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Found 4 results

  1. In the past, I've noticed quite a bit of heat coming off the transmission tunnel and across the whole cab floor in general. So, last month, prior to heading to the Deep South on our biggest excursion of the year, I decided to pull up the original gray vinyl stuff in the cab and add some more heat/sound insulation. (I was surprised by how little was in that area from the factory... pretty bare bones setup under there!) I went with a single roll (36 sq.ft.) of this Siless 157 mil product and a roller, plus some foil tape for the seams. The Siless stuff is like a big, rolled-up sheet of weather-stripping and not the easiest thing to work with, although it does cut nicely with scissors. It basically cannot be repositioned once it touches the surface, due to some very strong adhesive, so I found it worked best to cut roughly 12" x 12" squares and piece them closely together, rolling every inch firmly into the underlying sheet metal, and taping the seams. I splurged and did double-thicknesses all over the tunnel, too. I also ripped out the last scrap of the original, filthy "Pine Mist" carpet that lined the back of the cab and replaced with new, gray low-pile stuff. Very happy with that update. We just returned from our trip and, while the sound dampening improvement is hard to distinguish, the insulation made a huge difference in terms of heat coming off the floor: it's just slightly warm to the touch now, where it used to be surprisingly hot. Wish I'd had an infrared gun to measure the difference, before and after, cause it's very significant. Insulation Installed - Before Taping Finishing Up Install Tip: If you've never had the seats out, you'd better hit those bolts first with plenty of PB Blaster and/or use a torch on them from underneath the truck.
  2. Hello, my wife and I got ourselves a 1991 Toyota Itasca. It has some water damage in the over-the-cab sleeping loft and in the bathroom (in the back). We started removing the affected areas but we are looking for any advice the forum might offer to make the job more successful. In that spirit, I'll outline our plan and maybe you can warn of us some pitfalls, offer critiques, or advise on materials we should use. In the over-the-cab loft, the existing material on the flat section and the walls appears to be some styrofoam sandwiched between some wood veneer attached with adhesive to the fiberglass skin (the skin being the outside of the motorhome). We are removing that and scraping the wood veneer off of the fiberglass with a sharpened wood chisel. We are still looking at what material we should use as replacement. I am surprised that the flat area of the loft is just veneer and foamboard, since it needs to be able to support the weight of one or two people. I've seen on some other posts the suggestion of using marine plywood, but my concern with that would be the lack of insulation. Also in the over-the-cab loft, on the curved front section where the horizontal window is, we plan on gutting and replacing the styrofoam insulation that is there. Is this necessary? Finally, there is the obvious necessity of finding and fixing the leak that has allowed the water to breach the sealed exterior so that it doesn't just recur in the future. I'm suspecting the window or the seam between the side and roof/front of the the motorhome meets. However, I guess it isn't really important to determine where the leak is - instead, we should just shore up both areas. I assume that this would require a decent amount of silicone caulking? Is it usually necessary to remove the window and reinstall it? To avoid making too long of a post, I'll leave it there for now. Any help is appreciated. I will attach a few pictures and will add more as requested. Thanks!
  3. A simple to do but very effective way to keep the cab interior a little cooler. Take off the cab door lining and cover the backside with aluminum duct tape. That will reflect the heat from the sun hitting the metal car body back out towards the exterior. A good place to buy this kind of tape in larger rolls that cost less per foot is at the big box home center stores. Look in the aisles where they sell metal ducting parts for HVAC. Don't buy it in the paint department as it cost more per foot for the very same material. You can see in this photo just how much visual reflection there is on the backside of my door panel that I covered with aluminum duct tape.
  4. I have a few questions about radiant barriers and foam insulation please. I'll be adhering the radiant barrier to the bare fiberglass walls and ceiling of a Toyota Sunrader motorhome followed by some kind of sheet foam insulation. Cost matters so I'm looking for the best bang for the buck. 1) Does anyone know what the best radiant barrier is? Enerflex is the cheapest but much thinner than the others. All are at Home Depot. - Enerflex 4' x 12' x 1/16" for $14: http://tinyurl.com/an2ntyf - Reflectix 4' x 25' x 5/16" for $42: http://tinyurl.com/d9u24mn - UltraTouch 4' x 24' 3/8" for $60: http://tinyurl.com/aj9meq3 2) If I go with the much thicker UltraTouch that is 3/8", does that mean I could use thinner sheet foam insulation? 3) What kind of sheet foam insulation do you recommend? And would you use that same stuff on the floors too? Thanks Steve
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