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Found 11 results

  1. Hello! Brand new to the forum. Brand new to RVing. I just bought a 1990 Toyota Dolphin yesterday. It’s a beautiful rig but the previous owner made a number of mods to suit their needs and they don’t exactly suit ours. Namely, they removed everything LP, though the main line/fixtures are still there but we now have a 3.2 cu ft mini fridge and no stove. Eventually we may convert it back, but we need to leave on a trip relatively soon so we’re going to attempt to run the fridge off the battery through an inverter and I have some questions. I’ve spent all day trying to figure this out how to make this setup work for us. I think, based on some research, that I’m going with a pure sign wave 1200w inverter. - The battery is on the passenger side under a bench but sealed inside a box. Wires come out of the box and attach to two silver things with small terminal posts (see picture - I know little about electricity other than what the internet has taught me in the last 12 hours, so I don’t know what those are called.) Can I wire the inverter to those things? If so, which of the four posts is positive and negative? If not, how do I connect the inverter since the battery is inside that box? - While driving, with the alternator give enough power to maintain the battery level enough to run the fridge? - There is just one 12v battery installed. Would you recommend adding a second battery? If so, I then have questions about where to install it and how to connect it to the original battery? Does the new battery need to be in a similar box? Could I somehow open up that box and make it bigger? Im sorry for so many questions. This forum has already been a helpful resource for me. I know someone on here named Zero had some posts about running a similar Igloo fridge on an inverter and being able to get a couple days out of a single battery charge, so, Zero, if you’re reading this, help me out
  2. Hello, Anybody know what this is? (photo) Inside house battery compartment of 1992 Itasca Spirit. I replaced an existing older inverter with a new pure sine 1000 watt inverter in order to run an oxygen concentrator (420 watts) while driving. It worked perfectly for about 22 minutes. Then the inverter faulted and the concentrator ceased to function. We headed home instead of to the beach. Wife's birthday, not good. There was no DC power in the coach so I plugged it it to shore and the lights came on. Left it plugged for the night, pulled shore power in the morning and the lights go out. Started the engine, lights on. Got to fumbling around in the battery compartment and found the black box (photo) with 2 reset buttons, pushed the one labeled "rear pnl/conv 25". Lights on. (the other is labeled "battery charger 30"). I assume I tripped a 25 amp circuit breaker. My question is, What is this unit? is it possible to replace or upgrade without replacing the converter/charger? thank you Bruce
  3. Hi everybody, The 18' Sunrader I just got came with a Duralast 1000-watt inverter that wasn't hooked up. (Nothing was hooked up bc the cabin/house was gutted.) I've read that it's important not to have both the converter and inverter hooked up at the same time bc such a circuit will drain the battery. So my question is: where is the converter and how do I disconnect it? As always, your help and insights are greatly appreciated!
  4. Hey all, just purchased 1990 Toyota v6 Motorhome, not sure on the RV manufacturer/model. Anyways it has 2, 100 watt solar panels feeding into 2 deep cycles then into an inverter. The batteries were reading 14v from my multi-meter and I'm thinking it was that high cause they were taking in a charge from the panels. The inverter is a Trace 2012SB and when I tap the power button twice I get nothing (i dug up the manual here http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/971-9901-03-01.pdf). This inverter is old AF (I think i saw an inspection note inside it saying 1991) and I think the company is long gone. Can't find any fuses on the sucker so no idea on that. Anyways what trouble shooting steps should I take here? Maybe I ought to just take this to an electronics shop and see if they can test it? Thoughts? Thanks.
  5. I just got a hundred watt solar panel, and am thinking of connecting it to a deep cycle battery--- an inverter, then into the electrical hook up, as to use all the existing wiring inside. Has anyone done this?
