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Good morning all! It feels SO GOOD to start a new topic / query for help! And my question is: what should the process look like for filling my OLD, horizontally orientated propane tanks? I stopped by a place in town and was told legally they could not take the tanks out for me, that I had to do that myself, that I’d have to pay to have the tanks DMV certified ($10 per tank), and some other things. My arm sprain is still not fully healed so I couldn’t get the tanks out by myself so I left, hoping to return with a better understanding of propane and perhaps a friend to help hoist the monsters in and out of the RV... Do you guys have advice on dealing with / certifying / filling older tanks? ~~~~~ And here’s an update on the Sunrader: I made a new friend in my town who is a retired mechanic, and he recently spent 5 hrs going over the Sunrader top to bottom. I now have a better idea of what lies ahead in the repair process... • Propane tanks are fine, sending propane to all appliances!! • Oven needs work (pilot comes on but won’t ignite the oven flames), stove top range needs nothing and fires up just fine, everytime! (Already properly christened it; omlettes, couscous, fried chicken... can not WAIT for the oven to be fully functional so I can bake some pies! Haha.) • Furnace, water heater and water pump all seem to work. (I have used the furnace to heat the RV. Loud / noisy beyond belief but puts out HOT air). • Fresh water tank I thought was leaking, but the seller was incorrect and the tank is fine but the pipes are cracked in multiple places and leaking. Looks like all the plumbing will need to be replaced (most pipes are cracked). • Electrical - lots of work needed... he tested the voltage of my break lights and more and it seems things need re-wiring / are not putting out the maximum voltage. Many of the running lights are out, and smaller exterior lights. Several outlets inside are not wkng. He suggested re-wiring some things and then using LED light fixtures. (Solar panels / power is for sure a goal farther down the road I shld mention). • Fridge: in theory does NOT work (according to the seller). We tried it off the propane and it seemed to start up, but nothing got cold after several hrs. I’ve read several topics in this forum and will try again, next time on level ground! I had visions of totally gutting the Sunrader and building out my perfect dream home on wheels. Nearly breaking my arm in January put those plans on hold. BUT I am actually grateful for the delay! Having spent months driving around town and taking short road trips to camp/work, I realize the RV is pretty special AS IS, and does not need me to gut her and build out new. (Although I really want to jettison the black water tank and get a composting toilet!!). She just needs minor repairs and a MAJOR infusion of interior decoration (which as an artist, I can handle). The sprained arm prevented me from starting something I perhaps couldn’t finish, but most certainly should not have done because I would have obliterated her charm (which is subtle and hard to see through the outdated and rough condition). But time spent with her on the road has illuminated her dusty charm and I have no more intentions of gutting her. This project will now be more of a restoration than a renovation. I did have some leaks back in the March rains and am worried about what lies between the fiberglass and the particle board “ceiling”, and the fiberglass shell and the interior carpeted “walls”. But I still think - even if I find mold/work needed from the rains - a total gut and reno is not the way. Ok! That’s all I know / have learned thus far about “Lil Putt” (this week is our 3 month anniversary!!???). More about her needs will be revealed in time, I’m sure. Any help with these propane tank questions would be appreciated. Thanks!!

I had a weekday outing recently and a sing-along by the campfire with the uke, did a camping rendition of a Clapton classic. The family said I have a couple of missing screws up there... If you want to camp out, you've gotta take some out, propane If you want to get warm, get warm and dry out, propane The blue flame The blue flame The blue flame Propane If you got that food, you want to keep it good, propane When the stove is on, you'll be cooking on propane The blue flame The blue flame The blue flame Propane

What's up guys - I turned on my propane tank for the first time and noticed a cracked cap on the right side of the handle that turns on the propane. It pretty much disintegrated as soon as I touched it. I turned on the propane and it seemed like propane was spewing slowly but surely out of this spout that the cap once covered. I have never dealt with propane so I am not sure if it just needs another cap or something else is missing. Any help is appreciated..I am moving into this rig on the 1st so I am cutting it close. Thanks in advance.

Hey all, couldn't find anything in the forum. Hoping someone knows how I would go about replacing the brass fitting for the propane tank. The past 30 years of use have worn it down to the point of (yes I know not good, but it's at last resort stage) using vise grips. The nut is getting worn to nothing and is a ticking clock to trouble at this point.

So a status update of sorts on our "rebuilt" propane tank: The Tank ran exceptionally well this summer as I used my sunrader quite a bit differently than most years. I am relocating to a new position in a new town so I have been using the RV as home base temporary living while i hunted for a new home. I put it in an rv park for the low cost of $450 for the month all included. Because I had a security deposit on electric, i used propane to run the fridge to ensure i got my electric back. I also used the stove to cook but never ran the heater. The tank lasted exactly 1 month running the fridge on setting 5 but had also run us an additional week on Dauphin Island with similar usages. So basically it would appear that the Horizontal Propane tank which holds 8.5 Gallons in my particular case (just filled this AM) Will run Fridge and basic stovetop cooking and I ran the hot water burner twice for 6 weeks. (I also used propane for few days to pre-cool fridge, and house a friend over 4th weekend) I figured these fun facts would help those that have horizontal permanent mount ACME tanks plan for larger trips. Again basically you can expect 6 weeks of use, assuming no furnace is used. If the furnace is used that would be a different study of data points. As to the new motor, She hit 500 miles on the odo today so I changed out the oil which was still clear as water. I refilled with pure Dyno valvoline 5w-30 and zink add in. there was absolutely no oil consumption in the 500. I routinely pass people now while driving and can easily cruise at 75 - with the new 22re performance motor. So far so good!

