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Does anyone have details on how to remove the upper control arm bushings?

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The service manual is not terribly helpful and references a tool that is expensive and difficult to come by.

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What about just replacing the whole thing? That's what I'm planning to do on mine, upper and lower. Those bushings seem like a pain to deal with, and the new control arms have 'em already.

Upper: Dorman 522-651

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Im curious about how to do it properly, but i have considered that. Also, does that part fit? for whatever reason rockauto and amazon do not think that its a proper fit. 

Regarding the lower control arm bushing, that one is pretty easy to pull. I've got details on the tool i made if your interested. 

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defrag4 confirmed that the Dorman 522-651 worked fine on his '91 Itasca in this thread: 

 

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The 86 and the V6 models used different part number from Toyota so maybe not. I have been unable to find an after market equivalent for the 86

the 86 

Toyota Part No.: 48066-35060

ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY, SUSPENSION

 

 

1988 to 95

Toyota Part No.: 48066-35080

ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY, SUSPENSION

Toyota 48066-35080 ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY, SUSPENSION
Part Description Arm Sub-Assy, Fro
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interesting. if i pick those ones up ill report back. Im always a little apprehensive about items like that on ebay with no brand or additional information. But i still would like to know if anyone has a method for removing the bushings.

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1 hour ago, mpanzar said:

interesting. if i pick those ones up ill report back. Im always a little apprehensive about items like that on ebay with no brand or additional information. But i still would like to know if anyone has a method for removing the bushings.

Easy peasy, a 20-ton hydraulic press, and various sized drivers /pipes.

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3 hours ago, mpanzar said:

interesting. if i pick those ones up ill report back. Im always a little apprehensive about items like that on ebay with no brand or additional information. But i still would like to know if anyone has a method for removing the bushings.

A press is the proper answer. A blow torch with a hammer and a punch/ sockets is the backyard answer.  

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Years ago we set fire to them then cut the outer part off with an air chisel. Crude but effective.

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I've got a 20-ton press in the garage but every time I have to do bushings on a vehicle I end up doing it twice. I do it so rarely that I usually manage to mess it up slightly the first time around.   I should just order two sets of bushings every time because more than likely the first set will be for practice so I can do the second set right.  I'd have to think carefully about whether I'd get a new UCA with pre-installed bushings or if I'd attempt to re-do the bushings on the original UCA.  I guess if two sets of bushings was cheap enough I'd just go that route 🙂

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2 hours ago, Maineah said:

Years ago we set fire to them then cut the outer part off with an air chisel. Crude but effective.

Dad?  

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Thanks for the reply's everyone. Ive got a ball joint service kit but I dont think that will do it (unless im using it wrong). the issue is the shaft is in place when the bushings are pressed in. The manual calls for SST 09710-30020 which has a bunch of half moon pipes (for lack of a better term) that hugs the shaft shown in yellow. Im sure i can burn them out, and i think the shaft will fall through the outer sleeve and then i can use the ball joint tool to remove the rest. But on to the next question, how to properly press them in? a press will work for the first bushing but once the shaft is set in place whats the best way to press the second bushing in?  Using a press will put a lot of pressure on the control arms thin section when the bushing first engages. For whatever reason ive been unable to find a detailed post on the tooling people have created to service the UCA bushings. Part of my curiously is also driven by the SST 09710-30020 itself; even if i had that tool i dont think id understand how to use it. the manual pictures are not very obvious about where to support the UCA.

 

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SST 09710-30020.jpg

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Bushing replace.png

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I have replaced hundreds of them on pretty much any thing made. 60's vintage stuff went through them in about 30 to 60K Like I say I have burned them out cut through them with a torch pressed them in with a bunch of old sockets pounded them in with a hammer but back then you could not buy the entire assembly. Old ball joints were the same way you literally had to pound them out with a hammer and a jack stand get the new ones started as best you could if they were not flush go for a ride on a rough road they would take care of the rest. I had to replace a wheel bearing in my 2011 Tacoma I ordered the bearing got it all off the vehicle ended up having to make a tool to press the hub out of the bearing got it all done then found out I could have bought the entire assembly hub and all for very close for the same price. So bottom line if you can buy the entire assemble don't beat yourself up.