  6. I'm going to be living and traveling in my 18' Sunrader so I need a lot more space than the stock fridge holds. I'm thinking of buying an AC only "apartment" fridge/freezer and run it with an inverter in my motorhome. (I don't want a propane fridge and I don't want to spend a fortune on a DC fridge.) I'm going to have about 250 watts of solar with probably 3 house batteries. I have a couple questions please... 1) How much less efficient percentage wise is an AC only fridge running off an inverter compared to running a DC fridge? 2) The opening width of the side door on my Sunrader is only XX" wide (Can't find the measurement now!) so I'm wondering how the heck I'd get a larger fridge in there since most of the apartment fridge freezers are around 21" to 22" wide? Since I'm doing a major remodel of my Sunrader anyway I was thinking I could make it so the back window could be removed so I can get the fridge in and take it out if I have to. Has anyone replaced their little stock fridge with a tall narrow AC fridge/freezer? Or how about making the large back window be removable? Any ideas please? Thanks Steve
  7. Hi! I'm Andy and I just bought my 1990 Sea-Breeze. I paid $4400 for a 1990 with 73k miles and other than some water damage that needs to be repaired, I think I did OK. I'd like to know what you think too so I started a blog. Please visit and weigh in on this. I've never taken on a project of this size but the cost savings seem to be worth it. I hope so. I think this is the kind of project you hate to do - until it is all done and you can reap the rewards. Here is a link to my new blog page: 90seabreeze.wordpress.com I've already replaced all the tires, done the differential and transmission flush and fill, oil change and all new belt as well as registering the vehicle and getting my tag. I'm sooo ready to go camping but now I have a roof to repair.. What is anyone's opinion about the following: ROOFING REPAIR I see there are a couple EPDM liquid / self leveling products and after I remove and replace whatever is in poor shape I will want as maintenance free a roof as possible. Has anyone had any experiences they can share or recommendations as to products they would recommend? What about Liquid Roof? I saw this guy's roof repair video and he has given me some confidence to do the same. Thoughts? Where do I start rebuilding the affected walls and ceiling? Rebuild the sides of the cab-over first? Thoughts? HEAD GASKET There is a sticker on my fan blade shroud that says "timing belt replaced at 55k miles." Any way to tell if the head-gasket was replaced or if it needs to be? How can I determine this? POWER and AC and A/C IN TRANSIT There doesn't appear to be very many AC outlets around the cabin. Besides under the dinette, I don't know that I saw a second one. I guess most people get by with inverters while they drive if they are needed? Any recommendations as to which ones are good and where to install them in the cabin? Should I run a dedicated line from under the hood of the cab? I have a 400 watt one. Maybe I will install it up front. Can I install one in the front and one in the back? What do you use/do? What about cooling the cabin during a warm summer drive? I am sure the dash A/C does little for the people in the back... AC/DC TVs There is an abundance of 12V HDTVs now (albeit generic names) in the small - 24" form factors. Seems since the cabin is mostly DC that this would be handy. Anyone have any recommendations? LEAKY EXHAUST / MANIFOLD? I have what sounds like a little exhaust/manifold leak. Is this common? Are there certain areas that fail more than others and is this a costly repair? Thanks for looking! Andy
  8. Over the past 3 months (since the axle swap) we've been prepping our little Sunrader for her maiden voyage....wanted to share our updates (mostly genaric) if only to provide ideas for others Sandblasted, repainted all wheels and hot water heater cover(hi-temp Rustoleum inside). All new Hankook RA08 (including the 5-lug spare) and a new gravity-fed water inlet (white circular - Camping World Item# 60332)...oh and front marker light assys. (Oreillyauto.com - Part # : 18-1153-50 & 18-1153-90 | Line: TYC) Our Sunrader had a Engine Bay-mounted size 24 house battery, so I rerouted it to the rear using 4ga battery cable and increased it to a size 29. Our original 20# Propane tank had been incorrectly modified with an OPD valve, so it was removed and replaced with an 11# (True Value item # 839316) vertical tank. I also added a 12ft hose extension so that the hose can be connected to an external 20# vertical BBQ style tank when stopped any extended length. Here you can see the coiled hose, remounted regulator, and in-line propane tank gauge (CampingWorld Item # 55643). I used the existing 8ga wire with auto-reset circuit breaker run to the Converter, and used 1ga run through the box using rubber grommets (Oreilly's...can't recall part#, but fit snug around their 1ga) for my Inverter using a 150amp in-line breaker. After much deliberation, I decided to go with a NaturePower 1000w MSW Inverter (CampingWorld Item # 67195). The reasons I chose this Inverter were: 1) It was cheap (even more so because I had a $25 one off one-item coupon) 2) It had GFCI, LCD, and Remote Switch 3) I could purchase (and return to, if necessary) from a physical store 4) My requirements were minimal - Microwave (5-10min./day max), Work Laptop, Cell phone, occasional power tool - it handles all of these without issue. Until I decide on which way I will wire it's power, I have simply attached a 8ft 10ga extension cord. I also purchased and mounted a generic Inverter switch (Napaonline.com Part Number: BK 7821734) which was surprisingly a bit of a PITA, but functions as it should. The microwave we are using is a GE 1kw (listed draw, output unknown but probably 700watt) that was my wife's from college which I didn't expect to work, but does and draws 750watts during usage according to the inverter's LCD. However, I did have to "modify" the feet posts using a ball-peen hammer so the cabinet door would clear the top of the microwave. In the left of that picture you can see collapsible storage bins my wife found at WalMart ($6/ea.) which fit perfectly behind our factory table (as there is no way in h___ a full-size human could sit back there comfortably). In the closet we took some advise from another in this forum (sorry i was never good at citing sources) and use an LED tap-light with auto shut-off. Also found some rubberized