Jopacabra Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) I've wanted a sunrader for a long time... In an ideal world it'd be an automatic 18ft V6 4x4 gutted to the fiberglass. Yesterday, I found this posting 4 hours after it went up: https://elpaso.craigslist.org/rvs/d/el-paso-1986-nissan-rv-sunrader-class/7290771167.html I saw it, drove it, and settled on a deal for it for $5000. It's a v4 stick 5 speed, 2wd. 6 lug floating rear dually axel. Frame and fiberglass looks really good. Hood has some painted over drip rust, but whatever. Looks like it has had a tiny leak by the roof vent and two windows. No biggie, I plan to redo them, of course. The trouble is, it actually runs pretty poorly. Been sitting at least a year, but it was having trouble getting over 50 after warming up on the highway for 30 minutes. It also doesn't want to idle. In addition, someone gutted the exhaust, intentionally slitting the muffler in a bunch of places (I assume to reduce back pressure. I don't know much about exhaust systems, just the principle). I think I just need to swap the air filter, sparks, and clean the carb and it would do well. It starts like a champ completely cold (no starter fluid, of course). The interior is fine, but pretty janky. All the latches are broken and things are held together with Velcro. I don't know what works and what doesn't... It had no house battery. I'm not terribly concerned about the interior because I plan to gut it and renovate completely, but I'm obviously paying for it being semi-intact. I'm not great at stick, but I drive fine. I figure it will up my gas mileage if I don't suck. Basically, my question is am I crazy? I went into it not planning to jump above $4000, but I landed where I landed. I still have the power to back out, but I really want this thing. What do you guys think? Is $5000 too much? Am I just being blinded by how badly I want it? Edited March 14, 2021 by Jopacabra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopacabra Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 Well, I snagged it. I'll post an update or two on the power when I put in some work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 I think you got a great price. The z24 engine is a good solid engine but it is prone to head gasket issues. Just keep an eye on it and stay ahead of the game. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddy Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 I say congratulations! I waited and searched long time each time, as you know these don't turn over much, & I paid more for each of mine! I'm planning on gutting also, & there is SO much information here! My first one I pretty much just drove as was, sold for truck camper- uncomfortable! So happy to be working on a Sunrader again. Yours looks better than many on the interior! Do you have maintenance records from seller?? Very helpful if so. I just installed new leaf springs & am waiting on shocks, which I'd imagine you might want to look into as well unless done prior. It does look high in back, so perhaps done? You can get that engine purring! Whoopie Jopacabra! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopacabra Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 27 minutes ago, linda s said: I think you got a great price. 10 minutes ago, Freddy said: I say congratulations! Thanks!!! I am feeling really good about it now that it's sitting here by my old van. I've been full-timing in a Chevy G20 class B, so this will be a huge upgrade in comfort once I move over all of my solar and such. 32 minutes ago, linda s said: The z24 engine is a good solid engine but it is prone to head gasket issues. I have been reading that, yes... I did a compression test on one cylinder, came out 120psi. Factory was 160psi, I believe. I felt mega rushed, so I didn't check the other four. Very silly. Tomorrow's work is new air filter, new sparks, new battery, and compression tests on the other cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopacabra Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) 27 minutes ago, Freddy said: Do you have maintenance records from seller?? Very helpful if so. I just installed new leaf springs & am waiting on shocks, which I'd imagine you might want to look into as well unless done prior. It does look high in back, so perhaps done? No maintenance records... Leaf springs already in the back, I think pistons in the front? I'm not super well versed on suspension components and the like. I thought that was all stock! That's awesome if that's all upgrades! I was in fact thinking it was high in the back. Are these front pistons adjustable? Is it smart to keep the front low? Just thinking about cooking my eggs, to be honest. I hate it when they flow over to one side of the pan! My eventual dream is a 4x4 conversion. I'm planning to test it out on some dirt and gravel roads to go climbing this weekend. Very excited to see how it compares to the old van. Edited March 16, 2021 by Jopacabra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddy Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Hi again! Me also excited Newbie-My dream a 4x4 conversion as well- starting with external safety- springs, shocks, driveline, LIGHTS (I'm SOOOo excited, coming soon- report to follow) any other priorities others suggest... then interior livability and insulation did alternator, radiator flush as needed with that, plugs (my wires were new looking..) Looking at ur pics those look like original springs to me, flat looking and old looking- but ask others? here's a photo of my old vs. the just installed- P.S. if you want any specific info I've spent HOURS perusing different topics here, making folders of