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  1. kayakthecoast

    Olympic peninsula

    © Jason Goldstein

  2. Greyland beach WA. A public road. Stop, surf, picnic and bonfire
  3. With some help from other forum members I figured out my 21ft 1985 Sunrader still has the faulty rear axle. So my question to you all is what kind of rear axles will work with this model? I found a 1989 rear axle, 4x2, double wheel, 1 ton from an old Toyota delivery truck, will this work or is it too wide? If its not going to work, what should I be looking for? Thanks for your help!
  4. Hey all, hoping for some advice from some Sunrader owners. I've recently stumbled across an 84 Nissan Sunrader, with a practically new 22z motor. Still has a 3 year warranty and less than 100 miles on it. Owner is moving out of the country soon and looking to dump it So questions are as followed; 1. Can anyone see any major issues from the pics? I can say that there is a depression in the roof and will need some patching (anything else?) window gaskets are a must (no surprise it's a sunrader) rust on the drivers side door (see pic). It is missing a decent amount of screws at the aluminum strip that joins the 2 pieces of fiberglass of the sunrader body (easy fix??) All appliances work, floor didn't seem to sag, it ran like a top in the 5 minutes I test drove it. What else should I be looking for? Just looking to see what the crew is thinking this rig is worth. I'm salivating at the thought of purchasing it, but like most people, don't want to get in over my head, but also don't mind spending the cash to get an experienced RV converter, restorer to help me out with the process. Looking to make an educated decision largely based on the experience of the members here such as FJ40, Linda S., jdemaris, and any others.
  5. Hello All, Forgive me if I didn't search deep enough into the forums to undercover an existing thread on this (link please). But I've been looking at some late 80s Sunraders and being able to go off-road is a must. My first thought is to drop the Sunrader on the drive train of a 4Runner (axles, tranny, transfer case) provision drive shafts etc... What I am not considering with this in mind? Are their any other thoughts on accomplishing this? Also, I'm guessing I would need about $12k for the donar and labor. I am pretty handy, but I'd elect to leave all of actual work to a true professional. Thanks in advance for any advice or guidance. This could be a very real project in the near future.
  6. I just recently purchased my 86' Nissan Sunrader 18' and had a little surprise when I started digging around. The floor feels solid and all appliances worked so I didn't really think to check when I got it, but after opening up the seats in back, noticed that there is a patch of wood around the water heater that has started to decay. A lot of the plumbing has been redone, so I'd imagine there was a problem that was fixed, but maybe to late. First, I am going to remove the water heater because I have plans of installing a tankless and so I can access the whole area. Then I am going to use a wood rot repair epoxy called PC Rot Terminator. It is supposed to be a structural wood repair curing harder than wood. Then I am going to lay new plywood down over that area, and over the main floor. A couple of questions for people who have laid down play wood to stiffen up the floor of a Sunrader: Did you screw it down or glue it down or both? Did you us any floor dampener like the foam under hardwood floors? Did you do it all in one piece? I see being able to easily do it in three pieces and only having to take off a couple cabinet doors. Thanks I'll include pictures of the rot and fix later.
  7. Hello, Im new to the forum and new to Sunrader ownership. I figured I would introduce you to my new Sunrader along with some of my current upgrades, fixes and surprises. I picked up a Nissan Sunrader 18' with the 3.0 V6. 74,600 miles with a fresh timing belt, waterpump, cam seals, and other tune up items. All in all it is very clean, but after digging into it found where it is starting to show its age. My goal is to make it a mountain machine, and alot of my mountain time is in the snow. So I need to make this rig snow ready and be able to pack friends and gear safely up to the mountain. I have a pretty big todo list, right off the bat. Reseal all windows with butyl tape and polyurethane sealant. (There were small leaks in two obvious places) New Fantastic Fan with weather hood in main coach and new vent cover in bathroom both resealed with butyl and poly. Remove rack and vents then refasten with new sealant in screw holes and around brackets New LED clearance lights and New Bargman triple LED tail lights with custom plexi frame from TAP plastics. Upgrade suspension and snow tires And then there is the floor....... So, when checking it out, the floor seemed pretty solid, and I crawled under it to see if there was any rust or decay. But what I didnt do, is take apart the back seats and look inside. After getting it home and starting to dig around I found that the driver side was good and solid, but the passenger side had pretty significant water damage and wood rot under the water heater (Surprise)!. All of the plumbing and fittings had been redone with new fittings but it looks like the damage has been done. Everywhere else on the rig is so solid, it really was a surprise. Aside from a total rebuild (which I would love to do sometime down the road, in the summertime) I'm thinking that my best option is to use PC ROT Terminator. It is a structural epoxy for decaying wood. It supposedly absorbs into all of the cracks and crevices of the rotted wood and then cures stronger than wood. I think I'm going to turn the floor repair into a separate thread, if there isn't one already. Anyway, lots to talk about but I'll try to split up topics and find relating threads previously created. Thanks for reading about my new micro home. I am going back and forth with feeling okay about how much money I spent on it after finding out about the wood rot. What do you experts think after what I've told you? I paid $8700 and that was after a pretty solid haggle.
