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I'm not sure if this helps, but I believe my installer reused the old sleeves. I remember the same issue that the OME bushings arrived without sleeves. I also remember seeing videos where the old bushings were cut away to access the old sleeves. I didn't have to order the greaseless shake kit. Sorry, this was a while and many mods ago so my recall is imperfect. 

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Try some 1/2” bronze pipe nipples. That might work.

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Posted (edited)

I have the same OME springs sitting here about to be installed on my 1985 Escaper. My chassis is a 1984 Toyota Pickup.

I ordered the OME Shackles and the bushing kit you have. The OME Shackle kit fits the bushings perfectly. I don't need a sleeve and according to the OME install sheet, the shackles are optional, but to me if I'm going to replace 38 year old suspension I might as well do it right. I have similar shackles on an old Jeep CJ7 I redid and 20 years later they still look new and are easily greased. I don't know about your particular situation, but I can tell you mine is easy peasy.

Edited by lansisco
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On 5/29/2021 at 6:32 PM, MattM said:

Wondering if anyone else has found the solution here: I've just pulled off my old leaf springs and am ready to replace them with the CS010R springs, but I'm struggling to figure out how to use the old hardware with these new bushings. I ordered the OMESB6 bushing kit with the springs, but the center holes are far too large for the bolts and the kit didn't come with any of the metals sleeves I would've expected. My shackles are in good shape, so I'm hoping to not have to order the OME greasable shackle kit (which might solve the sizing issue on the back of the spring, but would still leave me needing sleeves for the front). I know a few people have installed these kits before (@akwcanoe, @AtlantaCamper, @mpanzar), so I'm wondering what I'm missing....

 

Bolts seem to be 1/2" and the bushing hole is at 11/16", so as best I can figure, I'm needing some metal sleeves 1/2"ID x 11/16"OD x 2 11/16"L - all my web searches are turning up nothing, and I haven't seen anything from OME that meantions sleeves.

I have a pair of sleeves that I don't need, they came with a bushing kit I'm using part of. Would you like me to ship them to you for free?

 

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wow - yeah, that would be fantastic @lansisco, thanks!

 

I actually ended up ordering some sleeve bearings from McMaster-Carr that I seem to line up with my measurements, but I would be curious to see how they compare with the real thing. I can post the comparison here in case it might be useful to other folks.

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Posted (edited)

1985 Escaper, 1984 Toyota Pickup, 22R, 4 speed manual, carbureted. 97,000 Miles

 

My rear suspension job is finished! I ended up with some very positive results. I bought the following:

CS010R Old Man Emu springs, $254

OMESB6 Old Man Emu Spring Bushings ,2 were needed  $48

OMEGS3 Old Man Emu Greaseable Shackles & Pins Kit: $119

04482-35030 Leaf Spring Pins, Genuine Toyota parts from the dealer, 2 were needed: $61.22 

Bilstein Shocks 24-002585 Pair of B6 4600, $178.54

Mobil 1 grease, $10 

I didn't need new U bolts because mine were nearly new from the rear axle replacement by the previous owner. He had added a leaf to the spring pack so the length was fine so I saw no reason to replace shiny U bolts that have less than 5k miles on them. 

 

Total for parts $670.76, plus about $60 bucks shipping because I had to buy each part from a separate vender due to supply shortages. I spent another 40 bucks on blades for my reciprocating saw to cut one of the spring pins out. 

The job took me and a buddy about 6 hours total. If we did it again I bet it would take 4. 

 

Results as measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground:

 

Rear Drivers  Old: 23 1/2 (23.5)   New: 25 1/8 (25.125) Difference: 1.625 Inches

Rear Passenger Old: 24 1/4 (24.25) New: 25 3/8 (25.375)  Difference: 1.125 Inches


For about $800 bucks my ride has improved greatly! The reason I made the decision to replace the rear suspension was due to a shock mount breaking off of the frame. I realized I'd been riding on the bottomed out shocks! Very unsafe and it needed immediate attention.

My springs came with a + and - sign on them, because they were either a bit high in arch, or a bit low. I find this truly amazing that they do this because I was able to take a 3/4 inch heigh differential down to a 1/4 inch differential between the drivers and passenger side, as measured by the rear tire. 