bookmarks, threads of this forum, and would be pleased to share so you don't have to- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddy Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Your spring shackles may be aftermarket tho? P.S. I want to link you to "New Owner maintenance Checklist" thread here.... dunno how? I'm new to this forum format so I just copied and pasted... Diff members have diff preferences on some things but all advice seems tested. Again, I'm just beginning myself. I'm sure I'll get some corrective guidance on this copying thing (sorry?!) but I've had an interesting time searching topics, with diff results diff times... Seems there might be a place for "Stickies" containing Newbie FAQs... docforster Newbie Members 4 posts My Toyota Motorhome: 1987 Odyssey Location: Austin, TX Posted January 27, 2015 May I suggest a sticky with a list of ‘mechanical’ things to be checked or replaced outright when getting a used Toy. (I’m not including camper items / appliances, etc). It would be nice if it could also serve as a quick reference / resource list for the more common maintenance requirements. The forum contains a wealth of information, but being a new Toy owner, it is a little daunting trying to get info on simpler items, while wishing to avoid being a nuisance ‘duplicate’ poster with previously addressed questions. After trawling for a few hrs, this is a list I have made. I will endeavor to make it a ‘living’ document by adding any suggestions / recommendations / omissions FLUIDS: Replace all fluids - Flush coolant system. When selecting a coolant...stick with the GOOD STUFF - Transmission: If you drained it and let it set, the converter will slowly drain into the pan until it gets below the bottom of the front pump. There is a lot of oil hiding in there. The dry fill is somewhere around 9 qts. One recommendation is to drain and fill 3 x, drain and fill and drive around and then drain and fill. - Change the engine oil. Mineral oil: recommendation: Shell Rotella 15W-40 - T Triple Protection (high ZDDP additive package for metal-wear protection). Mixed response on Synthetics. - Oil Filter Replacement: Filters for Toyota trucks come in at least three size ranges. Standard is 2.9" OD by 3.4" high. Next is 3.6": OD by 5.1"high, and then there is a two-quart version that is 3.6"OD by 7" high. Amsoil published a lot of tests about their filters, the Amsoil "always won" but Mobile 1 and Hastings finished 2nd or 3rd depending on the test. Amsoil now sells Hastings as a cost saver filter. If you do a lot of start and stop type driving, then a high quality stock sized filter is your choice. If you spend more time driving then a larger one (middle sized) is the ticket as the larger size lets the oil flow through filter medium slower. Plus there is a small cooling effect due to the larger housing. - Change the air filter. To avoid mice, try using hardware cloth. Plastic screen is restrictive to air flow. Mice can't chew through ¼” hardware cloth. http://www.oreillyau...C0068&ppt=C0009 Shoes: 10” X 2 3/16 (254 mm X 56 mm) CENTRIC 11105230, CARLSON Part # A523, BENDIX Part # RS523, WAGNER Part # PAB523, NAPA TS523 O’Reilly's carries a shoe that will fit. http://www.oreillyau...03353&ppt=C0068 Hold-down kit: BENDIX Part # H7215DP, RAYBESTOS Part # H171332, AUTOSPECIALTY / KELSEY-HAYES Part # HK2209, ACDELCO Part # 18K628, WAGNER Part # H17133, NAPA UP 2273 Wheel cylinder: 7/8” bore BENDIX Part # 33919, RAYBESTOS Part # WC37654, AMERICAN REMANUFACTURERS INC. Part # 78422707, ACDELCO Part # 18E244, WAGNER Part # WC110923, DORMAN Part # W37654, AUTOSPECIALTY / KELSEY-HAYES Part # W56707, NAPA ATM P9466 Outer wheel-axle-seal: 1.625” OD , 1.35” shaft size, .35” wide L & S AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS Part # 7113911, BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523184, NATIONAL Part # 710076, TIMKEN Part # 710076, SKF Part # 13911, VICTOR REINZ Part # 66527, NAPA NOS 13911 Inner wheel seal: 3.35” OD, 2.4” shaft size, .31” thick. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0522680, L & S AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS Part # 7124635 , PRECISION AUTOMOTIVE Part # 226285, NATIONAL Part # 226285, SKF Part # 24635, TIMKEN Part # 226285, NAPA ATM 2117203 , NAPA NOS 24635 Proper length hold-down pins: 2 1/8” NAPA UP 80706 BELTS/HOSES: - Change all belts. - Replace the hoses, especially the "hidden" hose under the alternator - Vacuum Hoses: There is a kit for the 22RE. http://www.lceperfor...k-p/1072442.htm You don't need everything it comes with. Majority of the vacuum hose is 3mm. Buy something 12ft of 3mm vacuum hose. The 3mm fits snug and the silicone is a nice upgrade. http://www.summitrac...terial/silicone Alternatively http://www.amazon.co...e/dp/B009PYDPRM A lot of the major parts stores have it also Attached Files Timing belt replacement chart.pdf 482.92KB TIRES: Front at 40 and the rear at 45 psi. Much discussion on this Learn about tire size and load range also to make sure they are the right tires Learn to read a DOT date code http://www.tirebuyer...es#.VMge2y6M63I Recent thread on tires: http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7398 Metric tire sizes with the missing "middle" number have been around since the late 1950s. When that middle number is left out - it means it's an "82 % height to width" ratio. If the tire were an 185/75-14" instead - it would have a "75%" aspect ratio. 