e0e8974d.jpeg

 

Questions: 

 

1. I plan on bringing the new yoke and the extension housing with new bushing to a machine shop to hone the bushing so the yoke will slide in (it currently won't go in). Is that the proper thing to do? Are there specs somewhere for this?

 

2. For the rear seal, I don't have any reference as to how the seal is to be put in (since the old one was destroyed). There's 3 pieces- a rubberish seal, a felt seal, and a dust cover. Which orientation does the rubber seal go in to the extension housing?

IMG_0790.jpg.9052369d3e090ef8d7120397428559a3.jpg

Left one is the rubber seal. Does it go in the housing this way?

IMG_0791.jpg.8b42d53a333e27e8e57309bce6b6ba32.jpg

Or this way?

 

Thanks for all your help!

 

Abe

0-1.jpeg

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The seal with the spring goes in as you show it last - flat face outward.  The shop will machine the bushing most likely, (vs yoke)and they"ll know what a standard oil clearance should be. As for the felt seal, if you cannot definitively determine its location, I would suggest installing it after the rubber seal.  I base that on the need for the new rubber seal to have some oil to spin in, and also the felt's likely function to capture grit coming from outside and keep it from the seal's lip.  FYI, I always smear that new rubber lip with a bit of grease, and a film on the shaft as it goes in. You never want a dry seal lip as it can be damaged in the time it takes to get oil from the housing.  A few seconds of dry spinning can take a lot of wear off that seal lip.

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10 hours ago, IdahoDoug said:

The seal with the spring goes in as you show it last - flat face outward.  The shop will machine the bushing most likely, (vs yoke)and they"ll know what a standard oil clearance should be. As for the felt seal, if you cannot definitively determine its location, I would suggest installing it after the rubber seal.  I base that on the need for the new rubber seal to have some oil to spin in, and also the felt's likely function to capture grit coming from outside and keep it from the seal's lip.  FYI, I always smear that new rubber lip with a bit of grease, and a film on the shaft as it goes in. You never want a dry seal lip as it can be damaged in the time it takes to get oil from the housing.  A few seconds of dry spinning can take a lot of wear off that seal lip.

Awesome. Thank you for your help!

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Ok, I took the yoke and housing with new bushing to a machine shop. Turned out it was just a small burr keeping it from sliding in easy and moving smoothly. I reassembled everything. The play in the yoke was gone and all looked good. Took it for a test drive and a much smaller leak was still there coming out from where the output shaft/extension housing meets the yoke. Not as much but still a pretty decent leak. Can't see anything because of the large metal dust covers on both pieces.

 

I'm wondering about my technique installing the seal itself. I pounded it in the first time and it seemed to cave in in the middle and the spring fell off inside the housing. I pulled it and tried again but did not install it as far to hopefully keep the spring in place and prevent an uneven install. Guess I could have damaged the seal when pulling it back out with a puller but I'm worried I din not push it in far enough? I didn't take a pic but the metal dust ring (behind the felt washer and rubber seal) was flush with the lip of the extension housing it fits in, but I think it could have gone in farther.

 

I plan on dropping the driveline again and putting in a new seal so just looking for some pointers for that part. 

Thanks!

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Yeah, in my experience pulling a seal and reusing it is a formula for a leak, unfortunately.  If it caved in in the middle, whatever you were pushing it in with was not large enough in diameter.  You can use a socket, a piece of pipe, heck, I've even used a piece of PVC pipe to push in oil seals. Find something as close to the full diameter as possible.  Then a few gentle taps to get the seal started on its way and switch to the socket/pipe/etc to spread the load of further pounding.  I'd also recommend for this use, to purchase a genuine Toyota seal.  Toyota's parts are known for being quality, and the price difference on such a small part will just be a few bucks even from a dealer.  Aftermarket stuff has really gone downhill and your report of the seal bending probably means it's thinner metal, etc.  Sounds like you got the installed depth right. 

 

Be sure to put a smear of grease on the shaft when inserting it into the seal, and also a film of grease on the seal's lip before inserting the shaft.  If you don't lube this way, pushing the shaft in can displace the spring and you'll never know it.  Until it starts leaking a year later without the seal pressure from the spring...

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I even pack a bit of grease inside the seal around the spring to stabilize it, so the shock of install doesn't jar it loose.

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9 hours ago, IdahoDoug said:

Yeah, in my experience pulling a seal and reusing it is a formula for a leak, unfortunately.  If it caved in in the middle, whatever you were pushing it in with was not large enough in diameter.  You can use a socket, a piece of pipe, heck, I've even used a piece of PVC pipe to push in oil seals. Find something as close to the full diameter as possible.  Then a few gentle taps to get the seal started on its way and switch to the socket/pipe/etc to spread the load of further pounding.  I'd also recommend for this use, to purchase a genuine Toyota seal.  Toyota's parts are known for being quality, and the price difference on such a small part will just be a few bucks even from a dealer.  Aftermarket stuff has really gone downhill and your report of the seal bending probably means it's thinner metal, etc.  Sounds like you got the installed depth right. 

 

Be sure to put a smear of grease on the shaft when inserting it into the seal, and also a film of grease on the seal's lip before inserting the shaft.  If you don't lube this way, pushing the shaft in can displace the spring and you'll never know it.  Until it starts leaking a year later without the seal pressure from the spring...

Ok thanks, will do. I have a Toyota seal on order. 

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