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A project that might yield an MH someday from the ghost of an '86 Conquest


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Samples of glazing bead arrived. They all look the same to me. Tried comparing with the existing bead, still no help. Samples have codes on them, but no details. Need to check what fits in the window instead.

Took out all vents except for the 14inches. Scraped the roof some more. It wants more scraping. All vents, fans are here, but I am still patching holes. More holes, more patching. Another day. Repeat.

Cut a piece of craft wood to replace the counter with hand tools (ill advised) -- the saw wasnt working at the box store. I didnt too much sawing other than thin plywood.

Finally got the bumper cleaned up to be painted, two rattle cans later it wants to be black, not white.

Most parts, toilet, sink, faucets, wood, seats, cushions are all here. Just waiting on the roof to be patched and then built up from inside. Way too many holes.

Very very slow. I was hoping for a lick of primer inside before taking more pictures.  It might be a while.

Meanwhile one holding strap each on gray and black tanks wants replacement. Old straps are rusted and twisted. They are mounted to the frame with these long bolts and a single nut with almost impossible to reach location, extensions or not. And they are rusted together, no amount of wd40 moves them. How do you get these nuts off when the bolts are free rotating, you cant use two tools and its practically impossible to get there anyway.

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Use an angle grinder to just cut the straps. Drop the tanks and you will have working room to make a proper remount

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25 minutes ago, WME said:

Use an angle grinder to just cut the straps. Drop the tanks and you will have working room to make a proper remount

I would, WME, but dropping means also cutting/taking off the other strap (also rusted but functional for both) and two L brackets each (same here too), and all the ABS connections. All ABS connections are badly cemented and would also have to be cut. The tanks will some day come out to fix the rear rot, but there is a bit too much on the plate now to add this whole new project.

There is some hope I might be able to get to them from the top -- the top is bare to the OSB and I wonder if there is access below the shower pan. It is raised by a couple inches, so I wonder whats underneath! Perhaps just OSB with holes for the pipes, perhaps larger cutouts. Wouldnt surprise me if the OSB needed help/reconstruction in this watery corner.

I might also try taping a test tube or sandwich bag full of WD40 around the bolts to try to dissolve the rust by submerging the bolts.

The idea to simply cut them is a good one. For now will just cut the rear straps and can replace them with ratcheting straps. As usual, it means I will need to buy a tool. The angle grinder. The best I have for cutting right now is a harbor freight version of the dremel. Probably too small for heavy cutting like this.

Edited by neubie
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On 8/20/2017 at 9:26 AM, Derek up North said:

I'd suggest you try some PB Blaster or Kroil. Save the WD40 for drying your ignition wires. :)

Well nothing has done anything so far. I am toying with the idea of an impact driver to loosen things up. Failing that, try to cut them off and mount the new ones over.

Where does one get the new ones? I cant find holding tank straps on any of the common websites, perhaps I am looking in the wrong place or searching for the wrong word.

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1 hour ago, neubie said:

Well nothing has done anything so far. I am toying with the idea of an impact driver to loosen things up. Failing that, try to cut them off and mount the new ones over.

Where does one get the new ones? I cant find holding tank straps on any of the common websites, perhaps I am looking in the wrong place or searching for the wrong word.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Basset-Products-3-4-in-x-50-ft-Perforated-Galvanized-Steel-Duct-Strap-DS50-1-28G/205871091?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D26P-AirCirculation|&gclid=CjwKCAjwrO_MBRBxEiwAYJnDLJU5pB-7cKJC5YFxlJ7qAqLRUJ5Looyf21EPrDnAIxJKciWApWuSvxoC1c8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIewjM-y69UCFUs5TwodgbsG1Q

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3 hours ago, linda s said:

Thanks Linda, thats probably it. These dont look like old ones. Old ones dont have any holes and have a rubber backing where they touch the tank. But, in a reconstruction all is fair game. Hopefully less rust with these. Do folks line them with something too?

