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Found 3 results

  1. Hello, my wife and I got ourselves a 1991 Toyota Itasca. It has some water damage in the over-the-cab sleeping loft and in the bathroom (in the back). We started removing the affected areas but we are looking for any advice the forum might offer to make the job more successful. In that spirit, I'll outline our plan and maybe you can warn of us some pitfalls, offer critiques, or advise on materials we should use. In the over-the-cab loft, the existing material on the flat section and the walls appears to be some styrofoam sandwiched between some wood veneer attached with adhesive t
  2. A simple to do but very effective way to keep the cab interior a little cooler. Take off the cab door lining and cover the backside with aluminum duct tape. That will reflect the heat from the sun hitting the metal car body back out towards the exterior. A good place to buy this kind of tape in larger rolls that cost less per foot is at the big box home center stores. Look in the aisles where they sell metal ducting parts for HVAC. Don't buy it in the paint department as it cost more per foot for the very same material. You can see in this photo just how much visual reflection there is on the
  3. I have a few questions about radiant barriers and foam insulation please. I'll be adhering the radiant barrier to the bare fiberglass walls and ceiling of a Toyota Sunrader motorhome followed by some kind of sheet foam insulation. Cost matters so I'm looking for the best bang for the buck. 1) Does anyone know what the best radiant barrier is? Enerflex is the cheapest but much thinner than the others. All are at Home Depot. - Enerflex 4' x 12' x 1/16" for $14: http://tinyurl.com/an2ntyf - Reflectix 4' x 25' x 5/16" for $42: http://tinyurl.com/d9u24mn - UltraTouch 4' x 24' 3/8" for $60: http://
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