  8. I have a 1988 21 foot Sunrader that I would like to put Yakima Racks on. I figured the best way would be to place these "wide body" brackets http://www.backcountryracks.com/yakima-wide-body-bracket-8001.html at the roofline and then attach a Yakima 1A tower system (these are the old-school gutter mounted original racks Yakima first started with). The Sunrader has these Steel Beams that run along the edge of the roof that I would have to drill into in order to secure the brackets. Are there self tapping bolts that I could drill into these steel beams that would secure the brackets?
  9. Hi guys! I'm new to the site as a member but have been using it as a resource for a while now. I just bought a 1991 sunrader and the owner before me had replaced the two front seats with a set from a toyota camery. They sit way to high and can't recline to a comfortable position. I have to arch my back and neck to see out the windshield. He was shorter than me and it didn't bother him but I can't stand them and I'm only 5'10". I have driven other toy homes and found the stock seats to be pretty comfy. So my question is, can I pull seats out of any 1991 toyota truck and put them in? Will it then sit at the hight it was originally suppose to be? Also, is there a year range of toyota trucks who's seats will fit in my sunrader as the originional ones did? Thanks in advance!
  10. Not sure what it's called but I'm thinking of removing the metal bumper strip that is over the seam where the two fiberglass shells (top and bottom) meet up. Doing some painting of some fiberglass repairs and thought it might be nice to get rid of the metal and just sand the fiberglass seam a little and paint. Does anyone know if the metal bumper strip actually does anything structural as far as holding together the two halves? It looks to me like it was put on to hold the fiberglass shells in place and then the seam was actually fiberglassed over from the inside meaning that the fiberglass is the structural support and the metal trim is just cosmetic trim over the seam. Thoughts...?
  11. I know there aren't many 4x4s left on the road and I'm curious if my '84 4cyl (still with original faux dualie design) is the mileage "Grandma". Anyone have one with more miles on it?
  12. Hello & thanks for looking at my post. I have a 1989 Toyota Sunrader & am hoping to find links for info re: fresh, grey & black water tank maintenance. I've seen some info out there, but without pics it's hard to know how & if it applies to my Sunny. I only see/know of 2 drain outlets, one under my rear bumper which I assume is the grey water tank, and one on the driver side under my bathroom which I'm assuming is the black water tank. When it comes time for "winterizing" I am unclear how to make sure all of the lines are completely void of any remaining water. Also, I'm not even sure how to fill my fresh water tank - I thought a water hose would just screw onto the potable water inlet but it doesn't look like it will attach properly ... am I supposed to use a funnel? Or do I buy a water pressure regulator ($8 at Walmart) as I saw in another post & does that attach to the opening? And I'm unclear what the opening to the left of it is with a wire mesh cover over it, which I can't get off -- is it a vent? It will turn in both directions but it doesn't unscrew. How do/should I clean it? Also, is it true that white vinegar (1/4 cup per 5 gallons?) is an equally effective way to sanitize your FW system? If so I think I'd prefer that over the bleach method, given it would probably have less of a residual effect after flushing out. I've included pics of my fresh water inlet (there's a little tiny hole above it & what looks like maybe a rubber plug that can fit inside the tiny hole,attached to the cap cover -- what's that for?), the 2 drains I can see, my water tank/system inside under passenger back bench, the water heater (how do I drain that?), & water heater switch. As far as the water heater, that operates on propane only correct? And is turned on/off by the electric switch under the kitchen sink -- it's electric-ignited via 12V auxillary battery, not pilot light yes? Ok that was a lot of rambling & not well-organized, my apologies. I appreciate all who have responded to my previous questions and I thank you for your patience. This is all totally new to me. Thanks, Todd