My stove used to shake violently when I went over any bump or roughness, now it is silent! Going over transitions in pavement is now smooth instead of rough. The whole experience has improved greatly.


Thoughts:

Patience paid off! I took my sweet time figuring out the combination of parts and my needs. I didn't jump into a decision. This is key when making big changes to a 38 year old vehicle. 

Buying quality paid off. I bought the best parts I could find because I know that in the long run it will be the cheapest way to maintain my Toyota. I have been wrenching a while and I've never been let down by quality parts. 

 

I will be replacing the front shocks and torsion bars soon. I have the shocks already but the torsion bars are on back order. In the meantime I will tinker with the torsion bar adjustment this weekend to see what is going on there. I have a suspicion that they are not properly adjusted at all.

 

I hope this helps others! Thank you all for your posts, it has given me the ability to take on some pretty intense projects.

A special thanks to Linda S for her knowledge! I'd be nowhere without her posts.

 

 

 

 

Edited by lansisco
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Well done. I have the same year of truck under my Sunrader. Did much the same rear suspension work as you have. Am considering Timbrin replacements for my stock bumpstops.

I look forward to your comments on your front end work. I have 1 ton hubs and discs waiting to go in and would consider other mods/upgradeds at that time. Need to find some calipers. Again great work and nice results. 

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19 hours ago, lansisco said:

Results as measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground:

 

Rear Drivers  Old: 23 1/2 (23.5)   New: 25 1/8 (25.125) Difference: 1.625 Inches

Rear Passenger Old: 24 1/4 (24.25) New: 25 3/8 (25.375)  Difference: 1.125 Inches

 

Hope you got some before and after pics?

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41 minutes ago, jimiflow said:

 

Hope you got some before and after pics?

I do, but they aren't terribly dramatic. You just see more tire in the wheel well. I'll post them when I get some better "after" shots, I didn't have time to take many after getting the job done. We just had the blacktop sealed today so no cruising this weekend until the blacktop is good and dry. 

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Posted (edited)

I've decided to add air bags to my motorhome. After the new springs and shocks I've gotten a better ride. However, I'm still only 3 inches from bottoming out the shocks. The bump stops are more like 6 inches of travel from the axle so they are useless.

Also, I now have even more sway than ever. It is pretty sketchy actually and in the wind it is more than I'm comfortable with. 

I ordered the https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G92P4S/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

air bag kit. I'm hoping this takes care of both a slight amount of height increase as well as better sway control.

Any thoughts?

Edited by lansisco
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I installed the air lift bags on my 1987 escaper and have been very happy with them. Not difficult to install and have given the rear of my camper the lift it needed. I did not have significant sway issues prior to install but my camper was sitting low. Added new shocks and air bags, not new leaf springs. I inflate to about 40psi when my motorcycle is on the back and you wouldn't know it was there. Good luck with yours. 

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33 minutes ago, Scott iv said:

I installed the air lift bags on my 1987 escaper and have been very happy with them. Not difficult to install and have given the rear of my camper the lift it needed. I did not have significant sway issues prior to install but my camper was sitting low. Added new shocks and air bags, not new leaf springs. I inflate to about 40psi when my motorcycle is on the back and you wouldn't know it was there. Good luck with yours. 

Excellent advice! Did your Escaper have bags from the factory? Mine didn't appear to.

 

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Yea, I have seen other Escapers on here over the years with the factory air bags. I never saw one with functional factory bags; always pictures of them in a state of dry rot and dysfunction. 

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Why are the 1975 through 1978 years seen as unmentionables for leaf springs or air bags? 

If I remove my bump stops, I have five inches between truck frame and axle top.

Is five inches enough space to fit air bags?

Can Scott iv, or someone with AIR LIFT 57113 LoadLifter 5000 Series tell me what height those have?

(And / or maybe, what height is required).

Thanks in advance, Ron

20210608_123755.jpg

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PS: How do you like the leaf spring dampers that were on my springs? See photo.

