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1989 V6 Dolphin 65,000 miles:

Got a quote last year for $500 from a local mechanic, which I thought sounded cheap.

  Then I was in a different mecanic shop in town the other day and asked them about doing a valve adjustment on my Dolphin.  Off the top of there head they said 1.5 to 2 hrs of work and expect around $200-$300!  Called them today and they called me back and said they would have to replace a gasket, and they could get the shims in town, $315! And it would be done before lunch.  Is there anything I should be aware of??? 

The timing belt was replaced at 59,000 before I bought the vehicle..

Thanks, Eric

Edited by Badgerbear
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19 minutes ago, Badgerbear said:

1989 V6 Dolphin 65,000 miles:

Got a quote last year for $500 from a local mechanic, which I thought sounded cheap.

  Then I was in a different mecanic shop in town the other day and asked them about doing a valve adjustment on my Dolphin.  Off the top of there head they said 1.5 to 2 hrs of work and expect around $200-$300!  Called them today and they called me back and said they would have to replace a gasket, and they could get the shims in town, $315! And it would be done before lunch.  Is there anything I should be aware of??? 

The timing belt was replaced at 59,000 before I bought the vehicle..

Thanks, Eric

Having done this job, I would suggest that $300 is a scary low price, and I'd want to know how familiar they are with the 3.0, if they've done the job before.

Still if it seems like a good shop, with a good rep, I guess you could run with it, let them find out the hard way...

Wherever you have it done, I think it's reasonable to ask what the clearances were initially vs after the adjustment. They've got to jot down those numbers somewhere anyway, to know which shims to use, and it would give you some peace of mind (which is the main reason to pursue the dreaded valve adjustment).

 

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about 2 months ago, I went to the local Toyota dealer to inquire about the "dreaded" valve adjustment for my 92 Winnie warrior. it has 57k now. 53k when I bought it 3yrs ago.  most of the service techs, aka mechanics at the dealership were younger than my Winnie ! they did not have a clue, but the service manager  referred me to a shop in town by a former Toyota mechanic that opened his own business after leaving the dealership, many years ago.. I went to visit this fellow and he was very knowledgeable in regards to the 3.0 engine and the valve adjustment procedure. he informed me that the adjustment requires a special tool to perform the work, and  because of the amount of labor involved,  I could expect to pay between $1.200 and $1,500. the price of $315.00 sounds scary cheap to me. not to mention, "done before lunch". I would sure want to know if this was their first time doing this repair, or if they are old timers with this .  on the other hand, you maybe getting the deal of a lifetime, or the rest of us are paying way too much.  would be interested knowing how this develops for you. good luck. joe from dover.

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Worst part of the job is getting all of the crap out of the way to get to the shims. $315 is cheap $1,500 is way over the top Even at $100 an hour 15 hours is novice time. So the guy is retired working at home figures his labor at $50 that 6.3 hours that's an honest time for the job.

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Hmm. I think I'm leaning towards running with it and telling them I want to no the valve clearances were?  I will also ask if they have done the valve adjustment on a 3.0 before.  I haven't had work done from this mechanic yet, but it seems to have a good reputation and it's a nice big shop. .. Del-Carpine in Hood River, OR

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Certainly ask for the valve clearances before and after and maybe even ask to see his calculations. :)

BTW, the 'special tool' is about $15 (from memory) on Ebay.

EDIT. Better make that $30. :)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCHLEY-88250-SHIM-STYLE-VALVE-ADJUSTING-TOOL-FOR-TOYOTA-LEXUS-MADE-IN-USA/262307436734?epid=655773880&hash=item3d12bdd8be:g:6YwAAOSw0JpV5jc9

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When I had my valves adjusted on my 4 banger was around $300 so I believe Linda is correct!

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Please bring all your 22RE's to Maine I'll do them for $250 by the end of the day I'll have a good two grand in my pocket. I'll even feed you lunch with an ice cold IPA. Buy the way the "tool" for valve adjustment on a 3L is payed for on the first job.

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They know it's a v6 3.0, not the 4 banger.

I'm not sure how I will know if they did a proper job other than getting the valve clearances, but I will keep you posted.

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Update:

Just got a call from the mechanic and they  said " we pulled in the Toyota and this has the shim over a bucket valve train, so there is no adjustment. There is no rocker arm where the lifters are. I had my mechanic pull off one of the valve covers to verify this. There is no charge and we put a new gasket on and you are good to go.  There is no ticking or noise so I don't believe you are having any issue and the low miles (65,000) we believe you are good to go"

Edited by Badgerbear
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Yes the shim and bucket can be adjusted and no they don't make noise because they don't get loose they get too tight. Maybe you should have shown him the recommended service schedule. You could have probably downloaded it and printed. Valves are supposed to be adjusted at 60,000 miles.