  13. Hi ALL! First I'd like to say THANK YOU to all of the forum members who have contributed to this awesome site, creating a wealth of knowledge, experience, and information for us Toyota Motor Home owners. I'm a new member - both here and to the Toyota Motorhome owner scene. I purchased my first Toyhome, a 1983 Toyota Sunrader (18ft w/ "death axle"....we'll get to that later), after MUCH research on these great, fuel efficient, reliable RVs. The Sunrader (who is as of yet unnamed) we found had only has 35k original miles and the interior was completely original and in great shape (considering the vintage) with only a small amount of water damage from a leaking window. All appliances still in working order without water/gas leaks. Only surface rust on the undercarriage from sitting over unpaved/ungraveled parking for years, AND the "death axle" (however thanks to this site I was aware of this going into the deal and was able to bargain accordingly). SO all-in-all we were very happy with our new Toyhome! Then the search began for the 1-ton full-floating 6 lug rear end....car-parts.com, partshotlines.com, Ebay motors, cold calling local (and less-than-local) salvage yards one-by-one, and craigslist. Craigslist. AND MORE CRAIGSLIST!!!....until......Magic. Fate. Prayer. Planets in alignment. The ending of the Myan Calendar. Whatever the case may have been, a late-night search on craigslist with the paltry term: Sunrader (one of hundreds of keyword searches I had been doing religiously for a month) returned a 1984 21ft Toyota Sunrader in water damage decay 35 miles from our home selling "camper only, chassis is NOT for sale" HOW COULD THIS BE!!! SO CLOSE, YET SO FAR AWAY. I decided I'd try, I HAD TO! After not-so-negative email exchanges with the seller, I arranged to go and see this magnificent pile of scrap RV. There it was in all its glory, taunting me with its perfection...THE 1-ton full-floating 6 lug rear end....the words "Again, Chassis is NOT for sale" spinning through my mind. I picked my jaw up from the ground and began fuddling about the camper looking for any spare bits I might find useful while I explained my scenario to the fine gentleman who was selling her off piece by piece.......I bought a fan motor for the vent, eyed the propane tanks, looked at little fixtures here and there....THEN the clouds parted and a voice sang out to me "I'll tell you what...." My heart leapt, my knees buckled. "Yes, yes, that sounds good. I'll talk to you tomorrow!" IT. WAS. MINE!!!! And delivered to boot! EVERYTHING, axle, springs, shackles, he gave me the ENTIRE frame section! Only shy one upper shock mount (***any help here is appreciated**). Once it was sitting in my garage, I realized that EVERYTHING is going to fit...just bolt right up!!! The driveshaft holes are the same, the spring mounts are the same, the torsion bar!!!!!!!!! The Toyhome gods have smiled upon me....I must repay this debt! Sooooo, I will try to document in this thread my axle upgrade as best I can, pictures and all, for those that find themselves in similar circumstances. Thanks again for everyone's help & contribution (past, present, and future), Patrick Here she sat with her "death axle" waiting... And here is her new pair of shoes...
  14. Hello, I have had my eye on the Sunrader since my friends owned one a few years ago. I have saved up some cash and am now very actively looking to buy one. I have done a bit of research on some issues with these RV's such as the real axle recall. My very first car was a 1989 Toyota pickup, so I am familiar with the chassis and how to maintain it. I am very anxious to buy a Sunrader, and I know ALOT of other people are looking to buy these also, so I fear I may be too excited when I find one i'm interested in and potentially costly maintenance issues may be missed if I don't look closely. I don't want to spend very much more than the sell price to get her ready to ride. I'm pretty car savvy, so I can tell old rotting tires and potential rust spots from something in new or good condition. So my question is: What other issues should I be keeping in mind and looking at closely as I do my shopping? Also: Are there any other Toyota models that have fiberglass bodies or aren't so suseptable to leaks? As much as I love the Sunrader, I am willing to look at other types since I would really like a rear kitchen and I haven't seen many Sunraders with rear kitchens. Thanks for looking and for your help!
