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After much testing, swapping out alternators, checking fuses, and digging into diagrams, etc, I've determined that, of the the three wires that connect to the alternator (not including the large B+ post wire), the RED wire is dead and has zero voltage with Key On Engine Off. The other two wires in that 3-wire alt connector, the white and the yellow, seem to be doing what they should be doing and show close to battery voltage, which is about 12.6v at the moment. (Sidenote: the truck runs and idles very well... until the battery runs way down, of course.) Anybody ran across this before and/or have a suggestion to troubleshoot the red wire? This wire is supposed to carry 12V from the ignition switch to the alternator, far as I can tell, but it looks like it's probably shorted/cut/chewed-through or something. I'm thinking I've got to trace the route through the entire harness, somehow, or just run a new wire from the fuse panel at driver's feet out to the alt. But, you can tell me if I'm wrong! 😀 I've got a question out on YotaTech about all this too, but I know people here are pretty quick to respond, usually. Thanks as always.

hello, I recently bought a 1984 toyota dolphin 22r carburated and the guy i bought it from had replaced the alternator.. there was a few funky things going on with how he set it up. it started up for me several times no problem when i bought it. on the way out of town driving it home it would start cutting out on me then all the dash lights, taillights and gauges went out... was still able to drive it without the electric working surprisingly, would cut out every ten miles or so then i would turn it off, pop start it, and it would go another ten miles give or take . when I got it home I saw that the reason all the lights and gauges went out was because the 60A gasoline fuse under the hood blew due to an extra unconnected wire that is hot coming off the alternator wiring harness. I know this because when it grounds out it blows my new 60A gasoline fuse. when i replaced the fuse all my lights come on and everything works as it should, other a no click no start. Where should this extra wire be going? tried connecting it to the alternator and the fuse blew, it can't really reach much farther than the alternator so i kinda assumed thats where it should go. what else should i check if the 60A fuse blew? would something else burn out in the process? new starter too.

My 1981 Mini Cruiser won't hold a charge. I think the alternator may not be big enough to push both the engine battery and the house battery. What kind of alternator are you guys running in your rigs to charge both batteries?

Hey Friends, My last topic was looking for an original owner's manual to hopefully answer this question myself. However, I was informed that owner's manuals were more or less expanded brochures, and not of much use. (By the way, I have a '78 Dolphin Micro Mini.) This question is sort of related to the truck, but it's mostly related to the coach...I'm wondering how the batteries work? Or specifically, how the power works. I have a regular car battery, and a deep cycle battery. At least that's how I understand it. The gentleman who sold me the camper said that the main battery is dead (it totally is), and that the car itself is running off of the deep cycle battery (which, will likely also need replaced). So...how does all this work? I imagine both batteries must be charged by the alternator, but like, which battery powers what, currently? And did these campers come with a generator, originally? I can't find one, so I'm guessing no. How does shore power factor into this? Those wires are janky, and I'll likely have to replace it, but like, on the campers little grid, where does everything fit in? A primer would be nice, if someone would like to take the time to educate a noob. Or, if you prefer to point me toward a resource where this information would be found. I've looked through here and found lots of awesome resources about troubleshooting, repair, and enhancement/addition...but nothing that really gives me a primer on how the system worked out of the factory. Thanks in advance!

Oops. I made a bad mistake - one I know better than to do. I assumed black would be negative and red would be positive. Someone before me wired a connection to the house battery w/ a black positive. I was messing around w/ my battery and inverter and managed to reconnect it to the neg. side of the battery. I know, I know... House lights didn't work so I started testing and found the problem. Fixed and all is well - at least on the house side. After I got it all working properly, I decided to test voltage at the inverter w/ the engine running. I started the engine but the charge light didn't go out. I have 12.2v across the starting battery posts w/ the engine running. I checked all the fuses and the fusible links in the black fuse box to the left of the engine (facing the engine) and everything checks out fine. I am wondering what a dead short on the house side of the isolator could have burned out on the engine side of the isolator that would keep the alternater from charging, It's an 87 w/ 22RE and AOD trans. Got any thoughts or suggestions? Other than "don't do stupid stuff like that again", I mean...

I've been searching, but I don't know. On the 86 Dolphin, both the charge and brake light came on when I started it. I heard a few clicks. Put a tester on the battery, less than 12 volt. Bad alternator, right? Well I still have the coach battery; no, nothing. Well, I'll plug it in, no, still no power in the back. Managed to get it home, barely. I can't get a cord to it where it is. So I'm thinking about getting a new front battery and running it to a shop. I don't have the time to work on it. I'm just puzzled about the brake idiot light being on and the lack of power in the coach. If you have any thoughts, thanks. Otherwise a successful first trip. We had fun. Still better than that tent in the car crap. HeeHee.

So, I need help deciding which upgrade to do before we head out on our trip....here's my thoughts: The Sunrader has the original Converter in it AND the original Alternator. Both are working fine, but I would like to upgrade one before leaving. I'm anticipating driving more than being stopped long-term anywhere (as we have about 8000mi. to cover in about 7-8weeks). Also, will be using a CrockPot (100w), very minimal Microwaving (6-10min/day), and charging my work Laptop/Cell phone while on the road. This has me leaning more toward the Alt. as the more appropriate spend. However the original 6300 Converter is old (very, glass fuses, etc.) and I would want this to function reliably when needed. Here's what I'm looking at: Converter/Board: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/45-amp-universal-replacement-kit/58357 OR Alternator Kit: http://www.lceperformance.com/High-Output-Alternator-Kit-120-Amp-22R-RE-RET-p/1080050.htm ....Any input/alternatives/etc. is appreciated, Thanks!