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1985 Escaper rear suspension overhaul tips, tricks, and questions


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It costs $5.84. It fits. Even though the new one seems lighter, I guess I’m worried about the material being different and not being able to stake it.

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I don't see any heavier grade markings on either of them So I guess it doesn't matter. If you want a tougher nut you could try the hardware store and probably pay less than a dollar but you have to decide if it's worth your time. For all the work you've done time is the most valuable thing there is

Linda S

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Posted (edited)

Yup time is the most valuable thing and working on an old rusted truck takes a lot of it. It's one good thing about this pandemic and having been laid off, I wouldn't be able to have worked on the truck this much. I'm gonna go with the part I have and hope that it will stake properly. At this point I'm not really worried about paying a few extra dollars for parts, I just want to know I have the right ones. I'm still waiting on the seal, after I work on the diff it's onto the leaf springs and suspension for the rear. I actually already have the driver side leaf springs removed I'm just waiting to put the pics on because I want the post to be in order. I will need some recommendations from the group about which suspension parts to buy.

Edited by hamkid
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The CS010R springs are the only way your going to get the  leaves the original ones had. On top of that they are relatively cheap. I don't think you need the CS020R at all. Then your going to need some Prothane bushings for those springs.

Amazon.com: Prothane 18-1002 Red Rear Spring Eye and Shackle Bushing Kit: Automotive

For shocks Bilsteins are supposed to be the best but I'm not impressed. I should have bought the KYB's. Just as good and hundreds of dollars less. My son assumed that my KYB shocks were so old they must be bad. NOT and over 20 years old. I had already bought the Bilsteins so put them on. Probably put a thousand miles on them before they stopped being damned uncomfortable. Now I can live with them but still hate wasting the money. Shock warehouse has the correct part numbers for the motorhomes but shop around. They are not always the cheapest although prices now look pretty good

#1 Shocks and Struts Superstore - Shockwarehouse.com

 

Linda S

Never ever buy Monroe

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Been gone a bit. The bearing looks burned, replace. Slinger looks reusable, but if its cheap replace.

The locking effect on the pinion nut comes from being staked in to the key way, You should reuse it, because as you start to get some heavy torque on the nut the stake mark will lineup with the key-way. Using the new nut you haven't a clue about the torque and what the crush sleeve is doing. Reusing the old nut you at least have a WAG about things

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Posted (edited)

Well, major WAG. Take the old nut and see where the threads start and the relationship to the stake point. Go there with the new nut and see how things line up with 100 Lb ft of torque.

The crush sleeve "crushes" and sets the preload on pinion bearings. The "crush" amount has major effects on the pinion depth and thus the gear teeth wear pattern and noise.

Good luck

Edited by WME
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Posted (edited)

I really hope I don't mess this up and have to take it all apart, I'm starting to regret working on the pinion. So too tight and gears grind, what happens when it's too loose? I'm still waiting for the bearing, do I grease it with the same stuff that I used on the front wheel hubs? Oh and what does WAG stand for?

Edited by hamkid
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The nut appears to be correct the "ring"  at the top of the nut needs to be "staked" in against the pinion grove once it's at proper torque. Don't go crazy with an impact tool the crush collier takes a good bit of torque to crush it beyond the recommended torque so torque it to specs then take a small punch and drive the nut top collier into the grove in the pinion. There are two methods pinion bearing load a normal torque wrench or a spring scale in your case neither will do much good because pinion bearing load can not be tested properly with the ring gear in place but not to worry there is no real reason for it to change. With out the axles in place and the wheels on the ground and the brakes on you'll never get the nut to the proper torque with out the tool to hold the pinion from turning (it's nothing more than a long bar with holes to bolt to the pinion flange).

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I would like to add one more thing do not get carried away with greasing  the bearing a little bit is OK they are flooded bearings meant to be lubed with gear oil.

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I know the tool you’re referring to. Get the tool first and then install and torque everything? Or do I have to wait until it’s off of the jack stands?