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My original tank straps have no lining. Guess it depended on the manufacturer. Finding original parts for a motorhome made 30 years ago is really close to  impossible. You work with what's available and these pipe straps are the closest your going to find.

Linda S

Flat rubber pieces that you could cut to cushion the corners are available at most hardware stores

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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:

Looks like you could make one out of an old inner tube. :)

I would Derek, but inner tubes are hard to come by too. If Macgyvering is the way then something will come up here or there as replacement.

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Among things that needed to happen, paint and primer  cans finally were opened. At least starting the Kilz flowing. A bunch of wood has primer on it. A rattle can of rustoleum took care of the bumper rust after a bit of sanding. Still need a coat of black coat and perhaps even clear on top.

The bath fan vent was rusted but functional, so it took a bit of marine white topside. Same will coat the generator space and then the propane tank.

The roof got all the screw holes for the roof rack closed with more bondo.  There is too much space around the black and gray vents. Will cut an ABS slipon piece to make a little hat for the pipes before butyl and such.

Tomorrow or so, the roof should be ready to take some eternabond tape over known closed leaks. I have closed so many holes now, and two months of solid sun means things are pretty dry inside and out. Still a bit of delaminated ply to scrape on the inside, but I can at least start poking the wiring back into place.

Basically the ladder is the remaining weak spot in the roof. It needs to come down, has to be repaired and then reinstalled. All the trim plastic are out, trim needs to come off on all four corners and bent back into shape before reinstallation.

Endless to-do list.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you're local, you can check this place out for used parts.

RV Recyclers 3391 Fitzgerald, Ste B Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
1-916-635-9303, FAX 1-916-635-3776, or 1-888-635-9303

Other than that my hat is off for you. This is a massive project; on the positive side, once you're done, you basically have almost brand new or better than new RV done to your liking

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4 hours ago, Nam said:

If you're local, you can check this place out for used parts.

RV Recyclers 3391 Fitzgerald, Ste B Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
1-916-635-9303, FAX 1-916-635-3776, or 1-888-635-9303

Other than that my hat is off for you. This is a massive project; on the positive side, once you're done, you basically have almost brand new or better than new RV done to your liking

I looked for this place and was never able to find it. Don't think they are in business anymore 

Linda S

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Sacramento is surely in the future, but lord knows when. And if you have been wondering why there havent been any recent pictures or real updates then its because not much is changing materially. You would think that wash after wash would make things clean. But no, every nook and cranny is full of grease and grime that takes countless tries to expose the metal or fiberglass. Plus the heat. If its 110 out, then the roof is probably and easily at 150. Nothing gets done daily, may be a small change weekly. Dont try this at home kids!

On the positive side, All the edge moulding is replaced. All of the old dried plastic gone. Of course, it means 100s of screws were also replaced. Still need to finish sealing. Marker lights are moved over to LED. The red ones were easy, the middle three orange ones are a bear to get to, so they will take time. The ladder had leaks and had become a water tank. So its down for the moment. All exterior plastic is now new, except for two debrominated hatch covers. window glazing bead still needs to get on. Then more sealing. Thats about it on progress.

You are right, at the end appliances would have warranty and all touchable parts in the coach would be new. But its really not worth it. There will remain some rotted wood in the walls that has escaped detection. And the truck of course will remain old, even if with new hoses, accessories. My goal is to keep it so light that the truck has to deal with considerably less effort on a regular basis to lug the coach about. Lets see.

The whole thing will run into 2018 for sure at the rate I can arrange for things to happen. Hopefully some pictures later today.

 

 

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Well if your in Rancho Cordova and can't find the place, its a short drive to Dr. Georges.  http://rvdoctorgeorge.com/

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2 hours ago, linda s said:

I looked for this place and was never able to find it. Don't think they are in business anymore 

Linda S

Google's Satellite and Street views doesn't show much of anything the could be an RV junk yard/recycler. Looks like smaller vehicles out back.

https://www.google.ca/maps/@38.5797177,-121.258165,3a,15y,68.39h,91.34t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1siPDpHCwrhxtjK1_mC--ktg!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo3.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DiPDpHCwrhxtjK1_mC--ktg%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D74.2253%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656?dcr=0

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On to the state of affairs, look hard to notice changes. Front markers are faded and havent been changed yet, other than that the outside is new plastic. And closed cell foam. And DICOR. And eternabond. And screws. The license plate light hole turned out to be too big, larger light has been in the mail forever, just doesnt get here.

