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Parts for 1994 Winnabego Micro Warrior


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I am looking to replace the brake light, backup light, and turn signal light on my 1994 micro warrrior.  Any idea where is the best place to find a replacement.  Also looking for a tailpipe and where to find one.  Looking to replace airbags.  Any suggestions on what brand and where to find.  Does anyone have info on where the best place would be to find parts for my Toyoto Micro Warrior just in case I need something.  Thanks for your help.

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I have a 94 Warrior also.   these are the parts I have installed which you inquired about.

The air bags I used are a bit of work to install, but anything different than what was there will have different install points. Glad I did, the old ones leaked.

Go to a muffler shop and have a tailpipe fabricated. You may find out the rest of the exhaust system is also shot.

The tail lights I got at AutoZone for about $50, they cost more now, that was  5 years ago.    They are Bargman part #47-84-005. I also installed a new flasher so the turn signal lights won't hyper flash.

Hope this helps.    Darrel

 

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Nice job!  Are the taillights full LED?

Edited by Odyssey 4x4
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I'm not sure I like this internet tracking. Just got a feed from Walmart about the Bargman light. $50 free shipping for one light. I paid $50 for two.    If you go this rout save the plastic mounting frame between the body and light. Its no longer available. I sanded and painter it.  

Yes they are LED.

Darrel

Edited by darrel
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If you have cruise control, the installation of LED lights will very likely stop the cruse control "off" function from working when you step on the brake pedal.  There is a mod to fix that, let me know if you need that info.

A previous post mentioned that you should address the "hyper flash" result that comes with installing LED lights.  The OEM flasher thinks that a bulb is burnt out because is monitors the very low resistance of the circuit through the bulb filament.  LED's are higher resistance so the flasher unit thinks a bulb failed and flashes very fast to tell you to change the bulb.  You have two options to get around this, you can install a LED compatible flasher or you can modify your existing flasher.  I was not successful in finding a compatible LED type flasher that fit and just went with the OEM flasher mod.  If you are handy with a soldering iron, here are those instructions in case you want to do that mod:

This is the OEM flasher module from the driver's side kick panel.  Remove it and take the plastic cover off to expose the circuit board.  You are going to replace a resistor.   This will trick the flasher into blinking at a normal rate even though it still thinks a bulb is out.  The resistor value controls the rate of flashing in this 'bulb failed' mode.  The flasher still thinks a bulb is out and thinks it's doing it's job by warning you to change the bulb, we have just changed that warning rate to be a normal flashing rate.  

image.png.c5377b775c82ea13154b2b5e0440d1ff.png

The 90k ohm resistor location shown in the photo below is used to establish the flash timing for the burnt out bulb portion of the flasher.  You’re going to replace that 90kohm resistor with a 220k ohm resistor, this will make the flashing time longer, and almost identical to the regular flash rate. The 90k ohm is very small and tucked up between the relay and two large capacitors.  Unsolder the resistor leads (shown from the back side of the board in the photo), and solder the new resistor in place.

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Get the smallest watt 220 k ohm you can find. Ohms isn't real critical, probably between 200k and 240k will work.  You can mount it vertical, but may need to put a sleeve on the lead to keep it from shorting out against the relay cage.  If you can't find a 220k ohm resistor, you can solder two or more resistors in series and add their values to come up with the 220k ohms. Before putting the relay back together, plug it in and make sure it works at the slower speed.

I did this mod with the intent of "fixing it the right way" later on but I've never gone back to do that and it's still working fine.  There is a short delay after the first flash every time you turn a turn signal as the flasher senses the fake bulb failure and then after that it kicks into the modified "bulb is burnt out" flasher rate that is controlled by the new resistor.

