DanDanLongDan

I have a new in box complete A/C kit. It's R134A $1300 shipped to your door. Bought it for an 1985 XtraCab that I sold before I could install it. I'll see about getting some pics posted.

Took the caps to work today and refinished them to closer match the powdercoated wheels. Wetsanded the plastic caps. I didn't want to take a chance being too aggressive with the 26 year old plastic. Wiped them down and degreased them. Used an epoxy sealer and then a waterbased paint and then clear coated the caps. Found an extra one I had lying around so I decided to paint that one as well.

The front window was not installed. I've heard the Toyota Winnebago Toye model did not come with a front window. I'm glad it didn't. Other models I've had would leak from the window.

Got the call today to come pick them up. $350 for the 7 wheels. Took them home and mounted and balanced the 6 tires. I'll look for a spare in the meantime. The powdercoating colour is a little different than the front and rear caps. I'll scan the colour with our camera at work and see about a paint formula that will match.

Was able to grab a couple 4'x8' FRP panels from Home Depot. They were $61 a sheet. So far I grabbed two plus adhesive, trowel and some trim. Total so far was $192. Cut the first one and troweled on the adhesive. It was a dance to get it into the coach and not smear any of the adhesive while getting it in place. Pushed it down as well as I could. Braced it a little with some sticks. I'll let it cure overnight and see the results. It looks like I may need a 3rd of 4th sheet depending on how I cut the remaining walls.

Finished sanding and filling a small impression. Masked them up and wiped them down. One coat of Sikkens ColorBuild 250 Sealer and 2 coats of Utech Single Stage

Not really overthinking. Just doing what makes sense. I already had the TR602HP's in stock with me. No need to order any stems. Sure I might have wanted OE Toyota ones for the fact of OE but since they aren't available locally in any reasonable fashion or time frame. Going through the trouble of dismounting the tires to powdercoat it makes sense to put new valve stems in. Having them in stock helps as well. The tires that were on the RV are dated 1013 and they have great tread still. I was on the fence to buy a new set of 7 but I inspected them and they will be just fine for a few more years. Just gives me incentive to put on some miles and wear them out. I'm hoping the wheels are done sooner than later. Not 100% comfortable having it on jackstands for too long. Pics to follow once I get the call that they are ready. Since I'm the one mounting/balancing the tires I won't have to book an appointment to get them done. Just walk out to the garage. I'll make sure I have the right type of gauge and chuck and keep them in the glovebox.

So true! Like me and my repair to the bathroom that was turned into a closet by the previous owner. If I knew the work involved I may have just passed on this one.......nawwww I was buying it anyway.

Loaded up the wheels. Had to cut off a couple of the OEM valve stems as they just would not unbolt. Called our Toyota dealership and asked about the Toyota Motorhome Valve Stem number 90942-05026. Didn't show up as a valid number. No worries. Just grabbed a 7/16" drill bit and made the hole larger to fit a high pressure valve stem. Part #TR602HP Snap-In Tubeless Valve Stem Rated up to 100PSI. Headed to the sandblasting yard and for $172 and 1.08 hours of my time I had all the rims sandblasted. I did 11 in total. 4 were for another vehicle. Loaded all of them again and drove over to Calgary Powdercoating for the powdercoating. Should be ready in a day or two.

I'll see about sourcing those locally. The car in the background is a 1999 Viper ACR

Decided that the spray can runs that were left in the existing wheels needed attention. I've tried refinishing the wheels by sanding them before on my previous Itasca. Just went ahead and got those powdercoated. This second set will get the same treatment. Loosen the lugs first with a 23MM socket and breaker bar before jacking it up. Jacked up the RV and placed it on jackstands. Removed the wheels and marked the position of the tires so I can rotate them when I remount and balance them. Date codes are 1013 and the tread is still quite good. I will reuse the tires unless someone local needs a good set of 6. Removed the valve stems. I will bore out the hole and go with a high pressure valve stem. I will take pictures and measurements tomorrow. Much cheaper than the OE Toyota ones that I would have to wait 2 weeks to get them here from California. I'm pretty sure they won't have them in stock. I'm glad I have all the covers and center caps. I even have an extra front hub cover. Off to the sandblaster tomorrow and then dropping them off at Calgary Powdercoating for the powdercoating.

Cleaned and sanded the toilet seat lid and bathroom sink getting them ready for paint. My faucet set is also that yellow colour and I was going to paint it as well. A new chrome set from Rona, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.. is about 30-40 so I will just pony up and but a new one. I noticed that my toilet flange was cracked and possibly a source of a leak. I have to mount the waste tank securely and then I can move on to the new flange. Should the flange and the black tank inlet be solid or should they be floating or flex coupled? It seems the new tank diameter and the old flange diameter were the same and there was a rubber coupler with 2 hose clamps to join the two. Of course I have to decide on what flooring I want to use. It's always one thing and then another. Choosing the floor type and colour is another thing to ponder over. Pictures of them sanded to follow.

Today's work. Removed sink, toilet, upper cabinet, sink cabinet. Pulled up two layers of linoleum flooring. Pulled down what parts of the wall that would come up. Undid the shower taps to find out they had been cut off and just hanging there. Cleaned toilet and sink and will prepare them for painting along with both sink and shower tap bases. Noticed that the toilet was leaking where it goes into the new black water tank that was previously installed. The tank was installed with pool noodles as a spacer between the coach and tank. I flush mounted it temporarily with the muffler straps/banding that was also use. I will remove that and fab a real solid mount that won't vibrate and cut into the bottom of the tank over time. After moving the tank upwards the drain angle now hits the stabilizer jack. I will need to move the jacks. I don't think they are even anyway. One step forward. 2 steps back.

Spent a little bit of time with a grinding disc and a Crud Thug. Cleaned up nice once I removed the white house paint underneath the black top coat. Sprayed on some POR15 and looks great. Ready to make the storage box. Just have to decide if I go with box with lid that runs up to where the angle changes. That might be too high for some to reach in without a stool. The other choice would be a boxed in top but with doors opening rearward.

Measurements are 80cm X 68cm or 31 1/2" X 26 1/2" I've cleaned up the old caulking, washed it down and then sanded it ready for refinishing. I used 220 on a orbital sander and a red Scotchbrite. I will be removing the sink and refinishing that as well.