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So i take it that there might be a problem with my converter? Also in terms of rear view camera for backing it on up.... what do yall recommend? thanks again.

I haven't got the toy out this summer at all, what a bummer! One thing after another... the heatwave hit us in June, I did use the toy the for the ac, no central air. Made for a couple nights of comfortable sleep in the driveway. Now with the fire danger parks are closed or a fire ban is in effect, what's the use of going camping if you can't have a fire? Pretty soon the cold is going to hit and the weather will be hit or miss. Now I get it why most of my camping days are in the fall winter time frame. To top it off I have a dead cab battery, 2/14 date so it probably needs to be replaced anyway. Hope you all are are fairing better. Cheers Gary

I want to get rid of my roof top ac unit and I'm wondering if any of y'all know if I should just cap off the wires or try and remove them. After the hurricane hit the city, I was driving around and a low hanging wire garbed ahold of the ac and ripped the shroud apart. I have to check to see if it cracked the frame and the only way to do that is pull the aluminum roof back, so I gotta take it off anyway. any help would be appreciated

I'm bringing the 1986 Nissan V6 Sunrader that's at my brother's place in New York out to California in September. It has a very nice, functional air conditioner in the cabin. It's a Coleman of the Mach series, but I'm not sure which. Hopefully the pictures will help you identify it. (I believe it's original equipment.) Even tho it worked great last month when I spent a night in the RV, I've decided that I don't want the air conditioner when it's in California, bc I mostly plan to boondock, and I don't want the extra height, weight and wind resistance. Out west where it's dry when it's hot, swamp coolers are an energy efficient solution that can run off the house battery. I've even made my own, and bought a portable one that can be powered by USB. So I've got a proposal for y'all, since many of you have been very helpful to me: you can have the AC unit if you'll come to my brother's place, remove it from the RV and replace it with a roof vent (probably the one you've already got in your RV where the AC will go). First dibs to folks who've helped answer my questions here over the last year. Otherwise, first come first served. Cheers, Lenny

Hi, I recently got an 18' Sunrader from 1984 and I'm wondering if it would be possible to build in a rooftop AC that is powered by an internal generator. Does anyone know where the generator could be located on the inside? Are there any alternatives? I'm not sure I want to have a rack on the back bumper with an external generator chained to it. I understood that there is not enough space on the roof to power the AC with solar panels? I'm totally new to motorhomes and travelling in a RV. I had initially planned to drive from San Francisco to Chicago, going through the South Arizona, Texas, Louisiana, Tennessee in August. I know it will get insanely hot and humid and I'm wondering even if I would install an AC, would the generator shut off in that heat? And would the AC even be able to cool down the Sunrader? Thanks a lot for your advise upfront. Raul

Well, my AC clutch bearing seized, the bearing race chewed up the ac compressor housing. Mine has a 6" pulley. Ordered one from Rockauto , it has a 5.5" pulley, so it will be going back Does anyone have any good part numbers for the AC Compressor? . I am guessing the cab & chassis is different from the regular toyota pickup.

I spent today going over all the various appliances in my rig (1992 Itasca Spirit). I've only had this baby for a few days, and in between taking care of my grandkids while their parents are away, I managed to get the furnace, fridge and hot water all running. I then changed the oil in the built in Kohler gennie, started outfitting the rig with gear and decided where to install the 19 inch flat screen TV I bought 2nd hand. After I'd changed the oil in the gennie, I thought I'd let it run for a bit while I tested out the AC and microwave. Microwave works great. AC not so much. I have no clue where to even begin trying to troubleshoot it. Fuse? Is there one? Missing a step in starting it? Can't see any more buttons or switches. The manual wasn't very helpful. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Simple question: what would happen if I completely sealed the vent on the rear-face of the air-conditioner? I don't think I need so much air blowing on the bathroom since the AC is all the way to the rear in the kitchen. I'd like more air to flow to the living area and bed. If I put pressed cardboard and duct tape over the rear vent, would the forward vent push out more air, or would it end up going out the intake vent? Thanks for any help. Thomas

Hello! I recently purchased a 21' 1986 Toyota Crossman, which my partner and I dubbed "Little Buddy." Little Buddy has treated us well thus far but unlike the other RV I have owned (a Four Winds Hurricane) the coach power does not work unless plugged into shore power via the pigtail. A post made to this forum by Jake_Womack earlier this year described a similar issue, which other forum readers suggested was caused by a malfunctioning relay or switch. Could that be the culprit in my case as well? Do I need a new switching supply? The Power Inverter in Little Buddy is: Series: 6300 A Model: 6336 My knowledge with electrical systems is slight, so your input is most welcomed. Thanks in advance! And in case it impacts the responses to the above issue, we also plan to: - add a generator (Honda - it'll fit well in the vented external storage area behind the drivers seat) - swap out the current coach battery with an AGM (Optima) - add an inverter

