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18' Sunrader Roof Beam


Erika

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This is a continuation of a conversation on a different thread, but specific to our build.

 

This is the initial discussion:

 

We are following the suggestions/directions posted by Linda using the following materials.

 

MATERIALS:

 

·       2x4 8ft Douglas Fir (We did not have Red Fir Available to us).

·       1-1/2 in. x 96 in. Aluminum Flat Bar with 1/8 in. Thick

·       2 QTY 5/16" by 3" BLACK outdoor lag bolts 

·       2QTY Flat Washers BLACL Outdoor

·       2QTY Rubber Washers 5/16x1- 1/14

·       10 to 15QTY #10 1” Wood Screws

·       Liquid Nails Fuze It Max Construction Adhesive

·       3M Marine Adhesive/Silicone Caulk

 

The directions are listed on the post link above.

 

Our specific question now is how do we remove the wood that is currently fiberglassed to the cieling?

 

@linda sdo you by chance have the measurements for the beam location that you referenced? We were going to place it just before the wood that holds the meeting pont betweein the rear cieling panel and the middle cieling panel, but if there was a specific point that you were suggesting we would love to know.

 

Thank you so much and stay tuned for updates.

 

Images below is where we currently are.

 

-Erika

 

20210530_142644 20210530_142653

 

20210530_142706 20210530_142650 20210530_142647

 

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Well you've ripped the entire ceiling out. The beam I told you about was supposed to give support in conjunction with an existing ceiling which I explained was designed as composite structural support. By the way it goes about 22 to 24 inches behind the bathroom wall. You have nothing left to attach new ceiling panels either. you might be better off with just several thinner wood beams fiberglassed to the roof making sure you add a slight  curve . There are a number of guys here who have done this. I will try to find some pics

Linda S

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I know there were a couple of members who did this in the last year or so but I can't for the life of me find any of them. Hopefully they will join the conversation to help

Linda S

Derek was my finder guy. God I miss him

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I miss him too!

Edited by lansisco
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Hi Erica,

The way I removed the plywood from the ceiling/coach walls was to borrow a 4'" battery circular saw (Makita?) and set the depth for 1/16" less than the thickness of the plywood, and make cuts every 2" or so down the plywood strips. You can then take a sharp 1 1/2" chisel and hammer, and knock those 2" chunks off (carefully). It sounds like a lot, but it may surprise you how easily some of the old material pops off. When you get next to a wall, after working across the ceiling, put something behind the plywood you are knocking the chunks out of, to keep from putting the chisel thru the corner of the wall after it cuts out the chunk. To remove the remaining 1/16" ply stuck to the ceiling, use a disc-sander w/80 grit or an angle-grinder w/a 4" #80 sanding disc (Harvard Freight $20?)  A fan inside the coach may help. Hint: Buy a Tyvek zip-up suit for $8-10 so you don't get sawdust and ground fiberglass down your back and a good respirator mask for the fiberglass dust.

BR,

TG

 

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I would recommend using gorilla glue heavy duty construction adhesive ultimate for gluing wood to the fiberglass. I tried liquid nailz fuze-all and didn't have success of it bonding wood to fiberglass after letting it sit for a few days. I could just pull the strips away by hand. Also make sure to clean the fiberglass well with acetone before trying to glue anything to it, makes a huge difference in the adhesion and bonding. 

 

as for taking down the old ceiling, when i got to that stage i just use a paint scraper and hammer and chiseled the wood strips away from the ceiling. in the few spots i couldn't chisel away i used a sander with 80 grit like toyoguy

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