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So after months of tearing up rotten wood, changing plastic, poking epoxy through holes, sticking eternabond patches, butyl tape and epoxy, not to mention replacing every screw across seams and adding missing roof vents, now I have some hope things are somewhat sealed. At the roof level anyway. Still working from windows on down.

The question is how to test the roof seal without soaking the guts. I dont want to build the roof on the inside without some comfidence in the state above. And obviously dont want to just turn the hose on and go poking inside (has to be a one person test).

How do you folks test your roof repairs? Is there a soap bubble gas test equivalent?

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Today I tested the orange markers. As expected, the front middle three dont work. Oh, and someone left a note on the hood "if you would like to sell this vehicle...". It is supposed to rain soon, so I have been busy gooping mr car without any regard to appearance. You cant see inside the empty shell, there are no major dents or anything but it is missing its ears and shouldnt look like an enticing prospect but there you have it. Booty, like beauty, eyes of the beholden, or some such.

On a serious note, there is the possibility of water falling out the sky next week. And I keep finding leaks. Got my work cut out for the next couple warm days. Stick, smear, poke and squirt goop at any possibility of a leak to save what dried up.  If there isnt major damage after the wetness then regular programming can resume.

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Hillbilly leak check. Sealup the windows with tape, tape a box fan in the largest window and let it blow in. It will pressurize the house and you can get up on the roof with soapy water and look for bubbles.

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3 hours ago, WME said:

Hillbilly leak check. Sealup the windows with tape, tape a box fan in the largest window and let it blow in. It will pressurize the house and you can get up on the roof with soapy water and look for bubbles.

Thank you WME.

Windows are already taped for painting for the most part. I cant get up on the roof because its just aluminium right now, and I have to close quite a few holes (battery vent, kitchen vent, poop hole, screw holes etc. But the idea will work, I will have to find a way of sticking a battery operated box fan in one of the vents with the vent barely open. The results may not be very reliable in my case (too many holes in the damn floor -- no carpet in cab, all water lines out, no ac or dc wiring right now) but I suppose I can always go to the next step and use compressed air if I get some confidence in the method after a bit of practice. Will give me a reason to locate all the compressor hose tips I have  conveniently misplaced. Seems like smoke of some kind might be a better dry option but not sure there is a good way of creating smoke.

I now first plan on just coating the seams with soapy water then blowing air into the house however I can and see if it shows something. Still 2 days to keep gumming up all the joints and seams and try to stay dry.

edit: on second thoughts, one of my concerns is water getting into the walls and rotting what little remains of them. There is not much bad that can happen to the plastic dash in the empty cab, or osb in the house proper unless it floods. I need to test the walls and the cabover more seriously than the roof. More food for thought.

Edited by neubie
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After much poking of the seams to test for gaps, poking more goop into anything that looked like a gap I am confident there are still many leaks. But I am pooped with all the sealing. Hopefully it keeps generally dry. Only the front cabover window wasnt touched yet because its hard to get to. Its quite gooped already. Lets see how rain treats it, Cant be bothered to water test. Hopefully more demolition is not in the future.

Roof interior is next, whenever water subsides.

Edited by neubie
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2 coats of Snow Coat Elastomeric.(Wal Mart) Properly done its good for 4-5 years. Go to a big box store and look at the same type of stuff for mobile homes. I found stuff with a 10 year warranty if used with matching primer

Edited by WME
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2 hours ago, WME said:

2 coats of Snow Coat Elastomeric.(Wal Mart) Properly done its good for 4-5 years. Go to a big box store and look at the same type of stuff for mobile homes. I found stuff with a 10 year warranty if used with matching primer

Thanks WME. Have elastomeric handy for nearly two months, but the tear down and hole filling was in the way. Then the cabover and rear seams. Now the impending rain.