When I got the 1990 Itasca 321RB, it had the old roof top AC. That winter it leaked, so I removed it and installed a powered roof vent with fan instead. Years gone by, I feel like having the AC again. Here are my concerns: the Coleman Mach 1 PS (power saver) 11k BTU fits the bill as my Honda eu2000i can run it reliably (total cost ~800). Issue is the roof sagged a little bit after bearing the old AC on top of it for over 20 years. I could raise the lips of the roof around the 14"x14" opening so water won't get in but water will be standing around the AC when it rains. Any idea how to mitigate this?

Hey all, We're preparing for our first time out in our new-to-us 1986 Sunrader and I am a little overwhelmed by all the info on the internet with regard to our electrical capabilities. Here's what we're working with: -2 batteries under the hood - one each for the cab and the coach -30 Amp cord for plugging in at campsites -One 12V DC plug in the dash and one in the coach -One AC wall outlet in the coach I purchased a 30 Amp extension cord and a 30A-120V adapter, as well as a little 75W inverter for the dash, which has one AC and two USB outlets. We will be doing a combination of camping at campsites, boondocking in national parks and forests and on BLM land, and boondocking in urban areas, usually in a friend's driveway or the street in front of the house. The longest we plan to stay in one spot is two nights. I know that the lights, fridge (3-way) and furnace work while boondocked, but I'm wondering what our other capacities may be, while boondocked, rolling down the road, and plugged in. Here are my most pressing questions: 1) Will the wall outlet in the coach work while rolling down the road? (I traveled with my sister and brother in law in their 38-footer and she was able to run a crock pot while we drove - seems like a great idea, but not sure if our rig is capable). 2) Will the wall outlet in the coach work while boondocked? If so, well enough to power a toaster or toaster oven (for some reason, toast feels very important and our oven doesn't have a broiler)? What about a small fan? And if it will power a fan, will it power it overnight? Is it ok to run a short extension cord within the coach from the wall outlet? 3) From what I can gather, we should only run the air conditioner in the coach when plugged in via the 30A at a campground. I assume since they sell (and we bought) the 30A-120V adapter that it is ok to plug-in to house power, but is it ok to do it via a heavy duty 120V extension cord? Can I run the air conditioner off that? Any other dos and don'ts when doing this? 4) From the reviews, I can gather that charging iPhones and iPods with the 75W dash inverter is ok, but there's no definite answer about a laptop. Any ideas? It would be for charging the laptop only, not actively using it. I'm going to give her a dry run in the driveway this weekend, sanitizing the water tanks, checking the oven to see how much the temp is off, seeing how good of a shower we can take, etc. I would really appreciate any feedback y'all might have so I don't go plugging things in willy nilly, blowing fuses, and causing unnecessary damage. Thanks so much for your time and I'm really excited to have such an amazing resource at our disposal. Thanks moderators and everyone who participates in the group. Eryn

When I bought my Escaper the roof air worked great, but the cab air did not work. The ac compressor turned on but made a bad sound and there was no cold air. I'm about to go on a travel for a while and definitely wanted my cab air working! I started out by ordering a new compressor for an 87 Toyota truck. When the compressor arrived it was immediately apparent that the compressor was the wrong style mounting and everything. Here is the stock A/C compressor in place before any work. Here is the first compressor I ordered, which was the wrong style since it was for a factory installed A/C system. This is when I figured out that the truck had a dealer installed A/C system. Notice the mounting style is completely different. I returned that compressor and was able to locate the compressor I needed on Ebay. This was the only place I was able to locate the exact style of mine and I got it brand new in an auction for $117! Old vs. new Here is the engine bay with the ac compressor removed, also the air intake is removed as well. For those interested, here are the sensors used for the cold start injector. They are located directly underneath the air intake. I removed both and cleaned them due to my truck having a cold start issue. It ended up being a missing screw in the throttle positioning sensor and the idle was off. All lines were removed. The evaporation coil was also removed from under the dash. I have a feeling this may be one of the reasons the ac system did not work! Here is the coil after a good cleaning. Also is the chemical I used to flush all of the lines to get rid of old oil residue. Putting it back into the box. Removing the expansion valve from the line. Once I saw the compressor lines on the new compressor, I noticed it was a different style mount. It was an oring type of connection when what it needed to be was a flare style connection. A day later I had the adapters I needed, obtained from a local A/C shop. New compressor in place. The easiest way to get the evaporation coil in place was to put it in, put the expansion valve in place, and then put the top of the case on. Then the thermostat was slid into place from the top. This was kind of a pain in the butt. Lines connected.

