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I have a friend, has owned lots of boats. Says this worked well to seal windows, cracks etc. Any experience with this?

Capt Tolleys

Liquid that seeks out cracks.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=capt+tolley%27s+creeping+crack+cure&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=181886484606&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12703429848017585389&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032826&hvtargid=kwd-43871804552&ref=pd_sl_64o2c6q9ut_e_p19

 

He says the following: Clean them as much as possible first using rubbing alcohol. Let it dry thoroughly. During the season rub them with some armor-all to cut down the UV damage (drying and brittleness). The alcohol is for just under where the rubber seal meets the glass. Water is opportunistic and always seeks the path of least resistance. The creeping cure will prove ameliorative as well as prophylactic. Camper Penicillin!

 

Iflyfishwhiletracingaleak

Edited by Iflyfish
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The rubber seal on our windows doesn't seal. it's just a keeper. I have used Captain Tolley's for the front windows on my Tiger motorhome. You have to be able to remove the window and lay it flat, very liquid. It has to be a warm day and no moisture until dry. Will seal the glass to the metal frame but isn't the best option. I will have to remove my windows again and reseal after only a couple of years. Plan on putting a thin bead of windshield sealant in there instead

Linda S

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

The rubber seal on our windows doesn't seal. it's just a keeper. I have used Captain Tolley's for the front windows on my Tiger motorhome. You have to be able to remove the window and lay it flat, very liquid. It has to be a warm day and no moisture until dry. Will seal the glass to the metal frame but isn't the best option. I will have to remove my windows again and reseal after only a couple of years. Plan on putting a thin bead of windshield sealant in there instead

Linda S

It looks like I will need to address this in the fall, hence my post on this. I need to learn more about this. Do you have to replace the seals when you go about resealing them? Are new seals available? What sealant do you use? I want to reseal all seams on the motor home this fall. I don't know what has been used in the past, silicone or other product. I know that some products are incompatible. I need to replace the front windows of the coach at some point, currently one is cracked and sealed but I would like to replace them. Any ideas about where to get them would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

Iflyfishwithsealsonmymind

 

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OK do your windows leak in the frame section. If not leave them alone. Resealing the windows usually means resealing them to the camper section. I own 2 Sunraders and neither has ever leaked between the glass and the frame. Those rubber things on the outside of the rear windows is a KEEPER not a seal. Holds the glass firmly to the frame to protect the seal from vibration. If you want to reseal the windows to the camper section you remove them and put new Butyl tape on and reinstall them. I did all mine myself so it can't be that hard. I mean after all I'm a girl. The front wrap around window can be ordered from Advantage RV in Napa and they will ship it but it will cost you. Google them. Another member here recently got a plastics place to make new ones for him and they came out great. Try places that make boat windshields or plexiglass work and see if someone wants to make one for you. Where is your Sunrader leaking anyway. It can only leak from where holes are cut. vents and such. Those you remove and reseal with butyl tape too. No messy caulk required

Linda S

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On ‎6‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 11:22 PM, linda s said:

OK do your windows leak in the frame section. If not leave them alone. Resealing the windows usually means resealing them to the camper section. I own 2 Sunraders and neither has ever leaked between the glass and the frame. Those rubber things on the outside of the rear windows is a KEEPER not a seal. Holds the glass firmly to the frame to protect the seal from vibration. If you want to reseal the windows to the camper section you remove them and put new Butyl tape on and reinstall them. I did all mine myself so it can't be that hard. I mean after all I'm a girl. The front wrap around window can be ordered from Advantage RV in Napa and they will ship it but it will cost you. Google them. Another member here recently got a plastics place to make new ones for him and they came out great. Try places that make boat windshields or plexiglass work and see if someone wants to make one for you. Where is your Sunrader leaking anyway. It can only leak from where holes are cut. vents and such. Those you remove and reseal with butyl tape too. No messy caulk required

Linda S

Thanks LInda, I have no leaks now but know that water is the enemy and I am a proactive/preventative maintenance guy. I will keep this info for the fall when it is time to renew seals. 