  15. With new tires, a brake job and a fixed exhaust manifold leak, our 18' Sunrader is ready. We'll be heading out around 6 am tomorrow, heading for the southern Oregon coast. Living close to Crater Lake, we'll take the south entrance and follow the west side, then down to Roseburg and on to the coast. We used to live near Port Orford and will be visiting our son and many friends there, along with some beach walks. Lots of up and down on this trip, we'll be leaving from 4160' elevation, around 6000' at Crater Lake, then down to sea level. It should be a fun 5 day trip! Maybe we'll see some of you along the way! Eve and Stephen Thompson
  16. Has anyone built a storage box behind the back of your motorhome like Macs 4x4 Sunrader here? At first I thought the box was resting on an extension of the rear bumper but after looking at the large photos I can see that isn't the case. I'm wondering how he attached the box to the Sunrader? Does anyone know how I can contact Mac? Thanks!
  17. Hey guys, my name is Tim and I've been lurking on here for a while and figured it was time to join since I will be looking at a '85 Sunrader tomorrow. It's a 21" 2wd with 139k+ miles, EFI, a manual 4 spd and a 6 lug floating rear end. I was a Lexus and toyota master tech for 13 yrs so the mechanical issues I might run into don't bother me, but this is potentially my first RV and I don't know much about how things are supposed to operate on them. I can handle some external cosmetic issues but don't want to buy someone else's problem child. Since this is an older RV, I'm sure it's in need of some modern renovations and plan to do some reprinting/re-upholstering of the interior. I grew up camping with my parents in their RV's but I always slept in a tent and tried to remain outside most of the time. Now I'm married with a baby and want to start taking my family camping since some of my best childhood memories were camping, but my wife insists we must have something with a bathroom (ugh....ok honey). This is why my search for a cheap reliable RV has started. I am immediately drawn to toyotas because of my mechanical background and my parts connections within the toyota community. After reading around on the forum, I realized I don't want something that has had issues with water leaks so the sunrader platform seams to be the best option for me. I talked to the owner's son who is handling the sale and he said the cab needs to be repainted (because of surface rust in scratches that he spray painted), one of the front windows needs to be replaced because the corner is broken off and he just revealed one of the roof vents was leaking in the last rain and he re-sealed it. He says everything works, but doesn't know how to run anything other than the truck engine. How do I run the propane fridge? How do I make sure the tanks hold water and don't leak? If the broken window is one of the wrap around ones, how much should I plan on paying a plastic place to make me a new one? The only thing making me want to look at this RV is the EFI and a manual trans. Is $4000 too much to pay for this RV with the issues I already know about? Is there any other issues I should be looking for?
  18. My Sunraders cabover area has been getting damp. I very carefully caulked those windows last fall but still had some damp coming in over the winter. Not a major leak so I left it on my to do list for this summer to try resealing them again. Today I cut the plywood on the overcab sidewall further back so it was completely clear of the wrap around windows. Surprise it was not the windows that were leaking. Very pleasant surprise actually because it won't be difficult to fix the source of the leak. What happened is the original installers when they put on the exterior aluminum trim that wraps around hiding the body join had run the several of the screws all the through the fiberglass. It only happened on the side of the coach just under where those windows wrap around. That error happened on both sides of my rig. That trim channel does fill up with water to a height where it can run in along the mounting screw threads. Or water could have been running behind the channel, maybe even both things were going on. Not a major leak but enough to cause some mold and decaying materials over the years. If I had not removed the interior wood paneling under that area I would have been convinced that I would absolutely need to replace those windows and their gaskets. Or I would have opted to fill in the window area with fiberglass. But I will water test those windows with a hose before I start putting new interior finishes in. If the windows do leak then that should easily show up with nothing covering up the walls around the windows. But this particular issue can be solved with a little bit of epoxy putty to fill in the holes. As I am going to be doing some fiberglass work this month I will go ahead and build up that area below the windows (in the interior) with several extra layers of fiberglass tape and resin. It won't affect any of the interior finishes to make it thicker in that area. I don't want any more screws breaking through that skin. I am going to pull the sliding window in the overcab area out on the passeger side and remove that wall paneling for a visual inspection. I suspect there is a another screw coming through in that area as well.
