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1985 Escaper rear suspension overhaul tips, tricks, and questions


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Oh, Hamkid I have to agree!  I think that you can pull off a much better air management system than the Air Lift one, for cheaper.  You will need to do a little studying until you get how it all works, but then it is just parts.  And you have already tackled some pretty awesome repairs!  

 

This thread really tempts me to go look at putting air on mine again....  

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Cool, I'm gonna hold off on getting an air system right now. I'm considering what you said about not having the jounce in the airbag for full control.

Edited by hamkid
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I absolutely LOVE Puddin!  Okay off subject kinda, but still fun and kinda relevant.  

 

I say go for the normal Air Lift kit Hamkid!  I would probably get the non jounce version.  You aren't removing your shocks, just adding air helpers.  

 

I meant possibly put together your own management.  But hey if you are happy with the $799 management system and don't care if you have a tank for horns or other goodies, go for it!  

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Took the black tank off to sand the frame. The grey tank is broken and it looks like the rodents were in it. I’m gonna take the sensor wires off of the grey tank. Looks like the yellow wire is cut. 

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So in picture 4 is that pipe down there what used to be attached to your grey tank? No matter how bad it looks it can be repaired. Look like you had separate outlets for grey and black. Are there still supports in there for the grey tank outlet. It looks like a fair amount of travel to the side of the camper. It would need to be very firmly attached to the frame to prevent excessive pulling on it. 

So hard to tell how everything went together without seeing it but ABS slurry with open weave fiberglass to close up large openings is the trick. 

Linda S

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At this point I would rather just buy a new one. This thing was infested before I got it. If the back was anything like under the dash was I’m gonna replace everything under the sink hahah! don’t want any rat crap anywhere. Here’s pics of the black tank sensor wires. Both sides have cut wires. Should I worry about it right now?

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The "ring thingie" looks suspiciously like a well nut. You may end up just grinding the screw head off, remove the wires and then push the screw in to release the nut. Then start all over with new stuff.

Its highly unlikely that the screws will unscrew, after 20 years of corrosion from gungy water.

You seem to have 2 styles of sensors a common well nut...https://www.ebay.com/itm/202053992620?hash=item2f0b5b40ac:g:Yk4AAOSwfhNcpqDn

The other seems to be an actual blind rv sensor...https://www.ebay.com/itm/273945383824?hash=item3fc86ad390:g:RIUAAOSw7OFdOzt9 

 

A double order of the real rv sensors would be the best, but obliviously plain well nuts seem to have work for a long time 

 

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Cut the wires scrap the tank sensors and all! New ring terminals. Nasty job just make as easy as you can. 

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Thanks Hamkid for blazing the trail for me! I'm in the process or removing both my tanks as well. What are you replacing them with, and how are you going to install?

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I’m only going to replace the grey water tank. Looking for a replacement exactly the same size. Hopefully it screws into the same holes the old one came out.

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I can't find anything even close. This is the closest but 4 gallons smaller.

14 Gallon RV Holding Tank | Ronco 40H (ntotank.com)

Please take pics from all sides especially the side where I see what looks like a model number and maybe a maker. writing molded into tank. I see a side outlet but why does there appear to be a drain at the bottom too?

Linda S

Also none will come with your exact inlet holes. You have to drill those out yourself so keep that old tank to measure. Measure the space too so we can see how much leeway we have for fitting. The straps that hold your tank up are just plumbing hangers.

GRAINGER APPROVED 10 ftft 304 Stainless Steel Hanging Strap, 20 Gauge - 4NCC7|20SS10-10 - Grainger

Easy to replace if you need to make adjustments for a slightly different sized tank.

See why I said you should fix your old broken one

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Fixing it might have been better maybe, but I just didn’t feel like putting that much effort into a 30 year old broken tank that might break again. I would rather just pay for a new one and if I have to drill new holes no biggie I guess. I will double measure everything and look for model and make. Thanks Linda!

Edited by hamkid
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OK so I tracked down your original tank. Unfortunately not to buy. It was made by El Monte plastics in southern Cal but they were bought out by Elkhart plastics and they do not make an exact equivalent.  Also your original tank is 15 gallons not 18 so the 14 gallon one I posted is not far off. 

Linda S

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  • 2 weeks later...

It is better because it isn't a separate glue. It makes new ABS that becomes a permanent part of the ABS tank. 

I grind up a small piece of ABS from the hardware store with a rasp bit on my drill. I add enough ABS glue to make a thick slurry and paint it on the crack several times. Only make as much as you need, it dries quickly. 

For larger holes you need a weft of material to build up the slurry on. Piece of open weave fiberglass, door screen material or even an open weave piece of fabric. Cotton is best because nylon or acrylic will melt from the ABS glue. Paint slurry around edge, pull material tight over hole and let set, then proceed building slurry up all over material until strong. 

It's got to be pretty strong. The whole wall of my black tank with the drain got knocked out by debris in the road. I used this method to rebuild it and put in new drain hole. That area takes quite of bit of stress when you're putting your drain hose on and off. Way over 10 years ago and still solid as a rock.

Use all dollar store stuff cause nothing can be cleaned. Disposable aluminum baking pans, wooden sticks for mixing, small paint brushes and gloves. A few bucks at the most

Linda S

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  • 7 months later...

Back at it again. Removed the bronze bushing  from the spring, the bushing still won’t fit. I don’t really want to buy new ones and have the same thing happen. Any suggestions?

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im  really interested as i just ordered new springs and urethane bushings

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If the springs are not installed yet, take them along with the bushings to a garage or shop that knows what they’re doing. 


At some point DIY can cost more than having a professional help out. IMHO

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Ive changed mine to polyurethane and did not have any issues installing them in on my 1986 sunrader. I was able to push them in by hand on both the original springs as well aftermarket springs. i used the same size bushings on the leaf spring front, as well as the rear shackle. I think i used these ones all around: 

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Do the smaller bushings fit both sides of the spring? I remembering ordering extras of the small ones because of this.

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My 86 ended up with big and littles on the rear springs. Even though they seemed stiffer than rubber, the Toy rode smoother with the poly bushings in the rear springs.

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got my new springs today.  i see your problem. you have the wrong bushings.  i  ordered energy suspension poly bushings #8.2108q from summit.  the old bushings were poly(p.o. installed) and simply pushed out of the old spring and into the new one. all the bushings were the same size

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I bought these during the pandemic. Fml this project has taken this long hahaha. Not sure what do to at this point, find someone to try and press them in or buy different ones?

Edited by hamkid
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