‘84 Dolphin Power Converter Fix

[blazar4151]

Hey all, just bought an ‘84 Dolphin 700 with all of the original fixtures. 90k miles. 

The original power converter is installed and it looks like the PO had wired in some solar panels and may have added a solar controller, although it looks like it’s from the same era as the converter. 

So two batteries, one right next to the converter, seems added, and the battery box that you can access from the outside. Both were dead and when I hooked up a new battery in the outside box the converter “Click” “Pings” and the lights go dim and then brighten in ten second intervals.

I’ve done some reading and I think it’s the auto reset breaker, which I have located, but it’s soldered in and riveted in place. Doesn’t seem like a replacement item so maybe this PO really fried things? 

Just looking for some experience since I have never RV’d before. Thanks.

Edited March 28, 2019 by blazar4151

[WME]

WAG one of your batteries is hooked up with the polarity reversed. Most RVs black is + not ground

Edited March 28, 2019 by WME

[Maineah]

Yep reversed polarity the noise is the the breaker tripping then resetting basically doing what it should. 

Edited March 28, 2019 by Maineah

[blazar4151]

Well I switched the leads going to the battery after reading the forums and it was still doing it. I’ll give that another try today just to be sure.

[Derek up North]

Attached are wiring diagrams from National. I'd suggest that while troubleshooting, you disconnect the added-on battery.

[blazar4151]

Wow, alright. Thanks for that. I have just been trying to chase whatever the PO has done because it’s definitely been added to. Luckily the new wiring is pretty obvious although several wires dip through the walls...

So this soldered auto breaker probably doesn’t need to be replaced?

[Derek up North]

Got a multimeter (VOM)? "Don't leave home without it"!

[blazar4151]

Well it’s seems like I was just being dumb and when I switched the battery wires around it stopped clicking. Really thought I had done that already....

Now i’m just trying to chase the split charging system so I can see if it’s working but not sure how to go about that with this converter in between. Previously I had a camper van with a manual switch to charge the house. Any tips or tricks?

 

[Derek up North]

4 hours ago, Derek up North said:

Got a multimeter (VOM)? "Don't leave home without it"!

Unless a DPO removed it, you'll have an automatic 'battery isolator' installed under the hood.

[Maineah]

The converter only works when the RV is plugged in. If it is the original one it does two things it charges the camper battery and runs the light, pump etc. They are two separate circuits it actually disconnects the coach battery and supplies all the power the battery normally does to the DC circuits while charging the coach battery. A DVM is your friend. While it is plugged in the coach battery voltage should rise and your lights should burn.

[blazar4151]

Okay, I’ve been hesitant to test it while the truck is running, my main concern is whether or not the house battery will charge while driving.

In a semi permanent boondock situation so no opportunity yet to plug in with shore power. I’ve got my voltmeter and test light....

So I hooked the house batt up and was going to let it stay hooked for a bit while I checked things inside....

Smoke! The DPOS has some janky wires spliced into the pump supply (or tank monitor maybe) that started cooking off the wire insulation 🙃. I hope I don't have to fix every wire in here.

 

Edited March 28, 2019 by blazar4151

[blazar4151]

So as soon as I start driving, will the house battery charge?

[WME]

I spent 20 years in the USAF chasing electrons, when I got myToy it took me 2 weeks of steady work to fix the wiring mess from the PO. 

Get a volt meter and follow every wire belonging to the isolator. house battery and the 12v dc power panel and fuses.

When its all set up correctly the house battery will be charged by the truck alternator when your driving. If you're into long boondock times and short drives. Look into a solar panel kit a 100w system will result in almost perpetual motion. Get a 200w system and 2 house batteries if you're a heavy power user.

 Another thing reducing power usage (led lights) is the same as adding a bigger battery. 

[Maineah]

Yes it should, look at Derek's post. It's the same deal with the truck running the coach battery voltage should go up (DVM again) if the isolator is working. Here is what happens when the key is off the coach battery is disconnected this keeps the truck battery from being drained from lights etc in the coach. Good ideal if you want the truck to start in the morning. So when you start the engine the isolator relay engages joining both batteries together and the truck charging system commences to charge both batteries while you are driving. Once the key is off they are no longer connected and plugged in the converter/charger  runs the lights and charges the coach battery.

[blazar4151]

Check. Thank you all so much, very helpful. Hopefully no more smoking wires.

[Derek up North]

5 hours ago, blazar4151 said:

So as soon as I start driving, will the house battery charge?

As soon as the engine is running, the house battery should start charging IF the isolator is working properly.