 

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Darrel!  Thanks for the information.  I bought a set of airlift 5000 and the mechanic told me one of the bags would hit and rub the gas tank.  Does the tailpipe go from the muffler out the side.  Thanks again.  May be asking you more questions in the future. Ports

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16 hours ago, ports said:

Looking to replace airbags.  Any suggestions on what brand and where to find.

etrailer dot com is a very helpful site and the people there have a clue too.  You can enter a Toyota Motorhome as your vehicle and it will find compatible parts.  The videos and other information about parts is very helpful.   It sounds like you already have an airbag system installed.  You may be able to simply replace the air bag piece and use all of the existing installed parts.  That could be easier/cheaper.

https://www.etrailer.com/

the full kit is: "Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Air Helper Springs with Internal Jounce Bumpers - Rear Axle Item # AL88113" model shown in the pics above is a nice option for you.  Costs ~$400 on their site but you can find it currently on ebay for $291.56

 

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34 minutes ago, ports said:

... mechanic told me one of the bags would hit and rub the gas tank. 

I won't argue about what someone told you, however I find it hard to believe an air spring on the rear axle would foul the gas tank which is in the standard Toyota location.  Propane tank, perhaps? Or do you have a 2nd gas tank?

Different manufacturers installed different 'stuff' in different locations, even between different models. Holding tanks, piping, exhausts, etc. Makes it hard to say if air springs can be installed as a bolt-on without modifications for clearances. I suspect why Firestone doesn't offer a kit for 'motorhomes' because of these variables/unknowns. Only Airlift is brave enough to do so and I suspect put up with various interference complaints.

As an example of these 'variables', National mounted the spare on the back wall, leaving the standard undermount position empty. The ran the propane line right through this empty space. Someone wanting to return the spare to the standard undermount location has to reroute the propane line.

http://cabbieland.byethost31.com/Sea-Breeze-Rear-Box.html?i=1

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The air bags come no where near the  gas tank. Get under there and look at how far the gas tank is away from the rear axle. You have a full sized 137 inch wheel base truck. I have a shorty 112 inch wheel base truck. Same rear axle and same gas tank. Airbags come no where near on mine and they would be farther away on yours. 

Linda S

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Like Linda said "the air bags come nowhere close to the fuel tank".

Yes the tail pipe runs along the left side and exits behind the rear wheel.

I remounted the spare wheel to its original position. Had to rewrought the propane lines. I did this because I installed a larger poop tank.

Darrel

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Thanks to all who responded to my topic.  I purchased my 94 Micro Warrior last April and I am trying to learn as much as possible so  can do most of the work.  No better place to learn than from experienced toyota motorhome owners who are willing to share their knowledge.  I will keep in touch. Ports

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  • 1 month later...
On 3/5/2019 at 8:13 AM, AtlantaCamper said:

If you have cruise control, the installation of LED lights will very likely stop the cruse control "off" function from working when you step on the brake pedal.  There is a mod to fix that, let me know if you need that info.

A previous post mentioned that you should address the "hyper flash" result that comes with installing LED lights.  The OEM flasher thinks that a bulb is burnt out because is monitors the very low resistance of the circuit through the bulb filament.  LED's are higher resistance so the flasher unit thinks a bulb failed and flashes very fast to tell you to change the bulb.  You have two options to get around this, you can install a LED compatible flasher or you can modify your existing flasher.  I was not successful in finding a compatible LED type flasher that fit and just went with the OEM flasher mod.  If you are handy with a soldering iron, here are those instructions in case you want to do that mod:

This is the OEM flasher module from the driver's side kick panel.  Remove it and take the plastic cover off to expose the circuit board.  You are going to replace a resistor.   This will trick the flasher into blinking at a normal rate even though it still thinks a bulb is out.  The resistor value controls the rate of flashing in this 'bulb failed' mode.  The flasher still thinks a bulb is out and thinks it's doing it's job by warning you to change the bulb, we have just changed that warning rate to be a normal flashing rate.  

