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Any electricians? Help needed


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Merry Christmas!

 

I can't seem to figure out what is going on with the electric system in my 1980 17' Sunrader. 

1. I think I solved the first problem - I'm pretty sure I accidentally bridged the battery isolator while replacing the clutch master cylinder. So now the coach battery isn't charging from the alternator. I have a new isolator in the mail. 

2. MAIN PROBLEM: The fridge (Norcold N510) is making a click noise from what seems like the middle of the control panel on the back. The sound is every 10 seconds or so and it does not sound like ignition attempt. It's a pronounced electronic click. It actually makes the same sound when you press power, though the fridge doesn't turn on. It sounds like it attempts to turn on every 10 or 20 seconds. This occurs when on shore or house battery and even when I switch to neither shore/house.

 

It does seem that the fridge got stuck in this mode the same time the house battery died. I did not realize the isolator had faulted so I was surprised by losing house power. I'm hoping the deep cycle can still be charged.  

Is it possible the fridge is stuck trying to power on? Is there some sort of reset protocol?

I have pulled the panel in the back and unplugged and replugged everything I could. Fuses are good. 

 

 

Side question: I have had the rear seal on the transmission replaced twice and it's still leaking. Before taking it to another mechanic, I'm going to try the Blue Devil stuff. Does anyone know where to add oil to the L43 4 speed? There is no dipstick or obvious fill cap that I can see. 

 

Thank you!

Cam

 

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To make things more confusing - The fridge has been clicking like this for a few days regardless of if I am on shore, house, or no power. The fridge's LED never shows anything, but if you stick your hand in the freezer, it seems that it has been cooling. 

 

Any ideas?

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Side question: I have had the rear seal on the transmission replaced twice and it's still leaking. Before taking it to another mechanic, I'm going to try the Blue Devil stuff. Does anyone know where to add oil to the L43 4 speed? There is no dipstick or obvious fill cap that I can see. 

 

The fill plug is on the left hand side of the transmission near the tail shaft. It’s a manual transmission, no dipstick or fill cap. Should be a 17 or 19mm hex plug.

Edited by fred heath
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You have something hooked up wrong in the 12dc battery side of the house.

The clicking sound is most likely an auto reset circuit breaker. They act like this when the battery is hooked up backwards

Who knows what has been done to your wiring in the past 40 years by other owners.

"NORMAL" wiring  usually is white = ground and black = positive.

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As far as the transmission leak you may need to check out a speedi sleeve. If the output bearing is OK there is a possibility that over time the original seal worn a grove in the shaft and when you install a new seal the grove cuts the lip on the new seal. A speedi sleeve will give the new seal a smooth place to run.

 

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7 hours ago, WME said:

You have something hooked up wrong in the 12dc battery side of the house.

The clicking sound is most likely an auto reset circuit breaker. They act like this when the battery is hooked up backwards

Who knows what has been done to your wiring in the past 40 years by other owners.

"NORMAL" wiring  usually is white = ground and black = positive.

The only question I would have with this is how the fridge worked properly for a year. And it was on for the few days before it started acting up. 

 

But I think you are on to something, as I'm not getting ANY of the electronics to work one house power. Only on shore power. Fuses are good, breaker didn't flip. The wiring is a mess of different colors with splices and duct tape. I'm having a hard time making sense of it. 

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7 hours ago, WME said:

As far as the transmission leak you may need to check out a speedi sleeve. If the output bearing is OK there is a possibility that over time the original seal worn a grove in the shaft and when you install a new seal the grove cuts the lip on the new seal. A speedi sleeve will give the new seal a smooth place to run.

 

That's cool I haven't seen those. Thanks for the help

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What model refer do you have? Is it a 2 way (propane-110vac) or a 3 way model (propane-110vac-12vdc).

Did you "redo" ANY 12v wiring?

 

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 From your description your fridge is a replacement with auto start meaning you don't have to do any thing to make it go. It kind of sounds like the piezo is trying to light the fridge, dumb question is the gas turned on? So no electricity on battery only when plugged in first is the battery connected? If it is reversed connected the click/ping would be coming from the converter not the fridge. In side the converter there is a change over relay they have been know to stick in the shore power mode basically disconnecting the battery. The battery is connected to the converter usually with a #10 wire This is where your friend the vote meter comes in because guessing won't help. First battery voltage then next battery voltage plugged in it should be higher. This can become confusing fast have a friend that is knows about low voltage stuff? Two of the worst possible wiring things are boats (#1 they tend to explode) and campers (#2 they usually just catch fire) I have found that people who have twisted two wires together and have some thing work immediately become experts and from your description it sounds like this maybe the case.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/26/2020 at 10:05 AM, WME said:

What model refer do you have? Is it a 2 way (propane-110vac) or a 3 way model (propane-110vac-12vdc).