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Ron, it looks like you have more clearance thanIMG_20210608_191446437.jpg.401e378818703c1dcccd27215462633a.jpgIMG_20210608_191503993.jpg.9ad6e635bc93dcf9f062ffd5dd2179d3.jpgIMG_20210608_191636130_HDR.jpg.d189d2be690e193d479fd3cf65592aa6.jpg I had before install. I removed the bump stop and bought the air lift bags with the bump stop built in in case they failed. The air lift bags they sell for the toyota motorhomes are not like those pictured in their advertisement with 2 humps. The bags are just one hump. I'm betting they would fit your motorhome without issue. Look on their website for the measurement. They are toyota motorhome friendly and you can do a search on their site for the ones that go on our truck. I'd call before purchasing to make certain. 

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Excellent reply, Scott. Thank you, very much.

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Following advice by Scott IV, I called Air Lift, to ask about their 57113 Loadlifter air bags. I was told that the 5 inch space that '75 thru '78 have by removing the bump stop would provide a proper working space for the bags. He stopped short of guaranteeing the parts for my usage. I was only looking for an insiders perspective and thanked him for that. Thank you all for slogging through what ultimately affects only a small percentile of this group. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/23/2021 at 11:11 AM, kevinchinook said:

Thank you! I ordered the springs from 4wheelparts for curbside pickup. Hopefully will have them installed in a couple of weeks along with new bushings. Still need to measure the shackle bolts and order them ahead time as I have a feeling the current ones won't be usable after removal.

 

Still can't figure out how to get the spare tire to drop and neither could the guys at the tire shop. For all we can tell access to drop is blocked by the rear bumper which is welded to the frame.

 

 

Just dropping an update for other users to use caution when ordering from 4wheelparts. Ordered my springs back in April and they are still back-ordered. Summit racing got them to my doorstop in 3 days.  Smog check next monday and then off to the spring shop on tuesday for install.

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The problem with not having a definitive way to go, concerning a '78 truck leaf springs (Off Road place said check with Toyo forums, Toyo forums said check with Off Road places, …), and not wanting to fake out with air bags, I chose to pay the big bucks and have my old springs cold hammered and added 3 more per side. He said it would be good for 15 years, which may or may not out-last me. Its so nice. My air shocks now seem non-consequential.

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At last got the new CS010R leaf springs, bushings and Blistein shocks in. One shock was backordered for 6 weeks! Just need to reinstall the blackwater tank and she's good to go. On to interior fixings next year! (Some new cabinets and doors, cushion covers etc...). Thanks to everyone for the info. Check out the difference! (Springs were from 4wheelparts in Canada - ordered in April and had them since the end of May - had to run to a local spring shop when she was on my mechanics lift as the original U bolts were almost 2" short).

20190717_110315.jpg

20210714_164953_HDR.jpg

Edited by Trollmessiah
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12 hours ago, linda s said:

That looks great. Bet it drives a lot nicer too

Linda S

Like switching from a square bow boat in choppy water to a deep v boat in still water!

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I have an Escaper that is heavier and I'm not happy with the 10's since I'm still sitting too low. I've ordered the extra spring and will be installing them soon. I'll update when I'm done. For bigger RV's I think the Old Man Emu 20's may be more appropriate. I certainly wish I'd had them initially instead of having to add another spring 2 weeks later.

 

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One of our members with the full sized Sunrader bought the 20's and had to remove a leaf. Don't think the Sunrader weighs any less than the Escaper when the same length. Curious

Linda S

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

One of our members with the full sized Sunrader bought the 20's and had to remove a leaf. Don't think the Sunrader weighs any less than the Escaper when the same length. Curious

Linda S

I'll weigh mine and give feedback. My shocks are the correct length and there is only a few inches to go down until bottoming out. The bump stops never touch the axle no matter how low things go because the shocks literally bottom out first. I'm not sure why the bump stops are even there. I am still unhappy with the amount of sway from wind! It is really unnerving and I'm an experienced driver. I am curious as to how much my front torsion bars have to do with the sway due to wind. I've ordered some new ones but it has been 1.5 months and still on backorder. They are from sway away.com

 

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How old are those shocks. Would love to see a pic of your new springs. Something is wrong with something I just don't know what. Good shocks don't bottom out even when your springs are flat

Linda S

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The KYB and Bilstein shocks for a Toy House have a compressed length of about 14".

Edited by WME
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