185R-14"C means 82%. Toyota cab & chassis rigs sold to RV makers for use as motorhomes with dual rear wheels call for 185R-14" C tires with a minimum of a 6 ply rating for the rear. For the front Toyota calls for 185R-14" C tires with an 8 ply rating. RV makers can call for something even better, but not worse to meet Toyota standards. OTHER See if you have a transmission cooler if you have an automatic tranny Check the furnace and a/c unit Clean and straighten radiator fins, you will be surprised how much junk accumulates there RV salvage yard search engine http://car-part.com/ Quote Bob C One of God's children Toyota Advanced Member 1,091 posts Gender:Male Interests:I enjoy kayaking, canoeing, camping, hunting, my Goldwing, spending time with my family. My Toyota Motorhome: 1988 Escaper, 4 cyl, auto, bought 08-16-2011, 33,000 miles when we bought it, 68,000 now and enjoying it. Sold summer 2018. Location: Baraboo, WI Posted January 27, 2015 Don't forget to check spark plugs, wires, and distributer. I would also check the battery isolator, install heavier wires from isolator to rear battery, check coach ground, make sure that there are circuit breakers at both ends of the wire to the rear battery. I installed an inexpensive volt meter that reads the voltage to the rear battery. I had problems with my isolator and now I can keep track of the output of my alternator, is the isolator working ok and it gives me an idea of how much coach battery charge is used overnight. Quote shibs Over 200 Posts! Toyota Advanced Member 457 posts Gender:Male Posted January 27, 2015 I have a 90 and it has been stored outside always. I had an 88 mazda couple that drove like new. I will add my 2.5 cents here, take it for what it is worth 2.5 cents. 1. Engine Oil: I use a 10w30 synthetic oil, the engine manual calls for 10w30, I think the engineers at Toyota are smarter than me. 2. Brake fluid and if you have a clutch, clutch fluid needs to be flushed - brake fluid is hygroscopic and this needs to be done every 3-5 years. 3. Mine had mice damage to plug wires and they were change. Change plugs if in doubt and get some NGKs or what ever manual suggests. 4. a/c system uses the old coolant so if it does not work right has to be retro fitted. 5. Transmission - if in double drain and fill 3 x, drain and fill and drive around and then drain and fill....repeat once more. 6. Rear Differential - drain and fill with synthetic gear oil of the correct weight recommended by owner's manual 7. Steering fluid - suction out steering fluid (if in doubt) from reservoir and refill. 8. Engine Oil filter - any cheap filter is fine, if you are in love with the toyo and swing by your local Mobil 1 dealer and get a case of their filter. Cheaper from Mobil 1 dealer. 9. Inspect all vacuum hoses as they could fail with age. 10 Same for radiator hoses, inspect them for cracks. You can buy Toyota oem for a few dollars more at dealer or ebay. 11. Clean and straighten radiator fins, you will be surprised how much junk accumulates there. Quote jjrbus Semper Fi Toyota Advanced Member 2,379 posts Gender:Male My Toyota Motorhome: 94 Seabreeze 6 auto Location: Ft Myers FL Posted January 27, 2015 TIRES!! Learn to read a DOT date code. The coach I just bought had great looking tires, lots of thread and only 1 tire had some very minor weather checking. 4 of the the tires are 14 years old! I had one blowout on the way home. http://www.tirebuyer.com/education/how-to-determine-the-age-of-your-tires#.VMge2y6M63I There is some controversy weather a tire is good for 6 or 10 years, me personally 7 years max. I also had a flipper in Tampa tell me a coach had new tires, they were 6 years old with tire shine on them. Learn about tire size and load range also to make sure they are the right tires! HTH JIm SW FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopacabra Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 Hmmm... I was under the impression most of the information there is specific to the Toyota chassis and engine. This guy's built on the Nissan/Datsun 720 with the DATS-Z24 engine. (Might be z20 or z22, I have not been arsed to check specifically). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Yes yours is a Z24. Freddy its nice that you have learned how to use the search function but this post is information overload and most does not pertain to a Nissan Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil John Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 On 3/15/2021 at 9:12 PM, linda s said: Instead of stressing over the z24 would I be better off just pulling it out and just doing a motor swap with an old trusty 22r toyota? Motor/trans. Cause i got an 85 I been thinking of buying from my buddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Well the quote you posted is not something I would ever say. Why would anyone buy a Nissan and try to make it a Toyota. The z24 engine is a great engine but they all have their quirks. I do know of one person who switched his z24 engine to a ka24 because it offers more horsepower but as I remember it was very complicated. Going from one manufacturer to another requires adapters so it has to be a switch that is commonly done. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Someone’s messing with you Linda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Yeah he posted that minutes after he joined. Are people really that bored? Or maybe he just doesn't know how to ask a valid question. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 3 hours ago, linda s said: Yeah he posted that minutes after he joined. Are people really that bored? Or maybe he just doesn't know how to ask a valid question. Linda S I’m guessing it’s someone who’s been chastised seeking revenge. 2 hours is an awfully short time to select your name then add a comment designed to make you look bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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