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Alternator issues??


Stormtyler1984dolphin

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SHE said it had a 1 wire in it from a P/O. Who knows what was done to the original wiring. With minimal E-skills plug n play (as modified) is the best bet.

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The only problem I see using the original Toyota alternator is the GM uses its own mounting bracket. If the p/o trashed the original factory mount, it will be very difficult to go back to the way it was. Also, who knows what wiring modifications the p/o did.

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I'm confused about your alt it has more that one wire connection yes? The heavy wire goes directly to the terminal with a nut and there are two spade terminals that have no wires? If that is the case it will not work. Here is what you can do connect a jumper to the large wire and the #2 spade connector now here is where it gets a bit confusing you need to find the original toyota wire that makes the alternator light work that would get connected to the alt number 1 spade connector making it exactly like it would work in a Chevy. 

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From one of the posts yesterday about the JEGS one wire alternator I called JEGS and the guy on the phone was genuinely more helpful than mechanics have been. He looked up the serial number for the (incorrect) alternator that we have in right now and was like no that will not work as a one wire and the guy that sold it to you is dumb. He did locate a GM one wire 10SI which I feel like is the “correct” one. As in most likely what was in there previously. And about the mounting bracket YES it is a custom mounting bracket that was put in to accommodate the old GM one wire that was in there. And Maineah NO. The alternator had ONE SINGULAR wire from the back of it to the positive terminal of the battery. That is completely all of the alternator wiring that had ever existed in the truck since we bought it. The JEGS guy told me that this one from advanced auto is the same as what I had looked at on their website just “the proform version” it’s EXPENSIVE but if it works and ends the headache it’ll be worth it and if it doesn’t work I can just return it 

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ED14A778-2A3A-4B97-91A8-FCA7BF158213.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Stormtyler1984dolphin said:

From one of the posts yesterday about the JEGS one wire alternator I called JEGS and the guy on the phone was genuinely more helpful than mechanics have been. He looked up the serial number for the (incorrect) alternator that we have in right now and was like no that will not work as a one wire and the guy that sold it to you is dumb. He did locate a GM one wire 10SI which I feel like is the “correct” one. As in most likely what was in there previously. And about the mounting bracket YES it is a custom mounting bracket that was put in to accommodate the old GM one wire that was in there. And Maineah NO. The alternator had ONE SINGULAR wire from the back of it to the positive terminal of the battery. That is completely all of the alternator wiring that had ever existed in the truck since we bought it. The JEGS guy told me that this one from advanced auto is the same as what I had looked at on their website just “the proform version” it’s EXPENSIVE but if it works and ends the headache it’ll be worth it and if it doesn’t work I can just return it 

11F6135F-2032-4D13-A5D7-DFBF7CB2E8C1.jpeg

ED14A778-2A3A-4B97-91A8-FCA7BF158213.jpeg

ALRIGHT YALL I think we got it!! We put this alternator in this morning and so far so good! Charging truck battery to 14.5 MAX and charging the auxiliary battery to 13.6! So for now it seems all is well. Thanks for the input! 

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19 hours ago, WME said:

This a 70 amp 1 one wire GM alternator. It uses just the battery wire, the other wires for this alternator are not used or internal. To make the dash idot light work requires adding a wire to a connector under the rubber plug

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=s-10+alternator&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false.

What does yours look like?

Thank you for posting this link as it helped us find an alternator that worked for us!! Not this exact one but we got a GM one wire 100amp one! 

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Yea team.😁

So you have the big wire from the alternator going to the center post of the isolator?

After your stress level goes down, get your volt meter out and check the voltage at each point. ie back of alternator, center post of isolator, both of the outer post and at each battery.

What your looking for is a poor wire connection. The only voltage drop should be at the isolator, the voltage should be the same at each end of the wires.

A difference of .2v makes a 20% change in the charge of the house battery.

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38 minutes ago, WME said:

Yea team.😁

So you have the big wire from the alternator going to the center post of the isolator?

After your stress level goes down, get your volt meter out and check the voltage at each point. ie back of alternator, center post of isolator, both of the outer post and at each battery.

What your looking for is a poor wire connection. The only voltage drop should be at the isolator, the voltage should be the same at each end of the wires.

A difference of .2v makes a 20% change in the charge of the house battery.

We just have the wire from the back of the alternator going directly to the positive terminal of the truck battery. So probably isn’t actually charging the house battery but we’re not that worried about it 

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Bottom line if it has one wire connection and nothing else it should work as long as there is battery voltage on that wire. The caveat being a weak battery or poor connections. 

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Alright when you get home, do the checks on the isolator with an ohm meter, if it checks good move the alternator/battery wire to the center post. Start the engine and do the voltage checks. Let us know what you get.

 

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