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Anybody used a good vinyl plank in their rig—something durable that's worked well over time, in heat and cold? Want to avoid any separation between planks, warping, and curling! Appreciate any specific recommendations and/or links.

Does anybody know the thickness and composition of the flooring on an 89 Dolphin? Thanks

My wife and I have recently started renovating my grandfathers 1990 Sunrader V6. The front windows leaked (even after having them "professionally" resealed) so I decided to attempt you hand at fiberglassing them in. With only 1 successful posting with pictures that I could find I figured I should get a thread going. We also ripped up the old nasty carpet and tore off the counter top with the awkwardly sized double sinks. We plan on priming / sealing the floor and then laying down some of the locking vinyl hardwood looking flooring. After going back and forth we also decided to update all of the lights to LED lights. I am by no means a professional but I would be happy to talk about this project with others. My wife and I pulled an all-nighter last weekend filling holes, priming and painting the interior. With all the water stains I decided to reseal the windows using butyl tape. I've never used it before but after some research it looked like the best product for this application.

We are new to your community - just bought a 1994 Winnebego Warrior with 44k miles. I'm looking for advice on repairing de-laminated floor plywood sections. We will certainly find and correct any water leaks first - really looking for materials and process to correct the delaminations. Could I maybe replace the plywood with a dense polystyrene (etc.) extrusion? Anyone with experience along these lines? John O.

I bought my 1987 Toyota Travelmaster about two weeks ago. One of the first things that i noticed when i was looking at the camper was the floor flexed quite a bit when walking through the the walkway. The floor was covered with the original carpeting so I was not sure what to expect underneath. There were three metal mounts in the floor where the legs of tables fit into and when the tables were in place they would wobble quite a bit on account of the flexy, spongy feeling floor. I started the floor project a few days back by just taking a razor to the carpet and started cutting. All the carpeting came up quite easily and was only stapled around the edges. It did put off a plume of nasty old dirt and dust. I would recommend a mask and a good pair of gloves to anyone looking to start a similar project. I just kept the shop vac going and would vacuum the sections as I tore back the carpeting. The wood underneath was pretty much as I had expected. It was very rotted out, water damaged and visibly very weak when walking over it. It looked to be at its worst right in front of the bench on the main traffic area. There was no real indication at this point where the water damage was originating from, but I suspect it may be from just years of wet shoes or mistreatment. After all the carpeting was out I unscrewed the Table mounts to get a better look as to what was under the floor. I pulled up the first table floor mound and was expecting to see some sort of sub floor underneath, but to my surprise all i saw straight through to my driveway. The bottom of the table mount was flush with the floor under the camper. The floor is just made up of a thin layer of coated sheet metal, then foam and then very thin plywood. Im not sure if this will make the project harder or easier. I pulled up another one of the table mounts and it revealed a cross bar support stud. I figured that there would be quite a bit of those going through the floor, but i will not know until i pull up all the plywood. The Next step is to take out all the chairs remove the rest of the carpeting and start to take apart the bench to see how back the damage to the floor goes. The plan is to pick a spot under the bench where the damage stops and tear up all the plywood and insulation to that point. Im going to patch over the holes in the floor where the table mounts are because i don't need the tables there. More to come soon.