Iflyfishwithseals

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I really appreciate your thoughtful and knowledgeable responses. Thank you.

Iflyfishwithmysunraderfriends

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On ‎6‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 5:29 PM, linda s said:

leaks can be really hard to deal with on a conventionally built motorhome but your driving a boat with a few holes in it. Way easier to keep sealed up

Linda S

Nice way to look at it! 

Iflyfishwithoutleaks

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  • 2 years later...
On 6/17/2017 at 2:22 AM, linda s said:

OK do your windows leak in the frame section. If not leave them alone. Resealing the windows usually means resealing them to the camper section. I own 2 Sunraders and neither has ever leaked between the glass and the frame. Those rubber things on the outside of the rear windows is a KEEPER not a seal. Holds the glass firmly to the frame to protect the seal from vibration. If you want to reseal the windows to the camper section you remove them and put new Butyl tape on and reinstall them. I did all mine myself so it can't be that hard. I mean after all I'm a girl. The front wrap around window can be ordered from Advantage RV in Napa and they will ship it but it will cost you. Google them. Another member here recently got a plastics place to make new ones for him and they came out great. Try places that make boat windshields or plexiglass work and see if someone wants to make one for you. Where is your Sunrader leaking anyway. It can only leak from where holes are cut. vents and such. Those you remove and reseal with butyl tape too. No messy caulk required

Linda S

I have been looking for the right type of tape to seal my windows for a couple months now, and I order something and then it doesn't turn out to be what I'm looking for.   Butyl tape I thought I ordered Butyl tape I thought I ordered from a hardware store but it looks like it is just one sided tape  Is the butyl tape I'm looking for double-sided?

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36 minutes ago, cannante said:

I have been looking for the right type of tape to seal my windows for a couple months now, and I order something and then it doesn't turn out to be what I'm looking for.   Butyl tape I thought I ordered Butyl tape I thought I ordered from a hardware store but it looks like it is just one sided tape  Is the butyl tape I'm looking for double-sided?

It's not actually a tape. It's a strip of what looks like plumbers putty that can be completely molded any way you want. Butyl tape is just longer lasting and stickier than plumbers putty. this is butyl tape

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=butyl+tape&qid=1588874995&sr=8-2

Size doesn't matter. remember you can mold any way you want. Fold it over for thicker, ect. Excess will squeeze out as you tighten your window down and you just trim the extra with a plastic putty knife

Linda S

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It's not that hard to do it the right way. Your option is a temporary fix and possibly a not very good looking one. We have seen so many campers gunked up with caulk and silicone and it's an ordeal to remove cleanly.

Linda S

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

It's not that hard to do it the right way. Your option is a temporary fix and possibly a not very good looking one. We have seen so many campers gunked up with caulk and silicone and it's an ordeal to remove cleanly.

Linda S

Can you tell me what size butyl tape to get?  Here’s some photos. There’s an overcab leak somewhere. There’s soft spots and it’s damp behind the wall under the side window. Not sure where the leak is coming from yet. Is it good practice to spend the time and money to reseal the windows and corner seals without knowing?  Not sure where to begin. I’m a bit overwhelmed. This is my first rig and although I feel I have enough common sense I don’t have skill/experience. Worried if I start there I’ll end up doing more projects and I won’t enjoy her this summer!

CD997CD4-CEB4-4C2C-9572-84B1A6D86666.jpeg

F4044C37-3A97-482F-9E2F-BEFF68A38095.jpeg

Edited by WAdolph92
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Size doesn't matter for butyl tape. You can fold it over or stretch it, it's like putty. You have corrugated siding so your going to want to lay it on pretty thick so it seals high and low points. Most common places to leak are corners, windows, clearance lights and roof vents if you have one over the top bunk. If you want to enjoy your camper this summer just seal everything you can and see if it still seems damp after a rain. You might have significant damage underneath but as long as you can halt the leaking for now, you can probably put off major repair until later. 