I have a few easy questions re. propane piping and use. 1. The propane pipe (just the one) coming out of the tank seems to go under the sink and when it gets there it has three outlets for a water heater, furnace, and oven/stove. Nothing going to the fridge. How does the fridge get its propane in a Toyota Conquest with a rear bath, rear entry. Fridge vent is above passenger side dual wheels. There is 12V and 120V connections there. Anybody have handy pictures, diagrams of how propane should flow to appliances? Does the fridge get its propane inside the cab somehow or from the same pipe as other appliances or does it get a separate line from the tank since its on the passenger side where as the rest are on the driver side of the vehicle? 2. What does California require in terms of inspection, certification, decals for filling/refilling? 3. I am thinking of adding a fill at home adapter to the system. Right now its just the regulator and then one output from it, I can stick it there. Any reason not to? Here is a picture of the rusted setup. thanks upfront.

This antique propane tank leaks where the clear window (pressure gauge transducer is) as indicated by my leak detector. It empties the tank in about a month. Any idea as how to mitigate this issue? I am not even sure to how remove the tank either since it's under the closet inside (lift up from inside?) This is on 1990 Itasca Spirit.

Heading west on Rt 66 through Oklahoma and are having trouble with the fridge (Norcold: original, I'd guess), which doesn't seem to be cooling. I ran it for a full night on 120v before we left but am not sure it was working; outdoor temp has been near freezing or below all day. This evening, the fridge just wasn't feeling very cold so I switched over to propane; seemed to ignite easily and kept a steady light on the front. Keeping my fingers crossed that it will cool down over night, or we'll have to ditch a bunch of food...dang it. The Norcold has worked well in the past, but we've never had to use it in very cold weather (weeks of warmth/sun here, right up until just before our vacation week, geez!). Appreciate any suggestions, folks! (Btw, no sign or smell of ammonia in or around fridge.) Thank you

I have a 1990 Warrior with a Norcold fridge. I cleaned out the whole burner area and replaced the burner and thereby the gas orifice. I don't get anything but a small flame, blue, and it doesn't cool the fridge. It cools very well electrically so I know it's not a coolant problem. Gas pressure is around 7 at the gauge. Is that high enough and if not how can I increase it? If the problem is something else any ideas on diagnosing it? I rapped on the flue and blew the whole area out with air but no help. I'm sure that if I had a good enough flame I'd have the cooling I need when not onshore. Any help much appreciated!

Good Evening, I bought a 1985 Toyota dolphin and I am terrified of propane and get extreme anxiety being around it. I do not want to run it at all. I bought a suburban 6 gal h20 heater and seen a hybrid get that I bought as well so when it arrives and gets installed I can run it through using electricity. my question is can I run it off the battery only? I am also shopping around for a generator so when I'm parked outside a campground I can power it as well as my tv and laptop, microwave. My fridge also can run on battery and, I do not plan on using the stove at all I have a two burner hot plate for cooking. what wattage is necessary to run these items? The converter box that came with it is small really old and small .what is the best current one to use for a tv, dvd, phone charge?.

Recently we took a trip. Before the trip we filled the propane bottle. We turned the propane on to light the water heater. My wife smelled propane in the coach. We turned the propane off (at the tank). Then, for several days, I turned the propane on only for the time it took to heat the hot water tank, then shut it back off. After returning home, I realized that I was only opening the tank valve a full turn or two. The valve must be fully opened against it's backseat in order to not have propane odors. Fully open - no odors. Fully shut - no odors. Parially open - yes odor. I'm just writting this down in case it helps someone else.