Over the past 3 months (since the axle swap) we've been prepping our little Sunrader for her maiden voyage....wanted to share our updates (mostly genaric) if only to provide ideas for others Sandblasted, repainted all wheels and hot water heater cover(hi-temp Rustoleum inside). All new Hankook RA08 (including the 5-lug spare) and a new gravity-fed water inlet (white circular - Camping World Item# 60332)...oh and front marker light assys. (Oreillyauto.com - Part # : 18-1153-50 & 18-1153-90 | Line: TYC) Our Sunrader had a Engine Bay-mounted size 24 house battery, so I rerouted it to the rear using 4ga battery cable and increased it to a size 29. Our original 20# Propane tank had been incorrectly modified with an OPD valve, so it was removed and replaced with an 11# (True Value item # 839316) vertical tank. I also added a 12ft hose extension so that the hose can be connected to an external 20# vertical BBQ style tank when stopped any extended length. Here you can see the coiled hose, remounted regulator, and in-line propane tank gauge (CampingWorld Item # 55643). I used the existing 8ga wire with auto-reset circuit breaker run to the Converter, and used 1ga run through the box using rubber grommets (Oreilly's...can't recall part#, but fit snug around their 1ga) for my Inverter using a 150amp in-line breaker. After much deliberation, I decided to go with a NaturePower 1000w MSW Inverter (CampingWorld Item # 67195). The reasons I chose this Inverter were: 1) It was cheap (even more so because I had a $25 one off one-item coupon) 2) It had GFCI, LCD, and Remote Switch 3) I could purchase (and return to, if necessary) from a physical store 4) My requirements were minimal - Microwave (5-10min./day max), Work Laptop, Cell phone, occasional power tool - it handles all of these without issue. Until I decide on which way I will wire it's power, I have simply attached a 8ft 10ga extension cord. I also purchased and mounted a generic Inverter switch (Napaonline.com Part Number: BK 7821734) which was surprisingly a bit of a PITA, but functions as it should. The microwave we are using is a GE 1kw (listed draw, output unknown but probably 700watt) that was my wife's from college which I didn't expect to work, but does and draws 750watts during usage according to the inverter's LCD. However, I did have to "modify" the feet posts using a ball-peen hammer so the cabinet door would clear the top of the microwave. In the left of that picture you can see collapsible storage bins my wife found at WalMart ($6/ea.) which fit perfectly behind our factory table (as there is no way in h___ a full-size human could sit back there comfortably). In the closet we took some advise from another in this forum (sorry i was never good at citing sources) and use an LED tap-light with auto shut-off. Also found some rubberized clothes hangers that don't rattle around when on the move. In the "Triple S" as I call it (because you could do all 3 at the same time), I replaced the vent with a new darkened one, the shower/faucet with an oxygenics kit, sanded/repainted/resealed the floor pan (used "Almond" Rustoleum appliance epoxy - a perfect match), and replaced the shower curtain. All works well, though the Oxygenics uses more water than I anticipated based on other's reviews. Installed Allure flooring (HomeDepot - Internet #202885489 Corsica Dark) which conveniently took 1 box +1 plank....But turned out nice and trimmed with painted pvc 1/4round and dark brown rubber transitions. In lieu of clearance lights, I used adhesive backed clearance reflectors (Oreilly's generic oblong). I went this route for several reasons: 1) My clearance light wiring was in disrepair, and I had neither the time or patience to replace/repair it 2) It was much cheaper ($1/ea, compared to $? to replace and rewire) 3) They seal flush, water tight (holes/screws filled with silicone), and generally look "cleaner" 4) I fail to see the point in these on RVs other than to be an incessant PITA to owners - I read extensively of Truckers removing there's to cut down on DOT issues....basically if they ("cleanly") aren't there, no issue - if they are and are non-functioning, ticket. I fell somewhere in between, so if/when I am stopped/ticketed I will remove and fiberglass to a "factory" look.....rant over. I removed the aluminum garbage that was riveted to the bumper (under which serious rust was forming), wire wheeled, rust-treated, and painted flat black. The trailer hitch was installed by the previous owner to pull a small john boat (no, there is no frame damage and the mounting appears structurally sound, although I would never attempt the same...especially with the old 5-lug axle it had), but I rust treated and black-glossed it and installed a cheap $60 cargo carrier to hold folding chairs, a dry-box, and perhaps a small generator - If I go that route. MISC UPDATES: 1) Installed additional Shower outlet in the J-drain to optionally bypass the black-water tank with a garden hose. 2) Re engineered the under-sink shelf so more storage real estate is available. 3) Treated the water-stained tweed headliner with Instagone (worked great! stains had to be 15+ years old, pretty much unnoticeable now) 4) Replaced misc. fan/drive belts with Gates. 5) 4" Memory Foam mattress topper and waterproof mattress pad..............I'm sure there's more... Getting closer and closer to a state of near-doneness (as it seems one can never be completely finished with these old toyhouses). I still plan to: *Fix Exhaust Manifold leak....ugh.... *Install a smarter/quieter water pump *100watt Solar system (still on the fence on this one) *New smarter Converter (it still has the original and glass fused board...this may be hired done at CampingWorld as it looks like a PITA to do the board....we'll see). *Etc., Etc., Etc.... Will post more as they happen, thanks again to everyone who contributes here; it has saved me countless hours of work and research. -Patrick