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At least 3 windows have failed gaskets. Not sure if the water gets anywhere other than in the track due to this.  At least 4 windows have leaks behind the walls. 1. What should I do about the rubber gasket?  Is it simple to replace them 2. I need to pull out the damage on the inside behind the wallpaper in the overcab and behind the sink. The wood is soft. Not sure about the framing. If I reseal the windows by pulling out and using butyl tape, can I do that now and than do the demo later, or will it compromise the work I did to reseal the windows?  Will I be able to remove the inside part of the window while doing the demo, and the outer part will remain intact?  I’d like to enjoy her for the summer but fix the leaks now, without having to redo any work. 

Edited by WAdolph92
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If your frames are rotted the screws will not hold. If that is the case you may try metal roofing screws they are a bit thicker, longer and have gaskets that may help.  Docore is usually 3/4 or 1/2 inch more than wide enough for windows.

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54 minutes ago, Maineah said:

If your frames are rotted the screws will not hold. If that is the case you may try metal roofing screws they are a bit thicker, longer and have gaskets that may help.  Docore is usually 3/4 or 1/2 inch more than wide enough for windows.

So no point in resealing the windows if I have to gut it later?  Am I hearing you?  If that’s the case maybe I just add some more sealant to the outside as a temporary solution. Looking for suggestions on the process, so I don’t spend time and energy now and have to redo later. I would like to enjoy her for the summer, but leaks do need to be sealed. Not sure if the rot is just the layer under the wallpaper, or also the framing.  Thanks for the replies

 

On 5/8/2020 at 4:33 PM, linda s said:

Size doesn't matter for butyl tape. You can fold it over or stretch it, it's like putty. You have corrugated siding so your going to want to lay it on pretty thick so it seals high and low points. Most common places to leak are corners, windows, clearance lights and roof vents if you have one over the top bunk. If you want to enjoy your camper this summer just seal everything you can and see if it still seems damp after a rain. You might have significant damage underneath but as long as you can halt the leaking for now, you can probably put off major repair until later. 

 

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Please post picture of window inside and out and areas you see water. Window screws go from metal the metal, frame to trim ring so I doubt they are rotted. Area around that can still seal unless there are gapping holes and falling apart. Once you see how easy it is to do windows you will realize that it's not a big deal to do them again later when you plan on doing major work. The rubber on the outside is not a seal. It just helps hold the glass seal on the window. The outside of the windows should also have little holes at the bottom. These drain the water and prevent it building up and dripping in from the track. Make sure they are clear. With pics we can better see what your dealing with. Glazing bead, the rubber you say is rotten, is not difficult to replace either. 

This a sample kit so you know what size to buy. They only charge you for shipping

https://www.pellandent.com/Sample-Kit

 

Linda S

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

Please post picture of window inside and out and areas you see water. Window screws go from metal the metal, frame to trim ring so I doubt they are rotted. Area around that can still seal unless there are gapping holes and falling apart. Once you see how easy it is to do windows you will realize that it's not a big deal to do them again later when you plan on doing major work. The rubber on the outside is not a seal. It just helps hold the glass seal on the window. The outside of the windows should also have little holes at the bottom. These drain the water and prevent it building up and dripping in from the track. Make sure they are clear. With pics we can better see what your dealing with. Glazing bead, the rubber you say is rotten, is not difficult to replace either. 

This a sample kit so you know what size to buy. They only charge you for shipping

https://www.pellandent.com/Sample-Kit

 

Linda S

Thanks Linda! You've been very helpful.  Here are some pics.  There is water damage under each of the 3 overcab windows.  It was damp when it rained last week.  The last owner re-caulked just the outside of the windows 5 years ago.  When I gave her a bath a few days ago, there was some water in the tracks inside, especially the window over the couch, but I had hosed her down.  I cleaned the debris out of those holes where the water can drain. This set of photos is the side window above the couch. 