clothes hangers that don't rattle around when on the move. In the "Triple S" as I call it (because you could do all 3 at the same time), I replaced the vent with a new darkened one, the shower/faucet with an oxygenics kit, sanded/repainted/resealed the floor pan (used "Almond" Rustoleum appliance epoxy - a perfect match), and replaced the shower curtain. All works well, though the Oxygenics uses more water than I anticipated based on other's reviews. Installed Allure flooring (HomeDepot - Internet #202885489 Corsica Dark) which conveniently took 1 box +1 plank....But turned out nice and trimmed with painted pvc 1/4round and dark brown rubber transitions. In lieu of clearance lights, I used adhesive backed clearance reflectors (Oreilly's generic oblong). I went this route for several reasons: 1) My clearance light wiring was in disrepair, and I had neither the time or patience to replace/repair it 2) It was much cheaper ($1/ea, compared to $? to replace and rewire) 3) They seal flush, water tight (holes/screws filled with silicone), and generally look "cleaner" 4) I fail to see the point in these on RVs other than to be an incessant PITA to owners - I read extensively of Truckers removing there's to cut down on DOT issues....basically if they ("cleanly") aren't there, no issue - if they are and are non-functioning, ticket. I fell somewhere in between, so if/when I am stopped/ticketed I will remove and fiberglass to a "factory" look.....rant over. I removed the aluminum garbage that was riveted to the bumper (under which serious rust was forming), wire wheeled, rust-treated, and painted flat black. The trailer hitch was installed by the previous owner to pull a small john boat (no, there is no frame damage and the mounting appears structurally sound, although I would never attempt the same...especially with the old 5-lug axle it had), but I rust treated and black-glossed it and installed a cheap $60 cargo carrier to hold folding chairs, a dry-box, and perhaps a small generator - If I go that route. MISC UPDATES: 1) Installed additional Shower outlet in the J-drain to optionally bypass the black-water tank with a garden hose. 2) Re engineered the under-sink shelf so more storage real estate is available. 3) Treated the water-stained tweed headliner with Instagone (worked great! stains had to be 15+ years old, pretty much unnoticeable now) 4) Replaced misc. fan/drive belts with Gates. 5) 4" Memory Foam mattress topper and waterproof mattress pad..............I'm sure there's more... Getting closer and closer to a state of near-doneness (as it seems one can never be completely finished with these old toyhouses). I still plan to: *Fix Exhaust Manifold leak....ugh.... *Install a smarter/quieter water pump *100watt Solar system (still on the fence on this one) *New smarter Converter (it still has the original and glass fused board...this may be hired done at CampingWorld as it looks like a PITA to do the board....we'll see). *Etc., Etc., Etc.... Will post more as they happen, thanks again to everyone who contributes here; it has saved me countless hours of work and research. -Patrick
  9. Hi, I recently bought a 1990 toyota Itasca with stock electric setup in the coach. I am trying to power a 210watt 10amp laptop using a group 27 deep cycle battery. How do i do this ? I bought a 100-500watt black and decker inverter but it will not give enough power from the cigarette lighter connection. Are 12volt cigarette port connections not powerful enough to run this ? what is the most cost effective route to power my laptop ? thanks!! so glad these forums exist! inverter http://www.homedepot...r&storeId=10051 the product description states Also includes a 100-watt DC plug and a 500-watt battery clip for use in automobiles as a 100-watt output or hooked directly to a battery for a full 500-watt output this sounds like I have to take the coach battery out to use the full 500watts?
  10. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021189 400 watt power inverter $14.99 shipped
  11. Yesterday I finished the install of the Xantrex Freedom SW 2kw invert (yes 2kw is 2000 watts). http://www.xantrex.c...12v_newgen.aspx My 1.8kw Xantrex gave up the ghost so I stepped up to their newest model the Freedom SW. Talk about a MONSTER. It weighs 60 lbs. It is all digital including the 30 amp transfer switch which kicks over in microseconds if it detects a drop or brown out in the incoming AC current (either from shore power or a brown out from the generator). This one has a very sophisticated built in battery charger so I pulled my converter out completely since it would no longer be used. Of course..... Here is the requited eye candy for everyone The inverter next to the furnace (gives a good idea of the size of it) http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-1.jpg http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-6.jpg http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-7.jpg The unit has 2 cooling fans but I could not get it warm during testing even when running the microwave and TV continuously http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-2.jpg Because of the weight I did not want to mount it on the generator compartment so I built a shelf that is attached to the Surader's fiberglass shell for support. http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-4.jpg A few more pics (if you are not bored yert) Used a Moroso racing DC cutoff switch on the DC line http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-5.jpg This is the DC fuse for the I/O positive line http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-3.jpg I used Moroso racing DC firewall pass through to get the battery lines out of the enclosed battery compartment. This is a hole in the compartment with a sealed plug having battery post connections on each side so that I have a completely sealed battery compartment. The grey phone line is the battery monitor line from the charger/inverter. http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-8.jpg The remote control for the inverter will be in today then I can button it all up and move on to the next project Mike (AKA - turtle) 1991 V-6 auto 18' Sunrader, Downey Racing air intake, JET Performance ECU re-programing, Prothane poly suspension bushings, Firestone Ride Rite Air suspension, Downey Racing rear suspension, 4.56:1 Rear end gears, Bilstein shocks, Xantrex Freedom SW 2 kw inverter, Onan 2.8 kw genset,
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