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Windows should be removed cleaned and reinstalled with butyl tape. I buy white butyl tape because I think it looks better. The roof is fiberglass. Only leaks possible are where the is an opening cut for a vent or window. No sealing anywhere else required 

Linda S

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Linda is correct that the butyl tape is all that should be required for the metal frame windows.  If you have front plastic (acrylic/plexi-glass) windows with the rubber gasket seal then you have to get a new gasket seal or do like me and cheat by sealing with a sealant.  I use ProFlex RV sealant for that job as well as for things like backup lights (although I'm using more butyl tape and less sealant as I go around and re-seal things).  If you don't have the gumption right now to seal metal frame windows properly with butyl tape then ProFlex RV can also be used to seal windows until you can do it properly with the butyl tape.

What you do NOT want to do is use silicone.  Say No to silicone.  Here is a recent thread discussing sealants:

An EPDM sealant on the roof is standard.  I used the butyl tape on marker lights.  For other holes like back-up camera wires I use 3M 5200 white adhesive sealant - which is more of a permanent sealant and doesn't come off easily.   If you need to fix cracks or other issues in the fiberglass itself or otherwise repair the gelcoat then you can use Marine-Tex, which can be tinted to match the surrounding color.

As for cleaning up and sealing (I'm assuming you mean waxing) the fiberglass, yes, it's basically like a boat.  Many of us have been using Zep Floor wax and there are many threads on that process.  Lately I've been looking to try something different that is perhaps tried and true in the boating world so let me know if you come up with an alternative waxing process.  Regardless of what you wax with a great way to prep it is to use Bar Keeper's Friend (BKF) and a scouring pad (like a green fiberous one for the kitchen).  That gets the gelcoat nice and clean and ready for a wax.

 

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