image.png.c5377b775c82ea13154b2b5e0440d1ff.png

The 90k ohm resistor location shown in the photo below is used to establish the flash timing for the burnt out bulb portion of the flasher.  You’re going to replace that 90kohm resistor with a 220k ohm resistor, this will make the flashing time longer, and almost identical to the regular flash rate. The 90k ohm is very small and tucked up between the relay and two large capacitors.  Unsolder the resistor leads (shown from the back side of the board in the photo), and solder the new resistor in place.

image.png.b9f5a6ce8f63f645144672f4f1f0630a.png

Get the smallest watt 220 k ohm you can find. Ohms isn't real critical, probably between 200k and 240k will work.  You can mount it vertical, but may need to put a sleeve on the lead to keep it from shorting out against the relay cage.  If you can't find a 220k ohm resistor, you can solder two or more resistors in series and add their values to come up with the 220k ohms. Before putting the relay back together, plug it in and make sure it works at the slower speed.

I did this mod with the intent of "fixing it the right way" later on but I've never gone back to do that and it's still working fine.  There is a short delay after the first flash every time you turn a turn signal as the flasher senses the fake bulb failure and then after that it kicks into the modified "bulb is burnt out" flasher rate that is controlled by the new resistor.

 

Do you have information on how the led light installation affects cruise control. Is is somehow hooked into the activation of the brake lights? How do you fix this. We have a 93 warrior and are planning the brake led upgrade. Already completed the clearance lights. (BTW-love not having to hassle with burnt out incandescent bulbs and water in the fixtures). 

 

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1 hour ago, donttreadonme said:

Do you have information on how the led light installation affects cruise control. Is is somehow hooked into the activation of the brake lights? How do you fix this.

I have not actually competed this fix/modification on my rig yet because I don't use cruise control that much.  It's on my list; however, it looks like the info I have is not complete.  Maybe someone else can fill in the details.  

The cruise control is integrated with the stop light and uses the filament resistance and/or current to determine when to turn it off.  I believe that it also looks to see if there is a working bulb present before it will even turn on as well.  The LED's mess all of this up because they do not look/behave like a filament in the circuit.  So we have to modify the circuit to fool the cruise control into thinking that 1) there is a working filament (incandescent) bulb present when activating cruise control, and 2) when the brake light switch is pressed/activated we need to fool the cruise control into seeing this so it turns off when you press the brake pedal.  In the circuit below you can see one approach to doing this that requires a relay, diode and 100 ohm resistor.  Unfortunately I do not know the specs for each of these parts yet.  The relay needs to be small and low current so that it doesn't make a huge clicking sound every time you press the brake.   The diode and resistor need to be the right values and right now I don't know what they should be.  The diode may not even be essential.  When the brake switch is off the cruise control sees 100 ohms and will turn on because this is good enough to simulate a filament.  When the pedal is pressed the relay is activated and makes the connection that makes shows the cruise control  12V and this turns CC off.  I'll try to find more info but maybe someone else will know or perhaps post a better circuit that has been validated with toyhome cruise systems.

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Read my earlier post about the flasher I installed from auto zone. I use cruise control all the time, no problem with it turning off when I step on the breaks. This flasher flashes faster than the original but I wouldn't call it hyper flash. Darrel

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13 hours ago, darrel said:

Read my earlier post about the flasher I installed from auto zone.

Very interesting.  If I understand it correctly you solved the hyperflash and cruise control issues simultaneously by simply replacing the OEM flasher with the novita ep34 .  This seems like a simple and inexpensive thing to try.   They have one in stock at the 'Zone just down the street.  I'm assuming that I have to do a minor bit of extension wiring from the socket to connect the novita ep34  flasher outside of the kick panel because it's not a direct fit replacement of the original.   

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21 hours ago, darrel said:

flasher I installed from auto zone

I got the part and it was easy enough to install.  Indeed it works! - and the flasher rate seems very reasonable to me. I also found that it will turn off the cruise control too!  So it seems with this LED electronic flasher there is no need for a relay or diode.  When I push the brake pedal the power to the cruise control control unit is turned off.  