Linda S

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Thanks Linda, I will mention that to them. I just called the Toyota dealership to ask them about the valve adjustment on a 3.0 V6 and they said they would highly recommend to not ever adjust the valves unless you hear noise. They said something about it being a low pressure system that's highly lubricated so it doesn't need adjusted very often. They said it can be done but it's a really hard job to avoid at all costs.

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I would suggest that you are probably okay, for now, at 65K. However, I can speak from experience that some very tight clearances can develop on the 3.0 by the time you hit 85K (when I did the job on mine). I'm glad I didn't wait longer, and I could definitely tell a difference in the smoothness of idle and ability to accelerate, after the fact.

I'm sure you've googled this stuff already and seen that opinions vary as to whether or not the adjustment is a must-do. Still, the comments from your mechanic (they didn't know it was a shim-over-bucket setup until they pulled the valve covers?!) indicate that they know very little about the 3VZE. And, I also think that dealerships just don't like to do the job either because it's a real stinker to get to the shims—even once you can see them, just removing them can be pretty difficult.

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Toyota agrees that it doesn't have to be done 'very often'. That's why the Service Schedule calls for it @60k mile intervals and not the 'often' @ 30k miles of the 22RE. As Linda said, unlike the 22RE, the 3VZE clearances decrease and get quieter with miles, so noise is not a good indicator of clearances. Tight clearances will lead to burnt valves.

1993 Maintenance Schedule - 2.jpg

1993 Maintenance Schedule (con't).jpg

1993 Maintenance Schedule.jpg

 

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Thanks for posting that up.  I have it printed and will show the mechanic.  Well I'm just gonna roll with it I suppose, because I definitely can't afford $1000 on this job right now.  I know a guy down the street that got the valve adjustment done on his 3.0 motorhome in Sandy, OR and was really happy with the work. I Will try that, but for now I'm going on my first real road trip! Washington-Colorado-Kansas and back!

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In the shim and bucket design the shim is the adjustment. IMHO find another shop and be ready to spend a few bucks more.

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28 minutes ago, Ctgriffi said:

I would suggest that you are probably okay, for now, at 65K. However, I can speak from experience that some very tight clearances can develop on the 3.0 by the time you hit 85K (when I did the job on mine). I'm glad I didn't wait longer, and I could definitely tell a difference in the smoothness of idle and ability to accelerate, after the fact.

I'm sure you've googled this stuff already and seen that opinions vary as to whether or not the adjustment is a must-do. Still, the comments from your mechanic (they didn't know it was a shim-over-bucket setup until they pulled the valve covers?!) indicate that they know very little about the 3VZE. And, I also think that dealerships just don't like to do the job either because it's a real stinker to get to the shims—even once you can see them, just removing them can be pretty difficult.

Yep, probably won't go to this mechanic again. I asked them when I dropped it off if they have done valve adjustment on the 3vze before, and they said oh yeah especially on those Toyota motorhomes. I asked him again the 3.0 V6 they said yep no problem

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4 hours ago, Badgerbear said:

Thanks Linda, I will mention that to them. I just called the Toyota dealership to ask them about the valve adjustment on a 3.0 V6 and they said they would highly recommend to not ever adjust the valves unless you hear noise. They said something about it being a low pressure system that's highly lubricated so it doesn't need adjusted very often. They said it can be done but it's a really hard job to avoid at all costs.

That is the problem if you hear a noise there is clearance if you don't then they are too tight! The 3L was known for tight valve clearance that caused degraded performance and eventually burnt valves. The 4L more modern V6 is a "listen" engine they get adjusted if they are noisy at a 100 grand all 24 of them if you can't stand the noise. My guess is they don't have anyone old enough to know how to do it or actually wants to. In your case I would do a compression check if they find one  a good bit lower than the others I would find someone to check the clearance.

Edited by Maineah
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  • 2 weeks later...

having done a 6 cylinder valve job, I suspect your shop has not a clue about what they are getting into......    

 

done right,  by a sharp mechanic, with all the right tools AND parts (special shims are need and there are a bunch of possible sizes) , well maybe - but odds are better you and I will win the big lottery tomorrow.

Doing the  VZ3E toyota engine  valve adjustment requires a lot more work then a "normal" valve job........

BTW, there are 3 gaskets involved.

Also there are a number of threads on this forum detailing the process.

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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The fun really starts when you do a valve job grinding the valves and seats then often standard shims won't work! There is a work around but I won't go into that.

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when I adjusted mine, I set the exhaust valves to the biggest end of the spec range - now they rattle when it is cold, but the engine runs better.

After reading your report on what the mechanics said, I believe I would avoid that shop.....

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2 hours ago, DanAatTheCape said:

... I set the exhaust valves to the biggest end of the spec range...

Sounds like a reasonable move since the V6 valves tend to tighten with use. But I'll be a shop wouldn't take the extra time to do that. Within tolerance? Good to go! Even if it's a thou from being 'tight'. :)

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