  19. After moving over to a place by Agency Lake (near Chiloquin OR), we finally made it up to Crater Lake! What a beautiful drive! We entered from the south and drove counter-clockwise around the rim drive. This put us on the east side first, so the sun was shining on the far side, yes, we were thinking photography! The rim drive is mostly around 7000' elevation and we wondered how our 18' Sunrader with 22R would do. No problems were encountered and our last tune-up was done at sea level. The road is paved, 2 lane, a bit narrow and there are no guard rails. There are many places with no shoulder and steep drops for hundreds of feet, with many sharp turns. So, in spite of the awesome scenery, the driver has to watch the road! At one point on the trip, Cloud Cap Overlook, the side road climbs to 7960' elevation, the highest point on a road in the park. Here, there were many twisted and ancient white pines, so we did quite a bit of hiking around. We took about 5 or 6 hours to make the loop and will have to go back for a longer trip, possibly camping up there for a few days. Since we're only about 35 miles from the entrance, we can also just come home at night, but I'd like to do sunrise/sunset photos!
  20. I am the new owner of a 1983 Toyota Sunrader. I have owned other RV's but this is my first Toyota motorhome. Can anyone point me to an owners manual or other documentation to get me started in restoration? Thanks!
  21. 45 days, 8000mi. Just put a trip report type update thing here: http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5382&page=5#entry49599 Trip pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrickandlindsey Had a blast in on our first real voyage in our toyhome, loved every minute of it!
  22. I need to remove the windows from my 18' Sunrader and reseal the openings and while they are out I'd like to take the frames apart and clean them up so they look like new. I'd like to find some super-duper paint that goes over aluminum that is proven to NOT turn into a paint-peeling mess down the road after the suns been cooking them. Has anyone done that? Also, in each window there is square plastic tab that needs to be replaced. Can I buy replacements for those tabs? Thanks
  23. If you were starting over with the gutted interior of a 1982 Sunrader 18' what would you do with it? What would you put in it? What would your layout be like? (Existing layout is house door forward with rear dinette) What materials would you use to make everything? And how would you do everything so it is AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE? Here are my parameters... -Full time living and traveling for one human. -BATHROOM: I'm going to build a simple cheap "compost" toilet and I'll have a small sink. The entire bathroom must be waterproof so I can take showers and probably in the same location (behind the drivers seat) since the tank is there. I will install a small opening window with screen to air out the bathroom. -HOT WATER: I'm considering one of these two options: Install an instant on-demand propane hot water heater...or use a garden sprayer with a metal tank and a modified shower head that I can place directly on the stove top to heat the water and paint it with Rustoleum High Heat paint so I can heat it in the sun on hot days. I'll have a spot on the corner wall of the bathroom I can mount the garden sprayer for showering. -COOKING: Counter space to prepare stuff, Storage for eating/cooking utensils, large sink with manual foot pump, BIG fridge (7 cubic ft), 2 burner stove (probably a Coleman camp stove if I can figure out how to make cookies and pizza on a stove top). Drinking water will be in 1 gallon jugs. -WORKING: I need desk space to work and space for my 17" Macbook Pro with a 25" external monitor. -SLEEPING: I'll probably use the overhead for sleeping with a twin and put some light storage forward of that in plastic bins. -HEATING: I'll use one of those little portable propane heaters. (I think its called "Mr Buddy" or "Mr Heater") -BOONDOCKING: I will be stealth city camping as needed but plan on boondocking for extended periods of time so energy efficiency is key and preferably renewable. -FLOORING: If I can make the sub-floor smooth enough I'll probably install vinyl. If not, then probably laminate flooring. -WALLS & CEILING: Thin plywood panels painted with semi-gloss white that can be easily removed to access stuff behind (although I plan on having as little of the hard-to-access stuff as possible!). -INSULATION: Probably some closed-cell foam stuff from Home Depot. -CEILING FAN: Maybe a Fantastic Fan or equivalent?? -LIGHTING: LED and probably individually self-contained with their own little batteries so I don't have to run wires. -INTERNET: I'll use my cellphone as