However, the flasher does not solve the issue of getting the cruise control to engage.  It seems mine still needs to see some low resistance to ground on the cold side of the brake pedal switch (which tells it that there is a working bulb present) before it will allow the cruise control to engage.  So as a test I wired a regular old 12V DC filament bulb between the cold side of the switch and ground.  When brake pedal goes down this bulb comes on in parallel with the LED lights.  I took it for a spin around the block and sure enough! the cruise control came on and then went off with the brake pedal.  Looks like I'm set!

I'll get a small power resistor at perhaps 100 ohms (which will send about 2 watts of power to ground) maybe a 10 watt rating or better resistor and that will give the dummy load needed to allow the cruise to engage.  And with this handy work around fix of using this nifty LED flasher it seems I no longer need to wire up a relay to fool the cruise control into turning off.

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For those that have the same CC module I'll post a little more info on this LED brake light cruise control modification issue.

This is the type of cruise control I have (no vacuum on servo):

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Those pictures above are taken from user "waiter" and the posts about experiences with this CC system.

I did an additional test now that I have a confirmed working system.  I was able to swap out my modified OEM flasher with the new Novita EP34 electronic flasher module and the cruise works properly with either flasher.  The reason I think this system is tolerant of the different types of flashers is because the CC module has connections to both sides of the brake switch and thus senses it pretty directly (see wiring table below) -  it's going to turn off when the switch is closed no matter what flasher is present.  The relay isn't necessary, but the low resistance path to ground on the cold side of the brake pedal switch must be present for this system to work.  

So it seems the key to the whole deal with fixing (this particular model of) cruise control after a LED brake light upgrade is to add a low resistance component from the cold side of the brake switch to ground.   This is how I've wired it now (basically stock with the addition of a resistor to ground on the cold side of the brake switch):

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This is the description of the wiring I found on a piece of paper wrapped around one set of wires:

Part 25004, OEM Replica Series Main Wiring Harness for Automatic or Manual transmission

These are the color/function for the wires on the electronic control unit connector (not equivalent to all wires on the two multi-pin connectors used to connect the arm and servo unit to the main electronic control module):
Red – Ignition Wire (12V source when key is on)
Orange – Hot wire of brake switch
Blue – Cold wire of brake switch
White – diesel only clutch switch (unused/not connected on mine)
Green – ground
Brown – to coil detector 
 

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The CC is working after the 100 ohm 10W resistor install.  10W may be on the low side as it still gets warm if you sit on the brake.  I put it in an extra heat sink to dissipate heat.  I'd suggest a higher wattage resistor if you are about to do this mod for yourself.  Otherwise its working correctly.  However, I'm unable to get CC to maintain speed at over 59 mph.   If I engage above 59 it slows down to 59 and then holds speed.  Another user (Waiter, now gone from the forum) had the same issue but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue on this particular model of cruise control and successfully made it work above 59 mph?  I'm assuming it's a matter of adjustment but it's a bit time consuming to systematically do the tests because you have to get the rig moving each time you make an adjustment...  There are three things that can be adjusted:

 "input frequency adjustment" this is likely the main thing that impacts the max speed, but apparently adjusting this also impacts the other two adjustment parameters. 

 "centering adjust" - adjust this until speed when "engaged" button hit is the speed the rig maintains.

"system sensitivity"  - rate of increase when hitting a hill for example.

Maybe three is some other adjustment/factor I'm not taking into account to override this low speed max with cruise control.  Thanks for any help.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I did determine that the "input frequency adjustment" will change the max speed that the cruise control will maintain.  Before adjustment (likely factory setting) the max was 59 mph, now I can change the frequency to allow for faster speeds in cruise control

I had to adjust it about a quarter of a turn towards the "B" label to get it to go up to about 68 mph as the max speed in CC.  Moving towards "A" reduces the max speed allowed.

I did not make any changes to 'centering' or 'sensitivity' as the system seems to be functioning fine for the moment.

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