The main roof itself is just the aluminium shell right now pending rebuild that should show spots or sunlight if there were left over holes. window glazing beads are freshly installed. All vents are newly installed, the roof rack holes are well patched, canopy holes are patched and filled. The seam/edge moulding is new, and two seams have new screws.  And its an empty shell that will not be impossible to dry except for a deluge.

My worry is for the upper portions of the wall that had so far survived all odds dry. If the seams leak, then the walls will need to be redone. That would be another straw on the camels back. I need to redo the caulk on the edges or replace the seam moulding altogether. I am trying to leave that to next year. May be it will be ok. The car saw a lot of water, so dry parts must have some butyl helping it.

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Yep been there. I remove the aluminum trim molding, a major PIA a million of rusted screws. After the molding was finaly off , I used vice grips to grab and turn the screws that rusted in half.

I used a product called Pro-Seal 34 to seal the gap between the side and roof. I then used a wide butyl tape to overlap everything  top and side. Bought new stainless screws one size larger and put the molding back on and a new trim strip.

You should buy some trim strip now and just let it sit in the sun till you need it,it will help to preshrink it.

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Just bought and installed the vinyl trim strips and window glazing beads all around -- fridge vent, generator enclosure, entry door, seams and sides. They sat in 100+ degrees for month or two before going on so I am hoping preshrunk by installation.  Even after new screws in driverside front and passangerside rear, I feel like whole new aluminium seams all round is the only answer. And thats where I have chickened out this year. Next year,who knows.

Water seems to have wandered off, may not rain. So may be time for a wash in the afternoon if there is time left after some cleanup and tool organisation. Tomorrow I want to start putting the roof back together.

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I finally started rebuilding the roof, one panel at a time. Today is also the day I discovered there are airbags on the conquest. Not inflated from the look of it.

After fixing a million leaks, there are still a few left that will need a coating to go away. Need to finish the roof so I can get a 2x6 up there and try to coat the thing.

too much to do!

 

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Got tired of making no progress so poured a quart of kilz on the walls. Hides the ugliness and may be will get rid of the utter lack of motivation to do more as well. Starting with very poor conditions and painting will take forever, hopefully before a cold or wet front shows up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You are getting closer. Keep it up. You will be an expert after this is done. 

A note on marker lights, you can always use LED bulb inside regular housing. I sometimes solder the bulbs so they don't come loose

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11 hours ago, Nam said:

You are getting closer. Keep it up. You will be an expert after this is done. 

A note on marker lights, you can always use LED bulb inside regular housing. I sometimes solder the bulbs so they don't come loose

Nam,

 

Thank you for the encouragement. But sugar coating doesnt help, if you dont have dedicated covered space, and all manner of power tools for wood and metal and experience with them,  at least one or two willing helpers, and ample open time then doing this kind of a project is a huge no-no. Thats part of the point in documenting this.

Some of the outside lights had LEDs in them. But it was a mixed bag, some were one wire while others had two tails. And they were/are unreliable, faded and cracked. Choked with years of accumulated dirt. Lights needed to go with the housing for any confidence in the seals and functionality.

I am still not done with roof. Still need to do the final layer of plywood and cable routing before that. Then internal reconstruction. It will be an year long project before I even notice it.

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Finally the rear is ready for reconstruction. Walls repaired, patched. Seams filled. FRP glued to receive vinyl bath wall paper so the shower pan can go back. Peel and stick vinyl on the floor, doesnt want to stay. Now the sink needs to come back. But roof in coach main still ahead of it. Foam is in, finally stuck on. There are reinforcement beams in place to screw into, so the last layer is a matter of sticking wiring back in place (its a pain) and then cutting the 1/4 inch ply to fit. And glue. Tons of glue. And cutting and sanding edges. And then screwing. Then more of the same.

 

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