9120A049-BAB3-411A-B980-8C4AF07ABBC0.jpeg

1F491E65-4ADB-4B0A-809F-96D00BC1F528.jpeg

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42 minutes ago, WAdolph92 said:

Center/front overcab

 

 

61AB71D8-7092-472A-9445-662AC9938DFD.jpeg

 

8D53745E-900F-4B27-814F-908459DA3AE0.jpeg

The rubber trim that has pulled away in the corners is NOT the seal. The sealing is behind the glass. Its usually a urethane glue. The butyl tape failed a long time ago and somebody "fixed" it with tube of sillycone. Time to strip it out and do it right

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Yup reseal the windows. While you have them out lay on a flat surface and pour about a half cup  water on the glass. If it leaks out the bottom you have glass that has separated from the frame. That is very unusual. Doesn't happen often. Not easy to fix either because a correct fix means removing the glass and sealing it again to the metal frame. Let a glass shop do it. Cheaper since your going to be bringing the windows only to them and only the ones that leak. I'm betting a regular resealing of the windows fixes your problems though. Walls around will feel more solid too after they have a chance to dry out.

Linda S

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25 minutes ago, WME said:

The rubber trim that has pulled away in the corners is NOT the seal. The sealing is behind the glass. Its usually a urethane glue. The butyl tape failed a long time ago and somebody "fixed" it with tube of sillycone. Time to strip it out and do it right

I understand that’s not the seal, but will

it leak behind the wall if I don’t redo those rubber gaskets too. Water does get inside onto the tracks. What I don’t understand is whether that water can be harmful or if it’s limited to resting on top of the interior track. Thanks for responding. I’m learning. Actually, think Linda May have answered that. 
 🤪

Edited by WAdolph92
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2 minutes ago, linda s said:

Yup reseal the windows. While you have them out lay on a flat surface and pour about a half cup  water on the glass. If it leaks out the bottom you have glass that has separated from the frame. That is very unusual. Doesn't happen often. Not easy to fix either because a correct fix means removing the glass and sealing it again to the metal frame. Let a glass shop do it. Cheaper since your going to be bringing the windows only to them and only the ones that leak. I'm betting a regular resealing of the windows fixes your problems though. Walls around will feel more solid too after they have a chance to dry out.

Linda S

if I decide to demo out the inside of the overcab later, will I need to reseal the windows again?  Or can I somehow remove the inside of the window and work around it?  I’m trying to decide if I should just do it all at once or in stages. 

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Yeah probably. You don't want the window coming loose and falling down. I don't see major damage though. Just a trickle here and there. Does your overhead droop in the middle when you look at it from the outside? Also I thought you wanted to have some time to enjoy it this summer. Start tearing crap out and you will be in quarantine all summer trying to get it back together. 

Linda S

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Linda"s got the right idea. Remove the window and frame carefully, remove the trim and add water. Put the window on a piece of news paper so any water will show up instantly.

Some of the "leaks" on the inside the windows is actually condensation from the occupants at night.

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 I thought I was emailed when I got responses I was just checking to see and I'm glad I did because I got your excellent reply!   So So yeah there is gradual dripping coming from I think most of the windows so I have to reseal all of them  I have the butyl tape in the sealant and taking the windows out is easy, hopefully my last question before I get this done  Dot-dot. Is the plastic putty knife the same tool described in someone else's post that I've been looking for for a few days and haven't found where he talks about sharpening the blade angle and dulling the tip of the blade after you're finished?  I hope that's not too rambly!

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The guy that suggested the plastic putty knife was me. I've never seen a hardware store that didn't have them but any putty knife will do or dozens of other things you've got laying around. Doing it from a straight vertical position is so you don't undercut the window frame .

Linda S

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On 5/7/2020 at 2:13 PM, linda s said:

 

 

1 minute ago, linda s said:

The guy that suggested the plastic putty knife was me. I've never seen a hardware store that didn't have them but any putty knife will do or dozens of other things you've got laying around. Doing it from a straight vertical position is so you don't undercut the window frame .

Linda S

 I beg your pardon   So then So then that is what you do with the plastic putty knife is you dull the very tip while sharpening the angle? Thank you so much for all of the help! I will start to take pictures of this process I put in a new floor myself and those pictures will be visible as well

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No your not dulling anything. Your cutting off a soft putty so nothing harder is needed and your trying to make a nice clean edge. When you tighten your window back down the butyl tape will ooze out around the edge. Excess needs to come off. Watch some YouTube videos so you know what I'm talking about

Linda S

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