Did you "redo" ANY 12v wiring?

 

It is the 3 way fridge. I didn’t change any wiring although I may have bridged the posts on the multi battery isolator which I’m replacing tomorrow. 
However, the fridge and other electronics worked fine after bridging the isolator. But after  recharging the house battery they still don’t work. 

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On 12/26/2020 at 10:30 AM, Maineah said:

 From your description your fridge is a replacement with auto start meaning you don't have to do any thing to make it go. It kind of sounds like the piezo is trying to light the fridge, dumb question is the gas turned on? So no electricity on battery only when plugged in first is the battery connected? If it is reversed connected the click/ping would be coming from the converter not the fridge. In side the converter there is a change over relay they have been know to stick in the shore power mode basically disconnecting the battery. The battery is connected to the converter usually with a #10 wire This is where your friend the vote meter comes in because guessing won't help. First battery voltage then next battery voltage plugged in it should be higher. This can become confusing fast have a friend that is knows about low voltage stuff? Two of the worst possible wiring things are boats (#1 they tend to explode) and campers (#2 they usually just catch fire) I have found that people who have twisted two wires together and have some thing work immediately become experts and from your description it sounds like this maybe the case.

You’re right I need to get someone who knows this stuff in the camper to check it out.

The electronics work on shore power but the fridge just clicks. Even though it was working on shore and house battery before the house battery died. 

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4 hours ago, Otolith said:

It is the 3 way fridge. I didn’t change any wiring although I may have bridged the posts on the multi battery isolator which I’m replacing tomorrow. 
However, the fridge and other electronics worked fine after bridging the isolator. But after  recharging the house battery they still don’t work. 

Follow the clicking sound until you find it. If the noise comes from something that looks like this...https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cole-hersee-circuit-breaker-30-amp-12v-30055-30-bp/11044639-P?searchTerm=auto%20reset%20circuit%20breaker

Then you have a 12v wiring problem, the little guy is an auto reset circuit breaker. The most common cause is a reversed battery connection

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/3/2021 at 9:07 PM, WME said:

Follow the clicking sound until you find it. If the noise comes from something that looks like this...https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cole-hersee-circuit-breaker-30-amp-12v-30055-30-bp/11044639-P?searchTerm=auto%20reset%20circuit%20breaker

Then you have a 12v wiring problem, the little guy is an auto reset circuit breaker. The most common cause is a reversed battery connection

I replaced this when I replaced the battery isolator. However the clicking is coming from the power board on the fridge. The fridge seems to turn on sometimes but not always. 

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OK next couple of steps.

Clean and adjust the spark gap electrodes. The control board maybe trying to light the gas (that's the click you hear) but the spark gap is dirty or out of adjustment

If that doesn't help check out a new igniter board....http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Nor_boards.htm

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On 1/22/2021 at 9:04 PM, WME said:

OK next couple of steps.

Clean and adjust the spark gap electrodes. The control board maybe trying to light the gas (that's the click you hear) but the spark gap is dirty or out of adjustment

If that doesn't help check out a new igniter board....http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Nor_boards.htm

I’m pretty certain the clicking is not actually the igniter. I’m familiar with the igniter sound. This sound is a single click every 10-20 seconds and I take the cover of the fridge panel so I can tell it is actually coming from the panel. It is the same sound that occurs when you press the power button on the front of the fridge. 
This is strange because it was happening regardless of if I was on shore power or battery or turned off. Like it was stuck trying to turn on somehow.

Now that clicking has stopped but the fridge is acting strange. Basically, it doesn’t always turn on. Sometimes it won’t turn on after trying the button a dose times, then I go out a day later and it is on.

Another bit of info: When trying to turn it on, I hear the same “click” but no signal from the LED. And fridge doesn’t turn on. I have to wait a bit before pushing the power button will produce this click again. Not sure if that is important or not. 

thanks for the help. I got frustrated and left it alone for a week but I’m gonna look at it again tomorrow

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