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1985 Escaper full suspension and steering overhaul tips, tricks, and questions


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Install upper ball joint to upper arm

 

Torque 20 ft. lbs.

 

support lower arm with jack and connect upper ball joint to steering knuckle 

 
torque 80 ft. lbs.

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The manual says to install this before the shock absorber. It was easier after installing shock absorber.

Install stabilizer bar to frame

 

Connect stabilizer bar to lower arm

 

torque 9 ft. lbs.

 

torque bracket set bolts to frame

 

torque 9 ft. lbs.

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Edited by hamkid
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Good for another 30 years! What's with the "ham kid"? Amature radio?

 

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N3LYT SW Maine mountains DC to daylight 40-80 most every night. Been at it for 30 years.

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Oh I meant what does the profile name “Maineah” mean?

 

both my parents have “ham” in their last names. So I am a ham kid. Also, ham is an acronym for “Hard as a M.F.er”. If I ever get a radio I will check you out.

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I know you torqued to specs, but it looks like most of the rubber bushings are under compressed.

Also the big nut goes on first and the thin nut (jam nut) is second

Edited by WME
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Some of the pics were taken without tightening. I will make sure everything is tightened before it drives. 
 

what part are you referring to for the nuts, shocks?

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The nuts on the upper shock are backwards

Edited by WME
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5 hours ago, hamkid said:

Oh I meant what does the profile name “Maineah” mean?

 

both my parents have “ham” in their last names. So I am a ham kid. Also, ham is an acronym for “Hard as a M.F.er”. If I ever get a radio I will check you out.

Well I guess you got two answers and I only got one!

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Your are going to have to jack the arm up. It probably will want to lift the truck but should give you enough room to get the adjuster bolt back in.

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So I lost one of the nuts when I was cleaning it. It slipped out of my hands and the wire wheel tossed it somewhere. Are they both the same bolts? The first pic is what the fsm shows, the second is what the dealer ship shows. The bottom pic is 90170-12004 from Toyota parts deal, is that all I need?

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Edited by hamkid
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I can’t remember if those two nuts were identical... I think the upper one, the lock nut, was slightly shorter, which seems to be what the parts diagram is showing. 
 

I’d probably purchase both nuts, for both sides, since they’re pretty inexpensive. They tend to take a beating when removed after 30+ years and you don’t want to round them off!

 

Btw, no sense in tightening the upper locknut down, until you get it all finished, off the jack stands, and complete the ground-to-frame measurements (as seen in manual). 

 

 

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The fsm diagram shows both are the same. The dealership diagram shows 90170-12004 and 90179-12074 with an asterisk* not sure what that means? The larger nut below them is 90170-12025 and is discontinued and not for sale. I was hoping the fsm was correct and I only need to order the 90170-12004 nut from Toyota parts deal. I took this pic when I took them off. Do the nuts look the same size? I will take a look on the other side and try to confirm.

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^ What she said, but its metric so grade 8 = metric 10.9

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I dunno know, the caliper bore looks pitted even after the cleaning.  Is it or is it camera angle.?

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Nope its the other way around, but clean and painted on the outside is good too.

During a moderately hard stop there is about 1500 psi in the brake system. The only thing stopping  leaks is the small rubber seal on the brake piston.  When you release the brakes the seal flexes back and retracts the brake piston.

So every time you use the brakes that seal flexes both ways. Over the life of brake pads that seal will actually move about an 1/2". If the bore in the caliper is not perfectly smooth, the imperfections will cut the seal like sandpaper and soon you will be leaking brake fluid and the braking will be unbalanced from side to side.

Professionally rebuilt calipers are in the $30-40 range, in your case I think that would be a good investment.

Just remember that you hace a 1 ton C&C NOT a standard 1/2 ton

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I thought you had rebuilt them, thats why the "I dunno" comment. The "factory" rebuilt would be a good choice.

Looks like they would $35-40 ea. Brakes are very important, do you trust you?

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E-bay look Disc Brake Hone. If the inside bore is only a little pitted, a hone will smooth things out.

A rebuilder will machine things and use an oversize piston.

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  • 1 month later...

Doesn't matter. The taper sets the depth long before there is any tension on the joint.

 

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