a hot spot when I can and install a multi-directional WIFI signal booster to sponge off of open networks. -MOVIES: I'll get one of those external hard drives with the built in wireless network and load it with a terrabyte of movies so I can watch movies with my iPad. -TV: I might have a UHF antenna to pick up local stations and watch that stuff on my computers external monitor. -FRONT CAB: I want to change out my front seats for something more comfortable that I can buy used on Craigslist. Does anyone know what other seats fit an 82 Toyota with minimal modifications required? -EXTERIOR: I'll probably use reflectors instead of the existing DC wired clearance lights. On the top I'll probably build a low profile aerodynamic lockable box to store surfboards in in with solar panels mounted on top of it. I'm going to spray the entire vehicle with almond Rustoleum paint (i.e. "The $50 paint job"). I've done countless camping trips all over and surf safari's into deep baja so I know how to poop in a hole and live animal style, but for full-time living thats not how I choose to live. So my plan is to have the creature comforts required for full-time living but make their systems as simple and as energy efficient as possible. Anywhooo, a lot of you have used your Toyota motorhomes a lot and have learned a few things along the way so I will greatly appreciate any of your ideas and input. Seriously - anything! :-) Thank you. Steve
  24. Hi, This is my first time on this forum I'm on my way to look at a 1985 Sunrader 21ft 4 cylinder 4 speed with 75000 miles for $6000. From what I've read and heard it sounds like a good deal. It has the 1ton rear axle and many new parts. The only flaws so far is it needs a new frig which i read will cost $1100, no a/c and some sort of crack that does not leak. I will take any advice on what to look for, what to ask, etc I really want to buy this sunrader and I'm trying to cover all my bases beforehand. thank you in head of time michael
  25. Hey all, We're preparing for our first time out in our new-to-us 1986 Sunrader and I am a little overwhelmed by all the info on the internet with regard to our electrical capabilities. Here's what we're working with: -2 batteries under the hood - one each for the cab and the coach -30 Amp cord for plugging in at campsites -One 12V DC plug in the dash and one in the coach -One AC wall outlet in the coach I purchased a 30 Amp extension cord and a 30A-120V adapter, as well as a little 75W inverter for the dash, which has one AC and two USB outlets. We will be doing a combination of camping at campsites, boondocking in national parks and forests and on BLM land, and boondocking in urban areas, usually in a friend's driveway or the street in front of the house. The longest we plan to stay in one spot is two nights. I know that the lights, fridge (3-way) and furnace work while boondocked, but I'm wondering what our other capacities may be, while boondocked, rolling down the road, and plugged in. Here are my most pressing questions: 1) Will the wall outlet in the coach work while rolling down the road? (I traveled with my sister and brother in law in their 38-footer and she was able to run a crock pot while we drove - seems like a great idea, but not sure if our rig is capable). 2) Will the wall outlet in the coach work while boondocked? If so, well enough to power a toaster or toaster oven (for some reason, toast feels very important and our oven doesn't have a broiler)? What about a small fan? And if it will power a fan, will it power it overnight? Is it ok to run a short extension cord within the coach from the wall outlet? 3) From what I can gather, we should only run the air conditioner in the coach when plugged in via the 30A at a campground. I assume since they sell (and we bought) the 30A-120V adapter that it is ok to plug-in to house power, but is it ok to do it via a heavy duty 120V extension cord? Can I run the air conditioner off that? Any other dos and don'ts when doing this? 4) From the reviews, I can gather that charging iPhones and iPods with the 75W dash inverter is ok, but there's no definite answer about a laptop. Any ideas? It would be for charging the laptop only, not actively using it. I'm going to give her a dry run in the driveway this weekend, sanitizing the water tanks, checking the oven to see how much the temp is off, seeing how good of a shower we can take, etc. I would really appreciate any feedback y'all might have so I don't go plugging things in willy nilly, blowing fuses, and causing unnecessary damage. Thanks so much for your time and I'm really excited to have such an amazing resource at our disposal. Thanks moderators and everyone who participates in the group. Eryn
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