hamkid Posted May 27, 2021 Author Share Posted May 27, 2021 (edited) Should it have oil in it when I config it? what brand is good? Manual says oil type: API GL-4 SAE 90 capacity: 380 - 400 cc (23.2-24.4 cu in.) Edited May 27, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 4 hours ago, WME said: The tag joint pinch bolt should line up with the flat in the shaft. After you get the steering wheel hooked up, turn it as far as it will go in one direction and turn it all the other way, counting the turns. Turn it back 1/2 the way. Make sure the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. Install pitman arm and see how things align Pitman arm needs to be aligned with the index marks. This is the only way you will get an equal side to side turning radius. You can not use the method you outlined. Pitman arm first, then align the steering wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 27, 2021 Author Share Posted May 27, 2021 So add oil?, connect worm gear to steering, line up pitman arm then check the turns? This ok for oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) I can’t get the steering coupler to clamp. The screw will keep going but the coupler will never hold position? And if I over filled steer box should I siphon some out? Edited May 31, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Update to condition of front end rebuild. The idler arm came loose. What side of the bolt should the washers install? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 What should I do to fix this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IdahoDoug Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Fyi, I am a pretty good wrench but none of the pics the other day showed me the actual disconnected ends well enough to advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 The only thing that seems do have disconnected is a nut holding a bolt for the idler arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IdahoDoug Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 And therein lies my confusion. Several photos showing several items without showing a broken fastener or an empty hole, or two surfaces previously connected that now are not. And then the one above with a bracket askew and the bolt still in place. If it's just the bracket, it seems too obvious what to do for you to even ask "what should I do?". Clearly put a nut on and tighten it. Yet you seem distressed that something else is wrong. Honestly, I cannot figure out what the issue is. Happy to help when I can, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 👍 let’s start over 😂 what should I do about this? The rubber boot is busted and grease is oozing out. Is it even a big deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extech Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 i think as long as it is oozing out it isn't dry. don't worry about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IdahoDoug Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Ah, gotcha. Is there a zirc fitting on the bottom to squirt grease into the fitting? If yes, you might do the following. Clean the outside. Put the part at the middle of its travel (wheels straight ahead most likely). Wrap it with Rescue Tape, or the tape used to patch RV rubber roofs (incredibly tenacious n stretchy). Squirt a bunch of grease into it. I've also successfully used beads of silicone caulk around the boot to "seal" it against dust last for a long while. The grease is there to lubricate a ball and socket joint in the bottom drum shaped portion, and the boot is there just to allow for somewhere for the old grease to go after it's pushed through the joint, and of course to keep dirt out. If there is no zirc fitting to add grease, put it on your "to do list" to replace the ball joint/arm it's attached to. It's probably STILL going to last for 10 years of use though. You can periodically have someone move the steering wheel back and forth tiny amounts while you firmly grip it with a hand to feel if it's wearing some slack in there. Probably a $30 part on Rock Auto and an hour's work to replace if you have a ball joint tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.