Over the past 3 months (since the axle swap) we've been prepping our little Sunrader for her maiden voyage....wanted to share our updates (mostly genaric) if only to provide ideas for others Sandblasted, repainted all wheels and hot water heater cover(hi-temp Rustoleum inside). All new Hankook RA08 (including the 5-lug spare) and a new gravity-fed water inlet (white circular - Camping World Item# 60332)...oh and front marker light assys. (Oreillyauto.com - Part # : 18-1153-50 & 18-1153-90 | Line: TYC) Our Sunrader had a Engine Bay-mounted size 24 house battery, so I rerouted it to the rear using 4ga battery cable and increased it to a size 29. Our original 20# Propane tank had been incorrectly modified with an OPD valve, so it was removed and replaced with an 11# (True Value item # 839316) vertical tank. I also added a 12ft hose extension so that the hose can be connected to an external 20# vertical BBQ style tank when stopped any extended length. Here you can see the coiled hose, remounted regulator, and in-line propane tank gauge (CampingWorld Item # 55643). I used the existing 8ga wire with auto-reset circuit breaker run to the Converter, and used 1ga run through the box using rubber grommets (Oreilly's...can't recall part#, but fit snug around their 1ga) for my Inverter using a 150amp in-line breaker. After much deliberation, I decided to go with a NaturePower 1000w MSW Inverter (CampingWorld Item # 67195). The reasons I chose this Inverter were: 1) It was cheap (even more so because I had a $25 one off one-item coupon) 2) It had GFCI, LCD, and Remote Switch 3) I could purchase (and return to, if necessary) from a physical store 4) My requirements were minimal - Microwave (5-10min./day max), Work Laptop, Cell phone, occasional power tool - it handles all of these without issue. Until I decide on which way I will wire it's power, I have simply attached a 8ft 10ga extension cord. I also purchased and mounted a generic Inverter switch (Napaonline.com Part Number: BK 7821734) which was surprisingly a bit of a PITA, but functions as it should. The microwave we are using is a GE 1kw (listed draw, output unknown but probably 700watt) that was my wife's from college which I didn't expect to work, but does and draws 750watts during usage according to the inverter's LCD. However, I did have to "modify" the feet posts using a ball-peen hammer so the cabinet door would clear the top of the microwave. In the left of that picture you can see collapsible storage bins my wife found at WalMart ($6/ea.) which fit perfectly behind our factory table (as there is no way in h___ a full-size human could sit back there comfortably). In the closet we took some advise from another in this forum (sorry i was never good at citing sources) and use an LED tap-light with auto shut-off. Also found some rubberized clothes hangers that don't rattle around when on the move. In the "Triple S" as I call it (because you could do all 3 at the same time), I replaced the vent with a new darkened one, the shower/faucet with an oxygenics kit, sanded/repainted/resealed the floor pan (used "Almond" Rustoleum appliance epoxy - a perfect match), and replaced the shower curtain. All works well, though the Oxygenics uses more water than I anticipated based on other's reviews. Installed Allure flooring (HomeDepot - Internet #202885489 Corsica Dark) which conveniently took 1 box +1 plank....But turned out nice and trimmed with painted pvc 1/4round and dark brown rubber transitions. In lieu of clearance lights, I used adhesive backed clearance reflectors (Oreilly's generic oblong). I went this route for several reasons: 1) My clearance light wiring was in disrepair, and I had neither the time or patience to replace/repair it 2) It was much cheaper ($1/ea, compared to $? to replace and rewire) 3) They seal flush, water tight (holes/screws filled with silicone), and generally look "cleaner" 4) I fail to see the point in these on RVs other than to be an incessant PITA to owners - I read extensively of Truckers removing there's to cut down on DOT issues....basically if they ("cleanly") aren't there, no issue - if they are and are non-functioning, ticket. I fell somewhere in between, so if/when I am stopped/ticketed I will remove and fiberglass to a "factory" look.....rant over. I removed the aluminum garbage that was riveted to the bumper (under which serious rust was forming), wire wheeled, rust-treated, and painted flat black. The trailer hitch was installed by the previous owner to pull a small john boat (no, there is no frame damage and the mounting appears structurally sound, although I would never attempt the same...especially with the old 5-lug axle it had), but I rust treated and black-glossed it and installed a cheap $60 cargo carrier to hold folding chairs, a dry-box, and perhaps a small generator - If I go that route. MISC UPDATES: 1) Installed additional Shower outlet in the J-drain to optionally bypass the black-water tank with a garden hose. 2) Re engineered the under-sink shelf so more storage real estate is available. 3) Treated the water-stained tweed headliner with Instagone (worked great! stains had to be 15+ years old, pretty much unnoticeable now) 4) Replaced misc. fan/drive belts with Gates. 5) 4" Memory Foam mattress topper and waterproof mattress pad..............I'm sure there's more... Getting closer and closer to a state of near-doneness (as it seems one can never be completely finished with these old toyhouses). I still plan to: *Fix Exhaust Manifold leak....ugh.... *Install a smarter/quieter water pump *100watt Solar system (still on the fence on this one) *New smarter Converter (it still has the original and glass fused board...this may be hired done at CampingWorld as it looks like a PITA to do the board....we'll see). *Etc., Etc., Etc.... Will post more as they happen, thanks again to everyone who contributes here; it has saved me countless hours of work and research. -Patrick

I need some help here, my Sunrader has a horizontal tank that appears to have an "PDQ" (i have no idea what this means) OPD. This is a conundrum to me, because as far as I've read only BBQ tanks (vertical) are suppose to have these. Please help me identify what type of tank this is and weather I need to replace it, the hose, the regulator, etc. I want this thing SAFE and able to be refilled. As is, there are no propane leaks that i've been able to detect and all gas appliances work. As always, thanks for all the feedback and assistance!