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 with all due respect I noticed no one mentioned  that many special tools can be rented .

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Still working out the proper tooling. in the meantime i purchased the arms from ebay that Linda found. They should work but the bushings are incorrect. Ill post pictures tomorrow.  

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I think figured out how the SST is used. Not sure why it took me so long to wrap my head around it, but your supposed to use fork to push the control arm from the bushing. this will release the shaft and then on to the other side. i think the hardest part of making the tooling will be the base that supports the full assembly of the half moon, UCA and fork to push it through. 

down.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

I m about to start on mine today. I believe this loaner from AutoZone would do the trick for free:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-ball-joint-press-adapter/powerbuilt-23-pcs-ball-joint-u-joint-press-set/449947_0_0

 

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I had a neighborhood wrench with a fully equipped shop do mine, I stood there and handed him tools and cheered him on and supplied coffee.

It is not a job for the timid,  had I tried myself I would have removed the arms and bushings and then likely had to take them to a shop to have the bushings installed!

A decent mechanic with a press and all kinds of doo dad's and gadgets had a hard time installing them,  even asking his mechanic father to assist.

Edited by jjrbus
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Good advice jrbus.

After removing one upper arm and fooling around with the hub for couple hours I ordered two new control arms for $65 from eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Set-of-2-Control-Arm-Suspension-Kit-2-PC-Front-Driver-Passenger-Side-Pair/301858835650?pageci=25f3e93e-cb03-42db-b960-219ce112d467

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On 5/6/2019 at 8:10 AM, rdsrds123 said:

Do they seem as sturdy as OEM?

Yes they do, but I doubt if they will last another 28 years like the originals, but then neither will this RV or probably me either.

There was not enough space to get the driver's side one to come out because it hit the steering column, so I had to make two cuts in the inside fender well and peel a section of it back.

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On 5/11/2019 at 9:10 AM, ednelson100 said:

Yes they do, but I doubt if they will last another 28 years like the originals, but then neither will this RV or probably me either.

There was not enough space to get the driver's side one to come out because it hit the steering column, so I had to make two cuts in the inside fender well and peel a section of it back.

lol you sound just like me Ed, after dicking with the arm for a few days i eventually gave up and bought one with pre-pressed bushings and after wrestling trying to get the goddang thing back in for hours I eventually took tin snips to the fender!

Glad to hear you are still out there on the road!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎4‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 12:36 PM, mpanzar said:

Does anyone have details on how to remove the upper control arm bushings?

image.png.f7ab68da9b0c00586fa8d823dd400361.png

The service manual is not terribly helpful and references a tool that is expensive and difficult to come by.

image.png.9db76048156b211543859031a21aefc7.png

 

I got upper and lower busing from Auto part store, Toyota part is easy to get and I also replaced sway bar busing https://motorhomemodification-usa.blogspot.com/search?q=upper+control+arm+bush

Edited by j.gima
Bush and sims installed by front wheel alingement shop,look for alingement shop use by New car delaer
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What kind of tools do you have access to?? A 20-ton press and adapters are needed. SO choices here are, buy new A-arms with bushings installed  (easy peasy way) or pay a shop to replace the bushings.

Full blown poor country boy redneck approach. Get a propane torch and burn out the old rubber, then use a cold chisel, hacksaw, Sawzall to split the metal sleeve and then pound it out.

Installing the new one, a press is really helpful. BUT you can use a BIG vice and a cheater pipe on the handle. A chunk of pipe big enough for the bushing to slide into. Press in one bushing, insert the cross arm. Grease the other sleeve, make a C-bushing out the pipe by cutting a slit down the side. This will let you support the arm and use the vice to squeeze things together.

Full blown flintstone is to rest the arm on the vice and use a BFH to drive in the bushing.

Replacing  bushings is a 2 person job

 

 

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As stated by other members in this thread it is very difficult. I would recommend you return the bushing for money back if possible and by an entire new arm from ebay for $32.50@. That is what I did.

Installed them in less than an hour and they worked great. Then had front end alignment done by a professional for $100, That would have been cheaper but he said it required the old style re-shimming.............Ed

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