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Old and new bearing. Those three rings were attached to the old bearing when I removed it. Do they need to go back in with the new one? Also, should I install the new race or is it too much work without the pumpkin off?

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On 5/8/2021 at 6:41 PM, linda s said:

The CS010R springs are the only way your going to get the  leaves the original ones had. On top of that they are relatively cheap. I don't think you need the CS020R at all. Then your going to need some Prothane bushings for those springs.

Amazon.com: Prothane 18-1002 Red Rear Spring Eye and Shackle Bushing Kit: Automotive

For shocks Bilsteins are supposed to be the best but I'm not impressed. I should have bought the KYB's. Just as good and hundreds of dollars less. My son assumed that my KYB shocks were so old they must be bad. NOT and over 20 years old. I had already bought the Bilsteins so put them on. Probably put a thousand miles on them before they stopped being damned uncomfortable. Now I can live with them but still hate wasting the money. Shock warehouse has the correct part numbers for the motorhomes but shop around. They are not always the cheapest although prices now look pretty good

#1 Shocks and Struts Superstore - Shockwarehouse.com

 

Linda S

Never ever buy Monroe

Thanks Linda! I just ordered everything you mentioned and am really excited to install it!

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On 5/8/2021 at 6:41 PM, linda s said:

The CS010R springs are the only way your going to get the  leaves the original ones had. On top of that they are relatively cheap. I don't think you need the CS020R at all. Then your going to need some Prothane bushings for those springs.

Amazon.com: Prothane 18-1002 Red Rear Spring Eye and Shackle Bushing Kit: Automotive

For shocks Bilsteins are supposed to be the best but I'm not impressed. I should have bought the KYB's. Just as good and hundreds of dollars less. My son assumed that my KYB shocks were so old they must be bad. NOT and over 20 years old. I had already bought the Bilsteins so put them on. Probably put a thousand miles on them before they stopped being damned uncomfortable. Now I can live with them but still hate wasting the money. Shock warehouse has the correct part numbers for the motorhomes but shop around. They are not always the cheapest although prices now look pretty good

#1 Shocks and Struts Superstore - Shockwarehouse.com

 

Linda S

Never ever buy Monroe

Linda, what do people do about the shackles? Re use? Replace with stock Toyota? Go aftermarket? The only things I'm seeing aftermarket are lifted...

 

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Posted (edited)

^2x what she said. Shackles are not a hi tech. Wire brush them and some rattle can paint and your good. Check for twisted shackles  ones that have elongated holes, the bolts should fit finger snug.

Edited by WME
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Adjustable spring shackles are available from many sources and very reasonably priced.

Adjustable's allow you to custom tailor your ride height. If you’re replacing springs and bushings might as well do the shackles at the same time.

I custom built these in picture but commercial ones are very similar.

I’m sure your factory ones will work just fine. Just wanted to throw this idea out.

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Do you have precision measuring equipment?? If you do measure the width of the inner race. If the old and new bearings are the same use the spacer rings. If they are different thickness try to use the spacers to make the width the same.

If your precision measuring device is a yard stick😁then just install the spacers in the same place they were on the old bearing.

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Do you have the "tool" to hold the flange? If you can hold the flange against 100 lb ft of torque, then go for it. If you cant then you need the wheels on the ground, with chocks to lock the flange.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The pinion seal is leaking, so I did something wrong. I had to put everything back together without installing new leaf springs. I’m towing it to a mechanic, he is gonna finish it for me. Thanks for all the help and knowledge!!! I will post pics once it’s all done.

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  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

So 4 months later and 2 different mechanics the leaf springs are still not installed. Both places I took them to did not want to install them. I drove it back from Fresno to the Bay and now I will install them myself. Any tips before I get to it? Which side is front and rear?

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Edited by hamkid
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Each spring has 3 sets of bushings. Front, rear and upper shackle.

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