Hey all, I recently purchased a 1987 Toyota Escaper mini. The truck is awesome and in great shape but the cap air does not work! The compressor sounds like it has a bad bearing even when ac is not on, it still turns on when a/c is turned on but no cool air. So I ordered a new compressor for a 1987 Toyota pick up and to my surprise when it showed up, it is a completely different mounting style. After some more investigating it appears the truck may have had the a/c system put on it aftermarket possibly? The system on it uses a bracket with a belt tensioner as part of the bracket as you can see here. Also notice the way the bolts attach the compressor to the mount. The compressor sent to me that is the correct part number for an 87 toyota pick up looks like this...(Denso 471-0137 ) As you can see, completely different mounting style. So after this happened I looked at the compressor currently on the truck and saw these numbers...Blue sticker is DKS-15BH and red sticker reads 509618-5703. After googling the part number on the compressor (DKS-15BH) it is showing it is made for a Volvo?! This is what has lead me to think it is an aftermarket ac system? When I look at that compressor part number on google it looks like the correct mounting style but appears to be a little different if you look at the way the lines attach and location. Also notice the number on the blue sticker is the same, but the red sticker is different! If anyone could help me figure this out I would more than appreciate it!

Yesterday I finished the install of the Xantrex Freedom SW 2kw invert (yes 2kw is 2000 watts). http://www.xantrex.c...12v_newgen.aspx My 1.8kw Xantrex gave up the ghost so I stepped up to their newest model the Freedom SW. Talk about a MONSTER. It weighs 60 lbs. It is all digital including the 30 amp transfer switch which kicks over in microseconds if it detects a drop or brown out in the incoming AC current (either from shore power or a brown out from the generator). This one has a very sophisticated built in battery charger so I pulled my converter out completely since it would no longer be used. Of course..... Here is the requited eye candy for everyone The inverter next to the furnace (gives a good idea of the size of it) http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-1.jpg http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-6.jpg http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-7.jpg The unit has 2 cooling fans but I could not get it warm during testing even when running the microwave and TV continuously http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-2.jpg Because of the weight I did not want to mount it on the generator compartment so I built a shelf that is attached to the Surader's fiberglass shell for support. http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-4.jpg A few more pics (if you are not bored yert) Used a Moroso racing DC cutoff switch on the DC line http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-5.jpg This is the DC fuse for the I/O positive line http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-3.jpg I used Moroso racing DC firewall pass through to get the battery lines out of the enclosed battery compartment. This is a hole in the compartment with a sealed plug having battery post connections on each side so that I have a completely sealed battery compartment. The grey phone line is the battery monitor line from the charger/inverter. http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-8.jpg The remote control for the inverter will be in today then I can button it all up and move on to the next project Mike (AKA - turtle) 1991 V-6 auto 18' Sunrader, Downey Racing air intake, JET Performance ECU re-programing, Prothane poly suspension bushings, Firestone Ride Rite Air suspension, Downey Racing rear suspension, 4.56:1 Rear end gears, Bilstein shocks, Xantrex Freedom SW 2 kw inverter, Onan 2.8 kw genset,

The guy I bought the 1983 New Horizon from asserted this one is freshly rebuilt, and there's cause to believe he's telling the truth. It's not bolted down and all the wiring is disconnected. But after getting it home, lifting it enough to see behind it, [feels as though it weighs 100#] I found myself asking myself what the function of it is with regards to the overall MH. Is the generator just there to provide power for the AC unit? There's what appears to be 100# of refrigeration AC mounted on the sagging roof. The guy claims it's more-or-less new, and it appears to be. But it's a lot of weight up there, and I've lived a lot of years without AC the last decade-or-so. Thinking of pulling it off there, plugging the hole before doing a major re-sealing/coating job on the roof. If all that generator does is power the AC I'm wondering whether I mightn't live without it, as well. The only thing I can think of that might justify a generator of that size unless it's doing something else, would be operating power tools I might be carrying with me. Which I might consider important enough to justify it. Thoughts, observations, experiences invited. Thanks in advance. Jack